For those curious about the hotter temperatures, this was improved, probably for cards manufactured after December 2022.You can see the manufacturing date of your card checking on serial number the four numbers after the letter B. The card on the video was in September 2022, so about 1 month before the launch
I just purchased the MSI RTX 4090 Suprim Liquid X from Microcenter this past Saturday, 2209 (September of 2022 build) is after the letter B of the serial number. Interesting enough they were out of stock last week prior to Saturday when I purchased it. One would think the 2022 GPU's would have already made it through the pipe line. Did a Port Royal (3Dmark) and the memory temps with the fans at 100% temp was 76C and on auto via MSI afterburner the temp was 84C. I may take the GPU back to Microcenter and look at the serial numbers and attempt to find one with a 2023 date.
@@geneg6343 ordered one from Newegg received about 2 weeks ago; after the B it’s 2307 (July 2023). hopefully 🤞 I’m good on a tear down until next year.
For those of you that may be curious. It seems that MSI has fixed the early on memory and memory junction temperature issues with the Suprim X version (AiO model) of the card at the factory. Most likely they increased the thickness of the thermal pads. My MSI Suprim X memory temps are nowhere near what was reported with the first released versions from last year. I bought mine in January 2023 from Newegg and the temps are in the mid-70s Celsius - a huge improvement from what was originally reported. So, if you are hesitant about getting the Suprim X because of that issue, I can tell you now that it has been fixed.
@John Grant Yes. The temps on the Suprim X liquid in my rig are no more than 75 C after running PCMark for a few hours. I even ran heaven and some other tools. I think it's fixed. I didnt build this Rig for gaming but ill try a couple demos to see if I can heat it up more
@Mr Video Game not without serious modifications. The AIO on the system is not designed for a custom loop. That being said you really don't need the additional Cooling. The 240 mm is more than capable of keeping it cool
@@SilverKnightPCs Hi! I'm still using MSI RTX 4090 Suprim Liquid X. I have some worries about my videocard. Could I ask a few questions please if it possible? You are pretty confident at what your are doing and there is not many people could answer it. The first question is: There is four diodes under backplate, that was lightning by default white color, but two of them got stuck at another color after time. Looks like it was bad idea to let them lightning white all the time. Once I noticed it, I've completely turned off the diodes via MSI Center Mystic Light service. The question is, can it cause any problem with other parts of the video card if these diodes will completely die? And the second question: Is it ok if vram of the videocard is heating up to 90 celsius, it slowly grow to around ~88 and can hit 90 celsius. Also GPU hot spot up to grow to ~80 and can heat up to 84 celsius? This is mostly in Cyberpunk on 4k Overdrive Path Tracing settings This is not constant temperature, it is maximum what I seen, the temperatures significantly lower if I just use 2k resolution or playing other games. The video card running at stock settings it was not overclocked. Also I have 13900k cooling system turned its air in to the PC, it CPU Package 50-65 during gameplay, and it does not feel like CPU heatsink releases hot air, it's closer to cool. So the questions is should I worry about it? I do not want to void warranty, I still have more than 2 years of it. And I've read that vram can heating up to 105 celsius and GPU can be much hotter, does it affect on GPU/memory live and performance in my case compare to lower temperatures? I'm sorry for too much info and questioning, I have not many people I could trust in such topic, you are seems really acknowledged how all of this works and have an experience with the video card I use. I'm appreciate for any response.
Greatly appreciate the time-consuming and painstaking effort that you took time to record and share with us! Great attention to detail - well done!! BTW, new subscriber 👍
Amazing Job, I know that companies save a lot of cash for mass producing such cards in quantity but I hoped for such a price to have all the enhancements you did already to be there, shame on all of them for cheaping out :/ Subbed! all love and respect.
I have a similar build to this, I have a x670e Crosshair extreme with a 7950x and the suprim 4090 liquid x, i had a 850w Corsair rmx psu and i figured it wasn’t going to cut it so I got myself a seasonic 1600w titanium. Killer rig so far.
