From someone with a little experience with this type of race car (1/4 mile asphalt) let me expound. Center steering (Franklin?) is the way to go. the steering position is the most important part of the build now. for driver comfort/safety. And there (if possible) make some sort of allowance for different drivers size. There were several placements for the clutch including a hand lever. Clutch use is minimal so the placement for operation is NOT important. We had Ford 3 speed floor shift with first/reverse removed and was push started. Weight saving with no starter. With center steering the brake pedal is the second most critical position. Either hand or if possible left foot., we are more used to left foot braking now. Right foot is more important and should have a strap to hold foot in position and a good sized pedal. This is more important for control. .Short shift lever with big knob as not to interfere with any leg movement. We tried may combinations of gearing and surprising the best (as I remember ) was to run 3.54 locked rear and use second gear. Make sure the is a "PAPPY STRAP" to hold lever in second as they do tend to pop out. Roll cage should be slightly taller than driver with helmet on and STRONG. I wrote to you already in regards tp let front wheel positioning. With the correct set up and all in peak trim it was possible even with a flat head or the 6 cyl.. to almost lift left front wheel coming out of the corners on asphalt. I recommend hanging the steering from the reinforced dash position leaving more foot room. Possibly some sort of adjustment. Also side nerf bars, I don't remember if they were on the car. Good luck!
Looks to me like Mat builds drivable artifact cars not max track or trailer queens which end up burdens the kids just dump same time as our ashes. First it has to be practical.
Videos like this one are so desperately needed. It is all part of the process. There is an awful lot of head scratching, what if we… make something, install it, take it out, stare at is some more, try something else… and eventually you have a finished product… and so many people have no idea the time it all takes. Just like the video of you tidying up door gaps and finishing around the dash. Unless you have done this, you have no idea the hours that go into it. Great video as always. Hejsan till Carl och Jakob. Kanske vi kommer träffas i Sverige.
I love the fact that this is not overhauling drama drama drama irontrap keeps it real with real steel no cars built in a day I think this is going to be one of their coolest cars ever with the original history of the car included I'm sure Moon's tail is straight up
Please get a quick disconnect for that steering wheel! Midget/sprint cars require them for safety. Usually have a pillow block bearing on the steeringwheel shaft braced to the underside of the dashboard. V8-60 connecting rods were once the preferred mounting brackets for steering boxes. That would allow you to move the frame mounts forward and then "reacharound" the motor. They also extended the ends of the steering box to fit wider frame rails.
those guys from sweden are having a once in a lifetime experience hanging out with you. i doubt there are a lot of hot rod builders who work on original early fords like you do back home.
I recall seeing an old dirt jalopy race car here in Kansas that used a bicycle chain from the center located steering wheel-column to the steering box mounted column on the left side. They had mounted sprockets on each for the chain to run on.
Alot of looking and thinking. Measure twice and make it nice. Ergonomics, form, fit, function. Take the needed time to design and build it right. Roll bar, rear bumper, front cage and steering reinforce that dragster look. Great that you are attempting to maintain the original concepts but still manage to build a better racer. Improving without compromising too much.
Put the steering box on the left and make it a two-seater and have it be more than it was. Some races do require more than just the driver, it wouldn't hurt to have the second seat then you can do your clutch and brake idea and set it up as a regular racer where it is not just limited to just the driver.
I enjoy seeing how you do what you do. That being said which is more important the destination/end product or the journey/ process? To me it is the journey/ process, educationally speaking.
Regarding floor....consider that many such track racers had a undertray that hung down quite a ways below the frame rails. Perhaps this car also had that if I recall? Much more room for feet, pedals and such.
Shorten the column a little and lift the wheel up enough to clear your legs. This will give an additional clearance to move your elbows and arms. Nascar wheels are close to the chest to take advantage of a position that reduces the stress on the arns for a long period of time. It is not a street car so the position you have chosen is more race like.
This is going to be cool. I hope you plan to do a fair amount of drag racing, and film the events. That flat six might not be a horse power giant, but in a feather weight car like your T it should make a ton of torque. For what it is it should be kind of quick, and 100% fun to drive.
The steering wheel column would fit through the dash in centre hole and have steering box mounted up high under dash out of the way, then shorten column giving all the room you want or need
i like the engineering head scratching! i know there's a bunch of disagreement with "cowl-steer" drag link positioning regarding dirt track racers v. hot rods generally; seems what reportedly works for the former may not work for the latter. a lot of street hot rods get it wrong in the name of looking cool.
That's a good idea because if you had to take it apart, you could easily disassemble it if you needed to, and the pedals would be separate from that mounting structure.
