im a plasterer i working with sand and concrete mix and sometimes putting mortar lately i do it without because mortar cracks a lot, this is so good work and easy not heavy as i used to
What do you do with wallpaper layers (yes layers) over cracked plaster? Repair or replace? I’ve repaired one room by steaming and scrubbing walls, but wow. Is it worth saving?
Gman, that's fine if you don't agree with my techniques, but it results in a quality product that my clients like. Feel free to post your own video of your superior techniques.
Hi, thanks for your video.i am wondering if you give the modern plaster any sort of protective finish after you are done. i know some people do a protective finish when they add tint into joint compound when they use that as a veneer...and also know that the diamond decorative finish one coat system recommends a protective top coat.
ok, thank you for replying. i love the look of the unpainted plaster so i am wondering if you seal it if you leave it unpainted....i was thinking of tinting the mix and leaving it unpainted but wonder how it will hold up if i dont seal it with anything. thanks,
If you wish to do a n integral color diamond finish, skip the sand. Skip the joint compound. Use a bonder. Add some universal colorant from a paint store into your mix. Seal with Ocon W1 or W2. Or better yet, hire someone who has experience with color plaster finishes. It is tricky when you start adding color. We are running two crews of plasterers doing color finishes right now.
@@endoalley680 I’d like to do this strait on OSB I Up in our shop, but I’m nervous it won’t adhere properly. Do you think it would be fine? Or should I skip the joint compound and use the bonder like you said here? If so, how do I know how much to use in ratio to the other ingredients?
@@TateBugs Repair if necessary and prime the substrate surface. Paint on a bonder. Then apply plaster. OSB is not a suitable substrait for Diamond Finish plaster.
Lummy, a Yank doin' plaster. The irony is that if you skim the face initially you don't need to repair it in future. Even though old horse hair and sand mixes are sometimes a bit loose, many walls over 100 years old are still fine.
I love this! I was looking for a good beginner way to add beautiful texture! Tiling pigment to the mix for a natural colored look rather than painting afterwards?
I just did a patch in an old house that had this plaster texture. I can't get any kind of veneer plaster in my area, nobody has it. I used a bag of Dap plaster of paris mixed with usg all purpose compound. Probably had it too thick but it set so fast the sponge wouldnt touch it. Did that twice, got a new bag of the same plaster, mixed it thinner and it worked. It still set way faster than yours. Water was clean. My question is about the difference in plaster of paris and veneer plaster?
Beginners, beware of the hawk. Practice with this tool and trowel or else you'll end up with more on the floor than walls. Have you ever had a problem with cracking after mixing two different product? Seems like the heat generated by "hot mud" would be a concern.
What is the reasoning why you'd do this over skimming with Easy Sand? I'm also a little hesitant about straight plasters on walls now, due to some latex paints reacting weird/not curing right due to the PH differences, though the walls feel beautiful with real plaster. One similar thing I've personally done/would rather do is use a bonding agent, Structo-Lite base coat, then top with Easy Sand. Then you get the advantage of plaster filling the large area you might need filled/leveling out an area, but the Easy Sand doesn't have the PH issues plaster does with paint. Trowel down the Easy Sand to be 99% OK, then wait and give it the lightest sanding to remove trowel marks. Have you had any paint adhesion issues with mixing all purpose and veneer, though?
I’ve been using this method for about 5 years without paint problems and the guy who taught me it has been doing it for about 25 years with no issues. I agree that a binding agent is a good alternative and have gone that route sometimes too.
Knuckles up. Spread up and over to the right in an L pattern if you at right handed, for the initial spreading. I hate to be a nitpicker, but I saw this guy putting some blue stuff on the baseboard the other day. I think he called it masking tape.
The wall has a ton of bad patches from past damage and we also changed the layout of the room so some walls were removed leaving big holes. We did all the walls so the room could have one cohesive feel.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog This is helpful. My home is all plaster walls and I have become very interested in staying true to using plaster for skim coats and patches. I now have a whole wall down to the wood lathe, had to travel for plastering products. First time for a whole wall, will be doing the closet first. It's good to know of this option.
Nice work Scott! This video is a good representation of what an inexperienced "do it yourselfer" will run into when attempting something like this. I just wish the critical pros would simply SHUT UP about your lack of plastering skill. You are after all getting more on the wall than on yourself or the floor. I think people forget that your are sharing "tricks of the trade" to assist homeowners in performing a craft themselves .. and the results, although not perfect, are very good .. and a sense of accomplishment earned. I admire that your willing to put yourself in front of everybody and show them how to apply these materials. A bit unnerving, even for a pro! As you probably know, this "Modern Plaster" formula goes against all the warnings manufacturers print on their containers. Do not mix different materials together! In this case, it may be because it works so well and they cannot profit off it. Also, it does not enable them to warrant or guarantee the product once it's been altered. So what!!? It works fine and is easier for non-professionals to apply than using fast setting veneer plaster products. By the way, your plastering technique is pretty damn good for someone who doesn't do it on a daily basis!!
Hi, have you done a video on prepping the plaster and joint compound mix? It seems like you mentioned one, but I haven't found it, and I feel like the video really helps to round out the explanation from your website... Thanks!
Wow. There are a bunch of asses on here commenting. Thanks for posting. I'm not a pro and very much appreciated this video. Would this mix for brocade walls I'm trying to cover? I wonder if this mix is more runny than I need to cover that?
