Multi Pitch Climb | Tips for Efficient Climbing and Transitions

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This video highlights some tips for multi pitch climbing / trad climbing where you can really speed up your climbing. These tips also make climbing simpler and in most cases safer due to less components.
#multipitch #climbing #tradclimbing

Опубликовано:

13 мар 2022

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Комментарии : 72

@nathanehlert5600 Год назад

As someone who's relatively new to the world of multi-pitch, I have found your videos extremely helpful and have implemented a lot of your techniques and advice on my climbs. Just wanted to say thank you and keep up the good work!

@summitseekersexperience Год назад

For sure and will do!!!

@travis4266 4 месяца назад

been watching your vids for a while and they've been tremendously useful, not sure why I hadn't subscribed until now. Subbed!

@jeremypinyard73 2 года назад

I appreciated the improvised anchor techniques! Super helpful. Thank you!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

For Sure!

@andrewpolk1314 Год назад

thanks for all the helpful tips as always

@matejrebro6603 2 года назад

useful, clear and concise, thank you :D the visual demonstrations really help

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

No worries, you got it!

@chriskaplan6109 Год назад

Thanks for the insightful content, this was helpful!

@braydenpeterson6784 Год назад

Great tips thank you!

@dylanclarke9932 Год назад

Great video, always learn something new I can incorporate into my own climbing. Thanks

@joschelboschel 2 года назад

master of your class!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Thanks! What a compliment

@thoughtthrottle. 2 года назад

2:40 a great tip here is that sometimes it is more efficient to just untie your figure of 8 and switch ends of the rope. This way you don't have to do the pancake flip and risk tangles at weird belays. Just make sure to use your personal anchor or other gear to go into the anchor direct before you untie your figure of 8.

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Dude, love that idea. I'm going to use that.

@acsherman 2 года назад

I don’t know why this never occurred to me before. It’s so obvious!

@ianmcnulty4251 Год назад

Nice trick... and it might be the best option at a weird belay. But I think that's a very bad idea in general. Besides requiring a PAS/cowtail/quickdraws to go in direct, untying/re-tying multiple times adds unnecessary risk of getting the sequence (and maybe the knot) wrong. It might even introduce a new tangle. That risk is multiplied by the number of pitches. Only do it once for the rap if not walking off.

@ryenschimerman2127 Год назад

I've always scooped the lap coil, threaded a shoulder length sling under the coil, and binerd it. Then when it has to be handed off, I just un hook it from my gear loop to theirs. Am I missing something? I'm not sure I'm comfortable with any regular procedure that incorporates untying from the system.

@optimus163 4 месяца назад

@@ianmcnulty4251 BINGO !

@linuxlife 2 года назад

Lots of great tips!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@simonykhsu Месяц назад

thank you!

@silasj.d16 2 года назад

Thanks for the great video!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Your Welcome!

@samcantrell6930 2 года назад

Great video Jason! Cool tip on girth hitching the krab when you just have a sling. Had to use one a couple times and ended up cloving both sides and putting 2 knots to reduce shock load. Girth hitch seems way faster!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Thanks man!

@kcwliew 2 года назад

Nice video - thanks!

@benjam_morgan 2 года назад

Great tips thank you

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

You are so welcome!

@a_rios_4672 Год назад

Great content!!!

@trombahonker 7 месяцев назад

Thanks

@jakeduggan2394 4 месяца назад

At 7:55, dont underestimate the danger in this position. Its crucial to tie an air clove onto that upper carabiner. If you tie a clove with the handshake method there is a moment where the atc is disengage and a fall would be devastating.

@JREV123 Год назад

fantastic video, thank you

@summitseekersexperience Год назад

For Sure

@namelastname2449 Год назад

Greaaat video

@Govanification 2 года назад

You should twist one strand of the sling like you're making a sliding X before tying the girth hitch masterpoint, in case it loosens and one strand comes unclipped from the anchor, it can slide through the hitch but you'll still be clipped into the sling.

@joschelboschel 2 года назад

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UMuCkC3jshA.html

@asgymnast631 2 года назад

This is a really good point. I just tested the girth hitch with one side failing and it came undone. I'm a bit confused on how to incorporate the sliding x into the master pt

@optimus163 4 месяца назад

Standard practice for sure . I cant believe this AMGA cert'ed Guide did not do this !

