This is a short viewer requested video to recap the use of the ELSR on the Monarch 10EE, ELSR aka, Electronic Lead Screw Reversing Please visit Four Ponds Shop, he has been rebuilding some 10EEs, great discussion and detail....
Beautiful piece of equipment Chuck, I can see why so many owners have re-painted in bright colours. I am overwhelmed by the width of the saddle .it sure spreads the contact over a large area. That stopping feature for threading is super slick as well. Enjoyed , cheers!
Thanks for viewing, there are days that I regret not doing a paint job on the machine when I got it, but that is just not me, I kind of like the "worked" look and honestly I don't have to clean as much since I do get lazy...lol
Hi, I'm really amazed by that threading stop on the crossslide handwheel. How does it work that you have a defined stop in both directions? Looks like that is really helpful for cutting threads. Never seen something like this on other lathes. Thanks for sharing.
Your lathe has a ward-Lenard drive. This is a signal amplifier that uses mechanical components to amplify an input signal. A true marvel. It creates a DC voltage to drive the main motor. Otis used ward-Lenard’s in elevators well into the 1980s!
Chuck, Many thanks for this video... this 10EE has lots of functionality I was not aware of... Any more videos on this 10EE would be gratefully received. Take care. Paul,,
I've yet to see a full tour of the 10EE having been made aware of them by Keith Rucker (VintageMachinery.org YT) and it's clear it's an oddball lathe. Keith has one to fix with an AC/DC system but he says electrically it's a mess. Keith may well appreciate some assistance in getting it fixed up in due course.
You probably dont care but if you're stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the new movies and series on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my brother these days =)
I would love a follow up on cutting multi start threads on the 10EE ELSR. Have you ever cut a three start thread and do you know if its an easy adjustment on the monarch? Cheers from Australia
I've yet to see a full tour of the 10EE having been made aware of them by Keith Rucker (VintageMachinery.org YT) and it's clear it's an oddball lathe. Keith has one to fix with an AC/DC system but he says electrically it's a mess. Keith may well appreciate some assistance in getting it fixed up in due course. I noted your dehumidifier. Do you have that connected to a permanent drain ? Odd how the text lines above have been truncated like that - nothing to do with me - just pasted the text there!
thanks for viewing...don't understand the use of "oddball", but yes there are many variants of this machine. My "permanent drain" is a hose thru the wall to the landscape area...I certainly got tired of having to empty the container...
@@outsidescrewball I bought a similar unit 6 months ago due to the 'weather' getting to machines & tools. It meant leaving the garage powered up all the time and the lean-to greenhouse was fed from the garage but is now completely delapidated. I disconnected the supply to the lean-to - then it rained - and I could hear explosions. It seems unbeknown to anyone, dad did some very unorthodox wiring - so power was still being supplied to the greenhouse despite the feed wire being disconected ! Untill I sort the wiring mess out, both garage and greenhouse are now isolated from mains supply - so the dehimidifier's in the kitchen (draining into the sink!). The 10EE is 'oddball' due to various features - short bed, wide saddle, unconvetional controls on the headstock. The ELSR - is it really electronic ? and what's all the gubbins at the tailstock end ? Many lathes have spindle forward/reverse lever on the apron - so I see absolutely no nned for an additional device at the tailstock ! You just need bed stops that operate the spindle drive control at the apron!
