Very interested to see how this goes, I have done the TT Airbox seal mod, 3" Exhaust and snorkel (no tune) and have seen a measurable increase in fuel economy. I regularly get 12.1L /100kms which I have worked out from kms driven for litres used. I also live in hilly terrain, so it's not just on a flat highway.
@@4xoverland that will be interesting, I had the exhaust first getting 12.6lph then went the snorkel. Without naming brands it’s a larger intake size and once I fitted the snorkel it dropped to the 12.1lph. Looking forward to the rest of the series and seeing where you take this.
@@Perspari Edit: i weighed it and I was almost bang on 2600kg with full fuel. Sorry not exactly sure but it’s light. Definitely not as heavy as Andrew’s would be as I don’t leave it trip ready. From a guess of the weight with what is in it day to day It would be 2570kg. Im also using 285/75R16 AT tyres.
I get between 11.5- 12.1 totally stock, loaded to the window sills with work gear, Prob 250-300 kg. I'd estimate a fair share of all speed zones up to 80kmh in terms of kilometres travelled. Have done a reasonable but not huge amount of highway 110km/h work & it seems to use more here but have zero verification. Just my thoughts with 8500 on the clock 👍
Your fuel consumption was higher than expected because you fitted wider, heavier mud terrain tyres. Simple as that. It is costing you the best part of 2 L/100km on both the highway and on desert sand. On my 2019 Canning trip (2019 Troopy) I used 108L between Billiluna and Kunawarritji and 138L between Kunawarritji and Wiluna. I know your trip this year was harder because of overgrowth. I still run the stock Bridgestone D697 tyres on the skinny tubeless rims - I know you have a bias against Bridgestone tyres - but the skinnies are very light at 29kgs each and when aired down to 15psi cold, they roll over the sand very easily. That is why Toyota use them. I do a few desert trips each year in the company of other vehicles and the vehicles with skinny tyres win everytime regarding fuel.
Hi Andrew. Modern engines are fly by wire control. The throttle pedal is a variable voltage device that effectively changes voltage in response to pedal position. All a throttle controller does is speed up or slow down this voltage change for a given distance travelled by the throttle pedal under your foot. The faster this voltage changes, the more responsive the vehicle appears to be (although the same can be achieved, just by a lot more pedal travel).
And that's why I stick to my cable operated throttle, and clutch shitbox. No fancy electronics for me. Plain ol simple port injection petrols are simple enough and have excellent reliability. ☺
Loving the build so far👍🏼 Very interesting information about air flow. You are 100% correct that turbulence does restrict airflow, the reason why you had 97% efficiency was because the smooth edge ring created a high speed venturi effect. Air resistance pressure dropped and increased speed allowed more air to pass through. One of the principles for creating lift on an aircraft wing hence the airfoil shape. Is there a reason then to why you chose a rear facing snorkel? The air passing over the intake at speed will create excessive turbulence at the opening and create a venturi effect, same principle as a venturi vacuum system. This effect does not show on a dyno as the vehicle is static but at speed it certainly will. From discussions with donaldson engineering regarding their cyclonic filters, one of their engineers have said that their cyclonic heads do create a venturi effect at around 80km hence why they were mainly designed for dusty commercial and agricultural environments where speeds that high are rarely achieved. I would love a detailed explanation if you have data and factual information to disprove this theory as I am happy to create a fuctioning vacuum venturi design based essentialy on your current snorkel setup. It is pretty much the same princinple as a workshop vacuum brake bleeder that uses compressed air.
More power means larger forces in the engine, larger forces in the engine means more wear. It is a fallacy to think you can push more power through an engine without affecting its reliability (assuming you don't swap parts for better quality components). Whether that effect on reliability is significant is up to you. But one must accept that more power will always be a tradeoff. Let's also talk about 'upgrades', this video would make you believe that you must upgrade your brakes to do touring. This is not really true. As long as you are within GVM, your brakes should perform within safety guidelines. You will be safer and more comfortable with better brakes, but you do not need a 150k troopy to go touring. It is good to take inspiration from awesome builds like this, but I'd suggest putting these kinds of upgrades relatively low on the 'nice to have' part of your build list. If you put them high on the 'want' part of the list, you might never get around to actually travel.
I'm from the UK and always been a Land Rover guy. I'm now working in PNG and see lots of these Troopys. I could be persuaded to try one. Love this series.
