I absolutely love your channel. Aside from specific tutorial videos, I usually never get this deep kind of professional insight. Madison is doing a great job on this topic as well!
why do you never train routes? even if you don’t compete in them i find it’s a very good way to train endurance but also technique/efficiency which can be quite useful for boulders. also it would be really good if you are competing at high altitudes because it would give you a bit extra cardio/resistance to lung “fatigue”.
Endurance for route climbing is completely different than bouldering endurance mainly being just the individual moves of a route is probably no harder than v6 or v5 while also you can rest on a route and mostly can’t rest on boulders bc of the individual moves difficultly. This is just my experience
Yeah I agree training routes is definitely helpful for bouldering! I just find I’m also able to train endurance on the boulder wall and it’s simply more convenient for my tight schedule rather than having to coordinate a lead session with someone!
When you size your shoes, how cramped are your toes, and how much space is there above your foot on the top of the shoe? I find most non beginner models to be either comfortable for the length of my foot, but there is so much material on top that I can almost stick my hand into the shoe as well, or they're tight on top but so short that I cannot even stand up without my toes being bunched so hard it hurts too much to weigh the feet. I'm using tenqya oasi LV now, but probably still too small. Is it fine to have the top be a bit flappy while off the wall? Staff in uk gyms often can't really answer this. I hope the qualifiers went well, and good luck with the round today!
I usually go super tight with a comp pair of shoes, but for my training pair I go a half size up to optimize for comfort! I think shoes definitely don’t always need to be painfully tight in order to perform well, and for many years I actually climbed in shoes that were the same size as my street shoes! If your shoes are hurting too much climbing will not be enjoyable, so definitely size up a bit!
epic tv (on youtube) tested break in periods with 3 types. "the oven" "in the freezer" and in "warm water. i think its bullshit. maybe the water is ok because you can wear them immidiatly but whats the point if they widen without your foot being in it. it just streches in a random shape. you want the stretch to be like your foot right.
The point about ovening the shoes is actually much more valid than it sounds as almost all skaters do the same this just in the microwave. also I would be curious about your opinion on the optimal amount of rest days as I find that its a hard balance to keep. Thanks
I’ve been watching your channel for a while now, and I really enjoyed each video you make, they are very informative and I’ve been able to apply some of your tactics when climbing or competing at comps. Btw I was wondering how much you recommend downsizing on the TN pros for a performance fit? Keep up the good work !
Thanks that’s great to hear! 🙏 I wear size 40.5 EU VSR, 40 EU Sportiva Solution/Futura, 8.5 US Hiangle pro, and 9.5 US street shoe. Right now I’m wearing my TNs at a size 9 US to optimize for comfort, but I also want to get a pair of size 8.5 US for a comp performance pair! Hope that helps!
That's such cool beta on the blue climb at 12:45 - I was too scared to do anything dynamic on the no-tex hold, so I ended up doing that press statically without any chalk on my left hand. Was also great to run into you at RiNo, good luck at Vail!
Wow crazy seeing much more endurance n power pros have compared to amateur climbers like myself lol I was going to ask I went to this gym as well n found myself stuck on around the v6 levels - any tips for how u broke out of that barrier? Occasionally I get 1 in a session but it isn’t consistent n have to my style- reachy / extended dead points lol Thanks n great vid
Yeah the v6 barrier is tricky for sure! Honestly I think the v6 stage is where upping your climbing volume is the key ingredient for improvement. Try to climb one more day a week, or maybe for 30min longer than usual in a session. The increase in volume should help you progress fast! Then once you are climbing v7/8 you can start experimenting with hangboard in my opinion!
Definitely more physical-style boulders, a little less comp style & less fibreglass holds overall. Quality of the setting & the boulders is just as good as some of the best gyms in MTL imo!
sick! I didn't know you were in town. nice to get some beta on some of the hardest climbs in the gym. Denver Bouldering Club central location is a pretty good size, I have only been during their local comps so i'm not sure how their regular setting is for comp style. Even less familiar with the spot, but I know their central location is probably the closest gym to you after RiNo, and I remember some cool sets and more importantly full 12x12 kilter and 12x12 tension board 2. I climb at Movement, and the Englewood is going to be 25-30 minute drive from where you're staying but it's a huge gym. RiNo has far and away the best density of good comp boulders, englewood is probably second best of the movement gyms in that regard, plus their set boulders go up to v12 or 13 and they have some pretty tall walls too. Movement Baker isn't far for you either, but I would not recommend them for slab or coordination sessions. It is a much smaller bouldering area compared to the other movement gyms, but I quite like the setting there and they always have a great selection of very hard boulders imo
Thanks for all the insider info! Super helpful ;) I just got back from an epic session at Englewood! The gym is massive and super cool! Great hard boulders as well 🙌
@@richardsonsclimbing sick! I havent been in a few weeks, psyched to see your report. will also mention G1 in broomfield. a little more out of the way, but if you havent been, it could be the best gym within an hour of denver. (have heard incredible things about the gyms in fort collins too but that's a bit far)
