Facebook Page: / mattsmotorz1 In this video, I show how to remove the transmission on this 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. I am removing it because I am going to rebuild it as well as I need to replace the rear main seal.
Dude, You desreve an AWARD for the best Video editing of ANY automotive how-to video EVER MADE!High points: You did not put us thru watching as u remove each and every bolt - concise and to the point I LOVED IT it gives me ALL i will need to replace my chevy aveo tranny
Thank you for such a comprehensive video! My 2000 Mirage 1.8L trans just went @ 255k, the engine still has life in it, so thanks to this video I'll feel confident tackling a trans replacement for the 1st time. If you are ever in the NJ shore area, I owe you a beer...or a case. :)
+MattsMotorz I just towed my car back today and got axles, struts and tie rods off (~about an hour before it dark.) All other work will have to wait until next weekend. I'm removing the trans 1st to check for other damage before I order the $395 Ebay special, just making sure everything comes out ok before I spend the money on a trans. I just need a year more from this 2nd car and my ~$600 total will be more than well spent. I'll def update as I go. Thanks again!
+MattsMotorz It came out in about 3 more hours (about 1 the other day, so ~4 total,) I was pleased to say the least. The access panel is far different on the Mirage and not in a good way, the bulk of the time was wrestling that cover off w/o cutting the exhaust. The exhaust bolts are so rusted I would have had to use way to more than wrenches. Any tips on the reinstall? The only other question I have is do I need to replace the seal on the torque converter? It wasn't leaking when I took the old one out. I should try to remove as much of the black trans fluid it spewed and put fresh in before re-assembly, right?
Not too bad! Sometimes it is better to just cut the exhaust. I remember the re-install going pretty smoothly. The hardest thing for any trans re-install is getting it mated with the engine. As soon as you get two bolts started, you're golden. Just make sure you don't force em! They should all thread smoothly in by hand first. You mean the seal on the transmission? Or the bushing in the torque converter? If the old transmission was spewing black fluid, it would be best to get a new torque converter, as well as flushing out the cooler and lines.
thanks so much dude with this information I will be able to complete my conversion as I have a automatic but I'm converting it to a manual because I want to mod it but what's the point since it's automatic so I thank you so much it will happen soon after I buy the brake pedal,clutch pedal,clutch assembly,clutch master cylinder,and the transmission I will keep you updated
+Adrian Garcia Good luck!! You will probably also need to replace the main computer. There are all kinds of sensors and engine control programs that rely on input from the transmission. It will probably still work. But I would wager the check engine light will be on.
Nice job. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Thank your kid too, not sure mine would have the patience to hang out with me filming for that long!!!
next time on for the axle removal twist it a 1/4inch until it is easy 2 remove u have to have the clip on the axle in the right spot makes it easier good vid
The intake mod was horrible, its takes in the hot air from the radiator fans vs the stock intake gets fresh air. Mightycarmods tested that on a Dyno. Good video.
Cant believe he used a ratchet strap to hold the battery in!, When upgrading the battery in the lancers (2003-2006) a larger battery holder is needed when going from the 360cca to 564cca, the strap you can get from a ford (take a trip through a wrecking yard, you'll find them), then use longer holders to clamp in the new locations under the battery holder.
A huge thank you for this video, it helped me a lot. One thing though, I don't know why you disconnected the torque converter in 9:43 but I didnt do it and it all worked well anyway. Thanks again!
+Pizdzirynka1 Thanks for watching! If you don't disconnect these bolts, it is more work as you need to pull the transmission away from the engine horizontally first. This will cause the torque converter to pull out from the transmission. It is much easier if you disconnect these bolts as the transmission can just drop down vertically directly from it's position. Plus it doesn't make a mess!
What do you mean by "different." As in another one of the same transmissions for that car? (Namely, another F4A42) Or a completely different transmission??
Yeah, a used one from a different car. I don't have a Lancer, I have a Maxima. But I assume the steps are relatively the same. I'm only 18 and have never done anything major other than 2 lower intake gaskets on a 3800. So replacing a whole transmission seems overwhelming. But my tranny has some issues and I don't want it to get worse.
Subway Guy What's wrong with it? You know, I get a lot of people that ask "should I do this?" and it is always very hard to answer that question because I don't know you guys. It depends on your mechanical abilities / experience. So only you can know if you should or not.
It's a 2002, so it's got the 3.5L. Not sure on the transmission type/code. But the issue I have is that when you drive the car first thing in the morning or after the car has cooled down a lot, that when shifting into 3rd, it will disengage from 2nd, rev up slightly, and then go into 3rd pretty hard. It will shake the whole car. To reduce the issue, when it's about to shift, I will let off the gas so there isn't any RPM's making the transmission work hard, and then it will shift fine. No jerk, no rev. Now after the car reaches operating temp, I have to get 2nd gear over 4000rpm at least 3-4 times before the issue goes away. Once that happens, the car shifts fine at any speed, no need to let off the throttle anymore. It's a very picky issue that requires certain steps to make it not happen. I went on the Maxima forum and they said the solenoid pack in these transmissions go bad and cause the issue I described. But that requires removing the transmission pan and valve body. Not to mention the solenoid pack itself is over $400. And some people did not have any luck when replacing it. So if I spent the money to buy it and it didn't work, then I'm out $400. So to me, replacing the whole transmission with a used one would be easier and better for the car. The transmission fluid was changed prior to me purchasing it so there's nothing I can really do.