With both stress testing and in game bench marks with the GPU at 100%, mine tops out at 60C for the GPU and 76C for the memory with the card and RAD fans at 50% (73F ambient). I can get the GPU temp a bit lower (but not the memory) by increasing the fan speed but it's only a few degrees and they are super quiet at 50% so I set the fan curve for that at load. That's with a small 90 Mhz OC just using the Nvidia Geforce auto-scan performance boost. Maybe they adjusted the cooling solution for the memory after the first batch? I got mine in March of 2023 so it wouldn't have been the first production run. Love the card's performance and temps - no complaints.
Great teardown for folks wondering about the internals and modding this card! Thanks for making this and providing so much useful information! Small feedback... At least for me, the autofocus shifting every few seconds was distracting and made it kind of difficult to watch the video, especially when it would shift and be focused on your gloves or hat, leaving the card a fuzzy blur. Thanks again and subbed! :)
@@SilverKnightPCs Oh, nice! Due to this and a couple other videos, I've decided to hold out for a Suprim Liquid X, as the build quality just seems better than the others!
@@vmalcolm we actually just got news of a batch of cards. We have 3 remaining available for order. Feel free to call us we open tomorrow at 10am EST to place an order for a Suprim Liquid
@@SilverKnightPCs Ah, sorry I missed ya! I actually snagged one from a Newegg drop alert through a Discord server a few days beforehand. I'm guessing yours didn't gather any dust sitting on the shelf... :D
Thank you so much for this highly detailed step by step teardown. It’s very useful for me since I’m planning to swap the stock cooling system to a full-cover waterblock. It’s such controversial situation on the graphics cards market when none of the vendors takes care of their loyal custmers-enthusiasts who own custom LC loops. Not a single model that would feature pre-installed waterblock out of the box and a decent components quality pcb (inno3d isn’t available in the U.S.). Ironically I like the aesthetics of Suprim Liquid X aluminum shroud. I’d love to keep it. If the pump compartment was swap-able to a third-party WB that would be my choice. I even consider the option of the stock tubing removal and to connect it to my LC loop. But the stock pump … I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep it running sequentially with my18W 600l/h Laing DDC. I’m totally fine regarding stock cooler temps. The rad is outside of the case now (there’s no room for it inside). And I haven’t seen VRam temps above 68 degrees. GPu chip hot spot was 74 degrees max at 1.05v. I would appreciate it if someone shares the experience of this particular model modification towards full-fledged liquid cooling loop.
@@SilverKnightPCs full-cober WBs, there are plenty. I meant that the idea was to keep the front look of the card remain intact. Just to replace the plastic housing of the stock pump, including the pump itself with a proper dimensions waterblock to be screwed into the stock coldplaye. Probably a stupid idea but, again, I’m almost happy with a stock cooling system performance. Swapping it to a full-cover WB now is only due to a reason my case isn’t capable to accommodate a third radiator.
i wonder if the connection from the water block to the hoses are workable. if i could add my own hoses, i could run tubing to my own rad and keep the card as is.
Cool vid, but the audio video needs to be normalized better. For example, the intro music is way too loud, compare the the rest of the video. And then during the part where you talk as intro follow up, the audio volume comes in and out, I'm guess you have a clip mic on your left maybe? Anyway, I'd say either just show a screen with the temperature info and talk over it, or have the mic follow where you are talking into. Anyway, great vid for the technique showcase, but audio can be vastly improved. Look up broadcasting standards like EBU R-128 and check your volume, or do it in post but then you'd need to be careful about noise level.
Hi Silver Knight, I'm doing some experiments right now where I'm grafting a 4090 Liquid cooler onto my 4090 Suprim X. Theres a couple of issues I'm having; 1) I can't screw in the shroud fully. Can you confirm if the screws for the Liquid shroud is the same as the screws on its backplate? 2) My VRAM temperatures are up substantially, up to +30 degrees over air. I used 0.5mm Thermalright Odyssey pads. Would you recommend 1mm or 1.5mm for the pads?
I want to buy this, one thing I am interested, does the pump block actually have a refill port? I noticed in the video that it has some sort of port on the opposite side where the tubing comes out , but is it sealed of? Or is there way to open it up and add liquid...? Also what kind of the pump is it if you know is it serviceable....? I am usually not into liquid cards because air cooled cards are much simpler to service over time.. But these new 4 slot monstrosities are out of the question for me and I want something more compact.
better off with copper plates for all of it. CNC custom bracket can be bought and the temps for the ram are massively reduced. look at 1080 2080 examples on how its done.
