Model Railway Cleaning Fluids: Which one to Choose? 

Interesting video, thanks for the Science Sam! ;) A note about Acetone, as you showed it devours plastics. I think it would be a mistake to use it at all, even on a metal piece because theres always the chance that it doesn't evaporate fully before going back in contact with a plastic part (wheels back in the chassis for example). If used carefully though acetone is amazingly effective for mending plastic. For example if you have a cracked body shell, if you add a very small amount of acetone to the back side of the body shell it will bond it together stronger than glue because it is effectively melting the plastic to form one continuous piece. Not recommended for heavily painted locos however it is good for non painted areas!

Well Done Sam. I always enjoy your videos which are well thought out and edited. Nail polish is mostly Acetone with some lanolin added to take care of your nails. Acetone is also the basis of most plastic glues along with methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). I use MRK to glue kits together as it is superior to Acetone as a glue. These solvents will attack different plastics to a lessor or greater degree. WARNING!!!!!! All these chemicals are dangerous to your health especially your lungs. Even though you only use very small amounts keep the container/bottle closed and use in well ventilated areas. If you need to remove paint from a model especially plastic, I recommend Dettol. Believe it or not it works without damaging plastic. As it an antiseptic and common in many households you may think it is safe, but it is poisonous if ingested so use gloves. Just because it is a common product purchased at the supermarket does not mean it is totally safe. Hope this is of help to all of you especially the newer modelers. Cheers.

Good info, I use IPA too. One tip; I use an artificial chamois for track cleaning: cut it into squares, rub on the rails either soaked with IPA or dry. Cleans very well, and is not abrasive. Amazing how dirty they can get when used on visually clean rails! Some swipes, and even a DCC 0-4-0 runs reliably. I even stuck some on the pads of my Hornby track maintenance car.

A very nice video, Sam. It's nice to see some uniform methodology applied to a variety of products across a range of criteria. As others have mentioned, great production values as well. Thanks for producing and sharing this informative video. P.S: IPA is my go-to track and wheel cleaning fluid, too.

As a petrolhead it´s lighter fluid for me, Sam. You either love the smell or you don´t. Been using it for ages and never had any issues whatsoever. Isoprop kind of makes me recall my dentist´s, which I prefer not to ;) Cheers

Hi Sam, Interesting channel and some cool stuff for an Aussie modelling US railroads! As a modeller of 4o years and a railway signal electrician , I have to say all of those products apart from Track Magic , should not be put anywhere near track! Your track and wheels are nothing more than a switch in a electrical circuit, and as such , any product used must be suitable for that. IPA leaves a residue and also contains water..bad for conductivity ! Above all , your track must be conductive, not clean...a big difference (but both are better of course) . Lighter fluid is scary and nailpolish remover is damaging to plastic ? Best thing I have found is CRC 2-26 , a tiny amount on a rag and the wheels will take it round the track. I use Inoxx , which is similar to CRC and these products ARE made for electrical circuits , which is what our tracks are. IPA will clean , but long term use will cause more problems as it does not help conductivity. Cheers Gregg..

Can I just say... Your channel is amazing, everytime I'm in a bad/unhappy mood I watch your channel and you always put a smile on my face...so please Please PLEASE...keep doing your amazing videos. Keep it up!!!

Incredibly interesting I’ve used acetone/nail cleaning fluid for years and have been very interested in new products over the last 20 years I remember when track magic came out Model rail magazine did a product test in their magazine It pronounced it as the best thing since sliced bread But I wasn’t going to pay the money they expected for it! As it turns out I’m not sure how unbiased their tests were On the other hand your test convinced me to change to IPA in future I liked all the standards you chose to measure Well done 👍

Great comparison video sam and I love your production value as those cute little cups are so awesome.

