This video covers all the basic knots (figure eight, clove hitch, munter hitch) and anchor building basics for multipitch climbing. This works for both sport climbing and trad climbing. #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing
As always, the “best” practice is scenario driven. However, all during the placing of the three gear pro placements and the sling/cordalette anchor building, the climber was not clipped to any pro and risked a fall to the previously placed pro down on the route. Often, it is a good practice to clip the first piece of pro with the leader’s rope so that they are on a relatively tight belay while they place the additional pro and build/rig the anchor.
Really appreciate the tip on the well dressed figure 8. Not many people at all know of that method in my experience. I learned it awhile back and it’s been a game-changer ever since.
I really like that emphasis too! What I don’t like is belaying on the body so close to the stance/first protection. This video from the French Mountain Guide School confirms what the German-speaking countries (Germany, Austria, Swiss) are doing for a long time now. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eqZQnCGl24A.html
We generally go for a double bowline knot for outdoor climbs. You can fall on it all day and it never gets hard to untie. Double Figure 8 we leave for indoors only.
It’s very easy to tie this knot in the “better” fashion when you stop and take a second to actually look at the knot, and understand what happens to it when it experiences load, as it would in a fall. You will understand immediately why, even though they are essentially identical and equally safe, after loading the knot, one way can be untied easier than the other. It is about whether the load strand is “inside” the trace (good) or “outside” the trace (not so good), where it will pinch and compress the whole knot and make it very hard to untie.
Cracking video. Planning on taking a multi-pitch course in September, so it is great to start building the knowledge base ahead of time. Thanks for all the effort that went into this buddy!
Very detailed overview - excellent video. Great refresher (or if you're still learning the ropes - before or after instruction). Thank you for making this video!
Thanks, very logical set of steps! The thing that I did not think about is clipping a leader to a carabiner on the anchor, a cleaning sequence, and a rope management.
From 16:30, the idea of pre-clipping the leader's rope through an initial piece is sound, to avoid risking a factor two fall onto the belayer - but there is a risk, with this setup off the harness, that a severe fall may pull the belayer's device all the way into that first protection biner, and with gri gri style devices, this will RELEASE them, and potentially drop the leader the length of the rope. The Munter hitch is being used more and more directly off a fixed anchor, or the master point loop, to belay the leader, because it is not susceptible to this. Practically, on long pitches with wind, river or road noise, other climbers, voice commands may be useless or misunderstood; having a clear standing plan in advance for procedures can be crucial. I assume the leader will fully set the next station, get ready to belay, and only then pull the extra slack up faster than I'd expect to see, were they still climbing. When it comes snug against my anchor, goes loose for a moment, then stays snug again, I interpret that as the time it took to place me fully on belay, and then keep it snug; I can take apart my anchors, and expect the new slack will get taken up as I release it, confirming I am on belay even without voice confirmation. Complications like traverses, the need to move down, etc. require attention and awareness, of what the follower may be coping with, so as to not pull them off, or give out slack at the wrong time.
For Sure good point on the factor 2 stuff. Check out this video where I highlighted how to deal with that (utilizing the munter in a couple different ways): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y61azOK-CVY.html
Great video! I am getting into outdoor sport climbing this year. One day I'd like to find a bolted 2-pitch route to see if I could even handle those heights. I actually used to get scared in gyms.
This is really great content, and you explain it so simply. Can you explain the purpose of the alpine draw (or in this case, the non-locking carabiner) you put the leader’s rope through before they started climbing?
For sure, you typically want to have the rope clipped on the anchor so that if the leader falls early (before getting another piece in), the force of the fall is not directly on the belayer but instead on the alpine draw. The belayer will be pulled up, similar to a normal lead fall which is desired. Otherwise all the force would be directly on the grigri/belayers climbing harness and also put them in a very awkward stance. Additionally, if the belayer backs up from the alpine draw some, this can reduce a potential fall factor of 2 which would be highly desired.
@@summitseekersexperience And to add to that: If you belay with a tuber (BD ATC, Petzl Reverso, Edelrid Megajul or Gigajul in manual mode or any similar device), not using a redirect will result in a potentially fatal fall when the leader falls before clipping the first quickdraw!
