The GM manual stipulates that the rear linkage arm should be just shy of the hole by 1/2 of the rod diameter. Not sure why GM differs, but your instructions are "more correct" and logical. If you use the GM setting the center carb will not seat against the idle. VERY GOOD video and the same for the other one on this topic.
@@backnine Very good. I will be looking forward to it. 👍 I have a six barrel set up and would like to be able to tune the idle myself without having to take it to the shop (or wait for an opening), and their are not many who know how or are willing to mess with them.
hi Harold I have a six pack on a 70 Charger 440 I'm having a problem with the idle I've rebuilt the carburetors I don't find any binding on the outbound throttle blades just curious what a weak spring and a diaphragm allow the throttle blade to open just a hair prematurely and change my idle setting thank you Brian
@@backnine Thank you Harold I'm working on a friend's car what's happening is you blip the throttle and it changes idle a bit and when I push back on the outbound carburetor throttle plates mainly the rear carburetor it seems to settle the idle down we have rebuilt the carburetors and sterilize them throttle plates are not binding as far as I can see thought I might have the linkage Miss adjusted or possibly weak spring in a diaphragm thank you for your get back.
Having issues with my rear outboard getting stuck closed. When its on the manifold the vacuum pods won’t close it with the rods disconnected and engine off. Seems like its binding. Is that butterfly issues or something else? I have the promax rear baseplate installed.
At 12.45 I believe you misspoke when you mention adjustments for the outboards while pointing to the right or passenger side. There are no adjustments there at all. I like your video but I believe the point is missed about the vacuum line needing to be disconnected while setting throttle plates. While that is true, what needs to be stated loud and clear is the linkage on the drivers side does NOT open the secondary carbs, that's done by vacuum. The rods connected to the center carb limit the amount of opening to coordinate with primary carb but most importantly to SHUT DOWN the secondaries. It is possible to have a WIDE OPEN THROTTLE with all 6 barrels going full on in traffic and the gas pedal to the floor without your foot on it! and the only way to not KILL someone is to turn the key off. Try that in heavy traffic with 4:11 gears (and hopefully not a locking column). It is truly frightening and I guarantee you will see GOD! How can this happen you ask? And thru no fault of you or your mechanic? Those little left and right handed spring metal clips which snap onto the end of the shutdown rods at each carb, if one breaks and now the rod falls off then that allows both secondary carbs to instantly go wide open while sky high revs induce flow thru primary and they too go wide open. What you now have are all 6 barrels wide open. The clip that broke (front one) was brand new and had been special ordered as it was the odd handed one, (probably heat treated wrong). Check those clips carefully, and when testing, safety wire the secondaries shut, as a rubber band just might break. I learned this in 1977 and still have one of these cars sitting in the garage today. Neat setup but a flawed engineering design way to reliant on 2 bit clip. Something to think about.