I recently got all my old Hornby bits and pieces out the attic and went through each piece to clean it, having little to no knowledge of model rail proper cleaning practises here was my approach. -For cleaning track I took cotton balls and dipped them in a water/baking soda mixture and cleaned the track piece by piece, this was to erase oxidisation and generally clean the track, I then finished it off by wiping each piece with microfiber cloth, this was to give the track a smooth wipe down and remove any moisture left after air drying. -As for locomotives and rolling stock I dissembled them following online tutorials and initially used a can of compressed air to blow out large chunks of dust and dirt along with a small sized paint brush (dry, never used), following this I took Q-tips and dipped them in a small bottle of 'Surgical Spirit' - which for intensive purposes has the same/or similar qualities as Isopropyl alcohol and scrubbed the plastics and gearbox externals. I used a drop of Wd40 into the gearbox and inner wheel axles as lubricating oil (perhaps not the best choice, but what I had lying around), and lastly I dunked Q-tips into the surgical spirit and used that to clean the outer wheels for good contact. -Lastly the loco/rolling stock's body, I simply took a Poundland spray bottle and filled it with a small amount of vinegar and the rest water, sprayed each piece of bodywork and scrubbed gently with a purpose bought 'soft' toothbrush. Ran under the cold tap to rinse, then left to air dry. A couple hours work with utensils and products laying around the house, and a clean working order set of Hornby. What a wonderful hobby. :)

I used to use these solvents in large quantities. i.e. 200 litre drums (apart from lighter fluid). OK if you use in very small quantities, but if you use them regularly then take care. According to the Safety Data Sheets for: IPA 99%: Can cause irritation if absorbed through skin. Nail polish remover (Acetone): Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking. I never liked working with acetone. It's stinks and, as you say, melts plastics (including synthetic cloths you might use). Lighter fluid (Naphtha): Brief contact may cause slight irritation. Skin irritation leading to dermatitis may occur upon prolonged or repeated contact. Can be absorbed through skin. Haven't tried IPA. Royal Mail have banned it being sent by them, so if your eBay seller breaks the rules by sending it by RM can they be trusted to be sending you genuine IPA? I use lighter fluid because it's fairly cheap and is readily available. A word of caution. It will remove some types of factory paint finishes in an instant. I have an old Arnold coach with no paint on the roof to show for that little experiment. After 20 years of using these solvents I am occasionally subject to dermatitis on my hands, even though I left the job 20 years ago. The worst one, not mentioned here, is Methylene Chloride (Dichloromethane) found in paint stripper. Breathe that in when it's warm and it will knock you out. Lighter fluid has an added bonus that you can clean your grubby second hand book covers with it. :-)

great video. I use lighter fuel on all my triang locos the dock shunters love it. track magic is also very good.

Hello Sam. Fascinating video, thank you. I have acquired some wagons and the wheels are filthy. And i wondered which was the best cleaning option there was that you used and I've bought some of Amazon. Thank you very much you are a life saver.👍🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

Hi Sam. Love tests with a scientific method. I keep a little ethanol around the house for cleaning of many different objects, so I guess it would be pretty similar to the IPA.

Very interesting as always. And it is a great difference to clean metal parts, painted metal or plastic parts. You are always on the right way if you use for painted metal or plastic parts slightly warm water with a few drops dishwashing liquid (soap). Spirit (alcohol) and petrol (gasoline) are removing the shine of plastic often. That you don't have if you use instead petroleum (paraffin or kerosene).

Really glad I watched this. I have been using Inox for cleaning track though as according to the slight crazy ausi from fishplates who was an electrician says it's all about conductivity. Wondered whether using this to clean wheels on locos might be a good idea as this is where all the conductivity is required. Keep us the good work Sam. cheers, Rick the Bulldog

I use no cleaning fluids for my ever expanding collection. Just good old track cleans and sand paper and a brush haha :D

Excellent comparison and i do agree with your results. I also use a very old Peco track rubber and wipe all track including sleepers down with a moist baby wipe.

So if I was to get a tub of hot soapy water and put my loco body’s in would they not be damaged? Also by hot do you mean Kettle hot or Luke warm tap water?

Great video mate, I found out I little bit of mentholated spirits work well and some time kerosene

Hello Sam, another cleaner that I have used is Wahl Clipper Oil. It works very well and has no vapour.

I've been using lighter fluid for many years, and never had any problems with it. I briefly tried using IPA but stopped using it after I accidentally destroyed some loco lettering while cleaning loco wheels. Remember that IPA is actually used as a paint remover, so using it around painted models/surfaces is always going to be risky.

Greatly appreciate the tips so when I start my hornby/bachmann layout Sam.

