Thank you for watching! Website article and plans: jerswoodshop.com/cabinet-feet/ Build video for cabinets & drawers: • Modular workshop cabin... Plans for cabinets & drawers: www.etsy.com/Jerswoodshop/lis... Patreon: / jerschmidt
Every time you tell us more about these cabinets the more impressive they become. The thinking about the feet height and the bolt holes and the drawer rails is so clever!
Can't get enough of this series. Bought the plans, just waiting for the shop to warm up. This should get my shop in organized fashion, FINALLY. Thanks Jer!
New viewer and subscriber to your channel. The amount of thought you've put into this system blows me away. Next time I hit up the lumber yard I will definitely be picking up a few extra sheets of Baltic Birch and also buying your plans. Incredible work!
He is a madman selling his plan for this cabinet for only $12... I recently discovered his channel and subscribed because the cabinet just sold my soul away 😆. I love the fact that it's all modular, and as a guy who loves modular stuff (modular toys, model kits, tools), it was a no-brainer to buy his plan the moment I saw it
I have a work table that I've really been wanting to make some leveling feet for , but because of the legs I havent been sure how I want to go about making them. This gave me a pretty good idea how I want to make my own !
It’s an acknowledgment of not just this video, but an accumulation of all his content. Sometimes it’s nice to give people compliments and acknowledge their time and energy into creating content at such detail while taking the viewers along for the ride. You make content Queef? (Damn that autocorrect). Or are you just into the fine art of comment trolling? Friends of which are a dime a dozen.
@@Qwiv go through this guy's back catalog. He's really done some great problem solving and designs and starting at quite a young age. As an engineer I've always been pretty impressed and enjoyed his stuff. However.... I might not be the best judge considering I can barely dress myself.... But I do work with electronics, photonics, and metrology equipment everyday and haven't had any embarrassing Us in quite a while. Must be a few weeks now.
I really like the approach of starting super simple with the wedge. I’ve seen all kinds of way-too-complicated / unstable solutions to the mobile-cart-immobilization problem. Yeah, the wedge doesn’t *look* as well planned as a complicated solution, but it actually *is*.
Okay, road to one million subs. Make a few knives and another pen. Make a French cleat or variation of tool wall. Uhh.. probably make soup video once because why not. French onion? Then do a really snazzy workbench and you got it.
Very talented engineering, and proficient with wood and metal working tools. Killer instructions are more professional than actual products info on items in the stores. Awesome, man !
Hi Jer, great to see you making content again, fantastic system as always......I was watching this video and it reminded me of another RU-vidr (can't for the life of me remember who....think he was fitting wooden knobs to machine screws and nuts - could be Sean Kamki "Hex Chisel, Hex Hole, Removable Hex Nut Handle") but they modified a coupling nut into a chisel to cut form fitted nut recess in timber....They used a large drill bit (larger than the corner dimension of the nut - Sean used a step drill and a dremel) to cut a concave dish out of one end the the nut this forms a sharp bevel to outside face of the nut which can be now used as a hexagon chisel (hardened/tempered with a gas torch). just have to drill the spanner sized hole in the receiving timber then hammer the modified chisel coupling bolt (add a decent bolt and lock nut for ease of use and retrieval) to remove the minimal material left ....... and presto.......you have a perfectly sized nut shaped hole for your nut to fit with minimal glue up required and if at all. Just though it might be a good technique to employ, cheers
Wow, I was feeling super-bummed that an evil gnome hath barricaded my workshop (which inexplicably has glass walls) these past two years, but stumbled upon my top three favourite Jer Videos (the concrete workbench, the 45 drawers, and one of the lumber storage projects from back in the day) this morn and felt compelled to check if you’d released any videos of late; was so delighted that I began to weep, lol. I pray things are well with you and yours and can’t wait to watch all the videos I’ve missed. Brightest of blessings to you from Sally B. 🙏
I really like all the builds you’ve done. The amont of ingeniering is impressive, all the details have a purpose altough in the build or the method of building it. Sorry for my english i’m rusty 😢
So many things to build as I setup my new shop. I'm thinking that these cabinets are going to be a central part of the setup, as they tick most of my requirements and the timing of this design release was just about perfect.
2:39 a super easy "riser" that you could make that would leave the foot and wheel as they are (with a very small modification) would be to glue a triangular prism on the inner corner of the foot and then drill a hole and then thread it so that a rod can go through at an angle. Either placing a coin on the floor or giving the threaded rod a welded foot, would then allow a person, from the front via a slot in the threaded rod, to lift the two forward feet off the ground and thus immobilize the cabinet. Rear ones don't need that, tbh. I never use my rear wheel locks.
Very well done. Always in search of the “perfect” caster/leveling feet. Only issue I see with the wedge is movement across floors with expansion cracks, cords or even pieces of debris.
Dear Jer, I enjoyed your video very much. Your cabinets are very elegant. Don't forget to send a copy of the plans to The Smithsonian. Best wishes, John
I’m interested in that type of caster. Seems well-suited for this, just need a wood block with to adapt the hole pattern and bring it to the right height.
