The Monarch is looking great Keith, another informative video. Was smiling to myself when you was drilling the hand wheel for the new handle. Abom would have made a locating rig, and clocked the position of the spoke before drilling the wheel. You was realistic just like the common man in the workshop, drilled it by eye and winged it. Fantastic !.
I would love to see that tracer working again. When I was a teenager, I worked at a machine shop that had one mounted on their monarch lathe. I never got the chance to use it because my job was running the radial arm drill, but I always found it fascinating to watch. We made custom wheel hubs for race cars and trucks and they used that to machine them before I would drill out the studs. It was just really cool.
Agreed. I would also love to see how these pre CNC ideas work. I suspect its a lot of work to set it up but would be great to get some insight as to how it works. Don't split the tracer, it may become valuable some day !
You might think about removing the black paint on the top part off the jib crane post which should free up the clearance a bit and let the jib arm move freely.
That jib crane is cool and once it has the mass of a heavy chuck hanging on it- it will probably spin fine. But it is just begging for some upper bearings. That would make a fun video series!
I am going tomorrow to look at a 612 1610 model. This series of videos has given me a little more confidence that I can take on a machine like this. Thanks for the amazing content. I may have to reach out sometime for help!
It sure makes a fella wonder when all the service pannels are off a machine when you get it. It must feel great to see you have made real progress here today. Take care my friend
Keith, Really enjoying the Monarch coming together. Looking forward to the riser block project. It's always fun watching multiple RU-vidrs working together.
Chuck Dolly: One option for a chuck dolly is to use an automotive dolly. If the dolly can handle a car - it can handle a large chuck. HF has several models. The 1500 lb capacity one has four casters that bolt to the dolly. Could use a coupling nut or threaded rod, attached to the caster to keep the chuck from falling. One potential issue with this approach is that chucks would be close to the ground. The idea might not work for your application but if it does, it could save a bunch of time making a custom dolly.
Your best bet is ProWinch's Wireless Mini Hoist, available in 330lb, 660lb, and 1/2 Ton. And if you don't want a wireless model they have the same models with a pendant control. The 330lb wireless is only $300.
I always have admired your shop and your content, and I still go back to when you were restoring the LeBlond 17. I still have mine, and one day I need to wrap up the steady rest build. The riser build for this lathe will be of great interest to see. Take care, Bear
It it a pleasure to watch Keith work at returning a vintage machine to a useful life. Thanks Keith, for the entertainment and education. All the best for the new year.
Regarding tracer attachments, Keith Fenner has several videos in his old shop where he uses a hydraulic tracer to make several parts. He goes into real detail, otherwise I wouldn't have the slightest idea what you were talking about. The monarch looks great. The prior owner would be pleased you've taken such care of it. Well done!
It was painful to hear that some people have destroyed tracers. They are probably not that common, but in the right hands they look like a great accessory.
+It is great to see you getting back to work on this lathe! One of these days something big is going to come along, and you will be glad you did this work! TM Retireed but interested in lathes
Past experience with multiple individual v belts (i work with large decanture centrifuges and centrifugal pumps) has taught me to change all the belts as a set rather than just one. Usually the old belts will be stretched more causing you to either over tighten the new belts damaging them or under tightening the old belts, causing them to slap and potentially run under other belts tearing them off. It drives procurement crazy but trust me, change them all, not just one lol
The large jib crane sounds like a really good idea for practicality and safety. Making a custom riser block for the Frankenlathe also sounds great. Cutting up the hydraulic tracer arm would seem drastic-somewhere, someone might be able to use it!
True, you would have to use one hand to hold up a portion of the slack chain to ensure it feeds into the sprocket smoothly, but it is not a deal breaker or a project stopper. I have had to use this style of chain come-along in the horizontal and upside down position for various tasks and I assure you it works, and I would much prefer to hold up the slack side of the chain while standing firmly on the ground instead of operating the come-along standing on a step ladder.😁@@KPSchleyer
Congrats on the lathe upgrades ,and kudos to your on weight loss - you look more healthy. I remember working at a place that scrapped out a lathe that was twice as large - it was Italian built and they threw away all of the chucks, attachments and tooling. I need to come visit one day, I`m just 2 hours from the museum in N.Fla.
