Monarch 612 Lathe Restoration: The Tailstock Dilemma - Making One Good One from Two.... 

Very generous, hopefully something works out. Merry Christmas!

Please send me an email and we can discuss. I show my email address at the beginning of each video when my name pops up on the screen. Thank you!

Email sent. Thanks, Ken@@VintageMachinery

Very generous, but a 612 is a D1-6, at least mine is.

That's what Keth said. I'm very surprised that large Monarch only has a D1-6 mount. I tried. Ken@@glennanderson4440

Yes, that is where I would have expected the shimming to go. Putting in the ways would expose it to wear and the need to replace it at some point in the future.

I think that as well.

@@billbryant7194 I thought of the same way to shim it, but either way is good because Turcite lasts a very long time.

Agreed. Also this would allow shims to correct any out-of-parallel between the quill axis and the headstock axis in the vertical plane. Correction is also required in the horizontal plane.

@@johnspathonis1078 what is usually suggested is to scrape the tailstock base level with the lathe bed both ways. That let's you simply shim across the top of the base to get the quill on the spindle axis height. You don't want any gaps in the shim due as the clamping forces holding the top down would distort the top when you clamped the tailstock to the lathe ways. When I scraped in the tailstock on my Monarch it took a .006" shim to get the quill back up to the spindle height.

I remember when you sent those, you said something about them being drops maybe from where you work. It’s been awhile ago so I’m probably off base a ways son the back story but what you donated sure seems to be very helpful. Thanks for sharing!

@@Hoaxer51 yes you are correct!

Merry Christmas to you and yours!

1 year later ZZZZzzzzzzz 😉😉😉😉😉😉😉😉

And Tasmania too! Thanks for all your content Keith.

Exactly.... I was shouting at the screen. Anyhow he got it done.

@@ianpendlebury3704 We didn't get a clear view of the clamp side of the quill, but I suspect there was a pretty good scratch where the quill was pressed past that rusted in lock.

That lock is called a "split cotter", or it used to be called that anyway. It used to be a common way of locking a cylinder in a housing with minimal movement on locking.

The fixed center was probably off of a lathe that was dedicated to making a part or a production process.

I noticed that, but it doesn't have the access hole on the side that is needed to wedge out tapered spindles.

It's relatively easy to Make a morse taper hole, you only need to make something closer and then finish it with a Morse taper reamer, but it's even easier to swap the quill if you already have the proper one 😉

@@ruben_balea Sure, you can make *anything* with enough work. But my main point was that it was obviously not designed to be swappable with a morse taper center.

@@kindabluejazz I didn't mean that it was designed to be swappable, only that the modifications are easy to make for someone who already has other lathes and milling machines.

I have heard similar comments, perhaps brass would be more suitable.

@@Ropetangler i recently pulled apart a DSG lathe that had brass/ bronze liners underneath the saddle. But they were not solid pieces but more like bronze lined steel liners.