Wowzer. Shoutout to my homie Umair for the Dragy and for kicking my ass in the gym. Had a blast reconnecting with you 🤝 This rest of this video was pain. Might need to reassess. I’ll be done with the EG soon. You guys ready for a new build? Also mark your calendars. The new drop preorder goes live this Saturday March 16th! 4pm 🕓
John before you keep swapping the alternators,try adding a new power wire from alternator to the battery,I do it on all my cars! You can add a 2-4 guage wire externally from your harness,it's super cheap and super easy!
This is by far the best video I’ve watched. Why do I say that? It’s not everyday that someone would post the downward spiral you just went on. That to me is awesome. As car guys and DIYers this is something that can happen to anyone of us and more than likely has. Humble content brotha. The real side of cars are pain.
It's umair. I just wanted to say I know a lot of you probably haven't met him in real life. He us just as awesome in person. Hope you enjoy the gift! Had a great workout too 💪
Glad to see you working through your issues, it's how we all learn. On that note, thought I'd suggest a few things. 1. I would suggest running at minimum 8 Gauge wire from Alternator directly to Fuse block. 2. Similar to above, but run 1 wire directly from battery to fuse block, and another from battery directly to starter, especially if its the same wire you used that failed. For battery to starter I'd recommend 4 gauge. 3. If you want to test your Vtec solenoid, go into S300, options menu up top, and select test outputs. You will be able to test vtec by checking test vtc output. You don't need to have car running, just be near the solenoid when you check it so you can verify you hear the click. 4. If you think you're having a parasitic draw issue, you can test your draw easily with a multimeter that can check amperage. If you do this, make sure all interior lights off, headlights etc, key out of ignition. Then disconnect battery ground and connect the multimeter inline, meaning one lead of meter (red wire on multimeter) goes to battery ground terminal, and the other lead (black wire on multimeter) goes to ground. Make sure your multimeter is set to 10A or lowest setting it has, and read your amperage. Ideally you want 50-100Ma (50 millamps - 0.05 Amps) if your seeing 250+ milliamps start unplugging one fuse at a time while watching meter reading. If you pull one and it drops significantly you've identified the circuit and you can research into what components are part of that circuit. 5. Id recommend upgrading your radiator cap, not a cheap oem replacement like you have. 1.3 bar (greedy, spoon etc). This will increase the cooling efficiency of your current setup, and not leak 😉. 6. Electrical tape should be a good enough for now fix, but ideally get a grommet, or slice a vacuum hose down the center and use that ( then you wont have to run wires thru it, like with a grommet). Hope this helps bro, keep at it you got this.
@john I've had so many electrical issues with my Integra and hands down the best thing I did was downloading a complete wiring diagram. It's come in clutch so many times! This is for an integra so it will be slightly different, but a lot of the diagrams overlap with other Civic chassis. If you are still having battery issues I recommend you start by Measuring the Voltage Straight off the Terminal post on the Alternator to determine if the Alternator is initially outputting the expected 13-14V. If it is not then the most likely culprits will be, The Alternator control wire coming from the ECU to the Alternator is faulty, The Fuse for the Alternator under the dash is blown, or you might want to check that the Light bulb behind the Dash called the "Charging System Light" is not out. Surprisingly the light bulb might not seem like a big deal, but Alternators initially need resistance in order to get "excited" and work properly. That charging light is directly connected to the Alternator and should come on when you turn the key on to the first/second key position and turn off right after starting. Obviously if you get 13-14V at the Alternator terminal, then your issue will be downstream and you'll need to trace where the voltage is going :) check out page 23-100 On the link i posted for the alternator Diagram www.scribd.com/document/414861223/Acura-Integra-98-01-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-pdf
This is one of the many reasons I always come back and watch your videos. You keep it 100% real & authentic, you show the good & the bad side in building cars which makes it so relatable. We don’t always have good days, its just apart of the game. But you putting it in the video instead of just editing it out, shows alot of your character, never give up & keep pushing forward no matter the obstacle 💯🙏🏽 I know we’ll hear that thing rippin again real soon !!!
I recommend replacing negative, positive and starter wire with 2 guage wire and the fuse box wire with 6 guage. BUT do it with marine grade wire and terminals so they dont corrode. Same with your battery terminal connectors
If you disconnect the negative battery terminal while there car is running, and it dies then the alternator is shot regardless of what you do, that’s the simplest and proven old school way of knowing your alternator was bad, hope this helps brotha. Love the content lately and can’t wait for the merch drop 🎉
I just bought a 1997 coupe for $800 and your videos are getting me hype to start working on it as soon as possible please keep up the great work because you provide amazing content while being very informative!
Rough one for you my dude! BUT I have to say this was great for me to see. Even guys who do this for a living and who have worked in shops like Mercedes have issues like us "shade tree mechanics" do. Keep your head up man, you'll get this all sorted soon I know you will. On a side note... a few videos ago you talked about not coming home and playing video games, or hittin the pipe and getting high. You helped me quit smoking weed with that statement, something I've been doing for the last 20+ years. I can't thank you enough John! My life is so much better over the last month or so and I owe it to you. THANK YOU!!!!!
@@boosted_john thanks so much for replying! Glad I can return the favor as far as making your day. Because of you and those words you spoke, each day that passes is my best day in years. Going to keep this sober thing going for a long damn time! Watching your videos and working on my EM1 helping me stay focused and motivated. You’re the man and I mean that with all my heart.