I had a remap done in perth on my kitted 200 series ( 2014 GXL ) on my west coast trip, along with a lock up kit and trans remap. Anyway, when i purchased the wagon it had a pedal torq with it, one of the best things ever for removing lag. I realise theres other brands out there now that do the same thing. mate in his 79 series has one and it just makes that ute so much better.
I dont even have close to the money for a 70 series, but love a the atention to detail and the tought procces of every moedification of your amazing build, always going 1 steep ahead and closer to the unicorn ride.
Ahhh, snorkels....one of my favourite subjects these days!! I'm old......67! In my younger days I fell for the hype from the likes of Safari Snorkels and ARB and chopped into my guard/s to fit one of these whiz-bang "performance enhancers".....hahaha Then a year or two ago I watched a very good RU-vid video done by John Cadogan "Auto Expert". I don't think your channel allows me to add a link, otherwise I would do so. In a nutshell, Cadogan (who is an engineer) goes into quite some detail and his findings are that the ONLY reason you'd ever need a snorkel is in the (unlikely for most 4x4 owners) event that you were going to wade through water deeper than the factory air intake. I have a 4.5" lifted Chevy Silverado 3500 with a Banks Cold Air Ram intake, including a HUGE pod filter with a 10" mouth. If I were to drive into water deep enough to bother this air intake system, I would have 100 other things to worry about before water caused the engine to hydraulic lock. Things like all the electrical sensors, ECM, under-seat located electronics etc that would potentially be damaged by the water/mud. But here's the kicker Andrew..... You mentioned yourself, that air is problematic when asked to perform unnatural acts (my words, not yours). Yet here you are, about to ask your engine to "find" its air supply using a intake that is pointing BACKWARDS!!! So, the first thing the air, destined for the combustion process, has to do is perform a 180º turn above the cab, then be drawn through a convoluted series of twists and turns, before reaching the air box!! Go figure! It is often said that there are two good reasons for a raised air intake: 1). The air is cooler @ one meter above the factory intake. 2). There is less dust @ 1 meter above the factory intake. To both of those, Mr Cadogan calls BULLSHIT and I cannot help but to agree with him. As he so colourfully points out....try standing next to your truck, naked, and with hand on heart, tell me the air around your head is cooler than air around your willy. It's not! It may be hotter 50mm above the ground due to convection....but not airbox height compared to roof height. Dust? If you even look at the various adverts for snorkels, you'll quickly see that there is a good photo of a vehicle travelling at speed through bulldust. The photo CLEARLY shows there is little to no dust in the area above/in front of the front wheel.....the dust being kicked-up by the front wheel is noticeable ONLY behind the front wheel. Therefore, the air going into factory airbox set-up is NOT dust-laden. If you're travelling stupidly close to a vehicle ahead of you, the amount of dust your airbox is likely to ingest won't be significantly different, regardless of raised air intake or not....although the factory intake that you've just removed may have absorbed some of this dust. I would love to know whether anybody/company has ever bothered to do wind-tunnel testing of the various snorkel configurations versus standard inner-guard intake in an effort to show increased performance or dust mitigation. I doubt it! No snorkel manufacturer would dare do so, as their product would be shown to be a waste of dough.....and nobody else would have any interest in performing such testing. Good luck with your new arrangement... if I see your truck in the flesh, it will bring a smile (smirk) to my face as I realise there goes another muppet who has been sucked-in by the advertising hype.
@@philipwatt6183 great info....can you possibly point me towards any hard evidence of this please? I'm yet to see any having been published. If I were a snorkel manufacturer and was confident in the claims I was making about economy and performance, I would consider it a great marketing tool to conduct various INDEPENDANT wind-tunnel tests to prove beyond doubt the efficacy of my claims. Strangely though, all we seem to hear in the advertising blurb are terms like: "May increase power and fuel economy by up to 30%"....or whatever. The use of the terms such as "MAY" and also "UP TO" (which could also mean zero%) are the things that most people don't consider. They see the "30%" and can't roll-out and dust-off the credit card quickly enough. Muppets. Looking forward to you posting the link/s please.
