Managing camera AND tools WITH gloves...your patience and silence while you suffer to make a video to show me how the job is done is ...... admirable. Respect!
Even i am a technical man with 44 years of maint experience all the tools you have used are special tools and some requires caliberated too. But it was an excellent video highly professional. Cannot be done by ordinary man without having these tools. Excellent video. Plz keep it up.
VERY good video. Finally someone understands we don't need music during tutorials. Good filming angles as well ! this video gave me the confidence of doing this job myself
@@ArchangelAlexander😂 He just copy pasted it from another video, look at all the likes tho, this is the brain power on your average joe today You see he had to mention brake caliper 😂😂😂 Ive never had an issue with a brake line on a caliper in 20 years but everyone repeats the sane line like your doomed to fail without a bungee or an s hangar lmao 😂 Dont forget your torque wrench for proper spec 🤦😜🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Perfection. You showed all steps including detail of how to use the press while on the car. Very professional. I'm kinda experienced with repairs on wheel and suspension things. So this is excellent. Thank you for your service.
Что здесь красивого,только дорогущий инструмент который он рекламирует. Работа по замене подшипника всегда делается со снятием стойки в сборе ,без этого геморроя который он себе устроил.
they missed the step where the circlip slips off the pliers and goes flying across the driveway followed by several expletives. this step is usually repeated 2 to 3 times
Top tip - when doing really tight fasteners don't push down toward the ground. Pull up instead. Pushing down limits you to your own weight and when the wrench slips you'll be astounded at how hard you end up punching the ground and just how much it hurts.
Best video I’ve seen , some of you got to stop about minor things , like the ground he worked on , you did an excellent work sir , right to the point .
THANKS for this. Far more economical and less space than a full-on hydraulic presser (plus add-ons). My snap ring didn't cooperate so I had to pull the knuckle (strut and all to keep alignment), but worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
Мне тоже понятно. Не понятно другое: там три гайки на опорнике открутить осталось и снять всю стойку. Как раз - это самое легкое. Зачем всё разбирать и на висячей стойке корячиться с этим подшипником.?
Just give it a few good smacks to control arm or knuckle and it should pop. Just did a car with 350K KM on it. Not sure if ball joint was ever removed before, everything looks original.
VERY GOOD VIDEO!!! Thank you so much!! I followed the video and EVERYTHING worked PERFECTLY!! This video saved me so much TIME. This is the BEST VIDEO for changing out front wheel bearings!!
To get a true effect of freezing the bearing you need to pack it in dry ice, the regular temperature of a home freezer is just not going to give much time before the frozen item soaks up some heat and re-expands to its regular diameter. The slower you work, the less effective your freezing will be of any use. Dry ice will make your metal parts smaller due to the colder temperature and the parts will stay colder longer giving you extra time install with less effort.
Thank you very much 😊 you showed us everything that we needed Please show us how to fix and dism CV joint and I hope you 🙏 could do more videos 📹that shows everything like this Thanks 😊
+1 I was previewing my upcoming '08 Fusion bearing job. Could tell from a few seconds in, this would be too different, but.. somehow made it to the end. Wow. Found myself entranced watching this dude make that job look so smooth, while getting clear instructions without extra chatter. Also made me appreciate the modern pre-sealed bearing/hub assembly I thought was about to be the downfall of my week.
I’m going to attempt to replace just the front bearing of a Honda Accord 2014. I did the back wheel already but it seems the front takes more work. Thanks for the upload. Be back soon for updates.
I never considered doing this in the car - I've always taken the stub axle off and used a press for the job (I'm a mechanic). If you don't have access to a press or don't have the special tools used in this video, then take the hub assembly or the car to a mechanic.Just remember, when pushing the hub into the new bearing, you must support the rear inner race of the bearing or it will pop out of the cage!
Hello, one thing i learned is that applying heat to the hub will let it expand just a little. You can use a heatgun. This will make jobs like this a lot easier. Regards
Great video, very helpful probably one of the most informative bearing replacement videos ive seen. No need to replace things that dont need it or deal with a press. Now i just need to go to my local auto tool store and rent that bearing removal and installation kit and im ready to go.
