I just got a spesh epic comp with 187x47 fox shock with brain. It definitely needs a rebuild so I’m looking to trade it out for a normal fox air shock. Should I go 190x45 or is 190x50 okay with added travel? Obviously trying to avoid casing the frame. Thanks!
I have a Fox Factory x2 and it comes with some orange spacers with an open end to press on. They look like you can push them on to the shaft. Why would I need to take the shock apart to place these?
You say let all the air out but you say nothing about the fact there's a big difference if you sit on the bike and measure or if it's just resting on its own weight because even with all air out it rests on the bottom out support which raises it. So should you compress the bottom out as well or not?
I have a 210x50 2022 Fox DPS. So it has two 2.5mm spacers I believe. I want to put it at 55. However, I’m worried the screws/bolts holding those spacers will be too long after removing the spacers. Anyone has any experience with this?
You will need to measure more accurately. There can not be a 1/2" range of potential length, and you'll need to measure it spot on. Once you've measured 100% accurately, drop a comment and we'll help from there! Or, email us directly at sales@thelostco.com for faster help 🤘 -Mike
So Cannondale makes a long travel version of my bike with a stroke length difference on the rear of 7.5mm. All the digging I can do indicates the two frames are exactly the same, so removing the spacers to get that extra 7.5mm should actually be... fine?
As long as Cannondale supports it then you are 100% good to remove those spacers! It's not uncommon for companies to offer a long travel and short travel version of the same frame just by adjusting the stroke of the shock. -Tor 😎
If you overstroke your shock, you'll get more travel out of your rear suspension! Sounds too good to be true right? Well it is! And your frame might bottom out on itself, causing damage before the shock bottoms out. We DEFINITELY recommend getting the same eye to eye and stroke length as the stock shock! -Tor
That's the right shock for you! Any 230 eye to eye shock can be restroked to be 57.5, 60, 62.5, or 65, so you can totally make that 230x60 a 230x65! -Tor 😎
Hey Lucas, you can definitely use any 190 length shock with any stroke length and readjust it to 40mm. However, some models require a full teardown and rebuild, while others are very simple. Shoot us an email at sales@thelostco.com and we can recommend which models of shocks are easy and which are difficult 🙂👍 -Mike
Hi Guys! greta vid as always. Ok, I just bought a Float X Factory 210x52.5 that need to convert to 210x55 but I read somewhere else that when you remove the spacers the screws are too long and you have to cut them down or something. Is this true or what's the deal? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the comment! Yes you are right that there are different length screws, but the Float X uses the same length screws for a 52.5 and 55mm stroke Float X. www.ridefox.com/fox17/img/help/page1132-CPJ1/2022-FLOAT-X-Travel-Spacers%203.29.21.pdf Here's the schematic from Fox, and as long as you got the short screws from the factory you should be all set for full travel!! -Tor 😎
Hey Jason! I just talked to Alex, our head mechanic here at the shop, and to summarize what they said, YES! When you remove the air can from the shock, you'll see a small 2.5mm metal spacer around the shock shaft that you can snip off with some small snippers. Just be careful not to hit the shaft! -Tor
I saw your question and was wondering if you actually cut the spacer? If so how did it change up your bike? I just got a new X2 from Fox that replaced my leaking 2022 and for some reason I'm bottoming out the 2024 version even though it's the same shock
Hey there! We would definitely recommend sticking with the stock length! That big of a change will affect your bike's geometry and could lead to your frame hitting itself when you bottom out. If you do buy the 220x66mm shock anyways, make sure to check for clearance by taking the coil off and cycling your bike through its travel! -Tor
Soo I got kind of a dilemma xD. I currently have a 241x76mm Öhlins ttx m22 and would like to upgrade to the new m.2 version of the ttx m22 but they don’t come in the length I need. The closest to it would either be 230x65mm or 250x75mm… so one is too short the other too long. Could I got the new one that is 9mm longer than the old one in my bike or do I risk destroying my carbon frame? Because I doubt that Öhlins is going to make 241x76mm anytime soon or ever for the new ttx m22 :/
Hi Resh! Yea you've got yourself in quite the pickle there! Luckily the current shock you have is pretty dang sweet, but if the upgrade bug is really buggin you, Fox makes their DHX2 AND Float X2 in the 9.5" x 3" configuration you need! Definitely could be a great upgrade for you if you're looking to switch things up, but you're right, I don't expect Ohlins to offer the m.2 model in your size and I strongly suggest sticking with the OEM shock size! -Tor
You say we can't increase eye-to-eye...Is this just because of geo changes? am I missing something else? What about increase eye-to-eye by 5mm (200 to 205) AND the stroke by 5mm (57 to 62) and then swapping the rear wheel to from 29x2.4 DHR2 to 27.5x2.8 DHR2? I think that would give me the clearance, increased travel and limit some geo changes? Maybe the wheel change doesn't work and instead I would have to add more sag to keep the rear suspension kinematics working correctly?
