MK4 GOLF GTI BOOST ISSUES SOLVED (N75 VALVE) 

Agreed, I just know that some people have had issues with the FORGE 008 and people always say that there is no need to change the OEM one unless it fails

Yo, thank you Jake bro 🙏

Thanks John, I was very unsure as I know that issues when it comes to how the car runs can be down to so many things. Glad I got there in the end 👍🏽

Hahaha day to day I cruise man, just the Golf can bring out the 21 year old me sometimes and I love it 👊🏾 top man ✌🏾

I'm happy to hear that! Good luck 👌🏾

Thanks a lot man, it was a hard one for me to film as it was done over a few weeks while waiting for parts and researching. Nice one Andrew 👊🏾

Hey man, it could also be a coil though as when I blew a coil it was doing the same thing to be honest with you. If you can get your car fault codes read it may be missing on a cylinder intermittently with the bad coil

Hey, don't forget that this could also be a blown coil. I had this issue again and that is what it turned out to be

I think they are just at that age where some bits have had their day. It makes me feel better to know its not just me. There seems to be a good few common problems with these motors. You are welcome mate and best of luck with the car 👍🏽

@@SPOOLINUP Thank u glad I found your channel 🙂✌🏻

Respect Glen!! Stick around, maybe I will get all the issues on mine before you do lol. I'm glad you have come along. Top man 👍🏽

Think we all have this problem , still trying to sort mine out glad I found this video and hope it helps

I hope this video helps you too mate, issues with the car can be frustrating but I am sure you will be good and sorted ASAP! Good luck man

Thank you bro 👊🏾

Thank you man! I also found out later that I had a blown coil a few weeks after it was doing something similar and that was the issue.

@@SPOOLINUP Ahh that would make sense. I've got a similar issue, changed all the coils and the DV and it's still doing it. So I'm hoping changing the N75 should do the trick. I just hope it's not the coil loom, as they say that could be an issue as well that's related to misfire Keep up the content bro

Have you had it code read though? Someone will be able to tell you quickly what the issue is. How about plugs? Have you given them a go? I too hope it is not the coil loom but everything can be repaired so its definitely not the end of the world. Let me know what you find, I have my fingers crossed for you 🤞🏽

Sounds good man, I can't remember what spring I have in mine but I am sure it is the weakest one but I will change it when it comes to mapping. I just swapped the N75 like for like in the end

Yes you are right, so when you have an atmospheric 'dump valve' or 'blow off valve' it dumps the air that has been registered by the MAF and therefore makes miscalculations. However the recirculation valves like the Bosch OEM valve and the Forge 008p which I have installed keep the air within the system. 👍🏽 I've heard the best one is the standard Bosch

Hey man, I was so unsure but I am glad I got there in the end. Thanks for confirming that the spike is normal behaviour. I am still learning about this engine. Now I can start moving on to other things 👍🏽

That cringey smile 🤣🤣🤣

Yes mate, I read somewhere that a MAF issue or an N75 issue may not result in a fault code on diagnostics. The N75 valve I used in the end was from a dealer, I wouldnt recommend Ebay ones. Good luck man and I hope you get to the bottom of the issues you are having. Pray its not a vacuum leak 🙏

@@SPOOLINUP how much did it cost at the dealer?

I think it was about £104 mate but I cant remember for sure

You are welcome, glad you enjoy the content mate. Not sure what you mean about the car not going above 3K RPM, does it shudder under acceleration or just stops accelerating? I also had an issue with one of my coils during this time period so I changed that too because it was making my car shudder and hesitate intermittently. I love the Forge 008p man its great, glad you like it too. When I changed my N75 I never messed with the battery or leaving it unplugged. Best thing would be to read a few forums and see what they say, I never had any issues. Good luck bro

Hey man, hold fire brother. It may actually be your coils or spark plugs. I had the same issue again so not sure this actually fixed it because it was temperamental. I would suggest trying the coils to be honest. Hope this helps

During my tuning session I blew coils and it was doing the exact same thing.

@@SPOOLINUP hey, changed the sparkplugs and the coils, problem still there. have you found the problem yet? I'm thinkin that it might be something with the fuel. was fixing my frozen handbrake under the car when i saw something dripping. looked closer and one of the fast connectors to the fuel filter was loose. put the connector back on and the problem went away. returned the day after but i think that it is something wrong with the connector, and that the car is pulling in air trough the fuel lines. but honestly im out of ideas. might turn it in to a vw mechanic just so i know what the problem is so i dont spend more money than i need to.

