Prime example I installed my JLT without the housing and I was running rich, bought pmas complete with housing and fixed the issue. You’ve been helping me a lot btw.
My car has never surged. When I was NA I had an RTR grille which is essentially a delete. And now that I’m boosted I still have the RTR grille still not one surge. Im still convinced a good tuner can correct this.
@@White_Fox_5.0 if the aftermarket grille functions improperly with an air intake on your gt500 style bumper. Not only do you know the answer as to why something is malfunctioning it’s time to take that bumper off.
@@TheCdM1981 work on that reading comprension. I have a 500 bumper with the grille completely open and it has caused zero issues with my stock airbox. So im skeptical of what he's saying based on my real world experience. I 100% agree with the turbulent air being a problem, but with all the bends in the stock airbox before the MAF i think the grille has little to no effect on the maf reading, just my .02 i dont have a yt channe dont listen to me i dont care🤣
But seriously though, you couldn't have better timing with this video, Alex. This explains why my 2018 GT surges while I'm cruising around, but not at idle. I literally bought another MAF sensor thinking mine was bad. Turns out its just turbulent air due to the extra airflow from the ram air hood.
In all honesty, I would have thought the small amount of holes in the grille opening/snorkel was to aid in keeping too much water from getting in during rain.
Just went through this with my neighbor he installed a vmp Odin and new grille. we spent a few days trying to figure out why at 60 mph it would start driving bad and giving lean codes. Ended up being the new grille we blocked some of the grille to prevent it from getting turbulent air and fixed the problem
I will agree to an extent with the reasoning behind the way Ford engineered the grill for the intake. I will add my theory to this. It was to limit moisture from car washes rain etc from entering excessively into the airbox to prevent the filter and MAF sensor from becoming inhibited by moisture. I believe another reason they did this was to prevent large debris like leafs and large quantities of sand etc from entering and accumulating in the airbox and shortening the filter service life.
My 2018 GT has a ram air hood, but the stock airbox. Even with that, I'm still having surging issues while driving. I'm going to check my grill shortly to see if any of the intake holes have been reamed out.... this could be the root of this issue... however, if it doesn't hurt anything I'll just learn to live with it. The hood came with the car, and I'm not going through the trouble to replace it. Push comes to shove, I'll just put something in the hood vents to limit the airflow. I wouldn't be surprised though if the intake holes are reamed out... the previous owner literally gutted the PCV valve and made it straight-through... meaning they were INTENTIONALLY allowing oil to get into the IM and into the combustion chamber... luckily I had a used PCV valve laying around from my previous 2016 Mustang...
Had a PMAS on my gen 1 and drove fairly well but IATs were indeed way too high even with the shielding it came with. This time around with my Gen 2 it seems like the GT350 is the play for an upgraded intake with the way it can seal to the hood and fit like a GT intake. Thanks for the info alex its always golden.
@@XCVi_MAC I completely switched to a Gen 2. I owned a few cars in between since my gen 1 but I'm back in the coyote game with a gen 2. I will be going with a GT350 intake this time
Great video Yolo Turbulent airflow is no bueno especially on the flowbench I installed a Roush CIA on my 21 just for more filter media but it did change the MAF signal a little. With the insert it seems to run a little richer AFR @ Wot but drivability is still pretty good. When i install the Bullitt modified grill kit in it will definitely need a retune.
I installed a boat blower to force outside air to my cai at idle. Moved a lot of air sucking in from the bottom of the engine bay. At a stop it would stall out. Once I turned off the blower it was fine.
Installed a custom built ram air system to my lb7 Duramax and have great output once over 15mph but she’s a boat under that I used most of the stock piping, stock MAF And housing Can this be fixed with running the MAF in the charge piping like in your video AFTER the turbo for a cleaner consistent reading?
I drilled out all those spots and haven’t had any surging, did it a long time ago, I hope it hasn’t caused issues. Stock box with a flat panel filter in there still.
Have a gen 1, you mentioned awhile back in a video that the stock airbox, coupled with a larger "tube" was the way to go (think this was concerning IATs). Did what you said, car runs/drives very well. Doesn't look all that impressive under the hood with the stock box, but driveability is far more important, IMHO.