The track magic also contains a very small warning about only using it on the rail head. It causes peco set track to go brittle. I can confirm it definitely does cause the sleepers to become very brittle and the chairs break just by touching them.

Based on watching your excellent videos Sam, I've been using Lighter fuel, and found it did an excellent job, however Isopropyl seems a more cost effective material, so may try that for evaluation......Another very useful subject to make a video of....Bob

Some good information here Sam. I personally use WD-40 - not for cleaning track, I just use one of those soft kitchen sponges, and that seems to get a good amount of dirt to come off from the rails. I spray some WD-40 onto the cotton bud, then rub it on the wheels. It's unbelievable the amount of dirt that comes off the wheels - even if they look sparkly clean! Only problem with WD-40 is that you have to be careful about getting it on the plastic bodies of locomotives and rolling stock - a widely debated topic, I know! I have a large can of WD-40 left to use yet, but may try some of these fluids in future! George

Might I suggest Inox or CRC 2-26 for track, they clean the track very well and leaves a protective conducive layer on the track. Maybe give the track a going over with IPA or if you plan on running a loco with traction tyres as the two fluids mentioned earlier don’t work well with traction tyres.

Shout out for a different cleaning fluid is the engine degrease spray (surfactant?) Sold in motorcycle repairs shops.

What would you recommend for cleaning plastic wheels and for traction tyres . I recently bought track magic which appears to leave an almost permanent layer on track , no matter how many times I run a paper towel or my finger over the track I get black deposits. An HST I have with traction tyres struggles for grip now. What’s best for cleaning the traction tyres ?

Hi Sam... Lighter fluid in Australia can be bought in bulk as Shellite from Bunnings at 5 poundsa litre, but you could use Coleman Fuel, its basically the same at 9 Pounds a litre. IPA is very expensive over here.

It's also worth saying here that IPA can be an effective paint and/or lettering remover depending on the finish of the model. Lighter fluid is becoming increasingly rare here in the US.

Hi Sam. What I hear from other railroad modelers is that one shouldn't just evaluate the immediate effectiveness, but also the long term effectiveness. Some fluids are said to attract dirt (IPA) vs. others that don't. Just found your channel, so you might have covered it elsewhere... I am still looking for the best method to clean wheels and tracks that will work best in the long term with least amount of work for me :-)

IPA is useful as a degreaser when cleaning oily or greasy mechanisms. However, it leaves its own residue on the 'cleaned' surface and it is VERY hygroscopic, so it will attract water wherever it goes -- which is not good for most electrical mechanisms. In the USA it is not allowed professionally for cleaning electrical contacts for these reasons, quite apart from the health and safety issues. And of course the rail and wheel surfaces are electrical contacts. For track-cleaning the best material by far is a fluid designed specifically for cleaning electrical contacts, such as CRC switch cleaner or Inox. If you use these on the track, you don't even have to clean your wheels -- they will self-clean on the track, which can be attended to at the next wipe-down. NEVER use a track rubber, since it will seriously abrade your track and create microscopic pits, damaging the profile and collecting even more dirt.

I will be definitely changing from nail polish remover to IPA. As I am building a new model railway in the attic. Thanks Sam for the advice :D

Cardboard. Or the rough side of hardboard. I read some time (years) ago, of the Torquay Model Railway Club using hardboard underslung under coaches. This was achieved using a small piece, about 10mm x 50mm and two small, long, machine screws (possibly 8BA) drilled through the coach underframe and through the hardboard. These are secured by nuts screwed onto the end of the screws. As the coach traverses the track, the drag on the hardboard causes it to take up dirt from the track. The screws are a loose fit and allowed to rise and fall with track differences. The other recommendation is, of course, to change all plastic wheels to metal ones. Cheers. Bob

Hey Sam, I know this is an ancient video, but might I suggest you also try clear vinegar and baking soda in a future video?

What would be a good conductor fluid to keep the electricity flowing on your tracks?

