I appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Same problem I am having but my goodness you made my brain hurt. I’ll just go buy a new coffee pot. Maybe with morning caffeine I can pretend to be an electrical engineer
Thanks for going through this...mine was the 2 fuses, same condition. Thermal carafes are the same, they just isolate the heating unit and shield it. The 1st thermo-cycle shuts them down.
My fuses, switches and thermostat all ohm out (bleep). My pot shows brewed when nothing has brewed (after I hit the brew button the pot immediately shows brewed when no coffee has been made) There all also 3 very faint beeps.. Thanks for the video. It is nice to see there are people who still want to fix things instead of throwing it out and buying another. Also, I sympathize with you in reference to not having any appliance parts stores in your area. There used to be several around here that now are out of business.
Agreed and thank you. If you are getting 3 beeps immediately, then you have a problem with most likely temp / high limit sensor shown in this video. Remember while testing ohms the difference between normally open vs normally closed. Which I'm assuming you already know, but it's worth mentioning to cover bases. I hope you get it fixed and thanks again for the kind words.
Great video. I think this solved my problem. Thank you. FYI the defective thermostat switch on my DRX5 Mr Coffee is model KSD301-G. About $5 online. I suppose I need the normally closed NC variety.
Thanks, thanks, and thanks. Clear, easy to follow and exactly what I needed to fix my coffee maker. I found the part Supco L145 on ebay for $8.50 shipped.
Great video. Do you have a source for the round plate the heater attaches to? I've looked everywhere and wound up making my own (4 5/8" x 20 gage). I'd like stainless steel or brass. Also I just used a 3/8" drill to drill out/off the two 'security' screw standoffs. They're not needed anyway.
Still have a Mr. Coffee machine from the late 70's or early 80's (can't remember exactly since it was my parents) the thing still works great and gets much hotter than modern machines that I have now.
30 minutes on hold with the crazy hold music while watching your video with the ohms and Watts and craziness I'm just going to go to Starbucks, but since I'm just middle class I'm going to Costco to get some more coffee
thanks for the video, el mio dejo de funcionar me duro 1 ańo y 6 meses aproximadamente mejor me compre otro es difícil hacer trabajo interno a estos aparatos luego un corto y sale peor cuestan de 17 a 25 dólares.
thermistors are normally both temp sensor and or high limit sensor. In this case, if your symptoms are 5 beeps at startup. Then Yes, high limit switch is what you need to replace. Testing would consist of checking for ohms whiling heating.
While the video did tell me how to ID the problem, (in my case it is the round thermal switch) I do not know where to get a new one from. Amazon had one at the correct (145 Deg F) rating but it does not have the Flange. Do you know where to buy the correct one for the Mr. Coffee ? I know you can not remove the flange from the old thermal switch. Thank you
What kind of screw driver would I need to take apart my Mr. Coffee maker I tried to clean it and you know Shake It Up and that nothing's working I clean it out with hot soap and water nothing and all it does my Mr. Coffee maker is beep and it will not brew any coffee
@@DrcJr77 Thanks. Maybe that's why I could never find a water pump listed as a part for this machine (ha). In a fit of impatience, while trying to empty water out of the water holder, I smacked the bottom of the machine. I thought I had messed up the water pump with that smack. But since there is no water pump, I'm at a loss to figure out why the machine sounds the "done" tone just seconds after I turn it on and why it takes an hour to brew a few cups of coffee. I'll take any advice but if you use terms like "continuity" or "board", I won't know what you're talking about.
@@markschirripa3607 If your getting 5 beeps within seconds of attempting to brew. Then this video will fix your problem. If you want to attempt. Good Luck my friend and God Bless
My KitchenAid coffee maker Model KCM1204WM not boiling the water. The fuse and thermostat were discontinued. Where can i find the compatible parts? Thanks
do you see any part numbers anywhere? I'm not actually familiar with that model, but if you can find the part numbers then it will make it a lot easier.
Thank you for your Kind comment, if you look through comments you should find where someone else found the part number and amazon as source. God Bless and Merry Christmas.
I'm not aware of a reset. One thing that could produce your issues ( outside of a short in switch ) would be your timer engaged. ( which would override switch ) Without troubleshooting it personally, it's hard to say. This is only an educated guess.
My Mr. Coffee doesn't get the coffee hot. After making a pot of coffee, it's just warm. How can I make it hot? I have to heat every cup in the microwave. It was that way when I bought it.
