My 6mm Terrain and WW2 Miniatures 

They're great minis

I bought and painted two armies of Heroics & Ros tanks & figures nearly 45 years ago. Haven’t used them even once! They’re just too absurdly small to take seriously. Much prefer 15mm and 20mm at which point you can actually paint proper uniforms on your men.

Yep that's the easiest way I think, if they won't sit on top then I'll lean them up against it to show they're inside.

When playing 6mm, I've always made my buildings from card with a foam square inside the base to lend structure, as it's cheaper and less weighty. I'll then place something like a magnet or old piece of metal to weight it down. One upside of this is that I can produce them with removable rooves - maybe give it a try if you've got the time.

I've tried 2mm irregular miniatures before for the American Civil War, it's a good scale for the bigger battles!

Are they sturdy?

@@TheAxebeard It depends on the thickness of the acetate and the glue you use. My main problem is that a lot of acetate is quite thin, 100 micron, typically for printing. Some acetate sold in craft shops is thicker and I seek out that. Also superglue is great for this if you are not allergic.

@@TheAxebeard I just checked. I'm using 250 micron thickness.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

@@TheTabletopGamer : Could you please share your thoughts on AFVs in Crossfire? How you use them, and any house-rules.

@@brettsimpson1505 Of course, the only changes I play with for AFVs is to allow them up to 3 activations per initiative. An activation can include moving, turning the turret and firing all weapons (firing multiple weapons is treated just like a fire group action) I generally allow tanks 2 activations, fast tanks and wheeled vehicles 3 activations, and slow tanks 1. So a tiger 1 would have 1 activation, a Panzer IV 2 activations, and a scout car 3. Everything else is rules as written, for things like trucks and universal carriers that don't have stats, I just treat them like a vehicle with no armour that can be attacked by infantry. A hit from a HE or AP round will destroy them, and they can be pinned and suppressed the same way as an infantry unit. Those simple changes seem to make armour more of a viable option without complicating anything.

@@TheTabletopGamer : That sounds like a good way to do it. I’m planning on running the Raid using my Pacific War kit, as I have Platoon Forward. I’ll use the same attacking force you used (but with Diggers instead of Tommies) and the defenders will be Japanese.

@@brettsimpson1505 That sounds great, let us know how you get on, and good luck!

I don't know about easiest, but Crossfire is quite a simple ruleset once you've played your first game - I certainly find it makes playing solo fast and fun.

Ty, this video changed my ability to almost unlimited maps.....buildings?

Can't wait for the next crossfire campaign vid

Thank you for the comment!

What bases do you use for your plastic mesh figures

@@CivilWar-on-Sunday For my American Civil War armies I use 60mm X 30mm 2mm MDF bases, and for my samurai I use 30mm X 15mm 2mm MDF

Thanks, I appreciate it a lot!

@@ruolbu apologies for the super late reply! I would go with additional coloured dots, maybe yellow for engineers and blue for SMGs for example

Hi, thanks very much for the comment, I've added the link to the models I use in the description but here's the link again www.heroicsandros.co.uk/shop/WW2-c39342038 Depending on how much shipping is to South America it might be cheaper to buy from GHQ, as I said in the video they're really nice models but quite expensive www.ghqmodels.com/collections/wwii-1-285-6mm-scale-1