I dont know how much more performance a copper shim mod would net this card. You are limited by the cooling element not the transfer rate necessarily. But then again we did see a 10C improvement on the the card memory after the mod so... who knows lol
wich video card would you choose for yourself? MSI 4090 Suprim liquid X or Asus Tuf 4090 OC ?? I have both and I don't know which one to keep and which one to sell.
Have you did a teardown of the MSI Suprim x 4090? I was wondering if they are the same exact board when it is all taken apart, the reason is I'm curious of when the pump dies on this will you be able to tear down and add your own custom waterblock
This was my exact same thought process. Turns out that all of the websites that I have gone to state that the waterblocks are compatible between the two cards. Will probably be the direction that I go.
@@SilverKnightPCs I noticed that its PCB is exactly the same as the non-AIO suprim X. Do you think it is possible to replace the AIO with a waterblock for suprim X (reuse the AIO radiator and fans, but replace the waterblock and pump)? Is the tubing removable from the radiator side? Will there be software compatibility issues since the front fan header will be disconnected, and the new pump is a different model?
Hey Silver Knight After owning Liquid X for about 1 month, I am confident enough to say your card was a BAD BATCH. I was having nightmares when testing first but my temp is hovering around 62-64c at absolute max. ( winter here so..) The worst case scenario i saw 68c mem. But I do use Phanteks T30 fans at 1608 rpm. Gale P12 default fans were hovering around 1740 ish RPM. The core for 4K max gaming is around 52c and 54c for CP2077
@@SilverKnightPCs as i said absolute max was 68c. You clearly had a bad batch. I would suggest to RMA but I think its too late. Also there is no single benchmark program or a game ( excluding power virus programs ) that would make me jump from 68 to 88.
@@streamroller1974 not having the best temperatures is not a valid reason to RMA. Keep in mind that our temperatures in our tech room are pretty warm due to how many computers we have stressing in there at any given time and ambient temperature can rapidly change the discussion. We experienced the same situation with the next batch of cards pretty sure that it might be just a difference in your area temperature and the fact that you using aftermarket fans versus the default fans that came with the card. That being said the memory temperature is being high we're in line with every other tech review spot on the internet. Our GPU temperatures on the die were slightly higher but that improved on the main die after we swapped the dry TIM for new paste
hey silver knight great job on the teardown. just a quick question tho, did you use the 1.5mm or 1mm on the vrm's because you didn't show that in the vid. also do you think i would be able to use .05mm copper shims on the vrm to yield better results please hit me back im curious cause i have the same card. thanks a bunch brotherand keep up the good work on all your vids
It was 1 mm thermal pads. You could probably use copper shims but there's not much of an advantage on the vrm as they don't get very hot to begin with. You would be much better suited doing a copper shim mod on the memory but you would need to use a very thin copper shim
That's really educational video! Should I get MSI Liquid X, the Inno 3D ICHILL BLACK or a used (but tested by the shop) ASUS VGA Asus RTX4090 24GB ROG-STRIX LC O24G?
I haven't seen one of the Inno cards to assess if they're actually good or not but from what I've seen from the European reviewers it looks like it's got some of the best temps on the market but not necessarily the most overbuilt power delivery. The Rog strix seems lazy. There's nothing exactly exciting about the design. The power delivery is adequate but the cooler design is not very impressive. The fact that they recycled the same design for the water cooled card and the Matrix is disappointing. I really thought the Matrix is going to get its own PCB
@@SilverKnightPCs Thanks mate! I I'll just go with the MSI Liquid X, especially now that they fixed it. I read a bit about the Inno and i have leartn that i has poor VRM section and lowest power limit (450 w vs 550/600 with this MSI), so perhaps it's not worth the 100 bucks I'll save on it.
