Monarch 10EE Drive Retrofit 3: Building out the Electrical Component Panel 

He's right. And been an electrician for 40 years.

I have built and repaired audio equipment for a very long time, and even only driven by vibration from speakers, these sorts of arrangements would rub out in a few years. I give it hours when attached to a running electric motor. You absolutely need grommets and maybe some sort of plastic pass-through, because a rubber grommet will rub through, too. I also strongly suggest some diagonal braces on the angle-iron uprights, and isolation grommets between the uprights and the panel to isolate the rest of the electronics from high-frequency vibration. You cannot overdo stuff like this, heat and vibration are the enemies, and this application is nearly a worst case.

Long time EE here: totally agree you need grommets! They make flexible grommet material you can wrap in the hole and cut to length. They are soft plastic and don't wear the wiring much at all. Looking at all the devices on that panel, I also think you need bigger holes (or more holes).

out of curiosity (asking for a.. friend). if you put a heat shrink over the wire where it passes through is that enough added protection?

@@nelen_co not at all.

With vibrations in mind, I am also wondering if DIN-Rails are actually meant to be mounted vertically. I learned to use them only horizontally and have so far always seen them that way either. Mounting them sideways I don´t think some of the components are actually mounted securely as they can slide down "sideways".

when I bult cabinets for electrical controlls, we used some plastic rails with sort of combs on the side and a cap to close them. you could get a wire out wherever you needed and had all wires nice and protected in the channel.

I've seen those. They make for a nice clean cabinet.

How much heat does a Parker DC drive put out? The manufacturer guidance on cooling should be followed.

@@michael931 I have no idea what temp that drive puts out but it has a 32 -104 degree operating temperature. With it being in a enclosure and you don’t have any fans or vents it will easily surpass that operating temp. A lot of electronic components don’t specify what should or shouldn’t be in your specific control panel. It’s up to the electrical designer to figure out what should or shouldn’t be in the panel.

The original system used tube thyratrons and it didn't need a fan. It's not a sealed enclosure, lots of things spinning around probably generating the equivalent turbulence of fans, and it's a huge chunk of cast iron that can act as a heat sink. Heat being generated by the drive means inefficiency, and I would hope it's at least as efficient as the 70 year old technology was. My guess is that $2000 drive also has it's own thermal monitoring system and will shut down if necessary.

The parker 514c drive loss are 50 watts at full load. I am assuming that this drive will not work at full load all the time. So 50 watts for the heat load do not require any fan to cool.

@@tracteurfan4734 So why not just put in a fan? They’re cheap, reliable, draw little power and solve the cooling question. Why take a chance on an expensive machine when the solution is so obvious?

While the chamfer will protect the grommets the grommets are needed for long-term running of the machine.

Definitely add grommets and cooling.

@@frandoyle5608 Yes.Cooling will greatly extend the life of the electronics

Wago work also.

Either that or you get to drag out all your long aircraft drill bits so you can drill the holes you forgot about around what you've already mounted, LOL.

The Parker 514C can provide the Field voltage. I do not yet understand varying the Field Voltage via a different drive. If the field from the Parker 514C is lost the drive should fault out and shut down. Typically Losing the field when the motor is unloaded results in the motor running away and spinning apart That would be bad Losing the field with a load on the motor typically drags the motor to a stop. A DC motor at rest that has only armature voltage applied will growl and buzz angrily and make a LOT of heat (If that happens you should remove power ASAP) But again, this drive will fault out and shut down if it loses the field.

@@scotte2815 yes but there is also the KB drive.

Doubtful he will use ferrules. Not too common in the US.

The good old German „Hutschiene“ ;)

Wago end blocks won't slip. Don't know which ones he is using. Some slip and some don't.

Sounds almost like cheating. For me it was all manual measuring, marking and drilling. Although we for whatever reason used way thinner sheetmetal (that backpanel actually came with the cabinet) and eiser used nuts and bolts, or in some really desperate cases, self tapping screws (never liked those, removing once and it was like stripped and they had issues with vibrations as well).

@@alexanderkupke920 I've had variable luck measuring and marking when some of the components mounting holes are odd. Also routing out large holes went easier. The Bridgeport was ideal for this.

@@slipstreamvids7422 I think here it came to "sort of" cheating with what I did. what we had to mount was mainly wire channels or the DIN Rails, as about everything we used mounted on DIN rails. And only on rare occasion there was some special power supply that was mounted directly to the plate. To be honest, in most cases they could have produced just plates with holes for the channels around and like a ladder in between the DIN rails and those might have worked for at least 85 % of what I did. And for the rest, I am sure some rearranging would make them somewhat fit as well. For bigger through holes we used sort of a punch (you drill a 8 mm hole and then put the punch around, tighten the screw, hole done.) and matching grommits.

@@alexanderkupke920 A Greenlee hole punch set is indispensable to the panel builder. Its been over a decade since I was exposed to this stuff now so I expect other tools and techniques have been implemented.

Even they know, and some actually do ;)

The old components were already gone when he got it.

I was afraid we were going to witness a circumcision.

If you have experience you can get away with it as he did. Otherwise use a clamp or a step drill, or a hole saw or punch.

Depends on whether the motor drive has the same specs for both pots. They might be (probably are) wound differently for the field voltage and motor voltage.

@@Mishn0 would they need to be linear or logarithmic not sure with out the spec sheet

The dual pots on the Monarch drive (used in the tube drives but the modular ones are a little different values) are really interesting pots. Besides being 2W wire wound linear pots, half of the wiper travel on each pot is shorted - the first half for the field pot and the second half for the armature pot. This makes sure that the field is kept at the maximum value for the armature voltage ramping and the armature maxed for the field weakening range. I've made replacements using original wirewound pots and painting half the travel with the silver trace repair paint.

I have heard them called dual gang.

It is a very old design from the 50's. There is another channel that gets into the details more I think. It may have to do with the original drive being tube based.

@@michael931 OK, I've done some more research and have learnt a thing or five. Pete Vree has some very good videos explaining the series, shunt, and compound DC motor from 5 years ago. There are typically 2 to 4 motors on the Monarch 10EE The main Spindle motor (more on this later). The cooling motor, a simple single-phase ac motor that is always energized when power is on, and probably used to keep the electronics from overheating. Then there are two optional motors, the hydraulic motor and the circulation pump motor. Both of these are three phase motors that are controlled by simple contactors. The Spindle Motor is a compound DC motor. That is why it has 6 leads. It will have two (2) sets of field windings, one for series, and one for shunt. And then there will be the armature leads. If the Shunt and Series windings are wired with the same magnetic polarity you have what is known as the Accumulative or Additive Compound DC Motor. This configuration is very well behaved and give excellent speed control (a function of the Shunt Winding) and handles varying loads (a function of the Series Windings) The best of both types. IF, the Shunt and Field Windings are wired with opposing magnetic polarities then you have a Differential Compound DC Motor and lots of weird behaviors manifest along with heat and sparks. I have yet to learn what a Differential DC Motor is good for, but I suspect that is not how Monarch configured it. Monarch reduces the energy going to the Shunt Winding after 60 seconds of idle. I believe this is what the KB drive will be used for, but that is a guess. I'm wondering if there is a simpler way. Looking forward to seeing the wiring

It depends on the specific end stop blocks. Some hold very well. I doubt there will be much vibration down there as everyone seems to think. The thing weighs 1000s of pounds. The motor is on the other end.

He mentioned in an earlier video that dc motors have better torque characteristics at low rpm than a 3 phase with vfd. Also the DC motor has a gear box that is part of the motor. People have done the 3 phase conversion, but it's all preference and Keith wants to stay with the DC motor.