The foolproof way i like to do clove and munters is to hold your rope in your fists, arms crossed, thumbs pointing along the rope away from each other, uncross your arms so your thumbs are facing up and you should have the two micke mouse ears around your fingers, cross them to get a clove hitch or fold them like book to get a clove. fool proof and you can do them both in complete darkness without needing to remember what micke mouse ear twist in which direction :)
New climber question. How do you set up the anchor before you clove hitch? The whole time you are creating the anchor with your sling, what is protecting your fall besides your last piece of protection?
You should utilize an alpine or quick draw on one of the bolts or your first trad piece for a trad anchor and clip yourself in before continuing to construct the anchor.
Nice video! i still have a question: when doing swap-leading (alternating leading), what's the best way to belay the follower? ( if using top belay, then when the follower leads, the belay needs to reset; if using belay from belayer himself that seems more natural and efficient so the follower can just pass leader and starts leading)
This was a great video, and I almost missed all of the information entirely because I got hung up on him saying "figure of eight knot" rather than "figure eight knot". Have I been saying it wrong this whole time?!
The only reason to utilize a PAS is if you intend to come out of the system for any kind of reason. Normally in MP climbing, I intend to stay in the system until the descent so I don't normally use a PAS until that point.
I am unfamiliar with the term "rating your pieces" 7:34 you said to have a total rating over 10, I have never Trad climbed, only sport climbed, if anyone could explain this for me I'd appreciate it!
Very good video. One question, at 22:27 you are ready to climb up as second, and it seems that the Alpine draw is not yet unclippep from the right hand bolt. Did I miss something in your explanations? Thanks!
He didn’t explain it in the video, but that would be similar to a QuickDraw. As the follower climbs, he/she cleans the QuickDraws or cams left by the leader, so once the follower starts climbing, they would take it out
If the leader falls on that first piece it will be greater than a 1 factor fall - very violent. That can easily pull you up to the clip and push down on the cam of the grigri. I know if you hold the break strand you are still good but do you have any tips on this? Especially with bigger falls later in the pitch too? Thanks so much for the great content as always.
Great video! Thanks a lot for their tips! One question on your last point, what if instead of a triple point anchor we use a quad anchor (for 2 bolts), can we use that without untying ? just clip the two biners to the bolts and start belaying the second ?
Right, the procedure would stay very similar. Quad would be appropriate for two bolts. The nice thing is then you have two master points so you can clove on one and then belay your second on the other one (two strands each).
Hi George. That's what I do on bolted multis. I've read that you should periodically untie your quad - i.e. after a weekend of climbing - so that the sling doesn't get weakened from having knots in the exact same place.
It‘s not very common to use a GriGri in a MultiPitch Climb. But it‘s definitely dangerous to use it from the Harnest. You should allways belay from the Masterpoint
Agreed on the masterpoint, I think that's shown at the 12:55 point. In regards to grigri in multipitch. I didn't use one until I became a guide and learned all the different rescue systems you can utilize a grigri in. Now I almost always have one just because if something happens, it's much easier to set up a rescue system with a grigri than without. Something to consider.
belay on and belay off seem like two very similar calls that you definitely do not want to get confused. Anyone familiar with this being an issue and know of any commonly used alternatives?
Last time my buddy and me got confused, about commands so we made some up. Banana for example meant safe. On belay is normally pretty clear because the rope goes tight and you start
The simpler the system, the better. Unless you intend to come out of the system (untie) there is no reason to have a PAS. I'd recommend just having a PAS in your bag or utilizing a 120 cm sling when it comes time to rappel. Clove is way faster, more adjustable, lighter (0 oz), and simpler.
I’m not a fan of the shelf unless ergonomics dictate to elevate a belay device. The odds of messing up the rope go up for a novice or loading the shelf incorrectly.
@@jaketaylor24081991 that's rare case scenario, but: if you loose focus (tired, bad weather condition etc.) and tie fig 8 only to the bottom loop and take a fall, you'll get upside down head down first. If you miss the bottom loop and tie to the upper one, you'll get bruses on your ribbs. By starting the knot with the upper loop, you minimalize the risk of worse case scenario
on my AMGA track, all i've been doing for the last 1.5 years is climbing multipitch to build my resume for the rock guide course which allows you to guide multipitch. I currently just guide single pitch because that's what my certification says, but I climb a ton of multipitch so wanted to share what I've learned.
It’s super cool the content and pretty clear, thanks for doing it. Obviously there are other techniques or scenarios you may found outside but it is question of each climber to solve following these basic security rules. I loved it!
