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That was brilliant, great to see Bob again. Not only for his encyclopaedic knowledge, but to know he is healthy and well. Nice one. The boiler is top notch now.
Was good to see Bob's doing well and in good spirits, I quite appreciate what he has to share as well. Very well-done repair, but I guess that's what one can expect from experience!
Unleaded solder is only the rule for consumer equipment, where poor reliability joints are considered acceptable. Where high reliability is required (medical or military kit), leaded solder is still used and can be bought from professional electronics suppliers.
Perfect! I actualy hawe a bunch of Wilesco stationary macines in various state of repair in front of me (I bought them sheap because they where damaged and i like to fix them up on my free time), i noticed one or twoo need to be re-soldered.
Good to see Bob again. If you want to see an artist in soft soldering then check out "The Luminary Shop" channel. This guy repairs carriage lights professionally.
Very nice job led is band for eny pottable water but you can get satter or leaded glass and other speshle perpice such as roofing ' elic. I think we still have a wide variety of fluxes available I'm shere some are harder to find than others 👍
When you were taking the sight glass off I wondered if Bob might get involved. Good work both of you. Looking forward to seeing it steamed up n running.
Thanks for yet another educating video. Whatching Bob in action was greate. One other fact hit me and that was Your part in the video. You handed ower "the stage" to Bob completely and let him master the show without You interrupting him, or filling in words for him. That impressed on me! Some "big" RU-vidrs almost kill or silence their guests.
Cracking work Bob, super clean job, glad you could help John out, love these small engines, got three myself, also got a small supply of leaded solder from years back. lookin forward to pt 2 on the rebuild of the engine..
I used to use Fluxite for electronics but for this kind of work always Bakers Fluid, and an Ungar soldering iron And as said before proper lead solder is still easy to get.
Been using soft solder for years, it's better and worse than the lead free stuff in different ways. The lead free has a higher melting point and is more fragile when solid but it's relatively safe to work with, nowadays it's everywhere and one of the reasons a lot of modern electronic stuff fails due to fatigue or bad joints. It's a devil to work with but not as toxic as the old stuff. Soft solder has a degree of flexibility thanks to the lead so less prone to cracking, lower melting point too but the downside is the lead, easy to repair and fix stuff but slightly toxic. Lead fumes are quite nasty Great to see Bob's skilled hands at work too. You can sort of replace lead free with leaded but it's hit and miss. Having enough flux is key too all kinds of soldering.
We used to use 'raw spirits' and 'killed spirits' to SOLDER brass and munze metal which was a softer brass alloy, the difference between the two 'spirits' was the 'killed spirits' was that the 'killed spirits' was 'killed' with zinc so that it would not react so heavily with the base metals. Strips of 'galvanised iron' were placed in the 'raw spirits' untill the acid stopped reacting and this was called 'killed spirits'. You could use 'raw spirits' on galvanised product with subsequent soldering using 'killed spirits' but on copper and brass you only use 'killed spirits' ! Paste fluxes were hardly ever used in the production of any of the items we made and we used 60\40 solder most of the time but used 40\60 solder on stainless steel, those proportions are lead\tin in that order. All solder was stamped with the appropriate quantities of lead\tin in them. I ,must add that I completed my 'indentured apprenticeship'almost 50 years ago when the vast amount of the manufacturing work that we did in the Queensland Govt Railways was of a sheet metal variety ? As a Plumber and Drainer it was mandatory to complete the sheet metal side of the apprenticeship as well. I was fortunate that I also had to complete levels of Oxy acetylene and Arc Welding, I was also fortunate that we had some very good Boilermaker Welders who were prepared to help me with Arc Welding ?
When I was taught soldering - in nineteen hundred and frozen to death - we used Phosphoric acid to solder stainless steel and Bakers fluid - killed spirits - on bronze, brass, steel and copper with tinman’s (60/40) solder. Lead was “wiped” using plumber’s solder and tallow as flux. Fluxite paste, that Bob was using, is killed spirits in a gel. Cored solder, for electrical work is resin, so non-corrosive. We, also, used plumbers smudge, carbon black in grease, to stop solder sticking where you don’t want it. When hard soldering with oxy- acetylene we just used soot from the acetylene flame, with no oxy added, to deposit carbon on to the part, then removed the soot where we wanted to solder.
@@houstonceng there used to be other Baker's fluids for different applications. The common one is No3 but i seem to recall there being Nos1 through to 5 but I could be wrong.
Beautiful soldering job. Thanks Bob. One thing you didn't mention: the wiping cloth should be 100% wool. You might substitute 100% cotton, but any fabric with any synthetic fibers such as nylon, polyester, or the like will leave a smear of melted plastic which is almost impossible to remove.
