It has perfect afrs there is no need to extend the vents. Thats the cool thing about the c&s over other set up i run smaller jets in that carb then when i was n/a.
Well for my very first step into what makes a blow thru card work, this was a good start. I have never had a blow thru carb but you blew away all the bad things I had been told. I hope there is more good ($$$$) info to come. Great job.
Good info. I lubricate the gaskets before assembly. Silicone dielectric compound or even vaseline will allow the easy removal at the track. Also running your engine at 12:1 is a lot easier than trying to run 14.7:1 at cruise on the street with 12:1 at full throttle.
I have 3 Jon Bitler @ IRD Racing blow thru carbs and I love them . I don't run methanol I run 108 octane 12% oxygenated unleaded makes big power and the BRPV Jon uses are best I have used. Your metering plate setup is key .
I want to try that fuel just need to devote a whole month to tuning it and making sure everything is good and then going and making some runs on the truck
Interesting video on blow though, I'm in the process of doing a twin turbo setup and was trying to decide if i wanted to go blow though or injection......Thank for that video👍.
Subscribed to see what all you do with the blow thru setup. I just started on my s10 build on my channel. It'll be a mild nitrous setup for now but I plan on going to a blow thru turbo setup eventually. Thanks for the info!
12:33- 12:45 is my favorite part I was looking into this because I have access to efi tuning software but I really don't feel like learning efi tuning especially when you can just tune with a screw driver
People been running blow thru's since back in the 50's! Paxton super charged been round since the late 50's! They just never went to the power levels like now!! I got the itch for a blow thru turbo on my 94F150!! Windsor with heads cam and intake, got everything but the turbos! 9-10lbs of boost!
@@markmccarty9793 I wish I had gone with a plain jane 351w in my mustang but I ended up with an LS , what carb are you gonna run? Will you post a build series on your channel?
@@Dannymclovin I got a vacuum secondary Holley 750 that I just changed the spring till I got it right. Put a 50 cc pump and a 31 shooter in it! It's all bandages, but it's better than a double pumper for knocking round on the street. Sold that awhile back. Gonna build another one for my 94 flairside. Got a set of cheap aluminum heads here, only reason I'm using them is I think it'll help with detonation. I'm gonna run a hydraulic roller cam just cause I have 95 roller block. Won't have to put zinc additives. If you use a roller cam it's no problem! Thinking bout a comp hr274, (think that the #) but might have to trim the valve reliefs. A " run what you brung" motor! You need a set of heads! Gt40's probably ur best bet money wise! I lucked out on a new set of aluminum heads, but the professionally ported 65 289 heads I got would work just good! Detonation on pump gas is an issue in the summer here! Grab a truck 351w, make sure it's roller block. Set of gt40 heads and a cam. In a fox body that's enough to make you grin without taking a second mortgage out on your house. Long tube headers. Good luck!
I burned up my engine twice with a blow through. Supposedly perfect out of the box. Installed a wideband and found out how terrible it was. Jetted it different and it made a difference but still had lean spots some places then super rich in some places. Didn't trust it anymore so went efi.
Ii hear that alot I have never ran any other carb but the C&S ans i must say it is great. I have put over 4,000 miles on that truck with that carburetor on the same engine I did blow up my engine at the end of last year but it was due to overboost with the complete wrong connecting rods for the job the connecting rods were rated at about 400 horsepower and I was making around 1,000
The tuning has alot to do with the power valve jetting too. I had to tune on mine verry little. I did change all four main Jets and all four jets for my power valves I do not believe in a such a thing as good out of the box
I do not have the part # the ones i use only go to c&s carbs they build a piece into the metering blocks for them. I think csu carbs have the ones that work for all carbs. But if you have a c&s carb the power valves are on their website
I KNOW YOU CAN GO FAST FOR CHEEP....ITS CALLED A BBC L88 W BLOW THROUGH AND MAKE SURE YOU REALLY RETAIN THE VALVE SPRING SSHIM EM TOO THEN YOU CAN RUN 8000RPM W N20
Have a blow thru setup myself with a blower. For sure reason i cannot dial in the AFR at idle. Always wants to run rich. Good afr with booat and getting into throttle but for me its idle and going from idle to main jets at a set of lights it likes to be rich as well. Any tips or tricks ?