Hey mate, the problem is sometimes different issues can cause similar symptoms, so it can be hard to diagnose. Do you have any lights on the dashboard? It is probably a good idea to get someone to plug into the car and look at the love data/codes. I think its a good idea to let someone have a look for you mate. Sorry you have this ongoing issue, but I'm sure it will be sorted soon.

Make sure you have a good read of forums first and try and get a cheap code reader if you don't have one already as it may save you some money. Good luck

Thanks bro, yeah its an annoying problem. You can try www.onlinecarparts.co.uk or www.autodoc.co.uk and they offer a range of valves. You can also go to the stealers (main dealer) if you want. Top man good luck keep me posted 👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾

Have you considered that it could be your coils because one of mine blew and it did exactly the same thing. Yeah I called VW and picked one up but it was really hard to diagnose. I wouldn't say it was 100% my N75 in hindsight but I'm not sure.

Hey man, I hear what you are saying, I've learned recently that its normal for the boost to peak and then drop down and even out so I hope you arent worried about that. As for the car going into the soft limp mode I am not too sure. Have you got any codes come up? Also thats cool man the Ebay one will be fine, the genuine one that I bought actually does the same thing as the Ebay one which really baffled me and makes me think that the OEM one that was faulty was very knackered. Get the Ebay one, fit it and if it solves your problem then you know it was the N75 so if it bothers you then you can always buy genuine. Its cheaper then buying genuine and realising that it wasn't faulty in the first place. I hope you get to enjoy your car again! I'm assuming your car is mapped

@@SPOOLINUP I dont have an obd reader or vag com but I had no EML until I've done my 3" downpipe and decat and only running the primary lambda with the 2nd one blanked off and removed. The car had a stage 1 map in 2016 with only a ram Air induction kit, I've now fitted an s2000 air filter, a forge 007p diverter valve, an FMIC setup, a creations motorsport TIP and im gonna update the fuel pump to an APS in tank 255 one. Also done the n249 bypass and just waiting for catch can so I can do evap, pcv and sai delete, then its stage 2 mapping time with pops and bangs put in. Just don't wanna take the car to the tuners with it not right. Will keep my fingers crossed the n75 does the trick.

Lovely mate sounds like a great plan, exactly the same plan as mine for the Stage 2. On my second lambda I used a lambda fooler/spacer that limits the readings the lambda gets even with the decat. I have a streetwise odb thing, it was like £20 and I've used that a few times, its been great. I hope it is your N75 considering you have ordered it and its a really easy fix. Sometimes you hear nightmare stories about parts that aren't OEM but you can't believe them all!

@@SPOOLINUP Yea there's always someone that has a story about their car throwing a rod coz their part from China failed haha. I will have to put a couple of videos up on here of my car, its surprising how few there are on the seat leon on here, its mostly the golf mk4 I can only find. Pretty much the same car by all accounts.

Hahaha yes mate you hit the nail on the head, I've heard some of the funny horror stories myself. I actually read something about an Ebay N75 and was told to only fit a genuine MAF because someone's car went bang with a cheap one lol. Yeah mate put some videos up of the Seat because they are a really nice car and come with a nice spec.

You are welcome mate, I also had an intermittent issue with a coil which was causing a very similar problem so it could also be that.

@@SPOOLINUP hi bro, i already change my n75 valve but still happening same problem.. it could be a coil? Maybe a coil misfire at high rpm (3.000-5.000 rpm)? My golf is stage 2 with stock coil..

Hi mate, sorry to hear that. Yes it could be a coil because I have had the same thing happen to me as well and this time it was a coil because it developed onto a proper misfire in the end. Did you try a coil?

@@SPOOLINUP hi mate, today i changed fuel filter (is going to bad) and found my intake is not tight to turbocharger.. i also cleaning the throttle body and check coil + plugs (every things is good) and the problem still happening but the loss power is decreased.. untill now im still figuring out how to solve my problem..

Have you tried to unplug your MAF sensor to see if that makes any difference?

I would start by scanning for codes first really. You could possibly have an N75 problem, it could be your MAF or even a boost leak. Unfortunately without trial and error its not that easy. You could try and unplug your MAF to see if it helps but you will get your traction light come on and may need to delete it with a computer after. So I would say scanning and unplugging the MAF are the cheapest things to try first.