I've got a Suprim Liquid X and my GPU core temps are in-line with yours, but under full load (3D Mark tests), my memory temps don't get anywhere near as hot as your temps. Usually my Memory temps hit a max of 70C
@@SilverKnightPCs Just ran the 4k optimized performance benchmark on superposition and my max GPU was 61.0C and my memory temps never went over 68C. I had a score of 32,348
im not sure whether i should buy this card or the rog strix. a lot of people seem to say that the radiator is getting extremely hot, almost unhealthy hot. I feel like this should have been a full 360 radiator instead of this small one.. What do you think? Strix or this one?
Definitely this card, the Strix in my opinion is a bit overpriced for what it is. These cards are rock solid and they have updated them since the release (this video) to have better memory temps
Hi, I liked the video posted. I have a question regarding the radiator. Will it be possible to change the original 240mm radiator and apply a 360mm radiator? Compliments
@@SilverKnightPCs Could you tell me how to make the change? I purchased the Hyte Y70 touch box and would like to apply the 360mm radiator to the graphics card
@@jorgemoutinho7159 I mean it's not as simple as something I can put into a comment on here. You're going to have to adapt all the tubing as well as get a replacement radiator and then redo the barbs on the cooler side or the radiator side. If you're asking me how to do it you're probably aren't equipped with the skills to do it
@@SilverKnightPCs I was thinking about putting this " Corsair Series Hydro X XR5 ". My biggest question is whether it is easy to remove the tubes on the pump part ?
@@jorgemoutinho7159 that's not going to work. The water block has the pump built into it but it does not nearly have the flow rate to run a full loop. You would have to do two separate loops with this card. If you're planning on going that route you might as well just order a aftermarket water block for the card if you plan to do the entire Loop
Great video. I know I'm a little late. I have this card. And I have a hotspot temp average that's basically normal but I have a hotspot maximum temp that's over 110degrees is this normal or is my card over heating. Because that average can be like 60 but maximum over 110. Any info would be great as I'm about to send to msi to have looked at but don't want to waste people's time if not needed
So the hotspot temperature being that high is a little unusual. At the end of the day that's the hottest part of the core so more than likely it just means the cooler is not mounted evenly or alternatively there wasn't enough thermal paste or something. I would say I wouldn't worry about warranting it unless the card is having clock speed issues
@@SilverKnightPCs if u have time. I noticed the clock speed on my card is dropping to around 1500 when I start getting the crappy graphics. Even if my thermals I below thermal throttle. Any ideas
I was slightly surprised you had OCP problems... I've been speccing a machine with a 7950X, this GPU (or an aircooled equivalent depending what's available) and I was wondering what scenario you were finding was triggering OCP, given the 40 series transients are improved on the 30 series. The GPU could potentially draw 530 watts peak if absolutely maximally overclocked via Afterburner under full benchmark load. A 7950X could theoretically draw at full blast 290W under 100% synthetic load. Adding those plus another ~50 watts for the board, you're still within tolerance of a decent quality kilowatt PSU. It wouldn't be as efficient as a 1.2 kW supply but it shouldn't just stop... Interesting teardown of the card nonetheless. Thanks for putting it together 🤙 reminded me of my adventures in repadding and pasting my toasty 3080 FE! 😅 I also wish they'd got Cooler Master to design the AIO with jointed elbows at the card edge so it would fit horizontally into more cases (or offered multiple connection points). Bit of a shame for a two grand card that it's so inflexible for mounting!
So these cards during the first wave had 600 W bios on them. Later on Nvidia and AIBs actually walked back this to 550W max. I can only assume that the cards were pulling more than that. Also this was during the time frame when the 7950 X and all of the AMD 7000 series with Boost clock speed until 95c was achieved and claimed that it was regular Behavior. We had a Arctic 420 mm AIO on the system which is arguably the biggest and best cooler on the market
@@SilverKnightPCs aaaah interesting! I intend to undervolt CPU & GPU and power limit the GPU as I've done on my last few machines, seems the 4090's so OP it won't make any meaningful performance difference to me. The VRAM's what I'm most interested in for work and VR gaming. What PSU did you end up running this on where it worked nicely?
