A shop that makes money by servicing these bikes making a free video...for the back yard guys doing it themselves......classy man. Thank you for this. Very cool of you. Your site is now on my list.
craig a It is always a good thing to put a dab of an anti-seize paste on sparking plug threads, the steel to aluminium sometime seizes, this prevents this occurring.
@@craigauckram1087 Don't do that. Aluminium head, steel spark plug and copper grease plus high voltage electricity = electrolytic reaction. The head corrodes, and then the spark plug shoots out. Do set the spark plug to the correct gap. They come out of the box at 0.90mm which is incorrect. Too large a gap and they misfire at high revs.
@@craigauckram1087 I've been using anti-sieze for 45 or 50 years. It's messy, so use sparingly! Also, I always change the aluminum washer on the drain plug. And sometimes even use a torque wrench just for fun.
You can not go wrong with a Moto Guzzi. Very easy to work onI. I have a 2018 v7 III special. I ride it to work everyday! Some days I want to pass work and keep riding…😂
So useful to folks who are just getting started and building confidence on wrenching on their own bikes. I hope Piaggio knows that this is the sort of content that sells motorcycles.
Thanks for this, Todd & team. Appreciate your passion for giving back to the Guzzi community with both parts and instructional videos like this. Y'all rock.
Wow. The perpendicular design of the engine makes valve adjustment look like a breeze. Even more of a reason for me to one day own one of these machines.
@@CapitanTavish the shape of the engine doesnt matter. Its transverse, so the engine layout itself is perpendicular, the angle of the pistons means nothing
@@CapitanTavish BMW is horizontally opposed. There's no such thing as a "perpendicular" engine except in relation to the direction the bike travels, which is what he was saying. I sense the Dunning Kruger is strong in this one. 😂
My 1975 Guzzi T3 was most reliable / best motorcycle I have owned & have owned a bunch ! Am glad you did the valve adjustment portion as I will not own a "shim-under bucket" ! I want to be able to completely service the bike myself. Thank You RH
Quick follow up: I just changed the gear box and shaft drive (transmission) oil on my V7iii last week. It was pretty easy. The service manual I found on-line helped a lot. This is my first bike with gear oil...man, that stuff smells funky when you drain it. (Like rotten eggs.) Make sure to wear gloves and do it outside if possible, my garage smelled for a few days. (On the V7iii the gear oil drains down on the exhaust cross bar that runs under the bike, due to the placement of the drain plug. I covered that it in tinfoil, which turned out to be a good idea. I didn't end up getting smelly gear oil all over the exhaust cross bar.)
Vic's Garage the gear box and transmission (or rear shaft drive) oil don't have to be changed very often, much less than regular engine oil, but I don't have the exact numbers. I think mine was good for another 20k miles or so after changing it. I sold the bike so I can't check the manual for service intervals. You can find a manual on line and it will have the service intervals listed. I probably didn't need to change gear box and shaft drive oil but the previous owner said he had a friend do his initial break in service, so I wasn't sure what was done. I tend to over change my oils just to get safe. Now I only have one bike in my garage (an old Honda CB750) and it only has one type of oil to change.
The way i adjust my 2016 Eldorado is leave the back wheel on the ground. Put the bike in neutral. On the front of the engine between the horns is a rubber plug. Remove plug and use a socket wrench to turn the engine from there. It works really great. My face is inches away from the valves. Not so when i turn the back wheel. Also, i use wooden skewers in the spark plug holes to monitor piston TDC.
I agree with James Haydon. This is the clearest instruction video for oil change and valve clearance check and adjustment for the V7 I've seen to date too! With little gems of experience scattered in! Kudos to GTM!
Knowing that it’s hard to find knowledgeable garages that services Guzzis and you guys teaching us step by step is just legend! Would work on my v9 while watching this!
Excellent video. Other than the beautiful styling, the main reason I traded in my old Ninja 400 for a V7 Stone is the Guzzi's raw simplicity and ease of maintenance.
It's been years since I had a Guzzi in the stable, but I remember doing the valves was VERY simple, this video reminded me of that. Using a straw to determine top-dead center is a good idea, I used a chop stick or shish kabob skewer. I have a '23 V7 Special Edition, so this video will definitely come in handy. Also have a '24 V100 Navale, so not so much on that bike. But great video, easy to follow, plain language, nicely done!