@ryancollison6536 2 года назад

Awesome content! I am curious about the use of non locking carabiners at the anchors. I was shown to always use locking carabiners for most or all points on the anchor/belay. I am loving this stuff though! So helpful for a learning climber.

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Locking carabiners should be used if there is more risk... usually in a single pitch scenario when you are setting something up for multiple people to climb on and you won't see the anchors. In multipitch, there are only a couple of people climbing and you ALWAYS see the anchor so nonlockers are generally accepted on the individual anchor points. Now then, on cloves, belay devices and anything attached directly to a person off a master point: LOCKERS.

@ryancollison6536 2 года назад

@@summitseekersexperience That helps a ton. Building up my first rack, lockers add up in a hurry especially for multi pitch scenarios. It’s good to know when I am in view of the anchor or belay station that two snap gates are acceptable. Keep up this content! I’ve watched pretty much all of your videos. I love it and recommend your channel to friends. Cheers from Colorado!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

@@ryancollison6536 Sweet, thanks man. Yeah, lockers = so heavy. thanks for spreading my content. Love CO, I gotta get out to eldo canyon soon!

@georgekousouris4900 2 года назад

Hey Jason, this was very helpful, I have a question for you, do we need 2 120cm slings since the follower is clove hitching into the quad, therefore need a second quad when you get to the next anchor ?

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Between you and your partner you should definitely have multiple things to build anchors with. I have typically 2 X 240 cm slings and then 2 X 120 cm slings and between that I can cover all scenarios, event when I forget to get my anchor material back from my partner. You can always do a girth hitch MP if you forget a bunch of times in a row with an alpine draw.

@PatrickWoerner 2 года назад

Wow, such a good and useful Video! Immediately saved for later sending it to partners :) keep up the good content! gonna check out the rest of yours

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Thanks! will do.

@Rufus1250 2 года назад

Great content, I especially enjoyed the tree anchor, but the bell is very annoying!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

dang bell ;-)

@emailkuan 8 месяцев назад

Hi! Your videos are great and I am a new subscriber! Do you have any videos that show this process with another climber? I would be leading all of the pitches and just need a review of an efficient way to transition pitches with me pretty much guiding them through everything.

@summitseekersexperience 8 месяцев назад

There are many videos on my channel that show transitions and change overs… just search for what you are interested in

@emailkuan 7 месяцев назад

@@summitseekersexperience I searched and found the one I needed, thank you!!

@logiconabstractions6596 2 года назад

How does block leading brings about less of a need to trade gear at belays? Because if I've lead the pitch, and have anything less than 1/2 of the pieces still with me at the belay, then most of the gear is with my second. So I'll have to retrieve that gear. IME, I typically have ~1/3 or 1/4 of my pieces left with me. Which makes swapping leads MORE efficient for trading gear, since you follower has most of the gear when he gets to the belay. Maybe some people bring lots of pieces than I do? The way I see it, if I end up with most of my gear still with me at most belays, then I'm bringing more gear than I need to. But at any rate, it seems to me this point is at beast a wash between block/swapping. Or something I'm not getting right here? Maybe depends on types of climb? E.g. sustained technical pitches will bring more of a need to protect, whereas more alpine style routes with lots of easy ground that allows really spaced out pieces?

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Yeah, I think you are correct on all fronts. Most of the climbs I do on the east coast have shorter pitches and as a leader, I don't place much to begin with, so I still have the majority of the rack. However, out west, when I do pitches on order of 160-200 feet, I end up placing the majority as you said and then it's probably more efficient to swap leads... until you realize you might lead twice as fast as your partner ;-)

@simold13 2 года назад

Great overview of different options at the belay - organized and easy to follow. Some of your speed tips though.... Focusing on cams, for instance. The most important thing for speed is to not break up pitches and if you are mainly placing cams, you're going to run out (or have an insanely heavy and expensive rack). The point about not extending your pieces is, I'm sorry, irresponsible. Many beginners don't understand how troublesome and dangerous zig-zagging is and this video could easily encourage bad practice. Who extends when it's unnecessary?