@@ChristopherWoods I'm still rocking a 5950X with an EVGA Dark X570 and a Sapphire RX 6900 XT Toxic. Trying to convince EVGA to do a Kingpin X670E and Sapphire to do a 7900XTX Toxic so I can upgrade :P
We are going to do graphs on the next video. We were shorthanded when we filmed this and were trying to figure out a good software to use to make the graphics in the future. This time around we just verbally stated it in the video and posted the results in the description. Appreciate the feedback!
Hi. I am considering buying this card, but I have already bought a 1000w pay from Corsair, since that was recommended from nvidia and the price for a 1200 was a 100 dollar+ extra, will it run with my i9 13th gen if I don’t overclock? Also, should I be worried about the base temp of the ram? (I can’t replace the thermal pads, as that would thing the chard warranty)
So first thing to consider is that replacing thermal pads and thermal paste on a graphics card does not void any warranties with MSI. It only does so in the case that you improperly install those things and that causes the vram or GPU to die. If it's probably done the warranty still applies as per normal. That being said if you're running the i9 and this card you will be fine with a 1000W. The issues we experienced were with the higher end VBIOS and the power limit maxed.
Hi, wondering if this pump is to fail outside of warranty that you'd be able to buy a new one from MSI seperately? The process of removing and installing it seems very simple.
@@SilverKnightPCs so is there any hope of saving this card if the pump for example fails after 3.5 years? any alternatives? Planning to make whatever card i buy last for atleast 6-7 years. Would it be a safer bet to go suprim x then?
@@iben3271 yeah it's a special request they don't advertise it but essentially they've kept every CAD file so all they have to do is find an opening in their CNC machines production schedule and queue it up. Not bad at all.
Could you slap on your own waterblock like one from EKWB? I only worry about the IO bracket that looks like it's specifically designed for the Liquid X
I can confirm that the Hydro X Series XG7 RGB 4090 SUPRIM/TRIO GPU Water Block doesn't fit this gpu... the vrm cut out in the block is not long enough on the IO side
Does opening the card voids the warranty? The brand I’ve always used for GPUs was EVGA because you could open them to do what you did on this video. I bought this card and will arrive next week. But I’m wondering if i can open without voiding the warranty.
@@SilverKnightPCs Thanks. Does your card has coil whine? I had to return mine because it was incredibly loud. Even with the case closed i could hear it with the speakers on. Waiting for a new one that’s arriving this week.
@@SilverKnightPCs that gives me hope of the new one being good. I actually got a new psu for this card specifically and i tested it on my 3080Ti so i know the coil whine is not coming from the psu. I got the msi meg ai1300p. Thanks for the reply and congrats on the video. Very informative.
@@lmbotiva absolutely. If you want to see some cool stuff we did a3090 Kingpin recently and we're about to post a video about a Fury X. That being said the 3080 t.i. consumes considerably less power than a 4090 so if your power supply is on the edge of being adequate it might not be a very good apples-to-apples comparison
@@SilverKnightPCs Hello! That is, I can connect to this graphics card Power Cable PCIe 5.0? And why does the description for this graphics card say that it supports PCIe 4.0? I'm a noob help me please 😄
It's just saying that it is a Gen 5 PCIe cable, which is backwards compatible with PCIe 4. That answers your question; But to add a bit more to it: The cable is actually an ATX 3.0 version. However, releasing in the near future will be a new 3.1 version cable (12v-2x6) with different and better specifications for the cable and connector - once released, it will not work with today's cards, and today's 12vhpwr cables will not work with the new GPUs that support the 3.1 version. To get more info search No More 12VHPWR Connector! Say hi to 12V-2×6. Hope this is helpful to someone :)
Should have cut the hoses and measured what the ID of the hose is.. judging it looks like 9.5mm possibly or maybe could be 6mm. Cant find that info anywhere.
I have this card coming soon. Should I be concerned in regards to the stock VRM temps on the Suprim Liquid X? (would like to avoid opening my brand new gpu if possible) Also, I usually don't overclock. Instead I usually do the opposite and underclock the card (would rather have the card super cool than more power for marginal $ gains).
@@SilverKnightPCs so it's possible to not remove the black metal bracket and just replace the 1mm thermal pads on the memory? If so I'd rather go that route, as I don't have the energy and time to open up the card more than I have to.