Thank you! This was exactly what I needed to complete my bike’s first service (and MY first-ever bike service). I was afraid there might be some weird tools necessary, but that is not the case (except that I’d HIGHLY recommend GT Moto’s oil cap tool!) All-in-all am easy process and I appreciate the added knowledge on my bike that comes from doing it myself.
you've got a new subscriber here. You covered valve adjustment and an oil change in 15 minutes. so many 15 minute tutorial videos include 10 minutes of waffle and 5 minutes of actual content, and half the time they don't know what they're doing!! lol
Amazing video. Extremely useful, practical material, well photo’d and edited, and best of all, no droning on about peripheral crap, straight to the point. Thx!
Great video, thank you. I am interested where you got the valve clearances from. You mention intake 0.005 and exhaust 0.007. The V7 III manual says 0.0039 (.10mm) and 0.0059 (.15mm)
I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken. In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches). There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).
I would suggest a couple changes! I wouold Never use pliers on the adjusters, use a small wrench, preferably a correct wrench-not an adjustable as was suggested. A bit of copper based anti sieze paste is highly recommended when installing any spark plug into an aluminum head; I would suggest putting some on those exhaust header threads where the pipes bolt to the head. I would also replace the rusty nuts with ss nuts. At about 7:55 this mechanic lets the wrench slip and almost dings the tank! that is not how to do it! I suggest putting the wrench on the nut and hold it down on the nut with your left hand, then give the wrench a bump with the open palm of your right hand. no risk of damage!
Hi Todd, thank you very much for the excellent and very educational video. My name is Guillermo and I am greeting you from Argentina. I see that you set the intake and exhaust to 0.005 and 0.007 respectively. On the contrary, the service manual indicates 0.004 and 0.006. Could you please explain to me the reason why you set 0.005 and 0.007?
Nice video. I see that dipstick measurement on guzzis is whole science :-) V7II has measurement done without dipstick tightened V7III with tightened. Maybe that is reason why V7III came overfilled from dealer's first service (oil all the way on cross-hatched area even on cold)
I got my '22 back from its first service at EuroCycles Sonoma. It was leaking oil so bad I had to trailer it back. When I picked it up I noticed it was missing the front brake light switch. loaned to another bike. Riding home 15 miles later the R. side exhaust was falling off for lack of the mounting bolt...Removed to replace a faulty rear wheel
I have been weighing several bikes and I think you just sold me on the Moto Guzzi. Very simply, this is something I can do. I started driving air-cooled VWs. My first car was a '74 Thing (Type 181) and my first motorcycle was a Honga CL 90. I say this to point out that the level of wrenching I saw did not look unfamiliar in any way. I am hundreds of miles from any dealer, no matter the Make, and so self-maintenance will be a must. The only other thing I would like to have seen, as I am told it is regular service, is clutch area cleaning and lubrication along with a shaft fluid change. In all, a great video.
Todd, do you recommend taking the timing cover off for V7II? I have a slight weep by the timing wire gasket that I'm not keen to tackle just yet (any advice?) Are you also advising that the oil level should be at the "min" fill mark on the stick? That check be done fully threaded / cold? I have had oil returned to the airbox (maybe about a cm or so of oil) usually indicating that i've overfilled. I've never had air filter issues because of it. Thought this would be okay as there is no return to the sump on the V7II. Thoughts?
Today I decided to go for the first ride this year. I also have 2017 V7 ( I did oil change mid riding season last year and probably done under 2000k after that. . .I have note done valve adjustmentat that time) I let the bike run 10-15 min. When I put it in gear and 2nd gear it started flashing warning ⚠️ signal and wouldn't go pass 30km/h. . .no other indicators came on. I have noticed the tire pressure seems a bit lower then normal, but that should have come up as a warning on a digital display. So I am perplexed to what that might be. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Q&A is only for our Forum; www.guzzitech.com/forums/ -- see you there. In short; Inflate your tires, check your Traction Control setting (see your owner's manual), and all will return to normal for you.
As a retired auto and motorcycle mechanic, it's so refreshing to me to see things being done WITHOUT every single drain plug and adjustment and fastener being cranked on and off with power tools. I was beginning to think maybe that was forbidden in RU-vid videos? When did Moto Guzzi V7s get oil filters that can be changed without dropping the oil pan? That was always one of the main things stopping me from buying one.
Barry, we still mostly hand wrench in our workshop. The small blocks have had this style filter forever. The big block Guzzis have had easy access spin on/off filters since 2006 to current. They are magical machines.
Overall very well done. Like BMW airhead boxers valve service is super simple. Unlike newer tech OHC engines where it may take an hour just to get to the valve cover, then if adjustment is needed cams may need to be removed and shims replaced. The oil change was straight forward, just wish they would use a spin-on filter. I would have started the engine briefly to allow oil to fill the new dry filter before the final level check.