Hi Sam, Have watched your video several times. I have used IPA 99% mostly to clean track and wheels, but recently saw a video about WD-40 contact cleaner being better. I tried a contact cleaner (not WD-40 one) and it did an amazing job. BUT, the down side is it left a oily residue that made the wheels slip. I tried IPA to get it off, but no luck. In the end I had to use my Peco track rubber. I also tried the Dapol track cleaning fluid for their track cleaner coach, this has a similar effect and left an oily residue? I am going to try the WD-40 contact cleaner as is says its quick drying, but this goes to show, not al contact cleaners are the same. Do you use IPA 99% all the time to clean your track and wheels? Keep up the good work 🙂

One big flaw in your analysis … IPA gets things very clean, but as a polar solvent it makes the metal surface develop oxides very quickly in the presence of electricity - so things get dirty again very fast. That’s why electrical contact cleaning professional guides ban IPA as an electrical contact cleaner. You want non-polar solvents as your preferred electrical contact cleaner. Two good non-polar solvents are mineral spirits and yes, Track Magic.

I always come back to this video for some reason or other! It's one of the most useful ones out there! Cheers for that, Sam! 🙌 What do you recommend to clean the actual body of the loco? I've recently received a Hornby loco that, obviously due to the sweltering summer heat, had the glue melt on a couple of the little foam pads they put all over inside the block of ice packaging. So on a couple of places on the body there's a bit of tacky glue residue that looks rather bad. I'm wondering if I should use isopropyl alcohol to clean it off or if you would recommend something else if one is to clean the actual body. Thanks in advance!

Hi Sam.... After a lot of years in the hobby the best cleaner is water with a dash of detergent and meths applied with a wagon equipted with an applicator system followed by a wiper pad arrangement made of kid leather as a wiper off. If your track ever shows a grey residue your track is filthy. Totally clean track provides better electrical and climbing ability on grades and wheels do not 'gum' up because there is no contaminants on 'clean' track. Logical really! If you have been using oils and other such things for track cleaning a sparing application of kerosine will get your track prepared/degreased quicker for my method to be effective. Here endith the lesson! Don W. NZ.

Two things. First, I found your video very educational. For my usage, the IPA would seem to work the best. I then followed it with CRC (tuner cleaner). Works wonders. I've used the tuner cleaner in the past, but never thought about using the IPA. Well done. Second, I was looking for information on the Atlas/Dapol track cleaning car. During my search, I came across a video on the Turbosuager. I believe it is Swiss made. From what I could see, it does one heck of a job. Do you have or know anything about this product? I could see this being a part of my "MOW" train.

Very informative. Excellent stuff. Just one question...HOW many locos are on the shelf??!!!!!!

Very educational video. I love and use IPA on my locos and things🚂

Great video Sam I only tend to clean my track with some fine grit sandpaper to get the really worked in bits off

Thanks for another very interesting video Sam, was going to buy some Track Magic, but don't think I'll bother now! Regarding the nail polish remover, chances are it's the acetone that eats the plastic, have you tried the ones that are acetone free?

How to remove rust from tracks??

MRH Magazine states: "I don't recommend ISO alcohol for cleaning track (or wheels) any longer. The La Mesa club has found track and wheels get dirty with black gunk a lot quicker when cleaned with alcohol so they have banned its use for cleaning wheels or track. Chemists know that non-polar solvents make the best electrical cleaners because they don't encourage new oxidation later as much as polar solvents. Non-polar solvents: - mineral spirits - turpentine - kerosene - toluene (nasty stuff, though) Semi-polar solvent: - ethyl acetate Polar solvents: - isopropyl alcohol - ethyl alcohol - denatured alcohol - acetone - ammonia Better choices for cleaning electrical surfaces are the non-polar solvents or at least a semi-polar like ethyl acetate. If your reaction to this news is: "I've never had a problem with the polar solvents", I challenge you to try cleaning wheels and track with a non-polar solvent instead. You may find things stay cleaner longer! The non-polar solvents reduce micro-racing and oxidation of active electrical surfaces. You who have been in the hobby for a while may remember the "clipper oil keeps your track clean longer" discussion from decades ago. Clipper oil is NON-POLAR. Also, if you check contact cleaners like DeToxIt or CRC-26, you will find they're slightly oily, which means they're also non-polar in nature." Bottom line is odorless mineral spirits followed up by a light application of graphite is now considered the best and lowest maintenance for track cleaning.

Lighter fluid is my choice but I open the window when I clean the wheels because that stuff does STINK. I might try IPA though but the track magic is just WAY too expensive for something that a modeller would get through regularly. That said, the lighter fluid is effective but its best to A remove the bodyshell or B remove the wheels from the locomotive, carriage or wagon :).

