Mitsubishi HVAC At My House - Full System Tour 

Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ru-vid.comUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!

As a HVAC technician, I don't recommend mini split from repairing aspects. Many of control board and connector are proprietary parts. Which it increases repairing time and costs. In ur case, it is okay since u have central AC to help if ur mini split got problem. (FYI, what I know as a technician in Houston that most of HVAC supplies to support central AC system. Think about mini split as Tesla and central ac as Toyota, u might not able access proper part for Tesla, but u can go any store to get Toyota parts.)

This woman is amazing. Thanks again for all the info.

This is my profession but on the commercial scale. This nice lady knows her stuff. Good video, and very accurate HVAC information. No errors 👍

The showcasing of the mid static unit is what sold me on installing a multi zone mid static at my home. We have 540 sqft, and are going to be adding another 575 sqft. I chose a Pioneer brand because it’s diy friendly, and I can install it myself as well as the fact that I can install the air handler for the existing structure now and install the air handler for the addition in a few months to a year when we make it to that phase in the addition. I know next to nothing about HVAC, but I taught myself just enough to be dangerous and install my own unit. Thanks for doing videos like this Matt, I’m always learning something.

People, Engineers are at the hart of best practices. Matt’s home proves that we can’t “wing it” any more so please don’t ignore knowledge input in building systems. The costs have been going down and customers are more educated.

Glad to see USA slowly moving into the 21st century in the residential HVAC deployments :). In continental Europe and Asia Mitsubishi and Daikin are deploying even more advanced equipment with multiple internet connected units and sensors, and even hybrid geothermal pump based multi-split systems. Matt Risinger is doing a good work out there. He's not only lowering your costs, he's also lowering emissions and your carbon impact, no matter if you care about it, or not.

Brilliant channel. I'm from the UK where these units have been pretty standard for some time. What amazes me when I go to the USA is how powerful the air con is. Everything is full pelt. I go to Disney and the shops all have the doors open and the sidewalk is cold because of the cold air spill. Really loving this channel I am obsessed with air con and am always up in my loft as my home is air conditioned with the same units your using in your attic space.

Episodes like this are honestly more valuable than the architectural engineering courses I took in college.

My 20 y/o DFW house has 6k sq ft under HVAC coverage. Finally finished 2 yr project replacing 5 complete HVAC systems zones and 2 tankless hot h2o systems, $75k new roof and $30k in JW replacement windows.This year is backyard refresh time with pool and pool house renovations, privacy fence replacement and resoodding dogs side of yard.

My goodness, so many systems for a residential setup. Just the electrical service alone would require an entire subpanel with breakers for the numerous compressors, hvac units, dehum and fresh air systems. It'd be nice to see some cost $ and projected years to recoup vs conventional 2-zone single compressor setup. Few people can go to town like this with a sponsored setup.

Kimberly knows it and explain it clearly. I'm taking notes along the video, although just for general knowledge. Great detailed episode Matt.

Would love to hear about the ductwork tradeoffs and how you came to the decision. I love the vibration isolation detail but would’ve liked that unistrut to be parallel to the ground, you can tell those springs could catch on the sides over time.

Matt, I have a good Mitsubishi ductless system. I had to replace a 30 year old system, my roof at the same time. My electricity usage went from 500-600 a month here in California down to about 150-250 a month during the peak summer last year. one of the nice parts is the system has a dehumidifier built in

Having some humidity issues in my South Texas home, and boy, have I learned some things from this video. Thanks for everything you do @Matt Risinger

I installed a 3 ton Mitsubishi hyper heat system in my house- love it. I was going to use a ceiling cassette however the installer talked me out of it. The drain lines are a high maintenance item if you're not going purely gravity. The cassette units rely on a pump for the condensate, and you often end up with either leakage and/or mold in the lines. He said he'd install it but every time he does it he has to come back for those reasons. Overall this is an amazing system and extremely efficient. Super quiet and I'm extremely happy with it over the last couple of years.

Here in north Georgia it would be really nice to have a whole house dehumidifier that just ran automatically as needed. Might be 75 out but 90% humidity and it feels sticky without the a/c.

