Motorized Bike Clutch Adjustment Tips & Secrets to Know 

good idea thanks it’s better than freaking using pliers

Why is Rihanna subscribed to this dude lmao

Thanks

I’ve been watching the channel for years never had a clue about him working on motorized bikes n I just got one last month I been scootin around on

@@MrPunkrocker2012 fuck yea brother, what you puttin on? What kind of motor?

Im having the same problem 😑😢😢😢

No it just needs a good tune. If you tune it right it will go top speed I've seen these things go faster than 35 mph just gotta tune them and sometimes upgrade them

I think it's not sitting right

Thats ur clutch not working i had the same prob

Yep. It should slow down. Close the choke and hold the prime button. The first fire up takes about 30 seconds. Find a move hill, get up to speed, and let out the clutch with the choke closed and holding the prime - do this for ten seconds then open the choke and continue holding the prime. Shell light 👍

its ben a while so I'm assuming u either figured it out or gave up but if not I suggest trying to tighten the castle nut

My throttle and clutch both feel way tighter than the used pre built motorized bike i bought. I built my own brand new and just finished today put gas in it havent got it running yet I need to shorten my chain again ugh

(RGV?! HeyO!!). Late reply, but I hope this help! Remove all slack from the cable! Snug that sucker up starting from the clutch lever on your handle bars, working your way back to Tue clutch lever on the motor. • Loosen up the main nut until the clutch plate has enough play that you can wiggle it slightly with your fingers..(you may need to engage your clutch for this) • Leave the clutch lever unlocked/free/alone as well as the clutch plate, and snug up the main nut with your fingers until your fingers can't (don't force yourself, but get it good) once your good and snug, engage your clutch by any lever, and give that nut ¼-½ turn more, and you should have a good clutch engage/disengagement. *•MAKE SURE YOU PUT THAT LITTLE SCREW BACK IN THE CLUTCH PLATE!•* it locks the main but, and keeps it from slipping! • Remember as the video said, make sure ALL your lines are snug.. The cable can be flopping about, but if there is slack in the line, you lose pull until the slack is gone, so makes sure you don't have a loose wire sleave and excess slack..

You need a new cover that goes over the small sprocket. It has a built in notch that the cam offset of clutch cover catches on when parallel with cover. You can sometimes add a small screw into it then grind off the head of screw thus creating a new pin to lock in the pin to the case cover

But my problem is that it doesn't fully disengage or in gage. I have to get pedaling and manually pull the arm over then it engages fine i thought it may have been the pads getting old but now i feel it if the basket not I I just did right could also be I need a little bit longer buckyball depends that pushes it if you know what I mean I do want to get some heavy duty springs to put it back in place so I don't have to do it by hand

@@joerillarilla8524 man i hope you found your answer! my thought (a year later) is check the preload on the drive spring behind the clutch. you can loosen or tighten it without removing everything if you pull out the post for the clutch line where the heat spring rests and put the end of a small screwdriver, allen key, etc in and slowly rotate. you'll feel it drop into one of the slots on the internal flower nut that sets the tension. hold it in place and roll the bike (about a foot) forward to tighten, backward to loosen. put everything back together and check/set the flower nut on the outside again before you go. since it's a year later, i guess just general info for folks reading the comments 😎

I could answer 99% of your questions

Same

no problem...

No you have to hold you clutch in the tighter the chain the better

Bobby Kimes tighten the flower nut on the clutch plate

burntrubberballs i did that and i still couldnt get the shaft a bering to go in?? there must be something else wrong but thanks for the info, i bought a new one

Having the same issue

@@Gothguitarist I figured out the issue. You need to remove the clutch cover on the opposite side and adjust your clutch plate. You'll need to turn the flower nut 1 position counterclockwise. Hope that makes sense. If you've never messed with that part of the bike, be careful. There's a set screw you must remove before the flower nut can be adjusted and it is notorious for stripping. Pull in your clutch to release tension before trying to remove the set screw. If you strip the set screw, there's a fix for that I'll be happy to tell you about

madmax1984 are you stupid

NamerZ998 i take it you didn't understand why i asked that question i have hydraulic brakes back and front and a cluch one can work on a grip twist seeing i asked that question so long ago

Mad max 1984. I have not seen it been done. However you should be able to use a gripshift. You need to check that it rotates enough to pull the clutch full in. Bear in mind that with a gripshift you won't be a able to let go as the clutch will engage, no lock out. Or you could look at setting the gripshift tension to hold in the free position. Alternatively fit a motorcycle twist grip , check that the cable entry is in the front so that the rotation of the grip pulls the cable. This will give more cable pull to free the clutch on rotation, make sure that there is some slack when rotated back to full engage the clutch. Thee grip is full length like the throttle will be easier to hold instead of the smaller gear shift. I have built close on 20 Motorised Cycles in the last 4 years. I like your option. Good luck.