Real pain towards the end. For future John, parts stores should have a test bench, bring your old battery, starter, or alternator in since they have cores anyway and have them test it, even if your multimeter says otherwise. In addition to that loose wire on the starter also check the one at the fuse box, I used a junction like the one you have on your firewall and didnt have my starter wire tightened down enough, wire got super hot, tightened it down and all my starting problems went away, same would go for the alternator. Also, physically check the power wire going to the alt, not just at the terminal, it could also be damaged/burned. You go this man
Aye man I’ve been there too, I had a similar issue on a Saturn astra, I had gotten a new alternator, no change, got the original rebuilt, no change. Traced the fusible link from the starter to the alternator. It was burn up. Time and money wasted when the fix was just solder and shrink wrap!
It's all good John, we've all been thru things like this! I hate to be that guy pointing out the obvious, but your multimeter has a continuity test mode that can help diagnose a wire break like that one. Handy tip for next time!
I would say another diag test would be to always check voltage off the alternator stud. if you have it there but not at the battery then somethings broken or corroded in between
I had the same battery issue with my del sol that had a relocated battery. Had to drive around with jumper cables because battery drained so bad (especially with headlights on). Re did my battery ground (wire wheeled the crap out of it) and added some of that dielectric grease and it basically solved the issue
im seeing a bunch of shotgunning brother, need to do diag before tossing parts, a circuit high is going to be a problem with the high side of the circuit, the control or B+, open or short etc.,. you need to do a load test on the alternator to determine if the alternator is the problem or if ur cables are the issue.
Well John good channel been watching you for a while for a battery mod I would recommend a weight plate up front use cardboard for templates then a 14v xs battery up front I know sounds over kill but if your racing driving and alternator goes out it holds up for a while just a suggestion but I have a similar setup in my hatchback and you can put the battery upfront under bumper with weight plate add some leads to inside frame rail for jump points just incase but it'll all be custom by you. With older Hondas customization is endless.
I'm a year and a half on my tiny battery and haven't had an issue with it. I keep it on a trickle charger because I don't drive it every week. I also have big power and ground wires
Only dude I’ve seen talk about how it really be , you get nightmares or bad dreams about the car you love soon as your up it’s all you can think about and fixing it becomes the mission
LITHIUM!!!!! Best route to go with the battery because then you can still stay small and light with the added benefit of being way stronger than any normal battery
I went lithium with my battery and never looked back BUT i had to relocate it to inside the car but the lithiums are so small its really nbd and this battery is stronger then any battery ive ever had and has outlasted any battery iv ever had but yes expensive
hahah , thank you lol , i was fully willing to give the $ back too johns the homie , just was more dissapointed at first thinking the alternator i was confident in was bad @@monsterdong7520
Hey so I got a question about gearing in the B series. I’m building a car very similar to yours with the same power, I’m not sure which gears I have. All I know is I’m in 4th gear at 50mph at around 2k rpm’s cruising. I was able to rev it to 8k rpm’s and hit 50-ish mph in second before when the car made 265hp so I believe they are short gears. Anyways, When the car makes more power will I be able be in lower gears at higher speeds so like maybe 60mph at 4th gear ? When I did make 265hp I would cruise on the highway 65-70mph in 4th at around 3-4k rpms, and 5th would be normal at 2k rpms. The reason I ask this is because when I get the car ready I want to do some pulls without blowing it up lol, I’m fearful of cruising on the highway at 60mph in 4th dropping it into 3rd and blowing it up, yet I see cars do it all the time. partly I think it’s because I’m not used to such a high revving car, lol and I freaked out the first time I shifted at 8k. idk I think I may have answered my own question, do you have any tips on how to know/ get used to your a high revving car. for some reason I always shift at like 5k, when should do it around 7k
I am a store manager at an Oreilly in shaumburge if you are near me I’m willing to set you up an account so you can get comercial pricing on those new parts
@boosted_john just something to keep in mind when a car is running its producing alternating current, hence the alternator. When u have two cars connected running the Doner cars, polarity can reverse the polarity of the car getting jumped and would then fry the diodes in the alternator. Most of the time, the polarity is the same, but u are taking a risk. The better way to do a jump is either from a jumpbox witch is dc not ac or running jumper cables from car a to b then let car a run 10 min or so to charge car b's battery. Then turn car a off and leave cables connected and start car b from the partially charged battery and the other cars battery (dc )
Trump tower? You from Ny? Nvm i see ur Ct plates. Bro thats awesome to know there is another john that’s tri state who loves hondas. I am from Long Island
Maybe he made a Dyno appointment months ago when the car was running perfectly fine. Now suddenly he has issues. So what you're talking about is irrelevant. This happens to all car guys. You have good days & you have bad days.
Soo you get really upset with the car but for reasons that you have caused by upgrading/modifying the car ? Cant let stuff like that piss u off and ruin your day cause as it is lif is way too short gotta live life too the fullest and with positive vibes . Also its part of the game building cars with stuff failing or brakeing ext ya gotta train yourself not too let small things like that get too and upset you or ya simply need a new hobby cause building something and modifying berings alot of these issues and broken things down the road and that will never change so instead of wasting days of your life upset and stressed out ext step away from the car game and try something else?
Man, i feel your pain. I to have a Turbo B series EG thats giving me issues. Mines will crank & crank till the starter gets hot but wont start. If i jump it might. Im thinking of relocating my (dead) 700CCA battery back under the hood. Replace it with a 51r battery & starting over fresh.... Im leaning towards a power distributor/dizzy issue.