It does not have to be boiled dry to cause this problem on Wilesco. It happens due to a manufacturing fault which was corrected when both pieces are flattened. I have done this repair on a few Wilesco including one unfired roller
@@mikewoods4177 The Romans used to boil spoilt wine in lead lined pots to make it sweet. the sweetness came from the hot acetic acid in the spoilt wine reacting with the lead to form lead acetate, which, in addition to being a soluble and toxic form of lead, is also quite sweet tasting in small doses. Thus your sweet wine would slowly kill you as the lead built up in your body. The lead in paint was mostly lead oxide, added as a white pigment. It too would react with CO2 in the air and moisture, along with heated rooms, to slowly form lead carbonate which is off white, thus the paint yellowing with time. Also it is slightly soluble, especially in a mild acid like your saliva is, and thus also has a slight sweet taste. Downfell of roman life was lead in the wine, and to a lesser extent lead piping, because only the newest piping would have exposed lead surfaces, as the water source for Rome was in the mountains, where the water was very high in dissolved limestone rock, which would gradually precipitate up in the water supply to form a synthetic marble, which was actually prized in Medieval times as a source of very thin large slabs of stone that would have multi metre lengths with no visible joins in it, often used in churches for alters. Strange that Pagan Rome later on was the foundation of the Christian church, which it tolerated in some respect as just being another god worship.
I have a tin of that solder flux from my dad. It has to be about 60 years old. I still use it but its very bad for your skin, especially as John said if you have a cut the acid will sting.
That fella Bob, he's the man, lovely job boys and better still great to Bob, he's done me proud sending me Dial indicates and a few other things all helping me with my channel, talk soon Bob. Regards Alan.
The Leaded solder mustn't be used for New electrical soldering. They wanted to ban the use of leaded solder all together but they couldn't. They had to allow it for repair of older units cos the old and new solders don't mix reliably. That also meant they couldn't ban the sale of it. Maybe the rules might change again with Brexshit. I've had two of those Silverline pencil torches. Both the bloody things leaked from the control valves … Flames Everywhere Not Fun One leaked straight off, the second leaked after a couple of months. I couldn't get it to behave no matter how I cleaned it up Nowadays if I need to flame solder I use a dinky little torch that holds a lighter as a gas tank. Same kind of needle flame, cheap as chips AND safer.
It's not dangerous using water for the test, but it would be if tested with any air in it. If it breaks with water the pressure will drop instantly and will only make a little pop.
With liquid water you won't get a burst. One of the joints might fail but liquid water is incompressible so the pressure would relieve instantly. A burst would occur with the prolonged release of energy from a compressible fluid as it expands.
Fry´s "Fluxite" that Bob´s using in the video is still available, soldersandfluxes.co.uk/. It´s good flux, I´ve been using it for 20 years. They also have lead-bearing solder with up to 70% lead (Sn30Pb70), and standard 60/40. Excellent video, good to see Bob back on the channel.
Good video and great soldering. Can never get my solder to take and just drops off the work into balls. What's your secret? Also what do you keep dipping the solder in before soldering?
You can get 60/40 or 63/37 lead tin from bang good or ali express - You might need to kiss a couple of frogs to sort out the genuine from the counterfeit shite, Don't buy a lifetime supply without getting a 50g sample roll first, genuine Mechanic brand is decent quality and not floor sweepings for a reasonable price - don't expect to pay peanuts for the real thing - decent quality lead costs, even from china (but not quite as much). The flux cleans the site of the join so on a building site you need an aggressive caustic flux for pluming, electrical components tend to be cleaner and as (usually) model making isn't usually done on a building site with greasy fittings you can usually get away with using electrical rosin on this sort of job (just use your loaf). If you do use aggressive flux - CLEAN the site thoroughly or you'll see just how aggressive pluming flux is - it will eat through thin copper in no time if left. Bob's got a nice touch and makes it look easy - using a flame on thin tin with electrical solder tales finesse, be careful not to burn it. Electrical should be used 320 - 380c, above 420c it will burn and turn brittle - go canny and keep the flame moving to avoid hotspots - if you see red you are stuffed.
Hi John. Love the mid-week broadcasts. I have a question about when you solder. It seems that you use a reducing flame. Is this by design, or does it matter?
After the long winded comment I just made I realised that I didn't say well done on the repairs and hope it all works out for you !! Just another example of 'KRAFT Disease' in evidence in the older generation ???
Lead free solder is the worst ! Higher melting point and very hard to visually grade the joint. Electronics built since this took place has become throw away.