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Thanks for the feedback Simon. In my experience with (I use a double rack of cams and a set of nuts). I'm able to do a lot of pitches quickly as about half the anchor stations have bolted anchors. I think if you are doing a route that has NO bolted anchors, I agree with you, you may need to place nuts or something of that nature (I did that this weekend in NC on a hard route where I needed to place a lot AND the anchor stations had to be built)... So I placed nuts, which is fine, but on easy 5.7 or whatever, having the mindset of placing cams over nuts is always something to think about for speed. Thanks for the compliment on the video!

@simold13 2 года назад

@@summitseekersexperience Yeah, partly bolted routes are quite different - just the belays speed up the game a lot. But - let's say easy 5.7: you're typically going to run out the rope on every pitch. A dozen or so pieces would mean an average of 4-5m between pieces, so you'll have to climb with the knowledge that a fall will typically hurt or kill you (5.7 is mostly really scary, with lots of stuff to hit and loose rock potential). A dozen pieces plus a belay or two is 14-18 pieces, so unless you have excellent gear beta, you're going to have to carry a ton of expensive hardware. Just practice nut placement so you're faster. If your time savings are really significant, you probably just need more practice. Oh, and don't thread your slings, just throw them over your shoulder.

@simold13 2 года назад

And I'll stand by my comment about extension. Zig-zagging is a common problem for inexperienced leaders and I encourage you to take this video down, despite most of it being really good stuff.

@climbing200 2 года назад

So, what's the difference between alternating and block climbing? And how is block climbing faster?

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Hi Kayce! Alternating is basically the leader switches out every other pitch. So I lead one, you lead one, I lead one, you lead one and so on. Block leading is where I would lead like 3 in a row and then you would lead 3 in a row (blocks of pitches). The reason block leading is typically faster is that we don't have to transfer the gear every single pitch. If I were leading a block, every time you came up as the follower I would only have to get the pieces from you that I had placed which is a lot faster than transferring over the entire rack. Additionally, we could strategize about who is better in what pitches which would lead to faster climbing. This takes a little homework, but can lead to ultimately a faster climb. Hope that helps.

@climbing200 2 года назад

@@summitseekersexperience makes sense. I was thinking that every piece of gear would be placed by the leader for some reason. If that was the case then alternating would be faster. But I get it now, thanks!

@skabominable 2 года назад

Great content! Keep it up!

@duncanl9135 5 месяцев назад

Non lockers not facing opposite ? I thought u wanted redundancy there as well

@Mike-oz4cv 2 года назад

I’m surprised you think that block leading is more efficient. Flipping the rope (or even two ropes, if you use half ropes) is always a hassle. On well protected multi pitch routes where you climb with an appropriate number of quick draws the gear handover should be much faster with alternate leading. Most of the quick draws will end up on the route and the follower will pick them up “automatically”.

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Yeah... I think a lot of it is personal preference and climbing style. No doubt flipping two ropes is a pain, totally agree... but with a single partner and if you are flaking rope at your feet, I've found that pancake flip is 2 seconds and pretty successful. I don't place much gear when I climb unless it's hard so that also contributes to this line of thinking for me personally. Definitely can see how if you are placing more, alternating would make more sense.

@benoitcerrina Год назад

I had the same question as the first commenter and I think the reason is that as an American you equate multi pitch and trad. I come from France and as of now have done all my multi pitch there and always on sports route where no trad gear were used and I completely agree with the first commenter in that case so much easier to alternate. In particular I’d like I have often experienced in places like the Verdon gorge you don’t have the luxury to flake at your feet but you put the rope on your personal anchor as you are in a hanging belay most of the time . Also we tend to use double ropes even with just two climbers as we need long rappels and it is helpful with drag

@steventhaw3765 Год назад

Clove Hitch for the Master point! Refer to Brent Peters "Clove Hitch for Anchors"!

@bsol8805 Год назад

Could you put timestamps onto your videos?

@summitseekersexperience Год назад

I have put it on some and not on some... I haven't settled in yet to what makes sense long term because in general it doesn't seem to impact view count at all and it takes an extra 30 minutes or so in editing to do.