Hello Frank. You are amazing!! I know some of the videos I am watching are older but man are they helpful. I am a newbie to 3D printing and don't know where I would be without you. I assume your a fellow Canadian from Quebec but don't know enough to say so for sure. Thank you look forward to getting to know you more and of course your wonderful technology reviews and support.
I presume if I replaced the main board with the MKS Gen L, I would lose the wifi function of the printer or is that module elsewhere? I'm thinking of doing this as a cheap way of using the TMC drivers for a quieter machine.
Hi Frank, love your videos. Very informative. I just picked up a refurbished mini 2 and won't be making modifications for a while so I have your videos bookmarked for down the road :) I did have one question about the yellow hot end shroud that you have. I didn't see you mention it here or in your other videos but is there a thingiverse design for it somewhere? That is something I would like to make and put to use sooner rather than later. Thanks!
Frank, super design surtout le bloc USB B !!! T'as pas eu de trouble à utiliser en même temps le TFT et Octoprint ? Lors de ma 1ère impression via octoprint avec le TFT branché, l'imprimante a subitement arrêté d'imprimer ! En googlant, j'ai vu que le TFT utilisait aussi le port série de la MKS Gen L (comme octoprint) et que du coup c'était déconseillé d'utiliser les 2. Pour remédier à ce problème, je compte couper le connecteur de l'écran et ajouter un switch afin de pouvoir déconnecter le fil TX serial du TFT vers la carte quand je veux (donc pendant une impression lancée via octoprint). Que penses-tu de cette idée ?
Salut, non je n'ai aucun problème à utiliser le TFT et Octoprint, remarque je ne touche pas au TFT quand j'imprime avec Octoprint, mais j'ai imprimé environ 12 pièces sans problèmes. Le board MKS Gen L semble permettre d'utiliser les deux, d'ailleurs quand tu branches l'imprimante sur Arduino, tu vois 2 ports séries, le deuxième semble être le TFT. Je pense qu'ils sont en parallel et peuvent être utilisé en même temps.
Frank: Since you did not explicitly address it, is the Marlin version that is on Thingiverse ready to upload to the MKS? Or do some modifications need to be made? Also, how is the file for the TFT to be used? (Excuse me if they have been updated with details in the last week. I grabbed them when they first appeared)
I will do more videos and more about those. I do not think I have modified the Marlin and MKS files since then, just to be sure grab them again. Yes the Marlin is ready to use, it is the one I have put on my board, as long as you have an MKS Gen L board like mine you are fine. For the MKS, you just put the files from the folder "Classic_En_Win8 Mini V2 - Franks3DShop" at the root of an SD card in fat32, boot the screen and it will update and get my settings and custom screen. Please, let me know if all goes well. Thanks.
@@Franks3Dshop So far, so good, Frank. I was able to compile and upload the Marlin file. (Couple of tiny changes, as I am starting out with the DRV8825s because that's what I have on hand. Big issue will be setting the driver voltages and getting the steps correct, although I've just been through this on another project.) Did the boot of the display with your files on the SD card, and that was perfect as well. I have not yet hooked up any of the electronics, but I don't anticipate any surprises there either since it will be almost identical to the hookup on my other project that uses the MKS Gen L. The only outstanding issue is that the TFT24 does not quite fit into the faceplate piece, so I need to slightly modify that...it's too small in one dimension by less than 0.5 mm. (I already reprinted once, so I think this will work.) On balance, it went very well so far. Thanks for your support.
Hi, good to know, for the DRV8825 in the video you have the iMax values of the original board, you should be able to calculate the same values with the DRVs... My printers are really well calibrated in X and Y, your’s probably needs a little tuning to get the correct alignements... Or just scale it your slicer... Thanks.
