Very good video. Very thorough and detailed. The 3v nemak block imo is stronger than the teksid. It was made with more aluminum in structure points than the teksid was. And it has more support girdles in the casting. Along with billet main caps like the 5.4 aluminum block they are extremely similar.
Done a few push rod ford engines in the past. Currently have a 4.6 2V. Going to be building it this coming winter. Little hesitant having never done a OHC engine before. Great video. Very well done. Thank you!
@@icebox829 Its hard to say without knowing your background and ability level…depends on a lot of things. I’d say look for books in building whatever motor you’re wanting to build.
Thanks, man! I try not to go overboard with details as it's usually just very helpful to watch someone do something. So, if you have questions about specifics once you get into it, don't hesitate to reach out. Happy to help. Good luck!
Fantastic dude! Looking to build my 3v block with forged pistons for a single turbo which I currently have on the stock block and it's.. sketchy to say the least. Thanks for the help!
Nice! Depending on how much boost you're running you can get away with that for a while, as you've discovered. Lots of mod motors run boost on stock internals and they hold up with a good tune. Good luck on your build and thanks for watching! Don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything.
@@BradfordsGarage Hey here's a dumb question for you, when you blueprinted your mains you did a full torque sequence on TTY bolts. Are you concerned with torqueing the TTY bolts twice?
@@17456spartan That was something I had to look deeper into, myself, and basically go on the recommendations of others. I didn't use my new bolts to check main clearances, but the old set. From what I understand, the bolts will still tighten down enough to give accurate readings, you just wouldn't want them back in service (though, I did find a handful of guys who reuse them a couple times, go figure.).
Man am i glad i found this channel! Doing my first rebuild soon but its a bit different. Got a NPI iron block I'm putting 3v heads on. Gonna be trying my best to get 350whp out of it NA in my 03 Gt.
Installing a new clutch and flywheel friction disc, i never got all the black off! i went through a whole can of brake clean and still got some black on my rag. So the black is just metal dust? You make it look so easy. come build my 3v for me.
Hell yea. These cross bolted mains are very durable. The only bummer is that I dropped a valve and have to rebuild again, and now have to buy new bolts, again. Had I done the ARP stuff I wouldn't be buying bolts. I will upgrade this time.
Is there another video in this series?? I have an 07 5.4l3v that I have out of my truck and currently in the tear down phase of a planned rebuild (nothing wild cause it is a daily driving farm truck) and this series of videos has been absolutely phenomenal, would love to see you go through the math of many of the things you have done. Thanks!!
In my experience, it is not necessary. Definitely when honing cylinders because you want the cylinder to distort to 'running condition' under bolt clamping pressure, so when you bolt your heads on the cylinder returns to it's as-honed state and will be as round as possible. But my thought on using it for ring filing is that whether the cylinder bore is round or slightly oval when fitting rings the circumference is the same and the gap should remain consistent as the cylinder changes shape. We're usually talking very slight differences in 'out-of-roundness' with/without a torque plate. If you were really worried about it or someone else has a compelling argument for using them, you could give it a try and see what the results are. Or file some rings without it, put the torque plate on and check the gap to see what difference it makes. Which is admittedly something I've never done. Maybe I will on the next one. Thanks for the comment. 🍻
Yooo! I see you are from my parts of town ( White lake area ) I'd love to check this car out sometime. I've been kicking around the idea of 3V swapping my New edge and would love to see a in-depth view of what I would be in for.
Hi. The secret in the Coyote is the cyllinder heads. If you can replicate or get close to the flow numbers on the intake side from .200 to .600" you will be fine. The single large exhaust port will flow enough.
Yea! I did port the heads and running Comp 127500 cams. Didn't get them on a flow bench, so I have no idea what they flow. Haven't gotten a chance to dyno it again with the FRPP manifold on it, but it made 352whp (so...like 415 flywheel), about the same as a gen 1 coyote with the stock intake manifold. Should be around 375 now.