Yeah HVAC is fun and all, but hold up... job site coffee machine?

Use smart tiles that regulate moisture passively as decoration on some walls ... like that no issue with moisture. They absorb moisture from the air when it's too humid, and release moisture back into the air when it's too dry, passively without you needing to do anything else.

Most homes have terrible ductwork that is installed by people who don't care. It's slapped together by the lowest priced contractor. High end, high performance HVAC systems can easily cost $30,000+. I love Mitsubishi Ductless systems and this is a great setup.

With a vertical loops in you're lineset can create a oil trap. If you don't want to cut the lineset shorter make the loop horizontal so the oil won't be trapped.

You live in Austin TX - on avg, it’ll be 100 degrees daily, from July to Sept.

Check out rough in boxes for your ductless heads for new construction and titan airex boots on all systems, a little cleaner install. We use Ruud Inverter systems on all our high end custom homes with Ultra Aire dehumidifiers and Fantech whole house hepa filter systems. I also install ervs controlled with voltage sensing relays wired into exhaust fans and stand alone makeup air systems for kitchen hoods to keep a positive pressure on the house. Most people are surprised how much better air quality they can have in their home with a little extra time and planning. Educated builders are key to this, I have a select few custom builders I work for in central texas that are educated and don’t mess around. Good luck out there, stay safe and done sell yourself short.

thank you to all participants, Current, Past and FUTURE Videos Its always Great to View Various Industry Experts in that Particular Business Sector as a Speaker = FOR Sharing the knowledge most helpful

17:22 Matt... I love how you are talking about system reliability and possible failure and what not. As you tug on the line sets. Just saying. 😁

in a forced-air system we have one fan that pushes the conditioned air around the home. the air is circulated, pushed and pulled all around the home with just one piece of hardware. Now we want to install a fan and air handler in each room. All installed at the same time, so expect to have to replace all the units at the same time. But now you have the cost of replacing 8 units, not just one. And you will need to do that work in the homeowner's living area and not the equipment room. It's like installing a small water heater under each sink?

Mitsubishi is the best. That system is what my company installs every day. The one flaw you have is the type of AHU you used. Those pefyp AHU ( pancake style) are complete unserviceable. Can’t get to the coil, can’t get to the fan motor. It’s actually easier and cheaper to just replace the entire AHU. I now refuse to install that AHU and only install the cased AHU which is the PVFY style in the Mitsubishi line. Other than that great job by you mechanical contractor.

Kimberly should’ve mentioned that by ACCA manual J standards you’re not allowed to size your main AC system for specific events, hence the extra unit with sidewall grilles. Also not allowed is tying the garage system when it has ducts to the living space, not just because “it’s a big no-no”. I have clients and even worse, HVAC contractors that want to do this on a regular basis. This being said, I don’t see why you’d need a separate condenser for the garage unit if it’s a different head.

I highly recommend the Saeco Xelsis. Plumbed with a fill hose and a suction vac to empty the drip tray. I did it, it is amazing.

wow. Kimberly is impressive! she made this clear and easy to understand. I wished you or she explained a little bit better how it works when you have more than one indoor unit hooked up the one compressor. Also, one advantage you both didn't mention a mini split has is, that you dont have to run ducts thru the upstairs rooms to cool the lower floors, specially now that the builders start building multi floor houses.

Thanks for sharing … Can you please have a video on the importance and how the drain pipes should be connected, and how the primary and secondary drain works.

Matt, I live in mexico, it gets really hot here in summer. The standard way to do ac is to put a minisplit unit in your bedroom, and in your living room if you have the money. Living rooms usually have fans on the ceiling. What's your opinion on that?

Makes my 70's rancher with high effieciency natural gas down draft look like a Ford model A

Mitsubishi and Daikin both have really good VRV/VRF units.

Matt. On the hyper heats..they come with a base pan heater on the outdoor units... I live in Connecticut I unplugged mine on all 3 of my units.. if you have them on your system unplug them... I never had a problem and I’m way up north...they kick on at 40 degrees or in defrost mode which you may only see a couple times a year..my units I installed myself, and designed based on load calculations (I used to work for Johnson Controls) Electrician by trade.... I got 5 zones and 3 outdoor units. Also mine are mounted 2 ft off the ground..also make sure you add a surge protector at each outdoor unit at the disconnect. I’m not sure you need any of this information but I learn something on every of your videos.. THANKS!

