Less tension on the cable. Easier to modify if you need to re-route or even slightly adjust the cable. Without the danger of cutting into the cable when removing ties because of already mentioned scenarios.
@@MactelecomNetworks Unfortunately the USA is pretty much the ONE country that does NOT comply with worldwide Standards. Here in Australia we also use A . The American's drive the rest of the world crazy by continually refusing to use world wide standards, for example Metric. This is a real problem for 95% of the worlds population as the USA is still back in the 19th century when it comes to manufacturing and standards.
A 30 AWG isn't a cat6a cable. How can that manage with 48v poe devices ? minimum requirement for a decent network should be 24 awg, cat6 and cat6a permanent link should be 23AWG. Nothing else. Besides, cat6a cables should have metal grounded rj45. If something is plastic, its not cat6a as the screened part os and cat6a should be grounded.
Don't know if anyone will read this but I hope it'll help at least one person. When untwisting the pairs a useful tip is to use a flathead screwdriver and slide it up in between the twisted pairs and slide it up, doing this will separate the pair and straighten them out.
If you are getting paid for installing network cabling and you don't employ a network cabling certifier then you are doing a dis-service to your clients and consider yourself an amateur.
Those are NOT scissors. They are shears and you are holding them upside down. The big handle is in your palm with your middle finger in the small hole on bottom. The large finger hole is for better ergonomics. It gives more comfortable leverage to cutting. Your thumb and index finger are at the hinge pin for control. *another point of order: you didn’t make a perfect RJ45 end until you tested it for continuity with your pair scanners.
Awesome thank you! Going to purchase some as I'm rebuilding my home network with Cat6a and new network equipment. Reviews on the crimper says it's counterfeit and a nock off that breaks easily
About the Monoprice SlimRun cables. Per TIA guidelines, to be "officially" a CAT6a cable, these three things must be true, which do not exist with those cables: 1. It must be between 16-20G wire 2. It must have additional shielding to reduce cross-talk 3. 10-Gbps speeds must be retained up to 328 feet Therefore, those cables are misrepresented and are grossly mis-advertised, to their own admission (use of 30G wire).
A couple of things: 1) True. The Cat6a spec is for 16 to 20AWG wire. 2) Shielding is not required to meet Cat6A specs. Shielding does provide better protection against EMI, including EMI from crosstalk. Where installations don't have an abundance of EMI, UTP is acceptable. 3) 10Gb speeds to 328'(100m) doesn't apply to patch cables because, per ANSI/EIA standards, patch cabling can't exceed 10meters in a data circuit. The only misrepresentation is a minor one because if the Monoprice patch cables are used and the circuit passes a 10Gb channel test, you're good to go. BTW, you can buy 30AWG shielded patch cables so you can maintain the shield when using shielded cable. All that being said, I would never use slim Cat6a patch cables from any manufacturer for use with longer runs or PoE applications.
You can hear it in the name, patch cables are used for the short patch from the switch to the keystone jack, wire gauge is not a problem for such a short piece of the run.
Just a FYI, @02:20 Australia, New Zealand and some parts of Europe also use T568A wiring Also the U.S. Government only recognizes T568A if your cabling their buildings - surprising I now since nearly all USA you tubers do their videos cabling in 568 B... go figure :)
That I- punch tool looks brilliant! Easy to use and easier to find than the inline-coupler's / compatible patch panel / etc. That said, pu ching down 24x rj45 ends is much faster than 24x IDC's.
If you're in a hurry, but the standard is stranded patch cables on both ends because better flexibility, but solid conductor riser cables. You can get away with solid cable, but make sure you are using 8x8 RCSC plugs, the normal home gamer plugs are designed for stranded patch cable, not solid core.
