I love old houses and working with my hands, and I can teach you to do both. You'll find lots of videos teaching you how to do the old school techniques to fix up these old, historic buildings and bring them back to their former glory!
As a preservation contractor by day I'm working knee deep in old windows, plaster, wood flooring, and all the other joys (pains) of old buildings.
Check out my store to find all the tools and supplies you need to restore your old home: thecraftsmanstore.com
Okay, when you started cutting the shutters I was so confused HOW you were going to install them, had me on my toes. But on a serious note, I have vinyl shutters and I removed them but now my house looks bare…. Is there a shutter alternatives for houses with vinyl siding?!
not everybody have a top plate. my roof is on top of another flat roof carport. the posts isn't even anchor down into concrete and its rely on gravity. the beams isn't even anchor in another but there for support of cross breams. and its from 60's and went through countless of storms and hurricanes. then all the sudden new regulation says old houses needed this and that. and most old home in FL roof pitch is 2-4/12. while the pitch in this dude video is like 12/12 which is high and have a lot of attic space and access vs others who have none or have to remove everything on top of the roof to get to it. so its not just "easy installation to save money"
Something like a screw extractor would work much better in a fixed position in a drill press. The added torque to drive the biting connection isn't really conducive to a hand operation as you'll be prying out the locking bite without a static vector of leverage. Are they used in the way you showed in this video, hammering in place and...yea packaging says so. If you're having to use this, try to find a tap n die handle for a more even distribution of force, the packaging does you a bit of disservice. Pilot the hole, skip the hammer, and bear down on it with the tap handle. This of course if you don't have access to a low-gear on a fixed mandrel.
Great video, Scott! So glad I can build storm widnows without any joinery tools and I love the oil-cleanup tip (and accompanying videos)! Do you have any special tricks or advice on installing the windows?
If you use painters tape at just at the nailing locations and nail thru the tape and then apply the painters putty you avoid all the smudges on the paint.
Good stuff; need a test with primer/paint…. I’ve landed on minwax wood filler to patch holes on deck from knots in wood; left on deck for 4 years and has held up shockingly.
Super helpful! needed to run a line into my house and didn't want to have to drill though my foundation. My basement has a small window. So hopefully I'll be able to make a small hole in the side to let the line though.
This helps so much! We just bought a 1400 sq foot house (1890) it has so much character but the house is lightly leans to one side because of settling over time. But also the porch is the same is yours. And it needs to be replaced and fixed. I’m worried if I start digging in I will run into problems I won’t be able to fix myself lol.
Thank you. I have watched so many videos with numerous tricks. None have worked until watching this video. For me a bit of lubricant and the hammer method did the trick after 3 days of trying to get a stuck, stripped, acient screw out of an irreplaceable cupbaord door.
Great tips and technic. My house was built in 1910 and I have been glazing the windows here for a number of years... Finally learned a couple of great technics that will improve my finished product!
I'm currently working on my attic. I had vermiculite in there. For the safety of my family and their long term health I got it removed. Since then, I have been going up there weekly air sealing, insulating pipes, adding baffles and metal mesh to gable vents to keep out squirrels. Next I have to build up hatch and blow in the cellulose. Got 60 bags stored in my garage right now and have machine reserved for later this week. It's honestly so much work I want to puke. Some days after getting down from there i do puke. But I know in the end it'll be worth it cause I actually care about the project and what it adds to the house.
I feel like I’m looking at my same porch (1906) with the same heart pine. Not sure if the bora care will prevent the same thing from happening b/c the part of the porch that doesn’t get direct sun or exposure to moisture does just fine. The T&G just can’t handle the expansion & contraction of sun & water. I feel like the only answer is to use an awning off the porch facade or to use a substrate more expansion/contraction tolerance such as Trex. Looks so fantastic when fresh and new..then the battle eventually repeats itself!!
Firefighter here: in my 40+ year career as a firefighter I have responded on several hundred attic fires. All of them were cellulose insulation. Most were smoldering fires that may burn for days before the heat and embers reach wood framing and then once it reaches air the flames appear and the open flame fire is produced. I’ve never seen this happen with fiberglass insulation..
Not doubting you here but the packaging says sound thermal and fire protection.... Not sure if the stuff they are selling now is the same as what you experienced or if they are just false advertising..:.. I'm fixing to do this in my house because the attic is horrible
@@joshyingling flame resistant. It doesn’t support open flame but it does burn like a cigarette. The thermal insulation value is superior to fiberglass but you just have to understand its limitations. Also a comparison is a book. A book is hard to burn but open it up or remove the pages 1 by 1. And they burn easily. It’s all still paper with two distinctly different burning characteristics.
Hello, Im trying to fix my leaky kitchen faucet. My allen wrench fits perfectly but i can't turn the screw, it stuck. Help, I i appreciate your assistance. Im determined to do this myself. Thank you.