At first I thought it was me going crazy, so I rewatch the video to be sure. You actually did go back-and-forth between blonde and red hair five or six times...LOL
What about combining the leveling with the caster feet: replacing the leveling nut for a kind of setting wheel big enough to dial in from aside . So there is no need to wedge - just turn the wheel.
around 5:57 when creating the blocks for the feet i was wondering why you didn't make them full length to mate on the flat surface of the mounting square the 2 small glue surfaces doesnt look like it would be able to hold all that much weight it might block one of the 4 mounting holes but you could keep a captive bolt in it or trim the end of the block so you could still get at the bolt hole great job as always!
Baltic birch plywood is a lot stronger than your run of the mill big box store plywood. Matthias Wandel did a series of videos comparing the strength of different plywood's and types of wood which is very informative.
I believe it’s strong enough as is. Wood glue and hardwood is surprisingly strong. But yeah the other option would be slimming it down to clear the bolt (and a socket & ratchet) near the top. I didn’t want to do a captive bolt because then I can’t slide a foot under an existing cabinet, unless I jack the cabinet up to clear that bolt.
Just saw you cutting out the plywood squares for the feet... Please seriously consider using a jig or other safety device when working with smaller items close to the blade, all it takes is a couple of milliseconds for a terrible injury to occur (maybe someone else already commented on this, I haven't read any of the comments yet and this is the second video of yours that I'm watching, the first was the recent one on attaching nuts inside of a steel tube - good tip and video, BTW)
Great work Jer! I was wondering how you stabilize the rollers to prevent the cabinets from moving around? Can they be made to be retractable? Just curious.....
Thanks! In my experience, most locking casters don’t lock up very solidly, i.e. they can still wiggle a little. Using the wedges makes the cabinet more solid.
Really clean design, looks fantastic. Do you think a threaded insert or tee nut would work for these? Watching you install them, you wouldn't have to hold a washer and nut from below, and it could let you bolt into all 4 holes? Just a thought, again, this is amazing and will be part of my build when I move into a new shop.
I experimented with threaded inserts and T-nuts on my prototypes. But they’re more expensive than bolts & nuts, and that’s really adds up when you have a dozen cabinet modules & feet. And I liked the idea of using the same hardware for everything on this system.
Wonderful work, Jer! As you did the "Matthias Table Test", would it not be a good idea to incorporate Matthias' preference for templates as well? Seems to be a lot of marking you did for the holes. I assume anyone building these cabinets will build more than 1 or 2. jm2c
So I’m curious, why use the couplers as the thread inserts for the leveling feet instead of the hammer-in tee nuts? I only ask because I just used the tee nuts on my bench with some carriage bolts. The level of detail you put into this is amazing!
I used tee nuts on my first prototype, and while it didn’t ever actually cause a problem, I felt that they weren’t as solid side-to-side as I wanted. Might have been ok if I epoxied them in.
Quick question. The only thing holding the leveling feet is the sheer strength of the glue on that little piece you set them in. Have you run into any issues, or tested the load on that? Curious if someone built a 2-cabinet high, 4 wide platform, and filled it up with a lot of weight if that glue would hold all that up. Cheers.
Jer, do have diagrams for us to create our own feet or for your cabinets? I have been searching RU-vid for over two years for people who clearly know what they are doing, and you are one person I have faith in. You have made cabinets with amazing drawers and I would like to get the diagrams or plans from you. Please let me know. Thank you. My name is Peter
Have you found any suitable alternatives to baltic birch? The material for just one cabinet is close to $150 right now but it would have been only $50 based on pricing in the before times. Have you tried appleply or europly, both of which are supposed to be domestically sourced (US)?
Watching your OCD on those legs gives me an odd feeling, but I can't nit watch, ha ha. Trimming the heights, yes, virtually essential. Trimming the corners rather than near enough, OCD for sure :-) beautiful work as always. PS, you could index those castors to the outside on both axes for ultimate stability. But I know why you don't even entertain it on camera: it's a system not a single cabinet and that would preclude side by side use.
Hey Jer, did you try combining the two versions? To put the leveling foot on the caster foot so you can roll it when you need to but lock it with the leveling feet rather than the wedge. I’m guessing the caster height makes this not a good option. But thought I’d ask
I mostly just didn’t want to be crawling around on the floor reaching under cabinets with a wrench to lower the feet. Tapping the wedge in is so much faster.
Does the hole pattern work between the modules? So it would use 2 bolts from 1 and 2 bolts from the other and support the middle seam? Also these are great Jer, i love modular designs and plan on buying your plans to support this project
@@Jer_Schmidt so that means in the previous video where you put 4 boxes as coffee table in your office, you can attach 1 footing exactly at the center.
Baltic birch prices are crazy right now, so I don’t expect these numbers to be relevant in the future. But based on local (PNW) prices right now, it’s around $90 for one cabinet and around $60 for four drawers (enough to fill one cabinet).
Do I understand correctly that the little corner blocks through which the tall nuts support the riser bolt are holding up the total load by just a glued connection to the sides? It seems I would consider making those corner block as tall as the inside corner so that there is a solid build from riser bolt to the base of the cabinet… would there be a reason not to that? (Hopefully I made myself a little bit clear on what I mean here 😅)
If the corner block was full height, it would block access to the bolt hole in that corner (for mounting to the cabinet). It would be possible to shape it with a thin part that would transfer that load but stay out of the way of the hole, but in my experience, wood glue is easily strong enough for this, so I figure it’s not worth the work.