It's technically called a high limit sensor BUT many people also call it temp sensor, thermostat, or Hi-Limit Thermostat. Search MRCTB Automatic Hi-Limit Thermostat - Good Luck to you! Here is just one link www.ebay.com/itm/274655987637?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=274655987637&targetid=4581183927179145&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179145&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=b34fce2e15c01772189aaeeff8d7f690 Others have also used this as well www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Coffeemaker-Thermostat-145-Degree/dp/B0041LZN5Q
Hey I am in the process of replacing the ceramic snap disk thermostat. I am unsure the temperature I would need. For some reason I thought it was 95 C. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
i think i got mine from amazon if I remember correctly. The correct terminology of the part is high limit thermostat . I went with one that was 140c degree. Here is the MPN: MRCTB-110574
My Mr Coffee of many, many years developed this same problem. I opened it up and tried shorting the contacts of the temperature switch using a screwdriver and pressing the brew button. The brewing cycle started because the circuit was complete, confirming that the temp switch was open. I then removed the screwdriver, cycled the power, and tried to start the brewing cycle without shorting the switch and it started! Temporarily shorting the contacts somehow unstuck the temp switch and my Mr Coffee is again brewing the same as always.
I had 2 that did the same. 1 worked for roughly 6 brews before failing again, but the 2nd one has continued to work now for over a year. Hopefully yours will continue to work. Great Post, thanks for sharing.
@@DrcJr77 Yes, I think the temp switch sticking is an indication that its permanent failure is imminent. I've already ordered a new coffee maker based on reviews in thewirecutter. Thanks for your reply!
My 4cups mr. Coffee maker stopped brewing in middle of cycle. what should i do light is still on. I just use it twice and 😵. I already changed the water and changed the coffee filter. How can i fix it?
if it's like mine, there is a button for 4 cup brew only. If it's like mine, make sure the yellow light or the 4 cub brew isn't on. Unplugging it and waiting a few minutes and plug back in might also reset the programming.
and also is it possible or safe to just rig it with a clamp and leave it there like you did in the video? I am having the same issue as you when I held my gf Bobbie pin onto the switch I no longer got the 5 beeps and it began to heat. but I am not to sure on how to install a new switch, looks kinda technical, which was why I was wondering if I could just rig something that connects the two.? any way you can help would be greatly appreciated! thanks
no do not leave it rigged. It will cause serious issues. (destroy the pot) maybe even more damage surrounding the area. If you need a new sensor, just buy one and put it on. Very easy to do. Less than $10.00
DrcJr77 Where did you get the sensor? I have a Mr. Coffee 12-Cup Programmable Coffee Maker model BVMC-VMX36WM. Maybe same issue different model. Beeps 5 times and goes off.
Theses improved safty switches are the result of coffee maker over heating and burning through counter tops in about 5 or 10 minutes. Some died as a result in the 80's.
I've had this issue with 2 Mr. Coffees in a row within a year. As far as I'm concerned, it's not worth the time or effort. Bought a Black & Decker instead.
@@ashleynaylor6919 If you're getting 5 beeps, you won't get voltage. However with the power off and checking for ohms will be a accurate test. Also note, most of the time you will see it blown as well. (broke in half, burnt, etc) You can jump the high limit sensor like i did in the video to get an accurate test to be 100%. Good Luck
Mine is a different brand but same setup so I don’t have the beeps. I checked across both fuses for ohms and my switch is closed. I got voltage up until the 2nd fuse but nothing after it .
We just got ours, beeps 3 times. No Brew. Checked the water lines. Good. It's not even 24 hours old yet. And wife through away the box, so no return. Now what? Smash it!?
OK, if I remember correctly 3 beeps is after brew is complete. Double check filter (if it has one) and look for any taped (unpacking tape ) valves. 3 beeps means it's done brewing, or in the same sense No Water recognized It would render same error. Even if you have water. My advice is disconnect power, double check filter if it has one, check all taped valves. If all good. Well then plan B, it's probably air locked, but you shouldn't have to deal with brand new. So what you could do, Note: I don't advise this , only heard this from 3rd party. Some have said that they have bought exact same item from walmart, and put defectacted unit in box and returned as store credit. Good Luck and Happy Holidays,
That is what mines doing its weird it worked yesterday but then we had a thunderstorm and our power went off and now my Mr coffee pot won't work its just doing the 5 beep thing like yours! Any ideas why mine stopped working from power outage??
@@zeno7386 if your unsure then probably yes, some of the screws are specialty screws that you may not be able to remove without purchasing tool set. The part is like $5.00 but it may not be the hassle
What if you get the 5 beeps with no heating, but everything checks out. Switch closed, both fuses closed, and element has 15 ohms. Under power has voltage up to element but not heating. Could it be the element is bad or something on the board?