I Like the cable comb, never seen that in real life. As for a tester I prefer one that measures length and tells me where the break is so I know straight away if I just need to trim down the end or abandon the cable.
find it odd a young guy like yourself is using scissors :) problem with anything that scores the jacket is there is always a very real chance it will also score the jacket of an interior conductor or worse nick it causing physical weakness and untraceable resistance issues. I prefer to use a scoring tool be it a razor based system or even a knife then using the ever present kevlar string inside the jacket to rip the insulation back beyond the score mark.. thats what it is there for. snip the jacket and the kevlar at a point you wish to install the fitting or the keystone. sure.. the jacket wont be perfectly round but I know the insulation is intact on all my conductors. I know there are devices that are supposed to only go a little way into the outer insulation then you pull it off.. I do not like the method for that which requires flexing the wire to cause a break on the insulation or just pulling it off. a perfectly round outer sheathing is not a good reason in my opinion to not know without a shadow of a doubt nothing is nicked and your fitting is going to work first time everytime assuming you are using the pass through connectors and a quality passthrough capable crimper. with a sharp cutoff blade.
What's your experience with the Verticle Cable wanting to spool from the end on fresh boxes(as you pull, the opposite end in the box becomes tangled around your head)? I avoid them because it's been a constant hassle in the past for me.
I've been doing structured cabling/service work for 15 years now. I cut my teeth on car A/V then commercial large scale A/V. I cannot FOR THE LIFE OF ME cannot use snips. I jokingly call them arts and crafts scissors. I love my Klein 1010s. And before you start tearing into me, I always carry a radial stripper on my key chain (usually for shielded or CAT6a). It's just what I feel comfortable with. Now, let me continue using this BISCI tech book as a foot stool... I'll get certified one of these days, haha.
and top marks for @04:20 for keeping pairs twisted as close as possible to punch down pins, so many self proclaimed "experts" (a term I use extremely loosely for them) untwist it all the way and often leave centimetres of cable more, so well done (BTW hte "cable scissors" are technically called " linesman scissors/snips'
Couple of comments: 1. The Keystone Crimpers are not universal like RJ45 crimpers. A Vertical Cable Keystone crimper will only work with VC Keystones. The Monoprice Cat6A cable are two small of a wire gauge for use with long runs with 10Gbps connections, or for use with POE. 30 AWG wiring is pretty small.
I would use a Klein Tools VDV Scout Pro 2 as a wire mapper AND port ID (get the full set of 16 plugs) and it can ID RG59/6 Coax (F type connectors). Costs more, but who doesnt chase a unmarked jack :) (BTW it has a tone generator, but it is not as strong as my Fluke or Progressive )
Good video. Micro flush cuts work good as well. I do not use pass-throughs as I believe there is greater possibility of corrosion; also special ends, special tool. I only use Leviton products for keystones. I do use a briquet while punching down.
I love seeing other Vertical Cable users out there. The I-Punch is the best tool in the game. If you haven't checked out the Low Voltage Nation yet you should I think you would enjoy it.
Would you mind giving a few uk alternatives with cables and the like as some are not available outside USA I got some nasty solid core cable that kept breaking and was covered in silicon all on the inside but the core was so brittle and I couldn’t terminate with out one cable breaking
Hmm I’ll have to take a look at what vendors are out your way. The cable you bought is direct burial cable. It’s meant for being outside or buried in the ground. That is why it was gel filled
@@MactelecomNetworks yea I wanted it for outside but the solid copper was so brittle I couldn’t even terminate with ought breaking a wire ended up going normal and will replace when it perishes
Wrong. I've been using them for 20 years and never had a problem. I use the original EZ-RJ45's and the crimper from Platinum Tools made by SullStar Tech. (EZ-RJ PRO-HD). The only thing that I did wrong was once I put the plug on upside down. I wouldn't work one of your sites if I had to use the original style. They are a PITA to work with and do not provide better performance.
