More (Advanced) Bust Adjustments for Historical Patterns | FBAs for Regency-1920s 

Glad it was helpful! and thanks :)

Thank you!

I was like "wait! she cut her hair!"

Haha yeah I cut it right after our tea party! Thanks

Thanks for watching!

thank you for watching :)

Thanks ;)

Thanks! Glad it helped

Thank you!! 😊

Thanks (and thanks!)

Thanks so much Cathy!

@@DixieDIY Happy CoSy!

thanks :)

No, if you do an FBA the armholes will look more curved. The off-the-shoulder ballgown bodice already has "weird" looking armholes for a couple reasons - the shoulder point is on the side of your arm instead of above on your natural shoulder, and the side seam comes up and around to the back of the body. When you do an FBA on that style of pattern, the armhole looks extra small but that's actually ok!

@@DixieDIY great. Thanks for clarifying. Can’t wait to give it a go 😁

When you do an FBA it alters the armhole by making it curvier. One of the tale tell signs you need an FBA when you make a mock up is that you'll get gaping in the armscye area. By doing the FBA you eliminate that gaping. The larger the FBA, the curvier that armhole will get. On the princess seam bodice, since the dress is off-the-shoulder and the side seam swings toward the back of the bodice, it looks especially odd but it is correct! An SBA would make the armhole less curvy. As for the Simplicity pattern, I doubt it. I already have a decent set of late 18th century stays and if I tackle earlier stays I'd probably try drafting them myself or maybe using a pattern from a different brand. IIRC I think LizCapism made that pattern last year. If you're up for trying something new, I'd recommend the Augusta Stays by Scroop Patterns. I haven't made them yet but I like the company and I know they have both a "straight" and "curvy" drafts, plus it has a fit guide. And the stays have a slight opening in front that you could loosen or tighten depending on your swelling! I've never had much luck with "Big 4" historical costume patterns (their sizing and ease are funky). Good luck!

If it looks more like an equilateral triangle (the opening is as wide as the legs are long or wider) you probably need to split. The longer the dart is (like if it goes to the waist rather than just under the bust) the less dramatically wide the dart will be.