With the metric shocks we all use today, there are Trunnion and Standard mounting shocks. Your bike is designed to work with one of them and not the other, and the eye to eye length of each of them jumps by 30mm at a time, which would result in HUGE changes in geometry and suspension movement. You're pretty much guaranteed to make the bike ride worse than the manufacturer recommended, and if you're making that many changes to your bike, you might want to sell it and put that money towards one with the geometry and specs you're looking for! -Tor 😎
Yep! A few brands and models of bikes have been known to make running changes to stroke depending on what they're going for and wanting to change for riders. -Mike
You can under-stroke your bike without damaging anything. However, you will lose rear wheel travel. We always recommend simply using the same size of shock that your bike is designed around to maintain wheel travel and geometry while avoiding any potential damage from over-stroking. -Mike
Are the spacers that change the stroke length different from the air tokens? I'm assuming they are. I bought a float x2 from you guys and love it. Wanted to add some tokens because I'm a big dude.
Yes! Great question John, the spacers that adjust your stroke length are definitely different from volume spacers. Your volume spacers only adjust the progression of your leverage ratio, while the spacers that adjust stroke length limit the distance your shock body can travel on your stanchion. Thanks for asking! -Tor
That is an imperial shock which is normally known as 8.5' X 2.5". You can technically measure any shock in either inches or millimeters, and convert them back and forth, but that is a traditional size that falls within the old imperial standards. Shocks that fall within the imperial group have a certain group of sizes produced, and shocks that fall within the metric group have their own group of sizes produced. 8.5x2.5 / 216x63 falls in the imperial sizing group. Unfortunately, most new shocks are not being made in imperial sizing. For example, all new RockShox shocks are only made in metric sizing. One great option is the Fox Float X2 which is still being made in 8.5x2.5 - thelostco.com/products/2022-fox-float-x2-w-climb-switch The DPX2 is also still being made in 8.5x2.5 - thelostco.com/products/2021-fox-float-factory-dpx2 There are some other random shocks out there being made in those sizes, but those are just the ones that easily stick out. You could also purchase a used shock and then have it rebuilt to be good as new 🙂 -Mike
Yep, exactly! Just the procedure to do this changes between different models of shocks, meaning you may or may not be able to do it yourself. You also need to make sure your bike absolutely uses a 62.5mm stroke so that you don't over-stroke the rear shock and potentially damage your frame. -Mike
I had to buy a new shock last year i nearly went insane. This doesn't help because now i know there is another variable to the mix. I have a monkey brain just say fit yes fit no pls :(
The frame manufacturer usually list the shock size on its website. So to buy a new shock you should just check this: 1. Trunnion or standard (not modifiable) 2. Eye to eye (not modifiable) 3. Stroke (modifiable to fit your frame) So if the stroke of your new shock does not match exactly but it fits criteria 1. and 2., it can be changed.
Really, all you have to do is look up your bike online from the manufacturer's website to find the shock size, and then replace it with a new shock that is the exact same size. If you can't find it online, you can either call the bike manufacturer to ask what size it is, or manually measure it yourself with the method we show in this video. -Mike
I have a weird bike, it's a canyon strive 2014, the size wasn't an issue but the frame was and is still an issue. The shock basically sits inside a cage so almost every shock of the size I needed was not gonna fit. In the end I had a machine shop create a piece to replace a stud that was in the way and put on s float X2, that was 3 years ago and the bike is still going! But yeah it's been a hell of compatibility issues