This is the first 10EE with ELSR that still had the control on the headstock. Every ELSR machine I've ever seen had the headstock switch removed and a blanking plate installed. Coincidentally, I just tore the ELSR housing off my 10EE completely apart last night (less the knob on top - can't get it off) to strip what's left of the burnt-off paint, thoroughly clean & remove any rust from the internal parts, and prep. it for Bondo and paint. My 10EE was in my brother's garage when it burned to the ground. He died before he could submit everything to his insurance company. I don't have the $65,000.00 that Monarch quoted to repair the machine so I'm stuck doing it myself. Arrggh, there is little I dislike doing more in life than bodywork and paint. I've repowered it with a 3.5kW AC Servo motor and drive. It also allowed me to add a true Electronic Lead Screw Reverse to the machine using 2 proximity switches tied into the axis overtravel inputs on the servo drive. With moderate spindle speeds and mass the spindle will stop in 1 revolution or less, typically stopping within a thousandth or so. I could lower that figure by using high precision prox. switches instead of bog standard ones. I'm really looking forward to getting the old girl brought back from the scrap pile, hopefully by this spring. I wish I had the time to document the process with video but it's simply takes way too much time to be setting up cameras and lighting. I've been picking at it for about 2 years as it is, and I really need to get an operable lathe back in the shop. Till she spins again, all I can do is live vicariously thru other's 10EE video's on NannyTube....
Hello Marc, thanks for viewing, the ELSR was added to my lathe by one of the earlier owners along with some re-wiring, hence the double levers (which I like). I would assume you have watched Four Ponds Shop and his rebuilds of 10ee lathes. My condolences regarding your brother, know he is watching you as you get the machine back up running. I certainly understand the time constraint of getting something completed while filming....take care and keep me posted on your completion...
@@outsidescrewball The ELSR added after the fact makes sense, it's a really useful feature to have. No, I haven't watched any of Four Ponds stuff yet, been on the list though. I'm a Machine Tool Technician, I repair CNC machine centers and ancillary equipment at my night job (prefer nights - no bosses giving their 'input' so I can actually get things fixed) so working on a 10EE is relatively easy. The biggest issue has been the cost of parts. Anything to do with a 10EE has skyrocketed over the past 15 years. All the knobs on the gearbox melted, had to pay 35 - 75 a piece on FleaBay for instance. I gave up trying to find the LH | FEED | RH placard for anything under stupid, ended up 3D printing one. Apparently the front set of spindle bearings are over $4000 from Monarch now since the front bearing has a special flange on the front of it. I've been taking a lot of photos during the process and plan on doing a narrated slide show video when it all gets done. That way I can listen to internet experts telling me how I screwed everything up LOL...
@@marcseclecticstuff9497 take a look at a YT channel Daryl Smith, he does similar work, FYI it is possible here in the near future I will be looking at two 10ee lathes, both in pieces as I am told so maybe some parts....
The trick with the cross feed dial is in setting up for threading. Set the compound to 30 degrees (or a little less) and the dial at zero. Start the lathe and use the cross feed to advance the tool to the work with the stop engaged but the dial lock (lever in front) unlocked. The dial will come up to the stop at 0 but will continue to turn with the dial slipping. Advance the tool until it scratches the work and engage the dial lock. At that point the cross feed and the compounds are both at 0 for turning threads.
Russ...thanks for the view and comments, I believe it is easier to set the stop within range of the work, advance the stop to the dead point, then make the final adjustments with the compound, after touch off, zero the compound and start the threading
the 10EE is so rigid having the compound on it is the weakest link. Ditch the compound and use a rigid toolpost with a multifix holder and straight plunge your threads. no more faffing about with angles.
@@outsidescrewball I'd hope my lathe achieves better than that - if I ever get a DRO fitted to it. I've not even got a 10ths DTI It has an unusual trip for the power feed. It's designed so the stop stops the travel then the power feed trips on a designed adjustable overload. But that's for the power feed - it doesn't work for threading !
The feature only stops the spindle mechanically with the dogs camming the apron spindle control lever to neutral. The DC spindle motor quickly dynamically brakes to a stop when in neutral. The larger Monarch lead screw reverse option is all mechanical, the spindle continues to run through the cycle. Great video!
Very. very nice machine. Any Monarch is nice, but the !0EE is extra special. Enjoyed the explanation of the threading system overview. Always learn so much from you, even when Charlie interrupts. Take Care and Stay Safe. Bob