@@SPOOLINUP yeah narrowing it down it seems like it would be an N 74 issue but shouldnt I be able to fix that with a manual boost controller

If I am totally honest with you I am not familiar with manual boost controllers. Have you Google searched to see if anyone else has used one on a 1.8t before? If you have a friend with a 1.8t you could swap thr N75 temporarily and see.

@@SPOOLINUPmanual boost controller is know to just give a lag, as the spring replacement In The diverter would as well, so it will fix it but you get boost lag.

Wicked, man. I hope that solves your issues with the car. You can't go wrong buying genuine sometimes man it's the way forward. Let me know how it goes

@@SPOOLINUP worked!!! Holy shitballs what a difference. It’s just always there, always power… what a relief. Also easy install. Just needed your video for some confidence if I’m doing a proper swap. Thanks for that!

I'm happy to hear you got the car all sorted and it's performing properly again. It's so nice to be able to drive your car after an annoying fault has been fixed. Good on you!! I'm glad I was able to help in a way.

Hey man, I managed to fix the problem with a new N75, also after recently doing the engine bay deletes I found a few vacuum leaks that my have also been causing issues. I did swap the DV back to the OEM one and the car was doing the same thing, also I havent had the Forge one for long, not sure how many miles the service intervals are. Thanks for that though I will keep that in mind 👊🏾

@@SPOOLINUP Great videos Mate. I just fitted a forged turbo inlet pipe on my 1.8T this weekend. It was a pain in the ass, put I does pull stronger 👌🏽

Thank you bro!! I'm glad you fitted it and succeeded man well done, feels good once that job is out of the way lol. Always wondered if the Forge was a better option. Good luck with the car man

Hahaha mate, I hope it does the trick for you. I also had to change a blown coil about a week later as the problem seemed to come back. Not sure the replacement N75 fixed my issue as it was intermittent anyway. Tough one but I've got my fingers crossed for you

@@SPOOLINUP cheers bro I think its defo made an improvement but still not completely happy.... yet UPDATE yeah its defo quicker and better but when I stick my foot down down it ain't letting off as I think it should. My biggest issue I got at the minute is juddering when I first put it into gear. Judders bad af in reverse mainly. So carnt really get a smooth ride and I'm not sure why now. Gonna vac test it and new air filter is next. Praying to the good Lord my turbo ain't 💀 If your ever stuck for a vid could you do one on the shift linkage. I know how to set them but I don't actually understand the functions well. Cheers for vids Naz 👍 👍

@themythrighthere9412 Apologies for the late reply my friend, I don't always get notified with new comments. How is the car at the moment? I have not experienced this myself so did you manage to get it all sorted? The weather is getting good and it would be nice if you could enjoy your car this summer. Yes mate if I get stuck for a video I could do one on the gear linkage. Are you talking about down at the gearbox end? Thanks for the idea 🙏🏾

@@SPOOLINUP it's all good Im glad you even reply at all 😄😄😄 still got the same issue bro. I also think it's overheating but the needle staying in the middle 😬 I ordered new engine mounts, water pump + timing belt, radiator, v belt. Timing belt+ water pump is scary to me 2bh and mechanics by me don't want to touch it cuz it's my own parts. On the shift linkage yeah the spin clip end near slave cylinder please bro.

Do you have any diagnostic equipment? I got a small code reader and it's nothing special but sometimes things like that help a lot. I know some mechanics are funny about using customer bought parts and it's because they make a little on the side buy purchasing it at trade price and charging you retail. (Just in case you didn't know). What makes you think the car is overheating? Cool bro thanks for being patient anyway 🙏🏾

Hey man, hope you are well. Is it a 2.0 non-turbo engine? If so, then it won't have an N75 valve. It might be a blown coil as not long after this video the problem repeated and I had to change a coil.

Hey man, thanks. That problem used to come and go but at least its sorted now. That N75 was a £100 sting in the pocket though so yeah need a dealer discount next time. Mate your car is faster then mine, if you want to race I will bring out the 330ci 🙂

@@SPOOLINUP ill race him in my golf bro 😉

Mate I feel your pain, it is always the way. Recently I have had a coil gone, been told my first lambda sensor isn't working and its down to my ECU 🤣 MAF isn't working as it should be!! Glad you have got to the bottom of it though man, count the positives lol

18t-tuning.co.uk/engine-advice/understanding-n75-valve/ Take a look at that link, it explains it all much better than I ever could.

Hahaha I felt bad that day for the locals but made sure I moved about so as not to annoy the same people. 'Twas a good day nonetheless 🤣🤣

No and it's possible that the N75 was actually ok. As the fault was intermittent it just so happens that maybe when I swapped the N75 the problem stopped occurring only to recurr later on and I swapped a coil, and I have been problem free.