Hard to follow your video. What is your actual point about misconceptions? Can you add the time stamp to review that? Very interesting that you used the cheaper proform meter blocks and base plate. I like them for low buck billet carb parts but wish they didn't choose purple as trademark. LOL
That was not a ProForm carburetor that was a quick fuel brawler carburetor when it started out and the misconceptions are explained when I first started going that direction everybody told me that blow through does not work that is a misconception blow through does work they told me I would not have good air fuel ratios and that I would blow up 10 engines before I ever figured out how to set it up
@@trucksofspeed I have been building drag race and stock cars for over 25 years and have my own YT channel. Quick fuel owns proform and brawler series. Your meter blocks and baseplate are QFT proform parts. Quick fuel uses the pinkish purple proform parts on it's lower priced line called Brawler, which is an excellent street strip carb. I build carbs for drag racing as well as engines, transmissions, and rear differential set ups. What I think other guys might have meant is that with out an AFR gauge and keen eyes and ears you likely would blow up a few motors. Ask me how I know....and good luck with your build! 👍
The new engine runs great. The only engine I have ever blown up was not due to tuning at all it blew up because I put 30 lb of boost to a set of Scat Pro Stock rods the rods are hanging from my ceiling now four of them are s-shaped and one is snapped in half I pay very close attention to my tuning I pull the plug about five times a week even if the air fuel gauge says it is good I still check
SRC has the blow through down all day great job Billy the Dad Hotchkiss sorry about spelling...I've learned some about blow through..and don't think you're video isn't helpful ur wrong but bring some more of these videos....I need information not relaxation
Is this a different type of boost reference PV than the type that just builds up pressure in the bowls from the vent tube extensions? This one has me a little confused, so does the PV see pressure on both sides? Pressure from the passage to the bonnet stud on one side vs pressure in the bowls from the vent tubes?
Or does the hole in the stud create a venturi effect and pull vacuum? It just dont make sense to me to have pressure through the stud and pressure in the bowls from the vent tubes. Set up that way i would think pressure would equalize on both sides of the PV and it would never open, unless the smaller passage in the stud would help keep the PV closed at very low boost( keeping pressure equal on both sides) then as boost increases the stud passage cant equal the flow of the vent tubes allowing more pressure on the bowl side of the PV thus opening at higher boost levels.
The hole in his stud goes to both power valves and its done this way because pressure in the hat is greater than below the throttle blades untill it hits wide open throttle so its more sensitive and driveable.
@@adamballinger1358 i knew that, my point is the passages from the stud comes out on the oppisite side of the power valve than the bowls and vent tubes. That stud passage is on the carb main body side of the power valve, vent tubes are on the bowl side. Both come out in the hat and yes above the butterflies. Both of those orfices see the same amount of pressure, only difference would be the volume they flow. So in theory if they flowed the same volume they would supply the same amount of pressure and the power valve would never open, but they dont flow the same and all i could see that doing is slowing down the opening of the PV. Unless the hole in the stud creates a venturi effect and creates a vacuum, or it see's positive pressure with the butterflies closed and venturi effect at WOT. Either way id like to hear from somebody that designed this or know positively how this works not just their theory.
Steven greetings. To shed light to your confusion let’s go step by step. You are right the stud orifice and the bowls receive the same pressure. Nonetheless, you have to take into account that the pressure in the bowls is bleeding out through the jets to feed the engine. So, in reality the bowls hold less pressure. On the other hand the diaphragm’s chamber it’s hermetic meaning it doesn’t loose pressure like the bowls. I wish this helps with your confusion.
Thanks I’m in the process of building a 400”sbf can’t decide on turbo or belt driven pro charger thank you for the reassurance that a blow through will work just fine
I've seen Billy the Kid runs blow through...then again BIG BILL TUNES IT ON THE S+10.... I wanted to run one of those set ups but something for street and strip enough for 800-1000hp
@@trucksofspeed I’ve built a 331 stroked bronco. 1980 4 speed, but my block may not survive boost, its running 35s, strange 9” rear with 3.73, LSD front/back, manual trans, certainly no race car but the heads are decent cam is a mild 230@50, full roller, forged Mahle flat tops 10:1 compression, but I’m going to need to save money to build the next engine for it, planning on blow through like yours. Appreciate their dept look at the carb.
How do you control the timing?????? Ive been trying to figure this all out getting a blow through carb is the easy part. 355 carbed LT1 forged pistons/rods/gapped rings . Aeromotive regulator with boost reference . Its supposed to be lowish boost on pump gas like 87-91 octane nothing crazy like 550 at the crank daily driver. Its been NA driving for like 2 years because Ive been trying to figure out how to make this happen.
@@trucksofspeed so you put the supplied distributor in, set the given dial to retard whatever amount per psi of boost like retard 8 degrees per 8 psi, and set the dial there the entire time you drive it and leave there and drive it?