Thanks, true. Several obvious steps we left out, like starting the engine prior to checking the final level. Some common sense applies. We didn’t post this to get critiqued, more to show those with less knowledge on what’s entailed. We always recommend someone knowledgeable or those somewhat versed in wrenching of course.
Do you set valves with a cold engine (as per service manual)? You appear to have gone straight from draining oil, which is usually done warm, to setting the valves.
There's a bit of an issue concerning valve clearances with the V7 III. The V7 III service manual says .004" and .006" but underneath the seat there is a sticker that says .006" and .008". I called many Moto Guzzi dealerships across the US today; 9 out of 13 say they reference the service manual. Then I spoke with the piaggio group customer care about this; They said the sticker is correct stating that the US and CA versions have an evap sensor to meet emissions and because of this the valve clearances should be set to .006" and .008". Then I proceeded to tell her about all the dealerships that refer to the service manual accessed through the piaggio group dealership portal. Even though my dealership does the .006" and .008", I told them to go .005" and .007" ...Split the difference just GT MotoCycles.
Great video, The manual is poorly written, Guzzi cheaped out when they wrote it. Also I had 3 dealers work on my V7 and they all overfilled the fluids on a cross county trip. I had gear oil coming out on my boot and motor oil in the breather.
Hi Jesse, thinking in buying a V7 but reading some of the threads regarding to electronics reliability is affecting my decision. What's your experience? TIA Paulo
I have a V7 III 2017 model, the twin of the bike in this video. The Moto Guzzi V7 III Stone maintenance and repair manual, which I purchased from Moto Guzzi indicates the valve clearance is .010 intake and .015 exhaust. This is on page 58 of the manual in the Maintenance section. Who's correct?
I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken. In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches). There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).
Hello! I really liked your video. I have a question for you, is it possible to service MG without having a dealer, it's just that these are so unique and distinctive bikes that I just don't see an alternative to them? For more than a hundred years, bikes have been produced at the same factory, almost manually, who can "boast" about it now. Thanks!
Just a quick question: so, if I understand correctly, you only move te back wheel once to Top dead Center (TDC) as mentioned in the video point 3:36 minutes, then find TDC, now you don't touch the back wheel and check both intake and out take valve, and if needed, adjust. Is this correct?
Thanks for the tutorial. For the valve adjustment portion of the video, would the process be the same for a 2014 V7 (North American spec)? Where can I find the stock valve gaps for the valves for the 2014 motor? Thanks James
Thank you so much for the video posting! I'm looking into buying a Moto Guzzi for the 2023 season. THIS is one of the big reasons I'm interested because thy are still suitable for the home mechanic to keep serviced.
I hope you have time answer this. Do you recommend the same slightly-modified-from -the factory procedure for measuring oil level with the dipstick screwed in and only filling to the first mark for a 2016V7II?
Thank you for this video my nearest Moto Guzzi shop is 400 miles away! Do you have a video on removing the front and rear wheels when I’m ready to change the tires?
Thank you for service video,just I have one question ,when you tight the oil bolt on how low you push on tool?how Nm for tight oil bolt,and oil filter? Thank you 👍
I'm a little confused about how you get the piston to TDC. You have to rotate the rear wheel to get the intake valve all the way down, but then you also have to rotate the rear wheel to get the piston to rise. So wouldn't that mean you're changing the position of the intake valve as you're raising the piston to TDC?
Yep. Me and my mate have discussed this. I think the correct metric volume is 2.2 litres. It doesnt seem like much...the oil would be working pretty hard. My 500 kwaka takes 3.4 litres...but like he says it lubes the clutch and gearbox too. If I owned the guzzi, I would probably change the oil a bit earlier, maybe 5k kilometres instead of 5k miles. Another option is to fit a deeper sump to increase the volume. Apparently they are available.
I love these maintenance videos. It makes me consider buying one as o can then run it cheaply and properly. I hate money pits being working class on basic minimum wage
Excellent video my friend. It gave me the confidence to go ahead and try it myself. One question? Do you know how to reset the maintenance icon on the dash?
Is this pretty much the same for a v7 ii? Was planning to do the oil for the first time soon but I could also have a look at the valves if it’s this simple.
@@robertparisi8016 all dealers, whether powersports or cars, overcharge for service. They're probably charging $30+ per quart of oil, so $60+, then $20-30 for the oil filter, throw in another $10 for two $0.50 crush washers and bill out 2 hours shop labor at $100/hr...there's your $400 service friend.
