I did this this past weekend and it is amazing how cool I run when towing in town. I didn't think it was possible. I wish I would have done this way back when I i had a Ford Tranny installed. On 96 degree days I run 140 to 160 degrees. I had to flog it to get to 160. I can stay close to 140 if I behave.
Hey Cody wanted to say thank you for all your videos brother. My 01 F350 is the best vehicle I've ever owned. Towed a 9000 lb toy hauler around the country for almost 10 years. On my 3rd transmission and looking to upgrade to the mishimoto cooler. My neighbor has the same truck and did his over a year ago. He pulls a smaller trailer but we're in Colorado so we have some mountains to climb here. He can't say enough about how much better it tows now. Temps barely move. Keep up the good work my friend
Thats interesting bro! Another guy said he has 37s also and he pulls a 30’ trailer with 4.56 and he loves that ratio. Maybe I’ll be happy no matter what. I could go in the middle with 4.30 gears. Haha
I have an 02 F350 srw on 40’s. I pull a 34’ travel trailer. I have 4:88 gearing and it does the job just fine. Going down the freeway hauling I’m cruising at 63/65 mph at 2250 rpm. My trans temp stays at 130. Climbing hills coming back from the river like on the 15 freeway It stays in third and I see 160 max never higher then that. I do need to upgrade my turbo and that should give me the little extra power I need. I have the stock turbo so it climbs the hills fine but the steep ones I’m climbing at 45/50 mph in third gear with the trailer behind me. The trailer weighs 9500 fully loaded. I have a 5” straight pipe, stage 2 ATS transmission, 37 row mishimoto trans cooler, thermal check valve delete, T500 hpop, CFM intake manifold, AFE intake, CTS 2 insight, ISSPRO Ev2 triple pillar gauges ( boost, trans, pyro), stock injectors, stock turbo, Ultimate Truck Performance in Oxnard tuned and built majority of my truck. Couldn’t be happier and I get 400 miles to a tank. Speedo was recalibrated using auto engenuity so I’m only off by 1mph
That’s awesome bro and good to know! Thank you! 4.88 are good for you and 4.56 or 4.30 are good for others so I feel like I’ll be happy with whatever I go with. I’m thinking 4.56. I’d love to see a pic of your truck bro. Send me a pic on Instagram if you have one 🤘🏻 @80hdprojects
@@jameslocklear2920 mirco particles ... Definitely not necessary especially on a new transmission. If you noticed he had overheating issues immediately on a new transmission. That's that aftermarket filter. Is a complete scam product. Any Micro particles of metal is absorbed by the bearings in the transmission. That's the secondary purpose of the bearings. The stock transmission filter gathers all clutch material. If your Trans filter is dirty in any measurable way your transmission is already ruined. And guess what is the only cause of death for a transmission is. Excess heat that will delaminate all the clutch material . Guess what cause Excess heat. Restrictions to flow . Guess what Causes that your shit high Micron filter . That can't catch any mirco particles because it's instantly clogged with clutch materials . Then it's not filtering a dam thing because the Trans pressure kicks in the emergency bypass on the filter That's the width of a straw and that completely restricts flow. Now you know what happens do you think it's really smart to restrict your transmissions cooling abilities the hole time it's in operation over mirco particles. When the only way to remove debri from the system is to flush with new transmission fluid . I hope you don't ruin your transmission with a scam product. Do research rather than trust the salesmanship of a product website. Just change your transmission fluid . It's not rocket science
That's not true though in my experience. Ford was installing them on Remanufactured Tranny's. I got 70k miles on mine before I even changed that filter. And I did install another after I drained my fluid. This cooler has me at 140 to 160 degrees where I used to run at 195 to 215 degrees. Texas heat and towing #10k in town.
I have 4.56 on my 7.3 excursion with 37's and it feels great towing and keeping highway speed while pulling a trailer. we have a 30' 9k when loaded setup. I'd recommend going 4.56 at 40" too, where are you located in CA? I'm out here and can recommend the shop i went to for the regear.
@@NoHalfAss for real. You’d be surprised going up that hill with tuning and the engine at low rpms how fast the egts can climb. Then go over the hill with OD off and some rpms how much lower the egts are.
The truck looks "Perfect!!!"!! Great Mod for your new transmission, I got one too and it never goes Over 140. My truck is stock tires. Your are over the hill with the new transmission and cooler. Funny how Diesel just walls under your truck, lol.👍😉💪
Great channel. Do you have the stock radiator on your 7.3? Was curious what kind of mileage people are getting out of their stock radiator & water pump.
Stock cooling system on these trucks is more than enough. Water pumps Do fail but not super often. Keep the coolant clean and make sure the sca levels are good. Or switch to the peak final charge extended life coolant.
Sorry for the late response, I never saw your comment for some reason! But I honestly don’t know if I still have the stock radiator since I bought the truck with 120k miles
Use a ratio calculator online. Figure out what speed and rpm you want to run and pick your gear. Totally different rpm range but I have a 5.4l gas engine with 38s and 4.88 gears. Wish I would of went with 5.13s. I pull my camper which weighs about 9,000lbs. Length of camper doesn't much matter more so the weight. Either way you'll notice a huge difference once your change gears.
4.88 on 40s would make it drive like stock. So you would spin 2200rpm at 65 in OD. Unless you daily on the freeway with no trailer i would run that. When you hook up to a trailer you'll be thankful you went deep.
Hey Ik this is off topic for this video but I was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions for me. I’m looking at getting a 7.3 pretty soon and I’ve been watching all of your videos and my dad states that just buying diesel will drain my pockets alone. What’s the best mods to get the best mpg? Thanks!!
@@DetectorB they are 20 plus year old trucks. They are pretty reliable trucks but being as old as they are they will need maintenance or to be caught up on maintenance which can be expensive. The truck holds like 15 qts of oil so it’s a little more money for everything maintenance wise. I basically use my tax returns every year for the big upkeep items like brakes, tires, etc. let alone if you live in expensive CA your going to be paying close to 400 a year just to keep it registered.
@@jakep9086 thank you! I’m either gonna go with a 7.3 or a duramax. I’m more leaning towards the 7.3 but there just so hard to find down here. There all at least 15k for a 400k mile truck.
@@DetectorB yea everything is overpriced right now for some reason. Duramax are nice as well I bought the 7.3 because the duramax were way too much lol. If you get a older duramax like before 2005 it will be lb7 which is a good motor but had some injector issues. My advice would be go on forums for both trucks and read as much as you can about what to look for when buying one used and maintaining them. And of course which ever will make you happy.
HELP! I have a 2000 F350 XLT 7.3L crew cab - does anyone know the part number for the bolt that is located at the bottom of the rear fender just in front of the wheel. I bolts through the underside of the panel and a support brace. I’m installing bushwhacker fender flares and this bolt has to be removed then reinstalled to hold the back flare. I had to cut mine out it was rusted so bad, now need a replacement. This shows the exact bolt in question: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AHEYxg6b8dQ.html
