My 5.0 vs The Wrld 

YO IM SO HAPPY YOU COMMENTED 😭😭 I LOVE YOUR COD GAMEPLAY 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

@@zlowyote appreciate that bro 🙌

My limiter is set to 7200k rpm. I was shifting exactly at that. Trust me if I could shift at 8k I would 😂 it would be a whole different game if I could rev out longer. But I told my tuner not to do that because I have 160k miles on stock oil pump gears and I don’t want to blow the motor.

Tank you

I agree!

Yeah these cars be expensive

I got the sve drift wheels in bronze. They look nice and don’t break the bank too bad! I still want to get the sve sp2’s in the future though.

Car is now twin turbo/built motor. I run 5w-30 and still use the 8qts oil pan (gen 1)

@zlowyote yeah you should definitely get some 5w40 Shell Rotella diesel motor oil in there, immediately lol especially since you're doing turbo, one of the best qualities of that diesel oil Rotella is the detergents. There's some really strong detergents that are gonna help keep your rings clean, not to mention the cam phaser seals. Sure, you probably won't have any problems for a while, but if you want to prolong the life of that boosted yote, definitely consider Rotella. Castrol 0w40 is also a great option for turbo builds, it's spec'd out to Audi/VW oil standards, those guys put turbos on everything. Again, good strong detergents and high synth content in the oil. I personally ran Rotella in the summer and Castrol in the winter with my stage 3 turbo build A4. That car is a sludge monster, and when I pulled my valve covers off while checking everything before selling, the timing proximity was so clean you could almost eat off it. I never ran additives or anything, just the Rotella+Castrol. So many old timers and ignorant guys say oil doesn't really matter, and while it may be true on an NA running really good fuel and changing the oil every 2k miles, for the rest of us trying to be a bit more conservative with our boosted coyotes, it really does matter. Anyway, I won't preach anymore here 😅 I just feel obligated to try and correct the misinformation floating around out there for our cars. Hope your stays on the road for a long time brotha

@@TheManic.5-OH yeah i would do that BUT i built the motor myself, and the tolerances for the main bearings and rod bearings are too small for that thick of oil.

@@TheManic.5-OH and also I use amsoil 5W-30 full synthetic. Which is 100% synthetic and the best oil you can buy. It has better detergents and cleaning agents that any oil out there, per a study done on about 20 different oil brands. (Shell rotella included).

@zlowyote I think you might be a little confused, I'm on my 3rd motor build right now and helping another guy do a sleeved 5.2 in the future. I'm not sure where you're looking at thinking it's an oil channel, but that 'clearance too tight for that heavy of oil' doesn't exist. That's no the case on a coyote, voodoo and definitely not predator. If that WERE to be the case, why would ford ever tell you to run Motorcraft 5w50 if you have an oil cooler? I understand your concern, but its not necessary and redundant.

thanks, best of luck!

He sure does :)

😂😂🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻

Yessir I’m back :)

Thank you 🙏🏻

Roush

They’re about $250

I currently have 160,000 miles 😔 I think supercharging it would be waste because I want at least 700 whp and that would blow this motor I think

Thank you and it’s the no airbags because no passenger seat and check engine light because no cats

I have 3:31 gears

@@zlowyote you need 3.73 gears minimum. If you run some 305 out back which puts you at something like a 26-27” tall tire you could run 4.10s and still be good to go on the highway

@@dallasstang2818 nah 3:31 and 3:55 gears are the best for rolls racing because they have better top end. I would never use 4:10 gears unless on a track. My car would barely hit 140 with that gearing.

@@zlowyote 3.31 gears would be best if you’re putting down north of 440-450whp. On 3.31 gears and 285, my GT was good but after I went 3.73, it was flying by comparison on downshifts. To date, the 3.73 was the best mod I made especially after going 285 (before the 305) tires.

@@zlowyote either way, I hear ya. You can’t really go wrong cuz the GT is a great car

A little heavier but it ended up being trash and I went with McLeoud RST

custom X pipe from local muffler shop

Low reading dyno

No

Low reading dyno

MT-82

I have beaten the heck out of them and they’ve gotten really hot I’m sure and they’re going strong for me. No leaks whatsoever.

@Triston Stuart the ones that are around $250

Yes

@@zlowyote just wondering Bc I’m in high school, and I love mustangs but hesitant to get one because I don’t know if their reliable…and let’s not get started with the insurance😔

@@dekaleb8917 they're reliable. I daily it to hs

@@blue5slow oh okay thanks for lmk

lmao nevermind just seen where you said you are stock clutch that's wild. mine at 26k miles sucks alresdy

@@fans3984 in some of those earlier clips I was stock clutch, the later ones I’m not

@@zlowyote gotcha did you go with mcleod? didn't get to finish the video😭

@@fans3984 no actually I went with one off of rock auto it’s pretty good rated for 600hp/600tq

It’s just a local muffler shop one no brand

@@zlowyote Ah I see. Gonna get myself some ebay headers too. Good content man💯 🔥

@@christianibarra9438 you’ll love them, they’re not expensive either. And thank you 🥺🙏🏻

Dyno was reading low also he probably has a 500+ lb weight advantage

Yeah I’m boutta take it down

might be the weight reduction 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

@@zlowyote how much?

@@davidplatania563 no a/c no washer fluid all seats and carpet are out, it’s basically a tin can 5.0

@@zlowyote makes sense😂

178,000

Currently 157,000

Yes I am

I don’t doubt it