Could you please release a public wiring diagram to allow us to mod our regulators too? I've taken out all that I think was unnecessary but I am not a good electrician. I follow tutorials that you and other modders post online. If you could really draw up a simple diagram for us it would help me a ton. Thanks, much love, nerf out
Kinda disappointed in this video Drac you cut out a lot of the work that seems easy to you but on a complicated blaster like this, I feel like including every part is crucial
please keep us updated, if the circuit can maintain the power of a 2S ofer a longer period of time. would say a day at a SENC war would be enough testing ;)
How many of you watching this realize the level of skill and intelligence you are witnessing? And that ability coupled with the confidence to be the first to take on such a task only adds to it. I teach engineering and can tell you it is impressive.
Surprisingly as this hobby has grown more and more, this is becoming a very common skill amungst us modders. Once you figure out volatage, amperage, simple positive and negative wiring, and finding balace between the motors and the battery, it all comes together and becomes rather simple. In all honesty what drac did with the Regulator here is rather simple. Other builds with full rewires are much more complex. I do agree it's impressive though, 2 years ago and I would've been blown away by this, but now it's just simple to me.
What happens if you use the cantilever flywheel with the accu strike darts. Will it add the the accuracy to the darts over a longer period of time and range? Will it in theory add more spin to the dart? I hope you make a video on this drac.
Probably doesnt help much with accustrike darts they are already plently good. Canted cages do put a spin on the dart this is incredibly basic stuff they have been using the same tech to do this on american football pitching machines for a long time now. FDS isnt a god he makes mistakes too so please dont just take his word as gospel and do your own testing.
The spin is too minuscule to make a difference, there are multiple videos comparing the 2 cages, extremely identical with the canted cage having less range, power and fps
Many years later, how did this mod hold up? I’ve heard the Regulator boards were notorious for frying under the 2s, which is the only thing that has stopped me from cracking mine open, worried I’ll scrap it.
$60 USD MSRP. Only $10 more than the Hyperfire. Regulator comes with a bunch of plastic attachments; it's a better deal for consumers. $10 more than the ECS-10, but it has select fire. The Regulator more or less replaces both in Nerf's line up. Barring personal preferences, what's not to like? If someone doesn't want the attachments, mags, extra darts and select fire, buy a $20 Stryfe. Modded performance on the 2S LiPo seemed comparable to 2x18650 LiIon performance with stock wiring, but it works.
Dear Drac, I watched this video about 48 times before I worked up the courage to venture into my own Regulator mod. Well I failed miserably. I persevered and trudged thru. I feel like I could have avoided a couple hickups with your mod guide..... but it was incomplete. I managed to overcome and surmount the mountain, but wish I had a little more guidance along the journey. I recorded a video of my failure in hopes to help another avoid the catastrophe i encountered. I love your channel and watch it daily, but please help us unlock the Regulators true potential. Sincerely, A fan and brand new modder
Rewired one myself using this as a tutorial for the majority (and as background noise) seems to work still and am planning to make it a bullpup mod too :D
Don’t get rid of the small circuit board near the jam door lock it’s really important, I just took it out of mine and the blaster wouldn’t work so I had to put it back in
The answer on whether a Regulator is worth it or not goes from "Yes" to "HELL YES" when you catch it on sale for almost half off. ... Yes. I did literally shout "Hell yes!" in the middle of a Target when I spotted the one I bought on sale.
Top 5! Modulus Guns Top 5! Doomlands Guns Top 5! SENC Mods (not including your own) Top 5! Single-shot Pistols Top 5! Multi-shot Pistols Top 5! Air Powered Guns Top 5! Clip-fed Blasters (Actual clips) Top 5! Magazine-Fed Springers
So we don't need to replace the switches? If I'm reading this correctly, just replace the motors and remove the circuit boards from the motors and bypass the locks?
Alright, so what I got from this was that the flywheels are completely separate from the switch fire mechanism, which means that you can boost the flywheels as much as you want, but have to rig some sort of second circuit to increase the power. The feeder, you can't do much.