It does well but remember once you start flowing alot more air like cj intake cams and the like a big pipe and cone filter would be beneficial just from an airflow perspective. On stock or mild bolt on cars this doesn't come into play.
Interesting. I bought a stainless steel mesh grille (Shelby) but, haven’t installed it yet. The inlet is wide open with no mesh. I inquired with Shelby American if there have been any MAF issues when using it with the stock air box and got no response. Now I’m skeptical on installing. I also bought the FRPP CAI stage 1 that comes with a tune. It’s what comes stock on the GT350’s. Do the GT350’s have the same inlet restrictions? Or do you think the tune would allow for more air flow?
When you put in more air than designed are effectively changing the AFR. That leans out the fuel mixture to a point the engine runs bad. Your factory tune cannot compensate for the air mixture you are giving it. You have to change the ratio buy a tune. It's a big pump, your stock intake is regulated to the stock tune. To much air, to lean a mixture of fuel and air. The stock system will only go so far. After that, it goes lean. That also makes it run hotter. We deal with this on Harley Davidson motorcycles when we change intakes and exhausts, we can only do so much and if we lean the mixture too much the Air Fuel Ratio, goes lean and on air cooled engines can be catastrophic. This is why your engine codes, the stock tune can only put so much fuel in.
Man I know you're trying your best we both know you're going to get hammered with the same damn questions your next live stream. Either way man I appreciate the videos
That's the question before I open up my grill. He explained that it might cause drivability issues but didn't give us a fix for it unless he was implying go back to stock.
Ok I have a 2022 5.0, I was just about to do the grill mode. So really all I need is a aftermarket air filter and leave the rest alone? What air filter do you guys use k&n afe, steeda green filter?
Wouldn’t air straightener screens be the ultimate fix?? Have a KB 14 GT with open grilles, ram air hood, 168mm monoblade throttle body and drivability is smooth no surging/bucking.
Tried a roush closed box the one with the clear plexi that you can see the filter says no tune I had the insert put it in as well car ran like shit don’t know why I called roush they had no idea why it did that
Remember you said if you want a car to drive like stock and have no issues, then to put the car back to stock. Stop hating on those intakes because they’re not cut and paste (tune)like the rest on the market. It really looks bad on you.
@@White_Fox_5.0 this comment was made over a year ago. To my knowledge there is a Steeda closed air box CAI that is a true CAI. Don't know about the others. Not only that but I had a 2010 Camaro SS over a decade ago that relocated the air filter to the bottom of the car. Problem was the metal piping brought IAT's up and it was a dog off the line after sitting in staging lanes so make sure whatever you are talking about doesn't do that.
@@ShizawnSanders i never drag my car. Its a manual with some bolt ons that sees the occasional roll race on the way to a meet with some buds. What really defines a "true" cold air intake, you just mean it actually works at lowering iats
@@ShizawnSanders im about to install the pmas fender well kit so i guess we'll see, its all plastic ducting so it should be fairly well insulated . I don't expect to see any crazy gains on the buttdyno. Just tired of looking at a stock engine bay and if it make 10-20 more hp well then i'll take it🤷♂️ its just some air tubes what do people really expect
@@White_Fox_5.0 yes, a true cold air intake brings in ambient air. NOT engine bay air. Unless your intake has a cover i doubt it will bring in abient air. I guess if you don't do dig races or drag races it won't matter.
@@SantanaGTv you still want a clean maf signal on a boosted car. Positive displacement blowers have an intake setup alike like an na car does and they need good maf signals to that isn't an na only thing.
@@alexh2205 stock isn't the only answer there bud. Believe it or not cars with performance mods need more airflow through the intake. If you got a cj and cams with fbo you're not gonna want a stock intake even if it would work with a cj which it won't. If you have something that could work with stock intake like gt350 manifold you still want a system with higher flow. Pmas does fine on this but the shielding isn't that great it can be modified to work better iat wise.
It isn't a ram air effect unless there is also a closed box that sealed it all off from everything else if it's just an open grill with a filter that isn't gonna be a ram air effect and probably will throw it off.
C6 Corvettes also have this issue when stupid owners hack up the factory air box to get more cold air. Then they wonder why their car drives like absolute shit.