Yeah I would agree that a used transmission is probably the better option given the circumstances. The problem sounds to me like something has gone wrong internally. Could be sticking valves (which move more freely when their bores expand) or leaking seals or whatever. No way to know without investing time in diagnosing. I don't remember this transmission removal being particularly difficult compared to some others I have done so it may not be as bad as you think. There is a first time for everything!
Hi! thank you very much for the video!!! Can you tell the "differences" and "similarities" on removing/refitting a manual transmission? (same Lancer, same engine) I think a manual transmission is smaller, so should be easier? Thanks again!
alot easier no cooler lines electrical connections (almost) no tourqe converter hard to access bolts you will have to remove shifter inside cabin obviously
I think the way you show how you do the work is awesome! I am having an issue with what I believe is my transmission slipping and wish I could begin to understand how to attempt to fix it. Hopefully, in time, with your how to videos I'll muster up the courage to do so.
hey i currently have a problem with my transmission i believe its the cvt type in my 2002 cs2a lancer. however on an incline or on a hill i would lose power and the car goes nowhere peddle to the floor and it just refuses to go revs not climbing i was told it was a problem with the cvt belts in the transmission and i would have to get it change or have my transmission rebuilt . after watching your video i can see all that needs to be done to take it out since i dont have the tools i will be carrying it to a specialist to have it checked and serviced but rest assured the specialist cant tell me anything different to what i just seen here.
joaocarmeloHD I don't think the transmissions in the lancer of this year is a CVT. However I can be mistaken. I can tell you that the one I rebuilt and made videos on was not a CVT. That condition can be caused be a number of different things. Unfortunately I cannot give useful information without diagnosing it myself :\
i had the same problem on hills with my 96 altima,changed my fuel filter and it fixed it,its still kinda iffy but i also need to new throtle cable,hope i helped
i feel like my axle is loose. my lancer is making a clicking noise underneath, checked axle moved it back and forth, it made the same noise i was hearing while driving.
+MattsMotorz The Christmas miracle has arrived, she is running again! I mixed parts from the $100 junkyard one with mine and I only took a short drive, but it shifted and didn't code or lock up. I owe you big time. BTW, I grew up in Easton PA and I see your vids are shot in PA, may I ask what area/county? I don't want your groupies hanging around your home...LOL!
Left field question. Do you know if a 4g63t would bolt up to this same transmission? I just got my hands on a 2003 oz rally that has a blown motor. Been wanting to upgrade it seeing how im already teplacing the motor, but I'm not sure if the 4g63 will bolt up right. It has the 4g96 in it right now.
Love this video! I have a question I have a 2012 Mitsubishi lancer se awd. My gearbox it's bad and my boyfriend wants to convert it to a 2wd is that possible?
Your videos on the F4a42 removal and rebuild were instrumental in removing an F4a41 in a Mirage. Transmissions pretty close. Can't afford a shop rebuild so giving it a DIY rebuild. Car had a clunk at about 30-40 mph then no gears. No forward or reverse. No codes or other transmission failure indications. So far in the tear down no smoking gun. Working on the valve body now. This one also looks like a rebuild as clutch plates look fine. Any suggestions on what to focus on? What parts should absolutely be replaced? Overall great video series.
Bob Gerhart Thanks for watching! Hmm, that is a tough one. There are few things that would cause a transmission to lose ALL of the gears. Even manual gears? (like 1, 2, 3) The issue would likely be in a component that affects fluid pressure to everything such as a pressure control solenoid. Sorry I can't say anything more useful. :\ Also, make sure you have the factory service manual during the rebuild, you can download it online for free.
Great and thanks...yes...even manual gears no-go. The filter does look a bit black inside so maybe that is affecting fluid pressure. Thanks for the immediate feedback.
That actually could be the cause. Many times when filters are going bad (clogged up), the fluid cannot pass through it very well so the transmission ends up backing up and insufficient oil is left in the sump. After letting it sit and letting the fluid drain back, it usually works again for a short while.Sometimes when the filters are really bad they are considerably heavier than the new one.
Hello, can someone help me please? I have a 2006 Lancer Ralliart and the transmission sounds a lot. I went to many junk cars and I only got a 4th generation eclipse with the same 4g69 engine. Will the transmission work for my Lancer Ralliart? I checked the code and the one on the eclipse starts with KF5M422V5P and the one on my lancer starts with F5M422R795. Will it work for you?