The few hvac installs that I don’t pick apart bad practices. From one picky hvac guy, that is a beautiful install.

Great job!!! Only thing i would change is the armour flex on the line sets. K flex Titan type insulation holds up with UV much better.Especially when penetrating thru the exterior. Eventually the insulation will get hard,crack and lose its insulation factor.There goes your tight seal penetration. K flex doesn't rip when installing. Its even hard to cut with a utility knife.

I'm building this spring and I found this video extremely helpful. Many thanks!! Greetings from Newfoundland Canada

I was waiting to see the heat recovery system. Also, not much was mentioned in the fresh air supply system. How is the fresh air supply distributed on the ground floor? How would the bathroom exhaust fan be controlled? How about the kitchen extractor hood? Perhaps to be seen in the next episode!

11:30 No mention of thermal mass in the house to regulate a more constant temperature.

@mattrisinger Can you share a diagram that shows the VRF systems and the Zenhder system together?

I like that you hard piped all of this so important in a system like that

One of my favorite videos yet.

Matt some day I would like to see a budget house built with your knowledge. I bet you could pull of an amazing build.

My architecture office has had a CitiMulti system since 2007, along with spray foam insulation throughout. It’s an expensive system and honestly the maintenance required on it has been a little ridiculous. We’ve also worked with a college campus who has used Mitsubishi in all their buildings for nearly 20 years now.

When you described VRF I heard simply the explanation of what variable speed drive (aka inverter drive) can do for any system including one outdoor unit matched to one head and having it operate at variable power levels. I thought VRF is the system of refrigerant junction boxes that would allow different heads connected to the same compressor to be providing simultaneous heating to one zone and cooling to another. e.g. The refrigerant could be evaporating in one head, returning to the compressor and then condensing in another head as well as in the outdoor coil.

Matt, for the upstairs, was it cheaper to go with the ducted system instead of individual ductless cassettes in each room on a multizone compressor? If so, please explain the compelling details.

Hello from the great state of Michigan

.6, I hope the return is large enough especially with the pressure drop in that filter. Remember you need to get the air before you can supply it. Also, let's look at the supply side, I see lots of turns on the round duct, do some of them total .6 ?

It’s not about controlling ventilation because it sure is far cheaper to just have seepage. But a heat/energy exchanger allows you to recuperate losses and save.

You should sell. (or just give your fans) copies of your plans, including all the material you use - that way we can build out own Risinger! Can you speak to the span or distance of line-sets on mini-split systems; my understanding is that there's a cap.

You kill it every time... still waiting on you to build me a home.....

You said all you need is your refrigerant lines and some wiring for that split unit; aren't you forgetting about the condensate drain line?

Great video. (Funny aside: if you set the "Quality" of this video to 480p or lower, it looks exactly like a mid-90's CD-ROM computer game video cutscene.)

Another benefit of having a multi unite system is in a power outage you can run one system (usually the most central) off of a generator without needing to heat or cool your entire home. saving on fuel and the coast of a larger generator.

You make me want to build a new house so that I can do things like this right. Matt, 1% of the days above 100 would be 3.65 days. We have more 100 degrees days here in Plano. Pretty sure you do there in Austin.

Love those Mitsubishi systems. Big fan of mini splits, introduced to me when I worked in Taiwan. Awesome content!

The penalty you get from the fresh air ventilation on the load calculation could be way worse. Imagine if he didn’t have an ERV on the fresh air intake. That would be constant blowing 100 degree air. I wish they had described that in better detail instead of making the “penalty” sound worse than it is. The heat gain from the fresh air intake is a known number because it is mechanically controlled. If they performed a load calc on a leaky house, they have to make an assumption about how much air is leaking in. Once the house is built and the blower door test is done, the penalty from air leaks could be way worse than the previous assumption was during the design phase. But at that point you’d have to redesign the hvac system or just tolerate an uncomfortable house.

this HVAC system will pay for itself in no less than 2500 years

A real Risinger Passivhaus in Austin should never need more than the waste heat from the refrigerator compressor in your kitchen.