@@jdilksjr Yeahh.. Ok Where to start.. Nearly 50% of the cables terminated with that termination system fail x-talk (NE/FE) or some other performance metric, especially in high-density, high-performance AVoIP/Real-time video over IP systems. I've wasted HOURS troubleshooting high-speed system issues, only to discover the root cause as nearly every cable terminated with a pass-thru RJ45. We've seen shorted/mangled cables due to dull/worn blades, issues with unprotected ends, insertion/retension issues due to the non-standard shell geometry and the cleaved ends not fitting properly due to a mangled crimp.. it's endless. Having to ensure dozens of crimp tools have good blades itself is a PITA. Sorry.. You won't find any professionals here using them, and most of us can terminate T568 UTP much faster than monkeying with pro-sumer garbage like those. If they work for you, that's awesome. Just don't be surprised when you can't pass spec/cert with those in a large system..
I've also installed lots of original Platinum EZ-RJ45's without a problem, however crimped on plugs of any kind are only used when necessary, for example in IP cameras. In racks and outlets of course keystone jacks or similar should always be used.
@@CraigMullins1 outdoor is nasty stuff it’s covered in silicon grease I ended up using normal solid cat6 and will replace when it perishes or maybe try putting it in a pipe?
@@whoislongy1849 Not all outdoor cables have Icky Pick, which is a petroleum-based product, not silicon (sic). Cables with Icky Pick aren't rated for indoor use so you have to transition to standard I.W. when past the point of entrance. You can also buy non-filled, indoor/outdoor rated cables that are UV resistant and are fine when installed in conduit. They are cheaper and easier to install.
@@MactelecomNetworks more of a curiosity about it shorting? I’d read of some people having issues with the PoE shorting out on pass through connectors, but it may have been an older article
As long as the outdoor equipment has power it will generate heat and prevent condensation/corrosion. I've installed lots of Platinum EZ-RJ45 outdoors with PoE without any problems.
@@mrfrenzy. I'm less worried about outdoors (where I probably wouldn't use pass through anyway, but we use weather sealed boxes) - I'm more concerned about shorting from exposed copper when plugging into the switch or if there are blade problems creating a not fully clean cut.
@@MactelecomNetworks Crosstalk Solutions "ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2OLeNqsNATQ.html). He is doing similar videos like you do, but a month ago had the very same video with you. :) Is not bad though! I like your videos a well!
@@d3m3tr3s oh ya I saw that. He only showed how to terminate cables. There will always be overlap. This video was to show off everyday tools I use. Specifically the vertical cable I-punch tool
@@MactelecomNetworks No worries Cody. I'm a beginner and I learn from both of you guys. I bought the UDM-Pro recently and I add my firewall rules based on your video. Very useful!!! I appreciate you buddy!
GREAT VIDEO!!!! But..... do i have to use the color codes as described in canada (THIS IS JUST ME SPEAKING) for my home installs i just make the colors the same on both ends and i use a Klein Tools VDV LAN Scout Jr. Tester and get "PASS" this wrong or correct? Thanks in advance
Any link to a Government document stating the ‘country’ thing? Even in the US, opinions are mixed. I’ve been doing networks for over twenty years. This is the first I’ve even heard of this. Heh, nobody is going to arrest you for using ‘B’! Worst that could happen is someone down the road would possibly need to spend time checking the standard used on the other end of a cable they were re-crimping one end!
@@troyjollimore4100 I’ll have to take a look. It honestly doesn’t matter if you use A or B just pick a standard and stick with it. I wouldn’t stray away from standards though as it’s been designed for a reason
@@troyjollimore4100 The orange pair surrounding the blue pair is the tradition in Canada for "line 2" of a phone jack. Blue was always line 1 Orange was line 2. These traditions were not exactly standards set by standard bodies, but internal company standards that were followed by technicians working for the government owned phone companies at the time. (Older 4,6, and 8 wire solid colours were just solid red, Green, Yellow, Black, Blue, White, Orange, and Brown) The newer colour codes allowed for standardized pair orders for a full 25 pair cable. So I have to assume some USA bell system companies were using green for line 2 or that they used pins 1 and 2 for line 2 on an 8 position plug instead of straddling the middle pins. But the general idea is that the colour patterns have a legacy in phone lines.
@@UpcraftConsulting I knew about the phone line pairing, but never seen it explained just like that. Makes sense. Doesn’t help most of those techs are retired, though!