I 100 percent agree, I also think depending on stock intake locations data would vary little but overall this is the truth to snorkels, even tho they look cool and can give you piece of mind to hydro locking your engine (to a degree, depending on correct sealing)
Car manufacturers like Toyota employ more PhD scientists and engineers than many universities. These professionals have access to vast design and testing facilities and test their designs for thousands of hours in an effort to optimise their offerings in terms of efficiency, life expectancy, NVH and many more factors before freezing the designs. Andrew is a very talented film
The air intake / box swap alone will significantly increase your milage. My prediction before your test results are announced. Very wise upgrades all around !
That external sun visor must create a lot of turbulence for air flowing up and over the windscreen, possibly some of your fuel economy being lost there
I agree. The sun visor is acting like a large scoop/bucket. In terms of benchmarks, I just picked up a new Troopy from Adelaide and got 8.9L/100km over the 1500 kms to Sydney.
My GX 200 series has comes with a standard "power" button that switches between "Eco" and "Power" modes. It makes a huge difference in throttle response. No more "power", just gives it to me quicker. It works very well.
not quite sure why after putting the new exhaust on the LC why did you not change the manifold to allow the gasses to exit better. The same goes for the inlet manifold an upgraded with gas flowing the head (did you do that?) would increase the performance but more important help the fuel consumption. All of which will give you far better throttle control. But as they say you are paying the money so you choose what the piper plays.
I'm very interested in the results from using both a throttle controller and engine module map. Being a 76 series owner myself (2017), my research led me to believe that both of these installed can cause confusion with the ECU, rather than only using one source of changed information going to the ECU. Looking forward to overall results with improved air in and out as well. I think fuel economy is one of the most talked about issues among 70 series owners. Great video as always Andrew.
Hey mate, we actually recommend that everyone with a tune (not just a Torqit ModuleMap) use a throttle controller, while you're increasing your power, its very beneficial to use your throttle controller to smooth out how that power is delivered
I think a built in charging pad in that bit under the ram mount would be much better than using usb cords going everywhere.Personally I mount my nav screens around eye level , not far off line of sight as I find it better ( and safer ) to see rather than taking eyes off the road or track and looking down. Just my thoughts.
Awesome. Thanks for the production. Would love to see this troopy do an Africa East Coast long Overlanding trip Cape to Algiers to check how it all stands the test of time and Overland travel with you experience and knowledge.
If your exhaust is too loud, and you want a brilliant way of reducing interior drone and noise, look up 1/4 way resonators. You’ll have the smoothest exhaust around. Also, look up Fluidampr, and ask them to build one of their products for the front of your engine.
Really interesting stuff, a hell of a lot of variables going on. Obviously your getting it sorted quality of fuel could also be a slight thing too. Anyway nice going 👍🏼, like the idea of your GPS up instead of rear mirror nice tucked away spot.
I'm really impressed that you managed to improve the fuel consumption. I know it's relatively easy to improve performance, but there's always a trade off like higher fuel consumption, faster wear, etc. But improving the performance as well as the fuel consumption is amazing. Toyota Japan should take note...
Interesting the fuel economy issue. I have a 2009 76 series in NZ and a 2008 78 series Troopy in Aus, both do 13 L/per 100km at about 100 kph. Both have the same snorkel as Andrew’s had. When I put the caravan on in Aus or car trailer with a load in NZ both go to 21L/100km. Maybe yours has something to do with the DPF as well?
Notwithstanding snorkel pressure losses and previous entertaining theories about intercooler airflow and negative or positive pressure zones over the bonnet, might we respectfully suggest fuel economy at speed might be aided by either removing the integrated air brake / sun visor, or modifying its shape so it ventilates out of the rear over the roof ?
Love your videos, thanks! Maybe you are the guy to answer this question. One can watch countless videos extolling the virtues of this or that 4x4, with objective criteria on which to base an absolute conclusion about that particular 4x4. But we also need well-designed (standardized, scientific, controlled - take your pick) comparisons among 4x4s. For example, get a Land Cruiser, Defender, Wrangler, Grenadier, and G-wagon - none of them modified or adapted - and test them simultaneously on the same test course, which has obstacles tough enough to fail, and get expert drivers to drive all vehicles. Score by performance of each vehicle on each obstacle (e.g. time), and by drivers' preferences and opinions. Voila, we have objective comparisons. I suspect that true 4x4 experts know which vehicle will excel or fail on each type of obstacle. How come this type of objective comparison is so rare?