Hey man, thanks for your feedback I appreciate it. First of all well done for fixing the car and getting it on the road 👏. You could check to see if the exhaust hangers in the middle section are broken, mine were and it caused the exhaust to knock every now and then. Bearings normally make a deep droning noise that resonates into the car. When do you notice this noise? What speeds? All the time? Turning the wheel?

@@SPOOLINUP Thanks man 💯.. I’ll firstly check the exhaust hangers.. it sounds like a grinding noise that is getting louder and louder as I pick up speed. The car was sitting for about a year before I got it, I was thinking I may have to lubricate the bearings if it is the problem or else get new ones

Oh right if its a grinding noise it probably won't be the exhaust. I would say to jack the car up and make sure the brakes aren't binding. Could even be that the handbrake is slightly stuck on at the brake side of things. Also check the back plates behind the discs arent bent and making contact. 👊🏾 Good luck

@@SPOOLINUP Yeah I will give that a go and see what happens, I’ll let you know how I get on 👍 Nice one!

@@Lav_Adam98 Yes mate keep me updated!! Nice one 👍

Hey man sorry to hear that, I am on Instagram @nazspoolinup but here is good anyway. If I am totally honest with you the best people to ask are the people on the forums and groups. I mostly diagnose my car based on what people have said on forums because some of these people have owned many 1.8t cars or even owned a 1.8t for years. There are some really experienced people on Facebook 1.8t groups too, I think that is your best port of call.

Damn that sounds like you have been through a lot. Have you seen if the wastegate is seized? If that is stuck open then you won't be able to get any boost.

Did you change your spark plugs?

How much slower does it feel? I assume you don't have a boost gauge? My car was going in to limp mode and not boosting over 5psi, that felt smooth and very slow.

@@SPOOLINUP no boost gage but that sounds like exactly what my car is doing, I've plugged it in and no new codes have come up , could a faulty o2 sensor or maf sensor throw it into limp mode ?

To be perfectly honest with you I am not 100% sure. I had an o2 sensor issue and it never actually caused much trouble other than overfuelling. When my car was going in to the soft limp mode I had a vacuum leak that I had to fix. If you turn your car on and off does it make a difference? In other words temporarily come out of limp mode? Also have you tried to swap the old N75 back on to the car to see what happens? Also have you fitted it the correct way? Made sure all of the hoses are attached correctly and tight to the N75?

@@SPOOLINUP nice one for the reply and suggestions, I do have o2 sensor code but It had that before and was running fine, maybe its just got worse and sends it into limp mode more frequently. Sometimes when I turn it on and off it makes a difference but recently it's just stayed on the 5psi limp mode , going to put old n75 back on tomorrow and go get 2 new o2 sensors

@@dalehopcroft6439 No worries man any time. My fault finding knowledge is very limited to be honest. I would say see what the old one does. Do you know what lambda sensor is giving a fault? Bank 1 sensor 1 or is it bank 1 sensor two? Basically is it the sensor before or after the cat?

Hey man, I had that problem and it ended up being my N75 valve, I know some people say it could be the diverter valve too but you can test the diverter to make sure it is ok. I bought a cheap N75 from Ebay and it worked so then I went to the dealer and bought a genuine one.

@@SPOOLINUP so i should change n75? What is diferent now?

@@armwrestlingforlife you just told you he bought an n75 and it worked

Hey man, I hope it helps you too as I know there are many issues that can cause these kind of symptoms with the car as you know yourself considering what you have changed so far. Best of luck fixing the problem 👍🏽

Also should I get the n75j valve or wait and see if I need one

Hi mate, if you read online the stock one is more than capable of dealing with a stage 2 map for sure. I just changed mine to prevent a possible air leak in the future because the OEM rubber diaphragm can split. Its totally up to you but not essential.

I would just wait to see, no point in changing it if it hasn't caused you any problems. Good luck with the car im sure its great.

@@SPOOLINUP oh you bet, 20th anniversary a nice blue colour it’s beautiful. Anyways thank you

Very nice mate, they are a very nice car when looked after with some nice little mods and plenty of part available.

Just to let you know, I did also have a blown coil, which was causing intermittent issues with the car. I blew another coil after mapping and it was doing exactly the same thing.

