All good except didn't torque the axle nut. Those must be torqued to 188 ft-lb with the wheel hub secured with the tire slightly touching ground (not all the way, like about 10%) or by securing the hub/rotor so it can't turn while it's torqued. Failing to do so will cause it to fail prematurely like mine did. 60,000 miles later.
Bad bearing wheel will be hotter than the rest of the wheels after driving a short while. In the beginning they commonly won't make noise, then they'll make noise more often, then all the time until the wheel will almost seize up. The only other thing that can cause wheel to be hotter is a caliper that's not fully releasing. Then you'll notice excessive and irregular wear on those pads if that is happening, much faster than any others. Sometimes if you think a caliper is freezing you can push it back in with a c-clamp, and when it pedal is applied the next time it will work fine. You can do this 2 or 3 times and notice how well it works.
Unless the Montero / Pajero / Shogun has less than 50,000 miles on it, just take the whole knuckle off. It's much easier and failsafe to do that. Mine had 230,000 miles on it and it would not come out, no matter what, without taking flat punch and 3lb sledge to back of hub.
How did you know they needed to be replaced? I am getting a noise at higher speeds and wondering if mine are going, however I would think it would make noise at any speed if it was the wheel bearing
You will hear inside of the cabin a humming sounds, and if you jack your car and put on neutral gear And turn your wheel manually, and you will hear a grinding sounds and its hard to rotate the wheel.