Yes Andrew you are doing a lot at once it looks like , diesels love more air and yes the 76,78,79's are detuned compared to a 200 series as you know 200's are twin turboed . So a better flowing exhaust will work well with a better flowing intake , but the computer remaping or chip will make the big difference in power , they do say installing a fan on your intercooler will help as well.
Thanks Andrew. The rear disc brakes in the South Africa spec has been removed due to customer demand. Most of the mines, Eastern Cape and Freestate farmers complained about premature brake pad failure due to dust and mud ingress. The large diameter exhaust can be a little too loud for my liking but that is a matter of taste. The real concern with the large diameter exhaust is turbo failure. Every failed turbo that I have ever seen came off a vehicle with a exhaust modification. This is as a result of over spooling and it will affect the warranty on the turbo. All the other mods you are doing are great, I love it. My 79 DC V8 with Cassiem's camper, load bin removed, fitted on the back, no conversions to the engine or drive train only a Wild Dog suspension and I was getting 20lt / 100km. This was irrespective of the load. I have now ordered the Land Cruiser SC and having the Inkunzi camper fitted and I am hoping to get around 16lt / 100km. I weighed my Cruiser at Gerotek and got 900kg on each rear wheel and 650kg on each of the front wheels. This was with the standard tank filled and no water in the tanks and no luggage and food!
Hi Andrew, I used the Terrain Tammer stainless steel frame to my 2022 Toyota Prado and it definitely works in preventing dusting issues with the air box. I have been monitoring the air box and filter and no dust is getting past the filter edges and into the inlet manifold. Cheap easy fix instead of $1000 aftermarket alloy air box.
Hi Andrew, love your videos and detailed explanations as always, thanks for that! I do have a hypothesis on the "tube" type snorkels / air intakes, just hear me out on this; in a static situation i.e. on a dyno, I'm convinced the air flow is way better, just due to the increased flow capacity and smoother flow path these type of snorkels offer. Travelling on at highway speeds, I'm of the opinion it has a negative effect.... The tip of the snorkel is pointing towards the rear of the vehicle, hence causing a low pressure (sucking force) inside the snorkel tube. The engine now has to suck air in compared to the ram effect of say a Safari / TJM type snorkel. Would love to see some testing on this if it has been done... or maybe it can be a fun research project! Many happy km's in the Troopy and keep the videos coming!!
That is logic. Yes. I agree. Ram air makes sense. But many large diesel trucks' air intakes are raised and point backwards. And I would like to understand why.
@@4xoverland But look at the value of 0.5 x 1.2 kg/m3 x vehicle velocity in m/s squared in Pascals as "suction" from a rearward facing intake versus pressure drop in filter, intercooler, intake ducting etc
I can out perform the cruise control in my car on hilly highways just from modifying my style of driving. This is because cruise control isn't always the most efficient way, and tries it's best just to maintain the speed. Easing off uphill and slowing gathering speed uphill. So long as you're not annoying traffic behind you, this saves a lot of fuel.
I'm definitely enjoying the Troopy experiment. Sadly we don't have access to the cool (terrain tamer, etc) goodies you have in OZ. 🥺.. Carry on sir,, Merry Christmas to you and Gwen 🙏. ✌️
Interesting curve ball Andrew, I didn't expect you to do a power increase. I would love to see how you would go about it with your processes of quality control.
Andrew, I can offer you some advice about aerodynamics. You fly gliders and know about this. That sun visor I’d suggest is a huge aero brake at high speeds? Perhaps remove it on the highway and see fuel consumption improve.
Ciao Andrew, I have improved my fuel economy installing a bigger intercooler on my td5, about 5% on highway, I don't know about your v8 but I belive it would help as well.
Why don't you build your Land rover for overlanding. 3-4 inch suspension lift with remote-res shocks, 285/75R17 (all or mud-terrain tyres) winch and 30 inch light bar integrated, rated recovery point front bumper in the front. Rear bumper with spare, maxtrax, jerry cans mount, good roof rack for mounting RTT, skid plates, quality aux lights.. I mean the goes on and on.
Hi Andrew, I’d disagree that starting with a smaller (same size) intake is just as effective at passing air into your air box. If you look at any wind tunnel, they start with a large intake, a diffuser and a constricting section to accelerate air. None of this induces turbulence if the surfaces are well machined and ideally as you mentioned, have smooth corners.
Interesting approach for skipping braided steel brake line. Do you think the OEM rubber lines will sustain the extra pressure ? the 1FZ-FE headwork video is one of my fav video.