@@DrcJr77 You may be right! Thank you. I got it to work by just taking out the basket that holds the coffee. And, when I put the basket back in it still works. How do you explain that? Is there a switch hooked up to the basket somehow? I also enjoy figuring out how things work and fixing them. What is that white compound you used to reattach the senor switch to the element in your repair video?
@@ronaldreese292 Good Morning, To answer your questions, No there is no switch nor sensor that detects basket. The only thing that makes sense is your sensor was stuck open and with time or vibration it closed. (sometimes just tapping a sensor will release the relay if stuck). The white compound is a thermal compound. This is used to help transfer heat and give a more accurate reading. This will greatly help the +/- ratio of the sensor. Also keep in mind, the 5 beep is an immediate error and failed system check. (Temp/High limit sensor) You would not get an beeps from failed elements, it just wouldn't brew. I hope that answered all your questions. I do understand your passion for knowledge. 2 thumbs up for you Sir
@@ronaldreese292 I normally buy it online. It's called Thermal Compound. Artic Silver is for much higher temps, so just a generic compound would work for you. Like 7 to 10 bucks
If these coffee makers are going to be going out prematurely like this, then the best thing to do, is hop into that vehicle of yours, head on over to the Academy sports store, and buy yourself a stovetop, or camp fire percolator. No fuses, no thermostats, no waiting on parts to show up, no beeps, no error codes, and no breakdowns, when you want a nice cop of that Peets, Gloria Jeans, or Starbucks. The percolator will always work, on top of a beautiful flame.
I can’t even get the darn screws off because they are the triangle security heads. The screwdriver won’t fit down in the hole to get to the screw.🙄if they made these things more traditional there would be fewer in the land fills. This is ridiculous.
This is my 2nd Keurig coffee maker of this model. ru-vid.comUgkxBrV-RbF5Nk0Rlt9i15aao-YMzqzTG8Vf The first worked fine for more than 2 years, and I could still get a decent cup of coffee out of it if I fiddled with it when I decided to replace it. The problem I had with my first unit was this: When attempting to brew a cup of coffee, the unit would either keep brewing until the coffee was undrinkable or it would not run long enough and the coffee produced was way too strong. I cleaned the unit as best I could but it did not help. So in the end it was just too much trouble to get a good cup of coffee out of it, so I decided to replace it with a new one, which has been working great since I unpacked it.
My thermostat would test closed (working) but was shutting the heating element down before the water tank was empty. I had to restart it once or twice to finish the cycle. I proved it by pulling the thermostat away from element so it would stay cool (closed). I could then run a full tank with no problem. CAUTION: turn it off before the tank goes empty or you can overheat the element and melt the safety fuse.
I’m done buying Mr Coffee Products too.First off he’s only had his for a short time and it’s not working .Mine is turning its self on and off and mines a 1 1/2 half old.Why buy another one ! I’m going Commercial coffee makers
hello and happy holidays, actually my dad was an electrician and taught me at a very young age, however I've owned and operated a local electronic repair shop for 2 decades. The 5 beeps is almost always the sensor and not the element. I'm happy to help anyway that I can. You will need a voltmeter, which you can get one as little as 5 to 10 bucks. I love my coffee and assume you do to. If you have additional question, feel free to ask.
The temp / high limit sensor is a normal closed switch. It closes to heat and open to stop heating. I simply closed the switch by jumping the terminals for test purposes only. Once it proved to be the switch, I then replaced it.
@@DrcJr77 i am also trying to troubleshoot a coffee maker. Thermal fuse seems ok, wires are ok, im now looking at that white cylinder and switch. Switch is turning on but not sure if it's broken. I already bought a replacement switch.
@@14chstr what was your original problem? Tests should be done with power off. I'm not sure of what you mean by the white cylinder thing. Yes, testing Ohms is what you need to do to test fuses as well as temp/high limit switches. They should all show up as closed or a ( 0 ) on your meter (2K settings) , to work properly. hence the reason why I jumped the temp/high limit sensor, made it closed. (cause it was open upon testing) hope this helps
I will never buy another Mr Coffee maker. Only had a few months and broken. Waste of money. Stuff today is designed to break! Aint nobody got time for this much repair.
Bad discription... Try my making a professional trouble shoot video with no professional experience or explanation isn't helpful nor safe for others. Pls stop doing these videos. Greetings a professional trouble shooter
LOL - Problem Duplicated, Found Issue, Problem Solved. When you have nearly 3 decades of professional experience and retire early, this is what you do. Oh and we also learn to spell. Sorry professional trouble shooter, you are not a thing
Instead of wasting our time telling us all the things that weren't broken you should get to the point and tell what exactly went wrong and how you fixed it.
