John, Thank you for making time to put another episode together about the Corvair. Very fun & entertaining! I want the episode to go on for hours. In addition, the two A/C vents are just right, mate!
Greetings John, When our creator handed patience, you must be in front of the line. Excellent fabrication continuous. Loved the A/C vents, bodywork and the rear inner body panels. Looking forward for the next episode.
Always amazing to see an “old-school” craftsman with a “perfectionist/engineer” mind shoot a POV video, and explain things in layman’s terms for the rest of us tech’ slags…😂
Hello John, I’ve seen many guys in the custom car world use 1/4” rod blended in when cutting the roof rails off to help maintain the integrity. Hope this helps, food for thought.
When I built my `66 Corsa Crown conversion 45 years ago, I had similar issues. Wound up putting 53 patches in that body, sorta the way you did, except I brazed everything. Turned out pretty good though, considering that I was by no stretch a body & fender guy....Your work is exceptional !
Those embossed panels just fascinate me. I learned to use lead in Bodywork at trade school back in the seventies. I repaired the rust on Judge Hooper’s 30’s Mercedes with lead just in time for the annual parade. For a wild young hippie in a town of three traffic lights, scoring points with the Judge was invaluable. Happily that was the last Lead job I did. Last of the Mohicans as it were. Cheers John. Fun stuff as usual.
I owned and drove three Corvair coupes in the 80s and 90s. I loved everything about them except for the maintenance, washing (sharp corners and difficult access), repairs, rust control, horsepower, heater and ground clearance. Mileage was good (28-34mpg)! I love your attention to detail and your quality workmanship, but I said "eek!" when you tore into the A-pillar rot. Been there!
.023 with 75/25 makes patch panels much easier. I'm not in love with the a/c vents. I wouldn't offer that opinion, except you asked, because they match in with the interior well.
My OCD would have spent 90 hours to roll the divider rib in the aluminum panels to match the roll bar radius...which would have added greatly to my alum recycle bin.😆
nice work, yes 0.23 would be better on bodywork, and the A pillar, where you cut at 90 degrees to the pillar, for strength it's better to cut diagonally across, early on in my career l had a job welding crashed cars back together completely legit all inspected by inspector that we had to pass, one of my first l was advised that the joints would be stronger had l cut on a diagonal and joined the joints, also some additional material added, and plug welded above, and below the joints.
OK... I got a John Reynolds video for my Birthday... well tomorrow but it is within the cone of uncertainty. imho - I think the vents might be sticking out too far. But I will defer to the master metal basher.
Tip If you’re going to use bondo on areas that used lead, use quality fibre reinforced dondo and make sure it has a good key into the metal. Due to body flex cracks will form in the finished paint if you use ordinary bondo . How do I know? Been there done that wasted hours on redoing it.
im doing a restoration on a Porsche 356a and the metal is abysmally pitted over every inch of the surface so all my welds look like those. and I cant just "replace" the bad metal because that would literally be the entire car and the owner wants "original metal" so im only patching what I absolutely have to and he can feel free to spend out the ass for it because we bill by the hour. the original metal is so bad and pitted that its effectively only a third as dense as it should be so it constantly blows out when I try to weld to it even on my lowest settings and what doesnt blow out pops and explodes because of contaminated literally embedded in the metal. anyways my point being people can shit talk booger welds all they want but they dont understand what its like working on old sheet metal. its also very good practice for my 63 corvair sitting at the back of the shop lol.
6:59 what does a reamer with a blocked off end mean and do? This looks like it would solve so many issues I've had in the past, but I would naively set the depth manually.
I don't know if you've seen the rest of the dash, but protrudes past the vents. The other thing is I have to keep moving forward or this thing will never get done. I get what you are saying though.
John loves your videos but PLEASE move slightly away from the mic, it will help with audio quality/enjoyment. It's quite a problem (for me) in the beginning with constant exhale blowouts.