Andrew, the LR3/LR4 has the intakes on the side of the vehicles (gills?) as you know. So it puts the intake air in a low- pressure location, and thus reducing intake debris. Can you keep the intake hole on the side of the wing on the Troopy, and make a nice cover for it?
Like the G-Wagen 290GD, on the side of the wings. It's not a low or high pressure area, but even if it was, pressure differentials are low which means it makes little or no difference. But in terms of dust, it's the worst possible location for an air intake. My 290GD air intake sucked in so much dust it was terrible. On a desert trip I'd have to clean it three times. A raised intake, maybe once, if that.
Unfortunately the backward facing snorkels are very inefficient. It's not really the way it's facing, it's the shape of the entry in relation to the bend. I've tested a ram head vs backward facing at WOT using a manometer, the backward facing is orders of magnitude worse.
I've heard drag racing people claim that rear facing air scoops are actually more efficient than forward facing air filters, at least until a speed well above 100mph where the pressure building up actually is high enough to be a benefit. Before that it supposedly actually has a higher pressure bubble building up behind the protrusion of the scoop that makes that configuration more efficient. I have no idea whether that is true or not, but it seems like it'd be easy to slap a cheap manometer on the entry to the air intake and verify which configuration was more efficient. Same for the sunshade, you could easily read the pressure under it to see if it is significant. Or for that use case maybe just the taping on bits of yarn approach, with a chase car filming alongside at highway speeds.
Interested to see how many sensors the Torqit module plugs into to get it's own data? Or is it relying on the factory ECU for those inputs? I went the Safari Armax ECU upgrade on my 200 for this reason, it has a complete engine loom and is the safest way to get more power without question. There's a lot of simple overfueling map devices out there which are too risky for engine longevity
The ModuleMap reads from the OBDII port of your vehicle to get its data, it's much more like a traditional tune than the Armax ECU upgrade which lives in the vehicle permanently
Dang Andrew if ide have known you wanted an afternarket throttle mod ide have told you about the BANKS POWER PEDDLE MONSTER. Best and safest on the market by far. Check out Gale Banks stuff. Hes been leading the after market street legal emmision engine mods for 40 plus years. His main business is to supply US military but recent years opened up to the general public. Hes also the grandfather of both petrol and diesel turbocharging.
I've heard all kinds of horror stories about stock 200 series air boxes dusting motors. Presumably, the Torqit products seal better? Hopefully, it all works out.
How does these performances upgrade affect your insurance…..? Also how do you get insurance for a build like your Troopy, the replacement value is far more with all the mods than the cost of a standard new Troopy. While we’re on insurance how does breakdown cover work if your off in the outback and personal health insurance if your taken ill or your injured while out bush. Maybe this could be a topic for a future video and add in first aid kits and grab bags (which I know you’ve covered in an old video) but I feel it all ties in and you may have updated your kit or added things like a Garmin In Reach type things along with your Sat Phone. Sat Phones could be another inclusion (Costs, Plans, Types etc) if they are worth it and when they start to become a must have over other options…. Keep up the great work….👍🏻🍻
@@4xoverland - WOW that’s scary; you spend 90k+ on a Troopy then 10’s k more modifying it, but if something happens to it the day after it’s completed (Stolen etc) you get back less than 90k…. I was expecting specialist insurers that would also cover the costs of the mods; over time as everything ages you’d get back less as in standard motor insurance but you’d get something towards your mods.
Hi Andrew, I find the ABS in the 79 that I have rather scary coming download where I need the wheels to lock up but I find myself just sliding down. Can you comment on how if possible if this improved by you recent brake upgrades since the ABS programme is not changed with bigger discs, booster and better pads.
Airflow. That's why your engine ECU uses a MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor to calculate fuel injection. The RAI increases noise and decreases performance, but should have no significant impact on fuel economy.
Andrew you are so brave to comment on air flow stuff considering your previous kerfuffle with the bonnet scoop thing. BTW, having trouble finding that vid. Seems to have vanished.
Kerfuffle? Despite the invitation, nobody has proved me wrong. The idea still has merit. John Cadogan was part right, and part wrong in his assumptions.
Also Andrew would like to know more about your 12v electrical system as i have herd you have got the 3000w inverter but what battery or batteries and charging system car,solar and 240v ?? I would think you had Hina do it all for you with your help of cause and the Egon DC hub .. Cheers Greg .