Hi Sam, interesting vid as always. Been doing some research on this as I am starting a new layout with new track. Have seen good reports about electrical contact cleaners, which are supposed to be much better than IPA. Some however, leave a conductive residue (good) but it can make the track slippery (not so good if you have an incline), and may affect traction tyres. WD40 fast drying contact cleaner apparently does not leave a residue, and may be better, maybe not. Might be worth looking into.

Thanks Sam now I know witch fluid is the best to use when I clean my models.

I was desperate of finding any track or wheel cleaner I can get my hands on, and of course I got the track magic. All I have to say in this subject is that at least it gets the job done nicely :) Great video idea Sam :D

When I was a youngster in the 1970s, I always used Methylated Spirits for track and wheel cleaning. There's always Turps and White Spirit that you could try. I'm surprised that the IPA wasn't more destructive considering it's an ingredient in Phoenix Precision paint stripper

Great video Sam this was very helpful as my models are starting to get to the point where they need to be cleaned so seeing this was a big help ! By the way is there anywhere I can buy that “Sams Trains” T-shirt ?

I've always used ipa because it's what is usually around. I've always wondered if there might be a better option. After watching this video, I think it best to just keep doing what I've been doing.

I tend to use IPA or Mentholated spirits for cleaning the metal work, and Glasses wipes or similar for plastic work. I also have contact cleaner which I often use when working with the electro-mechanical components like motors, but IPA can also work there, switch cleaner just does a better job of removing oil and grease. Brake cleaner would also work for removing grease I guess.

Nice comparison video Sam. Thanx.

I never commented on your posts before but I found this most useful, I am wondering what was the most effect for cleaning points and preventing frog problems which is the bain of my modelling life

Sam, WD-40 works like a charm. Just use a small amount on a clean piece of an old t shirt. Leaves no lint and dries fairly quickly. God Bless.

Really useful video! But I don't use cleaning fluid alot, I use a track cleaning block. It gets rid of dirt on the tracks and wheels! :D but sometimes I use a fluid for my expensive locomotives (like the polar express and Thomas and friends locos) I also have a block I can place on the tracks and it is just sweeping the dirt of the wheels when they get power from the block. If you're (or someone else!) is interested in what I exactly mean I can make a video about it :D

I got some Green and brown oxidation more known as copper oxidation on my track. Is there any way to get it off or is it best to get new Track??

hi sam what do you think about Methylated spirits because i think it would be good to go into another video like this one, and i find it works really well

I got some tragic magic as a Christmas present and it didn't work for me maybe I did it wrong but the sponge fell apart while trying to use it... I found a small bit of elbow grease and a track rubber cleaned the track so much quicker and easier.

Is regular light machine oil good for gears and connecting rods and bearings on steam locos?

So if I had a beyond repair model that I want to cosmetically redesign to look like a scrap engine, would you recommend dipping the shell into nail polish for a corrosion effect?

IPA depends on the strength. Many will be 60-70%, which means that there is 30% water. The IPA will evaporate leaving water to re-oxidise the metal. There should be less expensive electrical contact cleaners available from electrical suppliers, which should give you the same results as track magic at a lower cost.

Lighter fluid is generally naptha although the term is ambiguous and has been used to describe other petroleum products such as mineral spirits or paint thinner which are totally different. It is generally used in wick type lighters and if you get it on your skin, it usually causes a burning sensation. I suspect the track magic may contain it as well.. It is harmful to breathe and very flammable. And yes, acetone is used in the medical profession to wipe the skin to remove oils before applying electrodes. But it has it hazards as well and is not good to breathe. I tend to use some of the CRC products to clean and lubricate model railroad cars.