Sand cement and hydrated lime with a tiny drop of waterproofer at a 5:1:1 ratio of the dry ingredients. Mix to a workable consistency. Apply, straighten, float and finish with a sponge
@@TheCraftsmanBlog The plaster snobs==Its so true, I started doing plaster and stucco , starting in my basement and , yes it takes some practice, but it's not that difficult. So funny, the ego's As I get better, I can move to the upstairs. I like it, intuitive, everything gets better with experience , so what? Same with plumbing and electrical -I've been learning to do it all as a 63 y.o woman, I laugh when I think of all the years thinking I needed a pro. I would still hire one if I could afford it since I have plenty of other things to do. Love the education. Thanks for the video
How do you get it to set? ! Mixed it exactly as you say.Half each,clean water.....put it on 7 a.m. and twelve hours later it isn't curing, just drying out in some and chalky in others. looks both dark grey and white. Wall is clean, primed,sealed.dry prior to this mix. Any clues? Are you spiking it? BTW I have over 40 years at it and never thought to try this until I saw this nicely-done video. Is that graded silica/ Diamond finish Basecoat ?
Interesting. When mixed mine sets too quickly -- the bucket of modern plaster (50% premixed regular drywall compound and 50% Diamond Veneer plaster) dries in about 30 minutes making it impossible to use. I would love the slow set you are getting. It dries so quickly I don't get a good chance to do an effective knockdown. I can only do small areas at one time.
I usually mix my plaster very thin and then add the premixed joint compound (it has to be the premixed not the setting type). I usually get 45-80 minutes depending on the weather.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thanks. That's what I am doing. I also live in the Southwest where it is pretty dry. I'll try going a little thinner on my plaster mixing.
This is not plaster FYI! It’s a made up concoction and he has no business calling it plaster and no guarantee that it works. Check the product data online people! Joint compound does not set! It dries and if it gets wet it will emulsify back to its original state. If mixed with a true setting plaster finish like diamond finish you will have hot spots and adding joint compound to diamond finish will make the finish even weaker than what its intended to be. My suggestion is apply a bonding agent to the walls then use diamond base coat as the 1st layer, let that set then apply the diamond finish using plaster techniques. Done! Also, Trying to sand finish like this is also sloppy and more difficult to achieve a uniform texture. There’s no suction behind the finish that aids while floating. In the video he’s just pushing sloppy material back and forth. I’m a real plaster 40 years and I’m just helping others. The young man has a lot heart and means well but does not have the knowledge of real plastering materials. Diamond finish is a wonderful product but it’s also intended for professionals. For this application I wouldn’t use any of those. Still today we use lime and gauging plaster for our finish just like over 100 years ago. If it works why change now? Good luck everyone!
M.A. Lath&Plaster never claimed to be a master plasterer. The little bit of plaster work we do is to match missing walls and textures and for that this works pretty well. Always looking to learn more when I can.
Do you realize that you are mixing a drying type (joint compound) with a setting type (veneer plaster)? Two separate materials for two different applications. If you have experience with taping mud you'll be able to learn how to apply veneer systems. Takes some practice but it's doable - I switched to veneer after 17+ years of doing taping mud. Cheers,
Building Brian the plasterer I learned it from had been doing it for close to 30 years with great success. It may not make sense to you but it does work and I feel comfortable using it when it is a good fit for the job.
You haven't explained why you're mixing different products. If you're trying to control set time, retarders or accelerators are added to veneer mixes. If you need texture sand is mixed in and floated with a sponge. I'm not here to argue. There's enough variables in a construction project without using made up concoctions. Knowing why and where to use a product is just as important as knowing how to apply them.
Brian Dennis Cinski I go into more of the details on my website post that this video is a part of. Basically the addition of JC gives the plaster much better adhesion and eliminates the need for a bonding agent. It also allows application onto a variety of other substrates that are not typically suitable for straight veneer plaster. Rarely is there a surface I cannot apply this onto and yet it still cures and is workable in the same way as veneer plaster.
You should have a look at the English guys that put up videos of skimming , it's similar to what you're doing but the technique is a lot faster and smoother operation , I'm in Ireland and our techniques are the same as the British , I'm restoring an old cottage for an American couple that bought it over here and the guy is a builder over in the states , he is amazed every day at how much ground we cover when plastering , I think the American ways are much more time consuming
+karl martin it may be slower over here but more than likely it's just because I'm not the best plasterer (as evidenced in the video). I can get the job done but the pros like yourself put me to shame!
The Craftsman Blog I'm not criticising your work , you do really nice work and I always liked the diversity of American plaster , you get 2 choices over here , skim it or sand and cement mix , whereas in America there's a lot of choice , keep up the good work , if you picked up a littler more speed you'd be top class 👌
@@TheCraftsmanBlog exactly what Karl here said ,im a UK plasterer and although I have to say from what ive seen around the world is as far skim coats go for speed and quality us Brits are very good but for versitility of effects and products
Your trowel hand is the wrong way around for most of your laying on work.. Its fine for cutting it back though. And your technique for taking the mud off your hawk is average. And your polishing with a dirty trowel bro
Another example of people totally ignoring or having no knowledge of plaster products, and/or in this case, the proper industry specified bonding agents needed to provide the customer with a long lasting "resurfaced" finish. See this all the time, sell them what you kinda know how to apply, mix up your "own recipe" of various materials, regardless of industry specs, get the check and hope it stays on the wall until the check clears. "Joint compound mixed with plaster makes it stick " you have a patent on this? Would you let your mechanic install Ford parts on your Chevy if they kinda fit or your plumber to use just what he had left over in his truck that kinda fit. There are lots of great products out there just take some time and acquaint yourself with them and offer your clients a proven application system.
Karl, I’ve used bonding agents before so I’m not unfamiliar, but I’ve also seen this technique used with good results for 30+ years. It may not be an industry standard but where do you think those standards came from and were improved upon? They were made by people experimenting and failing and succeeding and I’m not afraid of either. Stick with what you know if you don’t like this.
