Awesome Video Devin. Just a thought. I would buy the Milwaukee M18 Impact. They'll take them bolts right out. Then just get them started and bump them in and then torque them.
When torquing you need to use a steady pull NOT a jerking action. Also pull ONLY on the knurled handle of the wrench NOT using two hands as you were doing. Torque specifications will be different on lubricated versus non lubricated fasteners.
Don't worry about making a stop or cutting a 4x4 to length. Simply grab one of the pallets that were shown from the beginning of the video. Also, get an impact wrench. Man it's so much quicker when using one. Changing teeth on my Fecon head goes quickly.
Make a big version of a wood doorstop to shove at the top and the drum might not spin on you. Make a wooden tripod was a past hint I think will be useful and cheap to repair. Like your videos a lot.
You can use a bar placed through the hole on the side of your mulcher to hold the drum from spinning during maintenance. It will save a lot of struggle for you.
Have you seen Chris (letsdig18) new Volvo 350 excavator Devon? It’s a monster brother, talk about huge machine that he deserves! He had a smile so big when it arrived at his job! I love it, nice addition to his work force! 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I was raised in north west and we call that a breaker bar. For breaking loose bolts. I believe the bottom sharpened teeth will dig in better. Top sharpened teeth will deflect and require more pressure to dig in. If you did just brush I'd choose the top sharpened. For trees and stumps I'd choose the bottom sharpened. I believe the bottom sharpened teeth are the over all best designed for all around versitile productivity. I think the top sharpened would work best for brush and for cutting the brush down to the surface of the ground without being so quick to dig into the dirt without meaning to. Talk to any pro wood worker about chisel use and they could explain it better than I can. Some people prefer the ease of sharpening the outside of the teeth over the extra work it takes to sharpen under each tooth. This laziness I call it is even spilled over into the chainsaw chain sharpening. But the consequences from this is slower productivity. When talking about chainsaws the cutting is slower and takes more effort to cut through the wood. I firmly believe this to be true. On a chainsaw chain, I believe the chain will wear out quicker due to more frequent sharpening needed to keep it cutting fairly well when each tooth is sharpened on the outside of the tooth. This is my honest opinion.
Just a thought about your Allen tool. To make more room between the bolt and the tooth mount seat the tool in the bottom of the bolt if there's a gap between get a grinder and grind the tool until there is no gap