I have lived in Japan for 13 years with those types of system. From my experience mini split systems suck. My Japanese wife loves American HVAC systems lol.

Matt, why insulate the ducts in the attic if they're inside the conditioned building envelope?

I thought he installed a zehnder recuperator system? Is this a separate system from the zehnder?

What about condensation from the ductless system in the kitchen? How are you handling that?

.6 SP is not much but it's made for proper duct systems which I would say most homes don't have and they should because with any equipment bad SP will kill efficiency. High SP restrict CFM airflow, it's easy to get low SP, or fix, but it's amazing how most HVAC installs don't even measure it, shameful.

I have a 12k mini split downstairs, one 18k upstairs. Super tiny electric bills here in the Pacific Northwest for the last 5 years. And my units are Pioneer and Gree eBay cheapos.

Thanks for your new episode!

I am not a builder (and generally not a RU-vid commenter :). But I cool lots of products from peaches to ice cream. Freon, ammonia, glycol... commercial systems. I very much enjoy your videos. My concern is this: When you make these zones without "mechanically" breaking these zones with heavy insulation or even minimal barriers like a door... shouldn't we implement a control system that would communicate with adjacent zones about target temperatures, turning on air handlers, delays, cycling etc. Its complicated enough to control multiple 1:1 systems touching the same air with multiple thermostats, but the idea of controlling a $25k HVAC with a mix of 2:1 and 1:1 systems that are all* inside the same R50 super air tight envelope with 4 Nest thermostats sounds inappropriate. Those smart thermostats have delays and pre-cools and all kinds of little "efficiency" features that conflict with the modern controls in inverter condensing units. For the past 10 years I've been fixing my commercial refrigeration systems and controls is half the battle. If you put independent "smart" controls on this high-end zoned system, I see units fighting one another. I see one of those systems becoming a "lead" unit unintended. I hope the next video shows how important it is not just to insulate or select a high efficiency system, but just as important, how you control that system. Your best results would be with an engineered control system that the manufacturer is going to stand behind. 90% of the issues I had with my commercial systems were not with unit sizing or insulation, it was with the installer deviating from the designed controls. This may be my first RU-vid comment. If you go this far, hope you enjoyed the book :)

This whole rebuild series has been a blast, Matt. Super informative. Question for you, as a new home owner, is there a legitimate product (hardware, or otherwise) that can disperse aroma/scent through the HVAC system? (Like you’d find in a nice resort.)

Talking up ductless while standing in front of duct work 😂😂. That’s a beautiful $100,000 system though

What is your service amperage to this house?

Curious what your blower door results will be? We just got ours done at .83 ACH at -50 which explained allot. While building I Installed our master Mitsubishi 6000 BTU unit with its standalone condenser which cooled the entire 1486 Sq ft home in central Florida summer to 72 degrees then ramped down to maintain. Granted it was a small ICF house with no sound proofing or interior insulation installed and we did install the HVAC ourselves but after the math any added cost between the two different systems is payed for after 1-2 years. I’m gonna imagine if more of the good versions of VRF technology are being purchased it will drive the cost down. Granted we also installed two ERVs which added cost but were now controlling the air in. Our electric bill Dec 2020 was 50 dollars and heat of the summer was 120 dollars but we were also cooling the 38 ft Camper which rarely turned off. We’re looking forward to seeing what our true bill for just the house will be this summer.

Matt, Don't you have an ERV? Does the thermal load due to ventilation account for heat/cooling/humidity recovery?

Hey Matt. Can you please let Kimberly know that the hvac installers on their website have absolutely no interest in the Mitsubishi system. I called four from their website and all of them pushed me towards other options.

Bad thing about the mini split systems is the lack of availability of parts in ten years. These are through away systems. Just like the condensing boilers. Best to use traditional high efficiency Hvac units. If you need to zone, use either electronic single dampeners or manual registers

23:23 you mentioned adding links on previous videos in which you got into the weeds on manual J's, etc. Any chance you can add them?