@@dennisrobinson8008 I don't. He kept saying he'd email it to me but never did. I figured since I had to go back to have him clean up the idle and dyno it again with the new intake I wouldn't keep bothering him, haha. I think I took a picture of the dyno screen and those are on my instagram somewhere- @bradfords_garage
Thanks man! The Mustang's were. You can find 3V 4.6's in Explorer's and trucks, which are mostly cast iron. But there are some Explorers, can't think of the year range off the top of my head, that do have aluminum blocks.
These mahle flat top pistons I tried looking them up and all I've seen is that they fit 2v and 4v are they the same fitment for the 3v? Sorry for the stupid question
Hey, thanks for the comment and not a dumb question at all. There are pistons specifically for the 3V that have a fly cut relief for the exhaust valve. I assume that with some camshafts you may need those pistons. With the cams I used on a 102 crank centerline I had a ton of room when I checked PTV clearance. Glad to help in any way that I can, though, if you have more questions. Feel free to shoot me an email. The part number for the pistons I used is 930256272.
@@BradfordsGarage Thank you for the really good info. If I could pester you some more The 3v 4.6 I have is in my 2010 f150 I'm wanting to port the heads based off your videos here, but I also want to run it on e85. I your experience and or your opinion do you believe its possible to push in excess of 350-400 crank hp or am I dreaming do you think?
@@2angetsU32 Hey Kent. Not unreasonable at all, especially on e85. This engine made 352 rwhp with the stock intake manifold, which by the 85% rule, that's like ~415 crank. It should make around 375 wheel with the FRPP intake and Accufab TB on it now. I just haven't been able to dyno it again. And it actually dropped a valve a couple weeks ago. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't have gone to so much trouble to port the heads and definitely wouldn't run oversized valves with stock (or even .020" over) bore size. The oversize valves are just too shrouded and theres not much to gain there. I'm going to do another set of heads for the new engine and make another video covering what all I plan to do to these heads- which is give them a good valve job, keep the throat ratio around 89% and just clean/blend the 'bowl area' on the intake side- if you could even call it that. The intake ports are such a straight shot to the back to the valve there isn't much of a 'bowl'. On the exhaust side, I'd open up the bowl on the long turn side like I did on these and smooth the short turn side and the corners. Won't touch the floor, and I won't be enlarging the ports at all aside from what little bit occurs consequently of the blending/shaping. Good luck on your build and don't be afraid to ask more questions if you have them.
@@BradfordsGarage That all actually sounds great, besides the dropping of the valve I'm sorry to hear that. I meant to ask though was your compression ratio altered when you put in the flat top pistons? I would assume it went up by a bit
@@2angetsU32 Oh, yea. The flat tops increase CR by a bit. Since the chamber was altered in my heads and I used aftermarket valves, I don't really know what the difference would be, but I believe the stock pistons are a 9cc dish.
Let's say you have a 100% perfectly balanced crank (by itself) and you have 100% accurately measured and equal weight pistons/rods/wrist-pin/c-clip/etc... then my theory is that you should not need the crank balanced again with the whole assembly. My reasoning is that the crank has 4 lobes, spaced at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, so if you're adding equal weight to each of those, the overall balanced shouldn't change. Am I right?
Not really. The crankshaft isn't balanced on it's own. It's balanced for the weight of the reciprocating assembly. The machine shop uses your reciprocating assembly to determine 'bob weight'. Weight is added or removed from your crankshaft counterbalance lobes to create a balanced complete assembly. My new reciprocating assembly (piston, pin, clips, rod, rings, bearings) was lighter than the OEM, so they drilled some weight out of my crankshaft lobes.
I bought these bolts from ModMax- www.modmaxracing.com/product-p/90625030.htm The side bolts are not TTY, so you can reuse them, but I ended up buying new ones from the Ford dealer, anyway. Good luck and thanks for checking out the video!
Thats great. What are you looking for help with? I can answer questions and point you in the right direction but I"m not in the position to take on an engine build if that's what you're asking for.
Hi. Thanks for posting this info. and your race videos. I also have a 3v swapped New Edge, I'd love to trade war stories and share knowledge. My channel is my username, its kind of weak but I hope to get some driving vids now that my car is registered and street legal. Let me know if you're open to emails. Thanks!