@@Franks3Dshop Two more noob questions. Do I copy "Classic_En_Win8 Mini V2 - Franks3DShop" and all the attached files to the SD card? Or just the files under "Classic_En_Win8 Mini V2 - Franks3DShop"? I was gonna do the latter but thought I should ask. Also what do you mean by "boot the screen"? Could you do a quick sequence of the steps that are needed to do this? Just a couple quick sentences to point me in the right direction and I will figure it out. I should be getting my TFT tomorrow and want to play with it. Thanks.
Hi, only the content of Classic... should by copied to the SD card, if it works it is going to be renamed by the TFT screen, there is no danger it will just not work if you do not have the files in the right place or if the card is not formatted correctly... 1- you copy the files, 2- you put the SD card in the screen slot 3- you power on the screen and let it do it’s updates, you will see it on screen...
Good Morning Frank! I am in need of printing a few parts on my MPSM V2 and have had a couple ok looking ones and failures. Can you tell me what Cura settings you use on Basic and Advanced? I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Ive used your upgrade files on my V2 MP200 with a mks_Gen L ver 1 using Tmc4988 steppers which i already had, but i'm only able to get half the bed to be used, it wont go past the half way on x or y unless in the firmware i double the size of bed, which is not really advisable i'm guessing..and idea what i could of missed
Awesome! Just waiting for the last part then im doing this! One question, i have 3 fans running today (hotend, part cooling ans case). Where on the board can i add the third fan?
I will connect the Hot End and Case fan in parallel so that I can use the part cooling fan. You could also use a free pin on the board, like any of the +X, Y and Z and turn on the case fan or hot end fan with a Mosfet board.
Frank's 3D shop Thanks! Do you know if there is a product for running two fans in parallel? Im not so good with the soldering iron on so small cables :-)
SORRY THIS GOT SO LONG. Hopefully it is useful. ****************************************************** Frank: We are completely up and running now, with your new mods (except that I used the DRV8825 drivers for now. The motors are running at about 30-32 C using your measurements). System is calibrated, printing quietly and talking to Octoprint once again. I have a couple of questions, and maybe a couple of observations that might assist others in doing this mod. But, first, overall, it has been an easy, effective mod that accomplished what I wanted. Questions: 1. On the "levelling" menu page, it appears that the graphic might not be quite correct. I wonder if the "quadrant" graphic should be different as the hotend moves from place to place, instead of always showing the upper left quadrant graphic. I also am not sure why it starts with the "back" graphic showing for all except the upper left quadrant. The procedure works, of course, but the graphic is confusing. 2. I'm primarily using Octoprint. But, how would one do an immediate stop/cancel of a print if they were using only the TFT interface? The original Mini firmware had both a cancel and a pause on the front screen. Is there an equivalent function in the TFT24 menu system? (I could have just missed it) Comments. Thanks for the ability to "home" each axis independently. However, it appears that after startup, an axis cannot be moved to the negative direction until it has been automatically "homed". Is this correct? It's not a big deal because one can just home all three axes immediately, but it means that for testing, you have to have the endstops set up so you can move the axes to the negative direction. Otherwise, it might seem like the motor was not working if it happened to be at the extreme positive end of it's travel when power was supplied. Your PID algorithm worked very nicely for the hot end, and as you found, it holds the temp within 0.1 degree of the set point. It gets to the temp and stabilizes within about 2 minutes, which is also good. You inclusion of the 3 speeds for the extruder is useful, especially for calibrating the extruder. The slow speed allows the most accurate amount to be extruded. Your design for managing the USB connector is very nice!! It works well, and I finally got rid of that micro USB connector which had failed on the original board. As for the install, there were a couple of things that I was not expecting or that might be useful. i. The wiring from the bed was not long enough to reach the connection points. This was especially true of the heater, but I also had to extend the thermistor. Note that I had already re-routed that wiring to the outside of the printer, but I don't believe I had shortened anything. ii. Some of the connectors were different from the original board. The stepping motors were ok, of course. The end stops had to be modified anyway, but I believe that it was a different JST size. Same for the thermistors. It's not just a matter of removing the pins. Case fan connector was also a different JST. iii. All 4 of my motors had to be reversed in the Marlin config file. iv. As a matter of interest, the white JST connector that is next to the X-motor is always on and supplies 12V. I used that for my case fan so that it can be independent of the hotend, which I put on the D9 "fan" connector, as you did. (I don't have a separate "parts" fan at this time.) (I wonder if the connector for the E2 hotend could be reassigned as a part cooling fan?) I suspect that most of the issues I found are just the routine variation in the way that these machines are manufactured. And, the most important point is that your firmware and TFT configuration made it very easy to get this mod done. I would say that it only took about 4 hours, once I started the process and had the parts printed etc. Thanks so much for getting this ready to go!!