The board you removed from the feeding motor, what is it purpose? When removed, does it increase feeding speed? The reason I ask, I have a nstrike hyperfire which isnt getting it is 5 rounds/min. So, I wanted to modify it in a simple manner. Anything I can do to increase feeding rate (i.e. remove the board on the feeding motor, does it add resistance?)
Drac, where is the thermistor located in the regulator? I don't want to fuss around, I'l like to just locate it, solder it and call it a day. Any help would be appreciated. I saw your board pics on Reddit but couldn't find a definitive location....
hay drac did you keep the jam and mag lock wires connected? did you replace the switches? did you replace the battery wiring or solder the xt 60 right on the gray and black wires?
At this point, I wonder if it's really worth buying this thing and upgrading it, vs. coding an arduino chip with one of the rapidstrike programs already available. An arduino is not expensive, and the code has already been worked out by others.
Did you ever screw the motors in? I’m having issues with mine, the FPS is atrociously inconsistent and well below the ones i’ve seen online (it goes from 55FPS to 92FPS max) even though it was wired very similarly to yours
hey drac could you make guides on buying the right [insert type of part needed for a mod (flywheel cage, motors, etc, etc)] and make it a series, because it would greatly help beginers like me with help formulating our parts lists
shadowsa2b it shouldn't affect anything, just solder the wires connected to it together to complete the circuit. If something goes wrong, simply de-solder the wire and solder the wire back up to where it was originally.
Could I use a pair of out of darts valkyrie Motors and a worker 3s 550 mah lipo in on of these. I don’t want to spend the money on all of that and burn everything out
Selena Gamya I've seen people make full select fire Rayvens before, but they didn't have anything to do with the Regulator. The parts in the Regulator are wayy different in size and how they fit to go into a Rayven, but I'd love to see it done. But I'd guess a big probably not. There are luckily other ways of getting a select fire Rayven though, just take a look around RU-vid and the rest of the internet, I'm sure someone will have some advice on where to start.
I’ve heard the select-fire kits for other blasters are riddled with issues and aren’t reliable, though. Has that changed? I really only cling to this one for the select fire, would love an alternative if they’ve worked out the bugs.
@@aetherwise2159 I’m sure they have by now, it also depends on who you buy it from, and how it’s made. Some kits are more money, but are built with aluminum and such and better wiring, then some people make them with 3D prints and such which tend to degrade and such overtime. It depends. If you’re not into super sweaty nerf tournaments then I’d say the nerf brand version like this one is fine.
Drac, this is kind of a personal question so don't be afraid to just say that you'd rather not say. I'm curious, how do you afford all of these blasters? Do you have a job or do you make enough off of your modified blaster auctions?
ItalianJackAttack he makes revenue off of RU-vid, and as well as occasionally selling his moddified blasters he makes in some of his tutorials. Beyond that, alot of things are sent to him by either friends, fans, or companies to review products so they can gain popularity more quickly in this Community.
Michael 352411 yes the stock wiring and board takes a 2s lipo perfectly, as long as you're not replacing the motors with anything higher than the meishel motors. I swapped to fang revamped and the board fried
Has anyone checked if the hyperfire flywheel cage will fit in this? im hoping to print the openflywheelproject cage to get rid of the canted (is that the correct word) flywheels. iv looked at this video along side www.thingiverse.com/thing:2426295 and it looks like it would mount the screw holes in the same place.
just tell me how to clip out the dumbass LED and if its safe, its always blinking with full mags too, they should have made it blink 2-3 times, not 15 seconds
Drac the video is missing basic sections such as the closing of the blaster... I tried it with the materials you put a link to and it failed miserably The main microchip burned the area that connects to the motors so I had to bypass it and when on the lipo the main microchip started smoking like crazy and it almost burned out thankifully I managed to save it but it still runs on normal batteries it couldnt withstand the lipo . so a really big hustle for nothing... please be more carefull on your next guide it was the first time I was dissapointed and I really believe in you since I tried most of your guides even the difficult ones
Can anyone help me plz? I disabled all the locks on my regulator but it doesnt rev anymore. I really need help. P.S. I don't have sottering tools or anything like that.
PaingelFake you may have removed an important component instead of a lock. But if you cut any wires at all that's why it won't Rev, those locks need to be wired/soldered so it can complete the circuit.