Sorry for commenting on an old video but just incase you still read them, do you have any opinions on methlyated spirits/white spirits in lieu of IPA? I am servicing my locos etc and due to the shortened supply of hand sanitiser etc, IPA has become quite expensive. I do have lighter fluid though so I might just use that for now

Very interesting video!! Thanks Sam.

the cleaning fluid I use is Life-Like track cleaner (product number 1415) It varies in effectiveness because most of the time i end up lightly scraping off the dirt. You should do a comparison of types of dry track cleaners/ track cleaning cars and pads

I've used hand sanitizer to clean the wheels on my locos and stock, unfortunately it had the negative effect of removing some of the red paint from the loco wheels so caution is adviced!

hi sam i use goo gone in a cmx track cleaner and i fined it works very well 👍

Isopropanol CAN cause Dermatitis... Basically, can dry your skin out. but otherwise is skin safe. For medical use, it's usually diluted by... 30% water. They do also often use some sort of skin moisturiser in medical purposes to counter the drying out effect, which sometimes gives it a more gel-like consistency.

I probably I will use IPA because I’m gonna service and repairing my Locomotives and you are my biggest fan.

Great video Sam i use IPA and drink Indian Pale Ale :)

good interesting video i will getting some ipa soon then and Sam remember me tell you about my flying Scotsman i got it running good with the ringfield mot or it was to do with power for the locomotive to the tender so i had to make wire because the contacted was rubbish i have ran it for 1/2 year.

Watch a lot of your videos on servicing and model stuff would love to know how you clean and maintain your layout to run so well all the time?

Whenever I need to clean loco wheels, I soak a tiny bit of tissue in good old elbow grease, and jam it between the wheel and the plastic brake shoe, repeat laps of the track until all wheels are clean.

Nice vid. I've tried automatic transmission fluid, the kind rated safe for plastic, and found it fairly effective for cleaning. But it is also lubricating, an effect that takes some time to wear off. It also leaves behind a film that seems to retard dirt accumulation. I'd never use any kind of abrasive as that will just accelerate dirt accumulation.

Hi sam Have you tried using car brake cleaner about 13 pounds for 5 litres and cleans really well

Have you compared white spirit?

Hey Sam I recently bought a used loco (Hornby B12 number 8544) and the wheels are bronze (I think it's dirt), what cleaning fluid would you recommend? thanks Ash

Does this work also for cleaning your model train wheels? (The IPA especially)

I use white spirit it woks ok and good running is assured outside

Im now running my *Hornby P2* and she runs very well. Apart from when she derails on points

I have used nail polish removal because it is readily available, does not smell and will also remove blue tack from carpets. Of course I do not have the quantity of stuff that you have. Never had a problem with it on plastic and I actually tested it on some. Maybe I will try that again.

very good guide, thanks you for it!

One cheap way of cleaning track that I found was to use a simple scouring pad on a washing up sponge. It takes a little elbow grease, but it's quick, cheap and they last forever I wouldn't suggest using it on locos though...

I use a special ratio of dawn dish soap and water 1 part dish soap and 3 parts water Gets the job done

I usually use Track Magic even though it is way expensive. I juts like all the other sponges and pipettes you get with it. :)

I gave just seen another video on this topic which rants on about Isopropyl contains water and thus can affect electrical conductivity on the railhead or wheels. Yes they might be clean but will they conduct electricity correctly?

hi sam you try buying ipa now not cheap due to the currant situation

Great video, very helpful.

You should avoid contact with skin (as well as eyes and breathing the fumes) of Isopropyl too, according to the instructions on mine.

So IPA, lighter fluid, and many others are pretty flammable. If I have a sparky locomotive that needs an intense wheel cleaning, could the cleaning fluid catch fire? A Ghost Rider train is probably not good for its plastic shell and motorized components.

What class of tank engine did you use on your picture. It was a Southern 0-4-0, but I don't know what class it is.

Not all lighter fluids may be the same. I've just had a look at the ingredients on my newest can of lighter fluid (Swan). It says it contains petroleum spirit. I'm sure the main ingredient on my last can was naphtha.

The test was very fair but there is one product you might try and that is GOO GONE, Price may be the only drawback. Thanks and i enjoyed watching your video keep up the good work

Dear Sam I watched your video from a year ago today. I noticed that you didn't address how each chemical would effect the track's ability to conduct electricity over the long run; remember your rails and wheels are part of an electric circuit which could lose their ability to properly conduct the needed electricity if they were cleaned with the wrong thing. Maybe sometime soon you will make another video covering this and include the cleaner that are used to clean electric circuit like inox used in Australia or those used by ham radio operators to clean their coax cable and connectors.

Thanks Sam. Very informative. Keith