Thanks for the feedback! Did you use the calculation for your drivers to get the iMax I listed ? Here are my replies for now, I just numbered them in the order they were... 1. I will look at it, I level by moving the head by hand and it’s only rarely that I need to level. I will take a look. 2. I will add a custom Stop command for Octoprint, it can be either a gcode or there is a plug-in for Octoprint using custom commands we can use. 3. This is a feature of Marlin called software end stop, it can be disable in Marlin or with a gcode ‘M211 S0’ when needed, I will also add a custom button... 4. Speeds are built in the TFT firmware.. 5. USB connector, thanks and I am proud of the solution took me some time to get it correct. 6. I had to replace the bed heater cable it was broken, I also extended the thermistor in the video where I replace the bed wiring ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xT5_GBvba24.html 7. Yes you are correct I had to replace the fan connector, I have a good JST crimper and connector kit listed from Amazon in the description. For the thermistors I did not change my connectors they were the right size. 8. Probably because of part supply during the manufacturing they even have a reverse motor command that Marlin does not have, will add this to a follow up video. 9. Yes you are correct there is a 12V always On supply on a JST connector, in my case I want the quietness of the case fans OFF after a print, so it will go in parallel with the hot end fan when I add the part cooler. You can use E1 and the fan connector they both can be used to control fans, the one with the screw in connections can handle more power than the JST connector, the way it’s configured in Marlin the hot end fan comes on at 50 degrees and the case fan when motors are engaged. You can easily change the E1 for a part cooler, I will list what is needed in a futur video.
What drivers did you use are they of some brand or do you have a link? You should have applied a formula to get the vref for your drivers. At least they are not over heating like mine almost did! I can look for you if you want.
@@Franks3Dshop I used the drivers at this link: tinyurl.com/y2n7f9m3 I think that I mentioned earlier that I had already purchased the MKS board and drivers before you posted your video about this mod, so I already had them. And, in addition, I had used the same board and drivers to set up and operate my "Mostly Printed CNC Router" (tinyurl.com/yxa6t7ys) that I had just built, so I was familiar with how everything worked using Marlin, etc, although I had planned to use a different display on the MPSM until you showed the TFT24. And, yes, there is a formula for the voltage, but it's just Imax/2, so it was easy. At the MPSM facebook page, folks also say they are running these motors at about 300-500mA, so that is consistent with what you found. I just used your Imax divided by 2 to set the voltage. I'm no expert, but as far as I can tell, the motors are operating without any issues. Eventually, I will probably replace these drivers with the TMC 2100 or 2130, but there is no rush. The only real issue is that the DRV8825's seem to be occasionally causing some very high pitched sound, but I usually can't hear it because it's not continuous and I'm not in the same room. (The bigger issue is an apparent mechanical racket coming from the belts, bearings, and pulleys on the x axis.)
Hi, I corrected the missing level icons, added an Emergency Stop in the custom menu to use with Octoprint. The new version is on Thingiverse, please let me know how it goes for you.