The clips on the wheel studs are not required to be reinstalled. They are there to hold the rotor on as the car moves down the assembly line. They are disposable. The wheel hold the rotor in place. A bush grows in the ground. That is a bearing race.
its a security measure for if the axle nut some how comes loose. ball joint break maybe that security clip in the trans on axle shaft and the axle joint bearings might hold it all together LOL> but it really does help keep things at their correct tolerances. the bearing can walk inside and out the hub assembly causing things to rub. i have worked on cars my whole life and i have a few times worked on cars people didnt put those clips back and the back of the shaft was rubbing the steering knuckle. and seen it other way around hub was rubbing steering knuckle. so yes use them clips. old 4x4 systems you better use all parts taken out or it wont work right.
The comment about the race, he didn't cut into the hub at all. He cut a groom and took his wedge and cut the race around the hub until the race was loose enough to pull off. (Simple) Everything else is homme sweet home. He did a fantastic job. Everything else he did besides someone making a comment about the race he cut,even if you haven't ever changed a bearing!! YOU CAN DO IT😊
Its a good video. However i didnt have all these fancy tools when i did mine. I just unbolted the hub leaving on ball joints. Smacked out the old bearing with a chisel and the extention bar of socket set. Then drifted in new bearing using the old one. Refit hub. All done in a car park... no freezer or nothing fancy.
Yeah, that´s not going to work if you live in a place where they salt the roads and the vehicles are rusty after a few years. Unless you have a press tool, that bearing is not going to move.
NOW THAT'S HOW IT'S DONE!! Everything torqued to specs...some folks don't realize how much torque is required for the axle shaft bolt. Improper torqueing of the axle shaft nut is what will ruin the wheel bearings sooner than you expect, this guy did it correct and look how much he had to work that wrench! If you didn't know, the average torque rating for an axle shaft nut is usually 220lbs of torque but varies from manufacturer! Don't do it the buck rogers way, it takes a considerable amount of force to put on 220lbs!
working in the trade as a tech I'd say the average is 180ftlbs most new cars only ask for 120ftlbs on average and trucks 180. German cars ussaully want a torque spec followed by a torque to yield (turn addition 45°, etc) aswell as a new axle bolt every time its removed
Rafael Santana care to explain how a bearing with zero adjustments required will go bad if it’s torqued wrong? The 160 nm it requires is to make sure it won’t fall off
I agree that his torquing of the various bolts was commendable; those are ones that I usually, out of laziness, torque to the universal German spec., Guttentight. That being said, I recently did wheel bearings on a 1994 Corolla and the new bearing came with a note that specifically and prominently stated that the bearing should be torqued without being loaded, i.e. the axle nut should be torqued with the vehicle still on the jack/wheel off of the ground. Although you could accomplish this by having someone push on the brakes while you are torquing the nut, I didn't have a helper, so just jammed a screwdriver in a brake disc cooling vane and let it rest on the caliper while torquing, but my torque spec was around 130 ft. lbs., not sure if I'd want to go over 150 ft. lbs. or so using that method (might damage caliper, bend slide pins, etc.). Just thought I'd mention this as this is the one part of the process I did differently, not sure if it really matters, but figured that I'd follow the instructions, for once ;) To the OP, thanks for the great video!
@ BadDrivers The torque setting will put the correct amount of preload on the bearing for it to work properly. If it is under-torqued, it will have too much slop and vibrate loose and fall apart or come loose. If it is over-torqued, it will wear out faster due to excess heat from pressure and friction. I hope that answers your question.
Great job on the video. One thing I might add is to leave the bearing and hub mating surfaces dry during installation. No lubrication should be on those surfaces.
The materials contract when cooled. I also place the hub in an oven preheated to about 100-120°C to allow the hub carrier to expand a little, without affecting the mechanical properties of the material. Usually about 5-10 mins. If freezing bearings, place them in a freezer bag to prevent moisture building up and freezing on the surfaces and crevices. 20-30 minutes will do.
You put the bearing in the knuckle then the hub on then stand back and admire your work then you see a left over snap ring in the box..... your heart sinks lol
Чтобы закрепить фрагмент, нажмите на него и удерживайте. Незакрепленные объекты будут удалены через час.Чтобы закрепить фрагмент, нажмите на него и удерживайте. Незакрепленные объекты будут удалены через час.Чтобы закрепить фрагмент, нажмите на него и удерживайте. Незакрепленные объекты будут удалены через час.