I would say so!! I had a 01 stratus R/T with the 3.0L and I was able to do the clutch easy!! I was 17 when I did it haha. I think the only difference is the 3.0L has a ring clip attached to the pressure plate and throw out bearing! You have to push the clip in to separate the pressure plate and throw out bearing. Just remember to put in Gear Oil into the trans when you have everything finished up! I forgot to and blew my trans like 2 hours after I was done😂 lesson learned😂
My 2002 lancer (automatic) transmission does that awful grinding sound when i put it on Drive or reverse, im not good with cars so i dont know what the problem with it and i also dont know how much it would cost to get it fixed. So im debating if i should let it go or not cause i dont know if its worth keeping.
This is a great video! Very informative. Just a question? Are these steps "roughly" the same for other FWD automatic transmission vehicles? I know there's differences between other makes and models but are the steps roughly the same?
HEY!! Listen so I’m about to buy a 5 speed 2015 lancer with 10k miles for 8300 but it’s base model. There’s an auto 2015 lancer for 8500 with AWD and heated seats etc with 50k miles. How much would it probably cost me ball park to swap the auto for a 5 speed so I can have a AWD 5 speed without spending 20/30k on an evo. Would it be worth it man please reply!
Question, I have an 02 Mitsubishi lancer es, I can start it for a few seconds and it cuts off, the if I press the gas pedal nothing happens, it don't Reeve nothing.
+Adain Henry Don't know. What I would do is either call the dealer, or go to a transmission parts website and look up both cars and see if they have the same trans. I like whateverittakes transmission
Thanks for the video!! I dropped my tranny in but i have a manual and there were way less things to remove from the transmission. I was able to leave the cross member attached and just left the 2 mounts hooked up, was that not doable on the auto?
A lot of transmission fluid leaks from my 02 Lancer. Where the axle enters the transmission. How do I fix that? Should i take it off the brake thing, then force it in if it's too far out and loose? I've got no clue what to do, it just leaks from that point and it leaks a lot of fluid.
You need to replace the axle seal. This requires removing the axle and pulling out the old seal either with a seal remover tool (if you have enough room, you can get them at any autoparts store. it is a handle with a hook on each side of it) or a slide hammer. If you go through my rebuild for this transmission, fast forward to the point where I replace the seals to give you an idea.
Hello , 2 questions , what it is the pipe where the hydraulic transmission oil leaves the radiator to be cooled , and where can I get the oil temperature signal of the automatic transmission , thanks
First Question. What do you mean "what is it?" It is a pipe. Second Question: Make some calls to autoparts stores. Pepboys, advanced auto, autozone, etc. If they dont have it check online. I like rockauto.com. Finally if all else fails go to the dealer.
It is seen to have two hoses coming out of the automatic transmission to the radiator to cool the transmission oil , which leaves the oil by the radiator and which returns to the automatic transmission .
Hi my friend, a couple of questions: That Transmission was a CVT? if so, is it true that the carter (engine oil drain pan) is located in the center instead of one side? I'm asking bacause i'm not sure if my Lancer 1.6L GLX 2002 A/T is CVT or not. Actually it's supposed to be CVT, however in the oil dipstick it says ATF so I'm comfused... I'll really apreciate your feedback
+Leo Castro ATF means automatic transmission fluid. A CVT is just a type of automatic transmission. It still uses automatic transmission fluid. The transmission in this vehicle is not a CVT. To find out for sure if your transmission has a CVT transmission, call up the dealer with your VIN number and ask em. They can look it up.
Need a few tips. I will be changing a flywheel on a galant. When you turn the engine is there a specific way I need to or should not turn the crankshaft?
just got an 02 lancer and I've been putting off a transmission. fluid dump bc I can't seem to find that bolt u pulled to dump it can u point out where it is?
Its on the drivers side. Just look for the transmission pan and follow it to the drivers side and there should be a pretty big hex bolt you can remove.
Oh man there are so many things. The first thing would be to study the fluid circuits to see where the problem might be, and then to slap a pressure gauge onto it to observe the pressures and compare to spec.
OK quick question,after watching your video a million times over and over I now know it word for word...is the car in the video auto or manual...? bc my wife's 05 has the same motor and body but when you go to unplug the trans wire harness and disconnect the cooler line and linkage it's a whole new ball game...hers has radiator connections for a return but it is by passed.other than that everything else is the same.I was told the motor has to come out,the cross frame has to come off,blah blah blah,4000$, found cluth kit stage 2 for 114$ new transmission 160$ your video that made a ase certified mechanic look stupid,priceless....
Anything can be done with enough money. In order to do it, you would first need to remount the engine to be longitudinal (as opposed to transverse), as well as obtain a new transmission. That new transmission likely won't bolt up to the engine so you would need some kind of adapter plate. Then you would need a drive shaft and a rear end that accommodates said drive shaft (with a differential). Not worth it IMO. It is one of those "hey this could be cool!" thoughts that, in reality, will not work unless you 1. Have a LOT of money to spend and 2. are VERY mechanically savvy and can fabricate and obtain the necessary parts.