Montana A Frame - Concrete Countertops 

Thanks I appreciate it - glad you found it helpful.

Thanks! I can't wait to see your finishing touches on your A Frame.

Thank you! I appreciate it.

Can say the same. Waiting for more updates. It really looks like things will match perfectly. :)

Yes finally back - thanks for the continued support. Cabin is about 99% completed I will have another summer video update up soon.

@@bencekuti1100 thanks Bence, yes I was happy with they look of the counters when I got them in the cabin.

Your welcome, I hope you found the informaion helpful

Thanks, which part of the state are you in?

@@davidbonde2148 North Central Montana in Fort Benton....I go through your area quite often on the way to Helena and Bozeman. Beautiful country

@@thadaxtman4947 maybe our paths will cross someday

You are welcome 😊

Thanks! Good luck with your countertops.

11:37 of video has the parts. Sorry! Awesome job.

@@korizen Thanks - Yes the Pro-Formula is what I use. There all specialized countertop concrete bag mixes but I have always used the standard 5000psi concrete mix.

Thanks, you get the color by adding a pigment to the concrete. I like the dry powder pigment from Concrete Exchange. I show the package I used at the 11:45 mark in the video, and that is what I added to the concrete mix at the 1:55 mark.

Thanks the mix I used at 11:54 is one bag of the Pro-Formula to 120 lbs of concrete mix. The color I used was Charcoal.

Thanks, 120 pounds - 2 60 pound bags of 5000 psi concrete for one bag of the color/mix. I used the regular gray concrete mix. They do sell countertop concrete in bags now that is white but I have never used that.

@@davidbonde2148 thank you for the info!

2 60lb bags of concrete to 1 package ProFormula mix.

You are welcome - thanks for watching.

Sorry, I don't know what the maximum span would be. All my work has been similar to the counters in this video. The largest counter I have made was a kitchen island that was 3’X5’ but had support around the perimeter and down the middle.

Yes mine lightened some when it dried and yes the tung oil will bring some of the color back. In the video at 13:25 it kind of shows the difference.

I will add that if your countertops are "allmost gray" the tung oil will probably not make them close to a black.

Ok, thanks for the response. I was thinking about trying a stain, there are some products out there, but I love the idea of just the natural oil. Great job on the countertops and thanks for posting the video.

Thanks - good luck with your project.

Quickcrete 5000 psi regular gray 60lb bags

I don't remeber exactly - 8 to 10 I think

That is the fine aggregate (sand) in the concrete mix. You can control how much of the aggregate is exposed with the grinding/polishing process.

One package of the Pro Formula shown at 11:45, if you want to see a close up, is mixed with 120 lbs of concrete. That package contains the dye so I'm not sure of a specific weight of just the dye included in the package.

No cracks - I did similar counters in my home kitchen about 15 years ago and never had any cracks but you do have to be careful with acidic foods they will stain/etch your counters. I have never found a sealer that is bullet proof but the Tung oil has worked well. Good luck with your project.

Dave thanks so much for the reply!! Could you give me the products you used and were they 2” or 1 1/2” thick? Have a good one 👍

These were 2" my last ones were 1 1/2 here is what I used Melamine for the forms 100% Silicone to seal corners of the forms 5000psi 60lb bags of regular concrete Rebar CX Pro-Formula Precast Concrete Countertop Mix (Charcoal Color) 4" wet grinder Diamond grinding/polishing pads 100 to 1500 grit bought on ebay Harbor Freight concrete vibrator Pure Tung Oil - sealer Electric buffer Buffed with white 3m pad (not shown in the video)

I would like to go an 1 1/2 because of the weight and moving the bigger pieces do you think there is room for the rebar like you put in the 2 inch slabs? Thanks a bunch

yes I used rebar in my 1 1/2 counters - be careful not to get it to close to the top of your counters it can leave a shadow line. There are other products available like the fiberglass or wire mesh that could also be used instead of rebar, or the fiberglass rebar that doesn't rust. If I were making thinner (1 1/2" counters) I would probably look at those and use rebar in areas that are narrow like behind the sink and in front of the sink if it is not a farmhouse style.

The concrete is standard 5000psi concrete from the Home Center - the additive is Pro-Formula for precast concrete countertops from Concrete Exchange

I used regular 5000psi 60lb bags of gray concrete Quickcrete brand. The color is Pro-Formula charcoal color.

@@davidbonde2148 ok Great Thank you. Appreciate the help !

"Rebars are tied only to maintain bar positions during work done by other trades and during concrete placing. Tying adds nothing to the strength of the finished structure. In most cases, a tie at every fourth or fifth intersection is all that's needed. More information on bar placing, splicing, and tying is given in the Concrete Reinforcing Steel Institute (CRSI) book Placing Reinforcing Bars." I quess opinions vary, if you feel it adds stregth by all means tie yours.