Hey,,,,,you ever think of getting a baby towmotor? - We got a little 1957 Yale 4000 pounder that I couldn't live without. - Even made a baby fork boom for it. - Stick a chain falls on it and it can['t be beat for assembling/dissembling machinery and even heavy chucks and mill vises and loading and unloading heavy parts from machines. - Even used it to change the motor in the flat bed F350 last summer. - We used to talk it on jobsites because it even goes through a 3-0 door,,,,, and it has a Farmall Cub Engine in it- Starters/Carbs/Water Pumps. etc, all no sweat. - If you come across something like ours for good numbers I couldn't recommend it more.
Keith, It was hard to see how the top of your davit post was built. I assume that the post (pipe) was left open so the bearing surface is the end of the post. A simple improvement is to weld a flat plate closure on the end of the post. If the bottom of the post is not open you will need to drill a vent hole. On the end plate, you will need to weld a flat disk about 1/4" to 3/8" thick. It should be flat, smooth, and parallel to the davit. The disk, with a little grease, will provide a better bearing surface for the davit. Bob
Dude i havent checked in on your channel in like 2 years. Saw the thumbnail and was like, no way thats Keith! Sure enough it is! Good job on getting healthy my guy! Keep it up!
What I have is an old 18" heavy duty handle with some wax in a grove. I can work a belt and never pinch or break a finger. The crank handle on the knee knocker that looks like it can be on backwards pointing at the lathe not the Knee .
Do I see the Monarch standing on wood blocks? Are you going to make some proper pads and level the lathe to tolerance? Took Adam Booth a whole video just to level his new lathe - lots of scrambling about on the floor! That I'd like to see!!! Happy 2024.
Keith, I watched your b video this morning and as usual enjoyed it fully. A couple of comments, as far as the spacer goes… I was thinking. What is the major diameter at the btm and what is the bolt hole circle ? Because I was thinking that rather than have a casting made… what about a raw casting for a weld neck flange thinking 150# but without the holes drilled and without the flange faced that would let you. Face it and drill the required holes and it’s weldable to add the compound mount … just thinking it would be faster and probably cheaper. Just a thought
@2:45 We've discussed matched belts before. Did you check the match numbers on the new ones or tell them they needed to be matched when you ordered them? I still would have used a three-V single belt for this... 🤔
Keith, do you suppose that you could use the tracer in a video before you get rid of it? A lot of fellows have never seen one and it would be educational. I understand if it's too much of a pain. There's some videos out there after all, but all the ones I've seen are of a far lower quality than what you do.
Instead of casting a riser block, fabricate one from steel plate and steal round stock. Five hole pattern on the bottom, three hole pattern on top, and four webs around the center. If it is designed a little high, you can machine to the correct height. Windy Hill Foundry would also be very happy to cast one.
A point about putting new belts on any machine tool if there is more than one belt. The belts should be fitted as a matched set, this is not as expensive as it sounds, although people will sell you a matched set of three at a major premium. If you go to your local bearing/belt supplier ask them for the number of belts you need and make sure they all the same make and have the same batch number. This means they have been cut from the same major belt and should all match.
SHOULD being the operative word. I have had about the same luck with "matched" belts as I have had just buying how ever many I need and not worrying about. If you get the old guy that knows what is up with belts and bearings, he will let you know belt makers don't match belts anymore. They just blow sunshine up your ass and charge more.
@@haroldphipps3457 Basically, from what I understand, the dimensional variance and construction quality are now so consistent that matched belts simply don't have enough of an edge over any random mix for it to matter. On a belt that length and size I'm pretty sure the inherent squish and stretch is going to be more than enough to compensate for the tiny manufacturing variations.