Ayoye, je viens de comprendre quand il restait 4 min ce que tu faisais... Un printer lol. Moi j'veux une prochaine vidéo sur ton arcade que tu t'es monté :)
Frank, We are up and running except that the extruder is running in reverse. I know that I can probably reverse it by editing configuration.h but, in principle, I should be able to do it using the "M562 E" command. However, when I do that from Octoprint using the terminal, I get an "unknown command" message. I think this may be an MPSM specific gcode command. Do you know of any reason why these commands should not work with Marlin as we have it configured? (Other commands like G90, G91, M503, etc. were successful, so I think the communication is OK)
Hi, yes it is a specific Monoprice command, seems to me that they correct the motor in software probably because they are not always wired the same from factory. You could also inverse cables on the plug.
Hi Frank just puchased the monopice mini v2 after only 1 print I got a sensor fail on the screen, Heat bed and nozzle wont heat up. Whats causing this??? Please
If you can ask for a replacement or refound, if it’s not possible repair either the hot end thermistor cable or more likely the bed thermistor cable, I have a video on this.
What are the temps supposed to be on a stock v2 board ? I’m getting around 117 Fahrenheit on the x axis stepper ? I’ve never touched the voltage or even opened the printer up so is that normal for it to be running that hot ?
Hi, yes it is normal, those motors can endure more than that, some of my motors that are a little bigger go up to 140F no problem, I do not remember the specs of the different motors on the mini, but 117F is quite fine I think. My concern is was not to burn the drivers in my transformation or ask too much of the power supply.
hey frank i have an issue where when my printer homes it goes to the right instead of the left and crashes into the side. It should go to the left and hit the endstop. Can you explain what might be the issue?. As well as that the cooling fan for the hotend doesn't turn on.
Hi, for the direction problem, you can reverse the cables or change the direction in Marlin in the configuration file. In mine the cooling fan comes ON at 50 degrees. Hope this helps.
Hi, you could add a bltouch if you make a support for it, but the build plate is so small I prefer to add a flat glass and do it manually, anyway the probe would not be able to reach every corners you would need something like a piezo probe so use the nozzle as a probe, it requires major redesign of the hot end.
Frank: Well, things are beginning to get final, however, there is one issue that so far is not solved: The hot end fan does not come on when the extruder temp exceeds the set temperature (50C). It's connected to pin 9, as is specified in configuration_adv.h. The fan was working fine in the original configuration, so it should be OK, but I also checked the voltage on those pins, and it's zero. Is there someplace else that it could be overridden? Note that this is in a test only. I have not yet been able print anything.
Well, it's gremlins again. There must have been a loose plug or something because the last time I started it up, the hot end fan is now working. No idea what's going on. So, now, the only issue is that the extruder is running backwards, so I need to modify the configuration.h file one more time. The other motors were all running backwards, but I thought E0 was OK. Once E0 is reversed, calibration prints can start!!! I have some questions about how this is all going to work, but that can wait for now...
I do not know if it is possible, TPU as nasty fumes and my shop as no window or ventilation. Smooth PLA would work fine I think it is flexible but not stretchable...
You can use a Mks wifi module, work with some limitations, I use a Raspberry Pi Zero W with octoprint on some of my printers connected through USB, works if you do not connect a camera and keep it slim...
Another question. How did you make your boot screen? I tried and failed. I designed my logo and saved it as a .jpeg. Imported it into MS Paint, resized it to 320 x 240 pixels and saved it as 24 bit bitmap. Then I opened it up in Image2Lcd. Settings: File type = Binary, Scan mode = Horizontal, Bits Pixel = 16bit True Color, and set the tabs under the image to 16 bit color. Then I saved it as "bmp_logo.bin". Next I dropped it into the mks_pic folder and did a copy and replace. I then copied the two folders and three files to a SD card and booted the TFT24 screen. After refreshing the data, the boot screen starts, but is garbled. You can tell it is my logo but everything is out of place. If you are familiar with Image2Lcd, do you have any idea what I did wrong? If you use some other program, could you tell me what it is?