Yeah man its so annoying when you car starts acting up like that, I used to hate driving it for those reasons. You can go top to bottom replacing almost part that isn't even faulty just to find the cause. I hope that sorts it for you 👍🏽 good luck

@@SPOOLINUP me too as your right you end up getting fed up of the car while throwing money at it

Exactly that but once you find the problem you can keep those other things you changed as spares so its not the end of the world.

@@simondarrie666 Did you fix it curious to know

Your car doesn't make boost?

@@SPOOLINUP Yes

@@SPOOLINUP everything has been changed on the engine but the problem continues

Have you gone and checked all of the hoses, pipe and plugs to make sure it is all ok? Also you can get a boost leak test done? Maybe its leaking boost

Hi, I know you used a translator so it's a little hard to understand fully. I hope your car is ok and you managed to sort it out.

@@SPOOLINUP donde has comprado la válvula nueva?

Hi, no problem I will try my best. Your English is pretty good actually to be honest. So I had the problem of the boost issues when the car would boost, pause and then start to boost again so I changed the boost control valve which fixed the problem. A few months later the problem returned and this time I had a faulty coil which was causing an intermittent misfire so I had to change that as well. Also I believe vacuum leaks can do this. If you search on Google there will probably be a forum for the Astra J 1.4T where you can see people discussing this problem.

Hi Harry, I am based in London mate so pretty far away from you. To be honest I would always suggest checking the vacuum lines in the engine bay first, also it would be pretty handy if you could get it hooked up to a diagnostic machine as it saves you from all of the guess work.

Hi, reset the ECU at what point?

@@SPOOLINUP just before you install the new valve. I've ordered mine but have read about a reset... Maybe not necessary?

I have a code reader and I know I was messing around with it but not sure if I used it to reset anything to do with the N75 replacement. I'm not entirely sure to be honest.

@@SPOOLINUP thanks for the reply, much appreciated. Great videos as well.

You are welcome man, any time. Sorry I couldn't be of much help! Good luck with the car and thanks for your feedback man 👍🏽

058 906 283 F - this is what came off my Golf. 06A 906 283E - this is what they gave me at VW

Hi, the boost gauge came from Ebay, the vent pod came from Awesome Gti and the extra hose and joiners came from Ebay or Amazon.

Its just an ebay one man. If you type boost gauge into ebay many will come up. It may be 54mm I cant remember.

I tried to find an answer for this myself and couldn't. The ebay one I bought leaked, the VW one leaked but the original one I took off wasn't so I was quite confused.

@@SPOOLINUP yeah exactly buddy, I thought that the n75 I bought which was a original one aswell was faulty so I sent it back and got another new original one which leaked but I put it on the car and the car seems fine so I don't know🙈😂

I wish I knew more so I could explain it for the sake of both of us but I cant. Let's just be happy that the cars are fine and they work again 🤣🤣

@@SPOOLINUP that's so true brother, thanks for all the great videos 💯from fitting the turbo inlet pipe , to intake and n75 , really helped me a lot 💯

Means a lot to hear it from you mate you are more than welcome any time, im just as grateful for your views and comments as you are for the videos. I hope to have some better çontent up soon 💯

What do you mean mate? You want the part number?

That is normally how things work isn't it? Turbo doesn't really do much boosting until the higher revs. It could be your N75, have you checked if it is a common problem on the forum?

Yo Billy hope you are well mate. Thanks for letting me know that man I never knew! It was just really really annoying!

Really? You know its funny you mentioned that because one of my friends told me that he did the same thing. Have you got NGK?

Well, I guess that is a sacrifice most of us decide to make when we modify our cars. Half the time they get destroyed

That's what I find out when putting a 33-2865 SPORTS AIR FILTER Spray it with silicone oil solved the problem. I will fit a new one this week, because cleaning it with the oil is only a temporary thing.

I understand, I will need to clean my air filter soon just to make sure it stays clean and performs well.

Can you help me do it? 😊

@@SPOOLINUP um I'm just 13 but there are some videos on RU-vid 😀

@@SPOOLINUP I know there are two types of NOS : wet and dry , dry one is simple you connect it to turbos air intake pipe directly and the wet one is (i don't know how to connect the wet one i thing it must connect the same way)

@@nuhro4235 Hahaha well I'm afraid that is a job for an experienced engineer and if I installed a NOS system it would end in a ball of flames 😂

@@SPOOLINUP 😀😂

Hahaha not a chance in hell mate 🤣

I think these valves are made by Eaton. Is it the exact same N75 for those engines too? I would suggest using the part number in a search engine. Also did you check your coil packs? I also had a coil issue at the time.