You should look into adding an Air Sniper to your Air system . It's a UV light system used a lot in indoor grows, but will kill anything and if you got the cash why not. Considering it looks like a forever home.

How Mitsubishi HVAC overlaps with the Zehnder's ventilation system? What is the ducting and supply/return locations - HVAC vs vent?

2800 square foot house with 5 tstats, 5 evaporators and 3 condensers with vrf controls. Dude there is gonna be a service technician that is gonna really hate that house in the next 5-10years and I feel for him. You might save some money on install and power with this stuff but maintenance will be a nightmare.

What is the capacity of the De-humidifier? Is the Mitsubishi fan coil not sized large enough to handle the latent load and sensible load of the homes second floor? I thought inverter driven fan coils can ramp down the blower rpm for better de-humidification when needed.

I have to ask.. im a Dutch HVAC engineer, but i don't have any feeling with BTU's and tonage. (I'm familiar with m3/h and kW) Is it possible if you'd add metric units in either the video, the subtitels or description? It would mean a ton!

Awesome build spec, agreed to using mini splits and cassettes downstairs. Def saves from cutting holes.

Please share details about the materials used to suspend the equipment from the rafters

Matt and kimberley, thank you to your explanation 👍

I'm about to start designing the HVAC system in my 150 year old 4,000sqft farmhouse. I wonder if I could get some reps to come out. It would be a great showcase project.

Did you do a blower door test to determine the air changes per hour as an input to mechanical design?

Hi Matt, at the end of the video... how are you going to seal the freon lines? Will you seal to both, to the black tubing and to the copper pipe? Just wondering if you could make a video about that also. Happy New Year to you and your family!

Mitsubishi and Trane together? An odd match but one that seems to be made in Heaven! Or Tokyo at least lol Good to have options since I'm sure that for some builds a "normal" Trane install would fit better.

Great video.. one question.. I didn't hear any discussion of humidifiers? Don't you need one of these to humidify the air in the winter? In keeping with this apparent omission, I noticed the heating load chart was missing Latent Loss (which would be heat required to add humidity in the winter). If I'm reading correctly, the Sensible Heat and Latent Heat were the Cooling Loads; and then Sensible Loss and Latent Loss should produce the Net Heating Loads.

Looking at that attic I was wondering if you'll be talking about how to insulate up there. Will it be a "conditioned" space itself with foam on the roof deck or other method of insulating?

Does the Man-J take into consideration factors like heat and humidity generated by cooking activity and heat from appliances? Wouldn't you want more fresh air exchange in the kitchen? Great stuff!

Just installed my Mitsubishi great unit thanks to you sir. Question is why do you insulate the supply ducts if there inside conditioned space?

The last time I looked at Mitsubishi splits the efficiency of INDIVIDUAL condensers was MUCH HIGHER... into the 35 SEER range. The multiple units that run more than one air handler topped out at around 18 SEER. Wouldn't it be cost effective for INDIVIDUAL condensers for each handler?

Can you explain a bit more about the filter and clean air system setup? It would be good to know for other families with asthma or allergy problems.

Matt - Don't you need a safety /back up water pan under the attic unit, or is it a different kind of coil inside so you don't have to worry about water leaks? Maybe its just not there yet?

Trusted your videos for years... all until you put cream in your coffee... ;)

Thanks for the in depth review. 3 years ago I wanted the unit you have in the attic, with similar loading (360 sq ft: a bedroom and 2 baths, zone 5) but was told, by my Mitsubishi diamond dealer, that it would not have enough static pressure (I have fewer runs than you have). Could you include all of the inputs to your manual J? Things like hot/ cold temperature for the design load. Sq ft of walls, windows, etc. This was a great video. I really appreciate the level of detail.

Matt, I am installing a Toshiba VRF system in my new 2850 sft apartment, guess what the cooling load is…about 19 Tons!!! Because here we don’t use any insulation :(

4 tons? I wish! I have 8 tons on the same sq footage in Scottsdale, AZ wow

So why didn't you go "ductless" also in the upstairs areas?