www.carburetor... is happy to provide this video about the Motorcraft 2100 choke system and how it works. Find 2100 parts here: www.carburetor... 2100 Troubleshooting Articles: www.carburetor...
Great carbs! I have run into a situation where my choke would come back on driving down a cold highway. My problem turned out to be the heat riser tubes were rusty on the inside and blocked the exhaust heat from warming the choke. Compressed air fixed that problem but what surprised me was that the hot coolant hose did not supply enough heat to keep the choke off. Just a note for anyone running into a similar situation. Thanks for the video, sir.
I cannot thank you enough for this! I’ve been struggling to get a carb back together that I completely disassembled without knowing what I was doing or paying too much attention. This is a great explanation of how things work and go together. Will definitely be sending some business your way!! Thank you again!
If I have no stove-pipe connected on my ‘68 2100 (added headers) for hot air, and DO NOT have the electric choke, and do not have the pull-down vacuum device on the top either…should I plug the threaded port OR leave it open to the atmosphere? I really am not sure here. There’s a bracket attached to the side of the choke housing to keep it warm. Thanks. 🇨🇦
Hi, I Liked your video, just a quick question, I have a 2150 that have a choke with a tube to get hot air and a eletric plug. Can I close the air tube and use just a eletric system? Thank you.
My choke stays open about 15-20 degrees in a cold state off the car. Could something be broke on my thermal choke or something else be hooked up wrong?
Good info on the choke, but mine does not have a piston, and unlike your carb, mine has electric tab on the choke housing. Is this an electric choke, so no piston inside of the housing to set with the paperclip?
Just ordered a venturi check weight from you guys. I was just wondering what happens when I don't have one installed? Mine was missing and my carb was overflowing. Hope it fixes the problem.
Where I can find a re manufactured carburetor just like that one? I have a 74 F250 with that kind of carburetor but I can’t find one no where any help?
LMFAO, Mike how do you set the Choke idle because I've managed to have it so high to the point I have to shut it off and manually disengage it because it's staying open
Hello Mike. My 2100, the choke wont close on a cold start. When i hit the pedal, i puts fuel in the carb, but the choke stays open. I have to close it by hand every time. It opens just fine as it warms up. Then i have to close it by hand again on the next cold start. Ideas? Tips? Im new to this, so please be gentle.
Do you press the gas once to allow the fast idle to set and relax the choke linkage? The thermostat may not be set. With the throttle open, twist the thermostat until the choke valve closes, then give it another 1/8 turn to preload. Move the choke valve open and closed to feel any binding. Also see: www.carburetor-parts.com/2100-hard-to-start
I have a 1970 F250, 360 (5.9L) that I think the Motorcraft 2100 was the stock carb. Mine did not have the stock on it when I bought it. I was trying to determine if finding a 2100 was best or if something like a Holley 2300, 350 or 500 CFM, model 80500 would be better?
Have you ever ran into a problem where the choke cap hardly fits onto the choke assembly? I was just able to get mine on and set the butterfly but beyond that it is too tight to turn anymore. I know there are a few adjustments that require you to turn the choke cap 90 degrees rich but with my cap there is no way.
Hi, friend! Do you have manual for carb 2100? What is the basis for opening and closing the choke suction? Is it powered electrically from some kind of sensor? or through the engine cooling hoses?
ok so engine cold set the choke closed and a tad more..then if it ides to high do I turn the choke idle down? and of course set idle when it warms up on the throttle side...also I have the heat tube and the electric choke should I use both? or just use the electric choke?..and is the voltage to the electric choke ok to be 12v? thanks
Hey Mike, i recently did a rebuild with a new choke pull off but now there is a lot of noise coming from it compared to before... Everything appears to be tight... Any concern there?
Mike, do you know where I can get that hot air tube brass fitting? My threads got mangled during the rebuild and I can't reconnect the hot air tube? (About the 6 minute mark)
I was also wondering if you had any advice for when I'm starting my truck... if the motor is cold, she fires right up! but when the motor is warm, it takes a bit to get her to turn over. Any adjusts i could do to help with that? Thanks a lot for the video and any help is much appreciated
My manual for my 72 ltd with the 400 and a 2150 carb says on a hot start hold throttle down half way and turn motor over until it fires. I use this method and have no problem firing up every time after 2 or 3 seconds. Hopefully 4 years passed you still have the vehicle
I think its worse trying to get a vehicles "running" carb going that someone has monkeyed with, than a non working carb. The 2bbl on an old 400 Im piddling with is giving me fits. Im having issues where one day it runs fantastic, next day it belches black smoke 'cause the butterfly wont open when warm. Everything seems to move freely. Bout to just say screw it and buy a new carb.lol Thanks for the vid.