Have this issue did you fix it

+Ronny Khmai have you done the adjustments that i have demonstrated in this video?

+ThunderHead289 thanks for the help man.unfornately ..freewheel issused was becuase they were no flat key in the keyway.which now have to wait for..ahhh the pain of the 2 stroke ..def going for 4 stroke for my vintage build.

Clutch arm not hand

adjust your clutch spring

its on the right way - its an automotive filter. there is even a little arrow on it that denotes the direction of flow. looks backwards because on cars the fuel goes from low to high, where on a motorcycle the fuel goes from high to low.

+sunnylandcamper crank peddles on the bike? sure did

sunnylandcamper..only engine that require a extended crank assembly are 4 strokes...im done with 2 stroke my 2 stroke is currently collecting dust in my shed they need new clutch pads but im tired of fixing it.so i swap over to 48cc 4 stroke and build me a back one :)

Joblessalex. Can't answer your 1st question. Sounds like the clutch need tightening. Lift the bike so that the rear wheel is off the ground. 1. Slacken the cable on the clutch arm, lhs cover. 2. Take off the clutch cover ( rhs). 3. Hold the clutch lever in and check if the wheel rotates freely. If too free , then need to be tightened up. 4. Remove the locking screw on the clutch center. 5. Hold the clutch lever in and rotate the Flower nut by 2 notches. Refit the locking screw. 6. Take up the slack in the cable and lock the screw on the arm. 7. Pull in the clutch lever , on the hand bars, and lock. The rear wheel should be able to turn. Release the lever , engine should be engaged.

Which end is that? Clutch lever side or motor side?

on the clutch side, on the handlebars side, even with a properly adjusted clutch the cables would snap off after 2-3 months use, and the cables were always brand new.

I'd remove the smaller return spring in front of the release lever , as it's not needed-John in Texas@@tomcatxsl6742

Justin Johanson ? its the same. all the same. all from china.

+ThunderHead289 yep matter whos the vendor all china..

Eric Cherry same problem with my bike, what did you do to fix this? plz repl

Eric Cherry homeboy?

Eric Cherry did you end up getting a fix solution my bike is doing the same

It doesn't freely roll when not started, can't pedal. Any pointers?

@@negativetim If not able to pedal (engine off) the clutch is still engaged. Clutch is out of adjustment.

@@negativetim That is normal behavior. You have to hold the clutch disengaged if you wish to pedal.

It won't engage as in he can't disconnect the engine so it will idle, or as in it runs but you can't power the rear wheel with the engine

i have a question i just got a motorized bike i have a 49 cc two stroke engine i have heard you should release the clutch slowly and peddle when you first start the motor but how do i do this?

Maybe it is too tight on the clutch flower nut

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zAp8h9WRXwI.html loosen the flower nut I think

TARZAN HERNANDEZ details? does the engine turn over with the clutch lever released?

SAVAGE_ TARZAN up UI

Get pedaling, and release the clutch lever. Make sure it ain't all the way choked. Move the lever down a bit until it warms up, then move it halfway or so.

+Ronny Khmai oh shit, freewheels as in the engine is not connecting to the wheel. alright, im on the same page. pull your side cover off with your gears and adjust your flower nut. (the one with the screw on it) i beleive you will need to loosen this. loosen it a notch and then retry. im assuming it will take a few notches. have you looked into this?

+ThunderHead289 yes it felt like not connecting..ill give it another try maybe tommoro..sigh first my old frame broke..soon as i transfer engine to build frame freewheel issue

+ThunderHead289 ill let you know how it goes tommoro

Idle screw/speed turned up too high. Meaning you need to turn idle screw down (counter clockwise) to lower idle speed.

@@pipedreams3057 I figured it out. turns out the throttle slide was stuck wide open lol

I hope you were kidding this guy is giving bad informations

air leak or the idle is to high

Simon Taylor how is that funny?

80cc

He's using far too much clutch cable length and probably in your case: You need to disassemble the sprocket side cover and grease up the pivot, bucking-bar and ball bearing living inside the sprocket output shaft. I'd also force in a few pumps of grease under the clutch cable stop bolt under the carburetor, as the inside of the output shaft is shipped dry of any grease for the bearings and actuator

let me know if this helps at all

I know you're trying to help but you're really giving bad information and making it worse on people

Have fun with your queer little bike. And a ton of people can’t figure out how to set the cable right, where their clutch lever travel is mostly consumed by slack

The. You didn't pay attention

Of course I did big difference between telling and showing

+76guessagain I could have just not made it lol. Use your brain, if you have the ability to build the bike, you should be able to follow along with the instructional

Well if it's not helping delete it

Instructional? I didn't see you do anything but flap your gums