@@Franks3Dshop Thanks. Found it. Works great. Much better than the convoluted way I tried. After spending a day trying to figure it out, it took 15 minutes to download, convert the file, and flash the TFT. Now all I'm waiting for is the video's for the TMC2130 drivers.
Hi, I will make some tests using the TMC2130 switchless end stops on the Z axis, to see if I can get by probing the bed, and without braking the glass on the bed...
I just watched your video on replacing the fan. I ordered one using your commission link. But watching this video i see your fan mount has been updated and modified. I looked for a video on this can't find one. Do you have the link for the print that i can do? Thanks and keep up the great work.
hello frank can you please make a detailed how to to install or your marlin code. i am newbie to all this please help by making a detailed video of how o install
I made all of the mods, using the parts list supplied. When I turn it on, I get power to the board and display, but nothing from any of the axes. Any idea what I need to look at to resolve this?
Hi, verify that power is applied to the board, verify the jumpers under the motor drivers. What drivers did you get, they have to be set in standalone stealthy mode. Did you try to move the axis from the printer menu ? Connect a computer and use Pronterface to see what the board is telling you when moving the axis... Send me what Pronterface gives you when moving axis if you are still stuck...
@@Franks3Dshop I now have all except the z-axis working. Here is the pronterface output. Connecting... start Printer is now online. echo:Marlin bugfix-2.0.x echo: Last Updated: 2019-10-31 | Author: (none, default config) echo:Compiled: Nov 1 2019 echo: Free Memory: 3699 PlannerBufferBytes: 1216 echo:SD init fail echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded echo: G21 ; Units in mm (mm) echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius echo:Filament settings: Disabled echo: M200 D3.00 echo: M200 T1 D3.00 echo: M200 D0 echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E96.00 echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s): echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z20.00 E25.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): echo: M201 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z3000.00 E3000.00 echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00 echo:Advanced: B S T J echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 J0.01 echo:Home offset: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 echo:Hotend offsets: echo: M218 T1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.000 echo:Material heatup parameters: echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F0 echo: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0 echo:PID settings: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 echo:Tool-changing: echo: Z2.00 The only time I get any z-axis response is if I plug it into the E0 connection on the main board. No response when connected to the x- or y-axis connections. I replaced the z-axis motor with a know good one. I also tried swapping the stepper driver. Thanks for your help I've got too much money into this upgrade to give up on it now.
This is a total noob question. When I open your Marlin.ino file by double clicking on it, Arduino loads the file. However I only see one tab. That is the first "Marlin" tab. I don't see the other tabs (i.e. the "Configuration.h" or the "Configuration_adv.h" tabs) that I will need to edit. As a test, I downloaded a copy of Marlin.ino from the Marlin website and they show up. Am I doing something wrong?
@@Franks3Dshop I got it to work! I took the .ino file I downloaded from the Marlin website and deleted everything but the Marlin.ino file. I then took your files and copied everything but your Marlin.ino file into the one from the Marlin website. I can now seethe configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h tabs with your edits. I think I'm gonna wait til you do the TMC2130 mods. I'm gonna try to add the sensor-less endstop mod. I have one question though. Which brand of TMC2130 drivers should I be looking for? Do you have a link to the ones you got? The reason I'm asking is that if I have to order these via China post, it's gonna take a month to get them. If I order them now, they will get here shortly after you post that video. I still haven't got my TFT screen yet. It arrived in Chicago 4 days ago from China and has sat there since. I can't wait to look at that.
Hi, I will use these AliExpress ones, I already tested them they seemed fine and the cable are already done for you: s.aliexpress.com/FNzu6Fnu Or you can use a local store. In SPI control you will be able to set the Vref in software no calculation needed...
Cool that were able to solve this, I will load the file on. My PC and save it again, I think it’s because it was edited on a Mac... These also seems to be the same, not sur if you can have them Prime I do not see it from Canada amzn.to/2D3dc1i
