Also to check hot by the manufacturer they say to go onto flat surface change through all the gears, then leave it in nutral while engines running. Also the manufacturers recommended default transmission fluid for the car is Diamond ATF SP3.
i have an '02 the final check would be with the engine warmed up on a leveled surface, go through the gears, put it in neutral (park brake on) with the engine on and check the dipstick, the fluid should be in the hot mark. It's what the service manual says...
Don’t forget to start the car after your done, and run it through each gear for a few seconds then check fluid level. Have it running in neutral THEN check the fluid level.. Ps: I can confirm that draining from that plug will be about 5 quarts. Also these transmissions need Diamond ATF SP III. They’re not that expensive from the dealer.. Change every 30K.. [2006 Lancer here]
My transmission fluid dipstick comes out about 6 inches and then will not come out any further, doesn't matter how hard you twist, pull etc it will not come out. can someone help me out here i'm at a loss.
Hey Kong question again in 2003 Mitsubishi lancer have a transmission filter or do i need to change the gasket and open the pan everytime you change the transmission? Thanks
I have not change the A/T filter on my Mitsubishi Lancer yet. I have been looking over my shop manual and it seem like the A/T filter is located in inside the transmission/transaxle internally. You will need to do a transaxle overhaul just to be able to replace it. Oh yea, there is not A/T fluid pan or at least not on the Mitsubishi Lancer 2003 ES.
Jacking it up on driver's side will not allow all the fluid to drain, the tilt should be from passenger side to allow all the old fluid to come out, this doesn't change every single drop of old fluid.
5:54 i have 2004 mitsubishi lancer ES model i just change my transmission fluid and my dipstick its said hot and cold. I filled up 4 quarts only coz of my dipstick reach the cold line.... Just wondering if urs has those cold and hot line in your dipstick?
Filling the fluid to the cold line is correct. Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "Cold" mark on the dipstick. If the level is lower than this, pour in more A/T fluid. Drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperatures rises to the normal temperature[70 -80°C (158-176°F)], and then check the A/T fluid level again. The A/T fluid level must be at the "Hot" mark. If the A/T fluid is under the specified level, pour in more A/T fluid. If the A/T fluid is over the specified level, drain the excessive A/T fluid from the drain plug to adjust A/T fluid level to the specified level.
Thanks for asking the question. I went ahead and add the fluid instruction under the video description, which will help other people when they watch this same video.
I used "Castrol TRANSMAX IMPORT Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid" in this auto transmission fluid change video. It meets the spec requirements which is "Diamond AFT SP III". I had driven my Lancer for a while now and not gotten any transmission issue yet.
Is this going to be the same for 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer? I need to do the Automatoc fluid change today. Is the 24mm socket the same for 2006 Mitsubishi lancer too?
I just check the factory shop manual for the 2006 version. The direction to both transaxle fIuid change look the same to me. I do not actually have the Mitsubishi Lancer 2006 vehicle so i can not double check for you.
@@donkeykongchang Oh ok thank you. Yea I bought the 24mm socket and tried to do the automatic fluid change and it does work for 2006 mitsubishi lancer. It was so easy to do it. I put castrol cvt automatic transmission fluid. Thanks. 😀
@@cjjjjrak No I only had the car for like 6 months before I sold it. For the 6 months of owning it, it never had any problem with the transmission. The car was a money pit. It kept breaking down so I had to sell the car. Lol. I bought a 2005 toyota camry and I am happy with this car. It doesn't have any problems.
@@cjjjjrak And also I put the wrong fluid for the 2006 mitusbishi lancer. I was not supposed to use the cvt fluid, it uses regular fluid. I didn't know because when I looked it up on online it said it uses cvt but it doesn't. But it didn't give me any problem. So if you have a 2006 Mitsubishi lancer don't use cvt fluid and only use regular fluid.
I think I requested this. If so, thanks, K.C.! I noticed your intake duct was broken, too. Did you accidentally lean on yours? EDIT: Since you have the manual, could I get some torque specs for the following parts please? - Strut to spindle bolts - Outer tie rod nut - Inner tie rod - Axle nut - Caliper housing and bracket bolt
Yes this is the video you ask for, sorry it took a while. As for the intake duct, it was broken when i bought the vehicle. I been meaning to get a replacement but it is not high on my list of repair. And as for the specs, what parts of the alignment system are you replacing. It look like you replacing the whole tie rod but you don't really need to take off the axle nut for that repair. Let me know and i will look up the spec for you.
@@donkeykongchang I just did a front bearing and hub replacement last weekend, but I couldn't pin down the exact specs for the ES model. While doing my bearing, I noticed that the outer rod and ball joint needed replacing, so I'm changing all the tie rods, and the front, lower arms next.
I had not replace my front wheel bearing and hub because I do not have the special for the repair yet. I'm assuming you gotten the special tools and was able to successfully install the hub and wheel bearing onto the knockle. And Here is the Requested Torque Spec in same order you ask for: - FRONT STRUT TO HUB AND KNUCKLE MOUNTING BOLT AND NUT: 123 ± 7 ft-lb (167 ± 9 N·m) - AXLE/DRIVESHAFT NUT: 181 ± 21 ft-lb (245 ± 29 N·m) - Check out my link for OUTER TIE ROD END replacement: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RQQ9oHWU5C4.html - INNER TIE ROD: 65 ± 7 ft-lb (88 ± 10 N·m) - Check out my link for Caliper housing and bracket bolt torque spec: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_K5av-MW2PQ.html - Check out my link for Front Lower Arm replacement: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MUO74V5pXqc.html
@@donkeykongchang I did. I got the Astro FWD bearing press kit from Amazon. I got rid of the bearing roar, but now I'm hearing a chirping noise from the same side. Anyway, thanks for the torque specs. Are they from the official service manual?
I had used a software call Ondemand Mitchell but it stop working when i updated my window 8 to window 10. It is the same software we were using when i was learning to repair vehicle in college. I do not try to make any car repair if i do not have the right tools and manual so I did a good research and found a PDF for Mitsubishi Lancer 2003 FSM (Factory Service Manual). www.evolutionm.net/forums/lancer-troubleshooting/443432-lancer-factory-service-manuals-available-here.html . Check it out and download it. I would said the only hard part to a shop manual is reading the understanding mechanic term and finding the correct page for the repair. Let me know if this is helpful for you.
@@donkeykongchang hi! It's the sunroof, but I don't know how to open it to check why it doesn't work. Do you have another means to contact you?...thanks
@@ceesarduque5248 My Mitsubishi Lancer 2003 ES does not come equip with a sunroof so i can only help so much. A portion of the digital shop manual which I use, for my repair, does talk the about Sunroof Assembly. My email is donkeykongchang@hotmail.com . We can exchange email and i'll send you the PDF file.
The shop manual said to drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperature rises to the normal temperature. Part the vehicle on level surface and measure the fluid. Level should be at "Hot" mark.