Pass through connectors are great if you have a new guy terminating, and you don't have time to train. Saves a lot of cutting ends off with sideways wiring and half inserted conductors.
@@thetable123 I am definitely going to have to look into them as I suffer with dyspraxia what effects my hand eye coordination but has not stopped me yet
If you ever need to add a new cable then you need to cut all the ties. Plus it can pinch the cables and be to tight. With Velcro you can undo it if adding new cables and cable ties when you cut the end are sharp
People tend to crank down on zip ties too tightly causing compression shorts or cross talk issues. Yes, you can use zip ties, wax string, Velcro, or spun wire to hold or support these little voice/data cables. A lot of companies doing large trunk runs use connected channel trays.
I forgive everything else because you used a cable comb. Also, that Ipunch(?) tool looks very handy. Those are snips, and you're holding them backwards. Thumb never goes through a loop. The big flat part is to rest against your palm, the round hole goes around the middle or ring finger depending on your hand size. Digital tone generator and sniffer is nice for cables that are plugged in. My analog toner never leaves my office. And you missed my two most critical tools: Sharpie and label printer. Sharpie to label the box and the cable while pulling. Label maker when terminating. A little time now will save the next guy a LOT of time later.
I'll have to forgive the cable comb. Yes, they make your cabling look pretty. If, on the other hand, you are doing a job that requires meeting industry standards, combing is not a great idea. EIA/TIA, the folks that have created the standards like 568, 569, 606, etc, do not recommend ever using a comb because you are more likely to get alien crosstalk with combed cables. You will only be able to detect alien crosstalk with a Cat6/6A certifier. Most regular testers don't look for it. Regarding analog toners, I still use mine for phone lines and for troubleshooting audio. And you're right. A marker and a decent label maker are essential tools.
It doesn't matter whether you use A or B as long as both ends of a cable are the same. Unless you are making a crossover cable. The reason for picking one over another is to prevent accidental crossover cables. If one person is using A in his wiring closet and another person is using B in his closet, you will have all the cables as crossover cables. Not good. The color sequence was picked to have the middle two pairs match the phone system so that a network jack can be used as ethernet or two-line phone but not both. It would simply be a cross-connect in the wiring closet to either a network switch or to 1 or 2 phone lines. They didn't match for 4 phone lines because they needed to minimize cross-talk.
I use: Southwire snips. Best snips I have ever used. Milwaukee 6 inch side cutters, and I have Jonard telecom side cutters with the 24 gauge notch. The milwaukee are pricey but the best ones I have ever used. Channel lock 6 inch needle nose. Bucket Boss tool pouch with Flap Fit best small tool pouch. Klein pass through crimp tool. I like because it's smaller and lighter than most and fits in my pouch Irwin small (I think #2) flathead and phillips screwdrivers A trusty old Blue Blade flat cable knife. A small crescent wrench, mines a Kobalt, although any will do. To straighten the ethernet wires I use a Belden Cable Prep tool. The plastic comb works better than the ridges in snips and is easier on the wires. Hard to find and easier on the fingers when you're terminating a bunch. Milwaukee 2105P Pen light, is a great AAA battery flashlight and fits nicely in my pouch. I recently bought an Atlas 46 brand tool vest. While it's expensive it's big pouches on the front are great for when I'm on a ladder. The drill holster on the chest is great for my 12v DeWalt drill and the lanyard is great so I don't drop it. The magnet panels are great for holding screws and bits. I have the DeWalt 12v Extreme drill and the screwdriver (looks like an impact but isn't. Both are powerful for little 12v and the batteries don't last as long but it's much easier handling them all day over my 20v drills and impact drivers. I mainly use Belden Cabling for all my jobs. It's the Cadillac of wires. The PIC plastic insulation coating on each wire is always consistent and makes for easier termination of the cables. Also Belden always certifies well, and is easier to use. It costs more but is well worth the money, especially when you have to certify cable runs. For jacks, I use Hubbell Xcelerator Cat5e and 6