Always entertaining but just one trivial thing Andrew . Correct me if I’m wrong but you said fly-by-wire. It’s drive-by-wire…Fly is for aeroplanes . Steve
Hi Andrew. Great video, I don't know if you've answered this in the past. But I'm looking at getting my first watch. I really like the look of yours, what model is it? Do you wear it outdoors? Whilst doing work on the car or building things?
Calm down people!! He hasn’t lost it !! Just account got hacked I guess !! PVS-ok, exhaust mods - wow !! Throttle controller - crossed the line !!! My god !! NOT STAINO SNORKEL!!!!
@@4xoverland No judgement at all its your car I respect whatever you do with it, watching it or leaving the channel is my option. However Aspw is supposed to be david attenborough of 4wd and overland!! And we liked it !! Mighty 78 was a wholesome car !! And then that snorkel !! Safe to say there was no other aspw on the tube, experienced, profound, and delight to watch, why yobifing ? Keep the rainbow worrier as is, not a oil-tanker
I knew I would be accused of yobbifying my Troopy by doing this. However the only other snorkel that will provide this much flow is the Safari Armaz, and that is too ugly for me. And fuel consumption figures are in, and I achieved what I had hoped.
Will be interested to see how module increases boost control, overspeeding factory turbos isn’t good for reliability, most remaps drop afr’s from 22 to around 17 , that’s how they get the power increase
The 70's are terrible as standard but I love mine will never sell it. I don't think I could do that stainless snorkel having to butcher the guard horrible. Changed mine to the TJM one just bolted straight in looks better than the standard and works as a snorkel.
Air intake pressure and CFM is controlled by the turbo, everything upstream of the turbo can be changed to however you like, it's not going to make an ounce of difference of the piston side of the turbo!
Indeed. Is that not what I said?. I was talking about the shape of the engine nacelles. One is designed for low turbulence air intake flow (turbo fan) and the other not. And why they are different.
Hi Andrew! not a troopy masterclass related but Landcruiser related overall, For how long do you think will the 1HZ engine continue to exist ( focusing on the African market) and what do you think Toyota will replace it with? looking at Toyota's parts bin, is the market profitable enough to develop or modernize the 1hz? hopefully you havent answered this question before
A lot longer than the D4D V8. Its the perfect engine for NGOs. V8 is on its way out. 1HZ is here for a while but limited to NGO sales. Soon to be stopped for the public.
I’ll be surprised if the throttle controller improves your fuel economy, if anything, based on my experience, it will make it worse. I’ve had an IDrive in my 76 for some time, & when cruising (at highway speeds) it uses more fuel, so I only use it to pass trucks or launch on Sandhills). ECU tune is the go, if done by a reputable tuner. The unichip I had fitted was a disaster, gave me & the installer so much trouble they gave my money back.
like the troopy ......wish we could get a useful. overlander like this in the U.S. we have nothing worth buying all our wagons have. "a independent rear axel for a smooth ride and leg room for the 3rd row , 2nd row ent screens 2 sun roofs leather " every thing is a luxury wagons SUV
Agreed. Would love a decent priced troopy here in the states. The ineos grenadier sparked my interest originally but I fear the US pricing will be a buzz kill for me. I’ll stick with my cheap LR discos for now.
@@jasonrew549 might be able to build a basic base model ineos grenadier toyota wants to bring the LC back to the U.S . hope they do a more off road than a 3 row overpriced luxury wagon like the old LC 200 was
the Fuel economy on the V8s is horrible my old 75 with a heavy ass steel tray is doing 13/100 and its well in need if a overhaul of the injectors and distributor pump.
1.-Weird assumption about drum brake, when I know 60% (even more) braking is done in the front axle (Theory: front rotor from Portugal assembly is smaller?) 2.- Not faster, linear (in reference to the pedal).
Well, science aside, I have owned similar Troopys in Africa, with drum brakes. They they are truly terrible! It's a well known fact, discs are far, far more effective than drums. Less peddle pressure, easier to maintain as well. But more expensive mainly due to the fact that the hand brake needs drums to work (in most designs)
I would not tweak the ECU to get more power out of these, they have enough power as they are and anything that’s done to it can affect the Toyota reliability. OEM rotors pads and booster should be awesome on these are already because they are already a heavy duty vehicle.
