I was attaching a handle as I was watching this and was just starting to wipe the slip when you said not to. You may have saved my mug! Thank you for this! 😀😀
Thanks so much! I learnt a lot and will try your methods next time I make a mug. I love making mugs with handles, now my success rate will improve because of your great video. ❤
I like the suggestion of letting the slip dry down a little before cleaning it up. I think that will help my occasional cracking. Brushing on a little liquid wax around the attachment sight can also be helpful, especially on delicate attachments. Further, if you make a very long handle, for example on a teapot, waxing the entire handle will often allow a long thin handle to dry without cracking.
You can also wax around the handle joints and let dry. Forces the water to evaporate out slower through the thicker parts of the mug, making it dry more evenly. Cracking when drying is a result of thinner parts (wall) drying faster than thicker parts (handle lug). Eliminated cracking for me, as long as the handle's well-attached.
I pulled a handle the other night on a that kept showing the crack at the top as I was futzing with it. I kept smoojing more slip into it and sponging it off. I should have just left it to sit.
Excellent tutorial. I love the subtle undercut you have at the base. Gives the piece a good stance when sitting in a table. Beautiful wax resist pattern on the dark clay bodied mug!!! (I'm assuming wax resist? or maybe a stencil like tape resist) Keep these videos coming Krytal!
I use cone 6 clay. My clay has a very low absorption rate- totally fine with leaving clay exposed. --it doesn't absorb liquid they way a low fire/terracotta clay does
@@krystalosmanceramics I was thinking about vitrification. I think that's the first time I've actually written that word. I've listened to other RU-vidrs talking about vitrification. I wondered what happens when part of a mug is glazed and part isn't. Seems like the glaze provides more waterproofing, or something.
@@catwoolf11 yes- when people are talking about vitrification they are typically talking about how porous their clay is and how much water it can absorb with normal usage. Typically low temperature clay like terracotta is porous- but it’s still totally fine to eat off of if glazed-just can’t put it in the dishwasher. Most mid-temp clay like the one I use, have a very low absorption rate and will not be harmed in the dishwasher- even with a lot of exposed clay
Thanks for this- I'm going to go try it today. I haven't had much practice with handles and it's quite intimidating at first. You did a great job going step by step.
This is great! Approximately how long do you wait between sticking the curved handle on the table to dry a little and attaching it to the mug? I def waited too long on my first attempt lol.
The length of time depends a lot! I work in my basement where is very damp so it takes over an hour- but in a dry location (or if the heat is on) it can be quite fast! You do have to check it often to see if it’s ready- firm enough to hold its shape, but soft enough to be able to bend a little.
Thank you for this video! I love to make mugs, but cracked handles are such a pain! I always wipe away the slip, but I will try this method now. I think you are also right about letting things dry slowly. Getting impatient has caused me to crack so many nice pieces or end up with warped plates etc.
Hope this helps!! Having extra slip on there will help add more moisture on the joint as well- which is ideal bc then both parts can dry together -if that makes sense
Thank you so much. I’ve been making pottery for about 18 months and my forms are starting to be reliably nice but I have made a monster out of handles because there are so many little tricks I just don’t know. Ive had little success with avoiding cracking but this tutorial is absolutely what I needed.
I think your method is very wise, but I often do quite detailed texture on my mugs.... I think using so much slip and leaving it will destroy the pattern 😣 any suggestions?
Hm- I find the crease is an area where glaze tends to pool anyway, I wonder if it wouldn’t make too much of a difference. Also, try playing the amount you use- just enough to allow a tiny line should be enough- it will shrink down to basically nothing as it dries
This is the best explanation and demonstration I have seen for attaching handles. I'm definitely going to use this method on the mugs I have that I will be attaching handles to this week. Thank you!
This is great Krystal! I subscribed and I am now following you on Instagram as well. Wonderful tips and I love how you let the handles dry in a nice curved shape under their own weight! I will watch this videos or parts of it again as I pull some more handles, thank you and happy new year!!!
Thank you for this wonderful video! I have been trying to do handles and have been watching many videos. Yours was simple in the explanation and you went slowly and purposefully and all of it made sense. I can't wait to try this method! Thank you so much!!
Use soft-ish AGED clay.- it stretches better. WEDGE the clay. Pulling should not take that long. Handles can be hung off the edge of a table to stiffen a bit; this creates the curve. A mug that is as stiff as yours is a bad idea for adding a handle even if the handle is the same stiffness. It is also nice to make the handle an integral part of the mug, i.e. it should look as if the handle GREW out of the mug, rather than stuck on- more aesthetic and a way stronger bond to the mug. Why do I know this, you ask. Because I am 71 years old and have been throwing since I was 26.