@@romxxii I'm wondering the same thing. @Silver Knight PCs is that the case? I have the card coming from Amazon around Feb 10th and will be checking the temps. Based on the user post on this video the cards now use a ticker pad. So maybe it won't be an issue
@@SilverKnightPCs When you tested temps originally, did you have it overclocked to max? What was your gpu hotspot before/after repaste if you recall. I just got one of the 1.07v models and when I test in 4k cyberpunk path tracing, frame generation with NO dlss it bounces off the 510-530ish watt limit and after 10 min hotspot got to around 89c and memory 84c. That seem inline to you?
somehow my temps are better than yours when the card is mounted vertically, when mounted horizontally temps are much worse, like yours. I am hitting 61C at gpu, 65C at memory and 72 hotspot while ambient temps are around 25C when mounted vertically.
3 GHz no issues. Coil wine was at a minimum but it was running sustained 4K superposition tests so the frame rates aren't high enough to experience coil wine issues sustained
@@SilverKnightPCs I use vray which doesn't use nvlink or sli. The question is mostly about the temperatures inside the case. The air cooled cards are not recommended for a closed rig, so I'm wondering about this.
@@elektroluver in that case if it's truly multi-gpu agnostic no matter what kinds of connections are working in the cards then you are in a position where this is probably one of the few cards in the market that you can run dual 4090s. We haven't done exact temperature testing but based on what we know about water cooled cards in the past as long as your radiators are venting outside of the case instead of pulling cool air and blowing inside the case then the heat isn't going to be inside the case to matter. You should be more than capable running two at the same time. Now cable managing that having an adequate power supply to be able to run that? That's a different question entirely
@@SilverKnightPCs Yeah cable management will be difficult but I think my psu can handle 2 of these (super flower leadex platinum 2000w). I'm already running 4 blower 2080ti's, so another card I'm looking forward to is a blower style from manli but I'm not sure how they gonna manage to cool that thing. Thanks for your answers.
In our newer videos we have been doing more benchmarks. We went with traditional paste as our customer wanted to keep the factory warranty valid and LM requires maintenance as well as voiding MSIs warranty
@@SNIPEYOPIPE not necessarily. Thermal pads are pretty good at transferring heat through the medium. Usually you can even stack them about 2 or 3 times and as long as there are no air pockets itll transfer as well as a single pad. Its all about the thermal conductivity of the pads. You want to use the thinnest pads that fills the gap because if you use pads too thick it will cause unnecessary warp and flex of the pcb and cooling parts
@@SilverKnightPCs I see what you mean, but Gamers Nexus has stated otherwise. The less material heat has to transfer through, the better at cooling said material will perform when compressed between metals. I can completely understand the space tolerances and warping possibilities, though if too much pressure is applied to a certain area. Also, I forgot to add, that W/MK ratings specify how FAST heat energy will pass through a thermal interface material. Not how MUCH will pass through it at one time.
@@SNIPEYOPIPE thats fair enough. GN is a great source of information but I'd like to point out that there is no exact measure of thermal conductivity that the industry agrees on so much so that almost all thermal pad manufacturers no longer put a rating on their pads. The pad thickness transfer speed while technically true, the reality of a 0.5mm to 1mm is so minor that it will fall outside of what is realistically measurable. Thinner is better, but mostly for the reasons I stated above less so because it's less material for heat to transfer through. If you were talking about a 10mm thermal pad vs .5mm (kind of a ridiculous example) maybe there is a large difference but even then I'm pretty sure it'll will transfer heat almost the same assuming the surface area of the components and heatsinks are larger than the thickness of the pad.
to me this is extremely annoying, i am trying to find a 4090 that i dont have to completely dissassemble to get decent temps and considering the price of these cards its insane to me that you have to open them up and fix them, i mean cant these people include some decent thermalpaste and pads when you pay over 2000$ for it?
Cool PFP. Love me some MTG. Looking at comments it appears that the newer ones have had this issue corrected. I don't know if it was as a result of this video or ones like it. We haven't retested it since then as the temperatures for memory are acceptable just not necessarily the best on the first couple test samples we were working with. Usually once we validate the samples we don't go to retest them. Maybe it'd be worth doing a follow-up video on the future with a current production card to see if this was updated.