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You could've removed the caliper & caliper bracket together by first taking a C-clamp & depressing in the top & bottom of the brake pads just enough to make a lil space to be able to slide it off the rotor after you've taken out the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on. Then you could've suspended the caliper, bracket & pads all together. It saves a lil time. I just did this last night. 😊
Nice video, thanks for sharing. I did the same job on a Porsche without the breaker bar, ... used an Ingersoll Rand cordless impact 20 amp battery they really work great, I highly recommend it!
Just watching him makes you wanna go to sleep its good for the ears and u could easily watch him i love seeing mechanics work cause u gotta have a creative mind to know whats what !
One thing you may wanna do is put anti-seize on the face of the new hub. This will help facilitate getting your wheels off should the hub corrode. It will also keep the hub from rusting and distorting the face of the hub so you won't get steering wheel shake as bad
@@joeybuddy96 Yes it is. Assembly lube won't stay put on a fast spinning rotor, but Anti-seize will for the most part b/c it is tackier. It can handle the heat without getting in the way of the mating surfaces or interfering with brake components. It's an old mechanics method that really works.
Nice video, but even more, reminds me not to EVER own one of these vehicles... Thanks for the Heads Up!!! I’d be to impatient to allow the bearing & hub to freeze enough in the FREEZER... U didn’t even cuss one time.. Wow! Amazed!!
Doesn't your phone do that?! "Siri - directions for replacing the front bearings on a 2010 Lexus". Just have your tools ready and.... poof 21 minutes later.... done!
Great video, very good instructions. I could have saved so much money in lift charges at my DIY workshop if I had seen this video before I changed my bearings. Thanks så much.
on the manual of my octavia mk1 is clearly says you need to suspend the front suspension to torque the nut either way. Why? It states that otherwise you will damage the bearing.
permission to cheat, my master, junior black nails Indonesia, is here to always listen, because we are still beginners who specialize in the automotive world. Continued success, my teacher.
A super excellent video.Dont know how I arrived on this channel but ended up watching the full video all day.I found it so them so fulfilling and educating .....outstanding stuff ! best on youtube ! I am a lady and intend to learn tom do stuff like this.Well doneDo you have other playlist of videos..
David Passuello same here ... too much shyt ... afraid I’ll get the wheel off and get the brakes n caliber off n get stuck n be fucked and can’t even drive it to go get help lol
А вообще нужный набор для съёма и прессования подшипников, чем постоянно бегать по сто и упрашивать чтобы запрессовали , в концовке лучше купить этот набор и пользоваться им !
I would think the reason would be because the caliper would be much lighter looking at it logically. The lighter it is the easier it is to hang and if it were to drop it wouldn’t have all that weight pulling on the brake line. 🤷♂️
This is a great idea! I am in the middle of replacing the wheel bearings on my car, and the steering knuckles are off, so I have to take them to a machine shop. That is going to cost me about $150 to have them pressed in along with the hubs. BTW you do not have to remove the calipers from the holders, just unbolt the holders, and slide everything off.
When slitting the bearing centre with a grinder, be careful to not cut too deep. Thin slitting discs slash through hard steel and can easily put a groove into the driveshaft below. If you have ABS, first remove the sensor and make sure the bearing is fitted the correct way around.
I don't want to be a party pooper, but, The plate used to press the bearing in , pressed on the center race before it contacted the outer race, everything would show fine when your done but the life of the bearing has been compromised, Press in on outer race only. ( in knuckle).
@@peterlindvall7671 - anytime you replace a hub or bearing you should get the alignment checked. Even a slight difference can be a big difference on the alignment especially the toe.
@@meabob The difference is negligible providing the alignment was set, and on point, with good bearings. l've had the algnment checked, and its been on, and I've never had uneven tire wear, or squealing tires.
2 bolts away from taking whole thing out putting on work bench and use press that you have to squeeze out, video is 20 minutes long taking whole thing out without rushing can be done even quicker....
@@manofthevalley1 not true, lower balljoint has no alignment needs and the tie rod end will go right back in its tapered hole and the strut only goes in to its original position
@@danielcold9083 I believe you misunderstood. I said "he saved the cost of an alignment" meaning he did not have to get/pay for an alignment for the reasons you mention. Your comment seem to be saying the same thing. I believe we are in agreement here. :)
@@manofthevalley1 The point he was making, which was absolutely what I was thinking also, was that he messed about, doing this on the car, when he was so close to having it removed from the car anyway...what was the point? He's lucky he didn't trash the new bearing.
