My uncles buddies friends nephews roommate had a 92 corolla that had a misfire at 7000rpm on Tuesday when it was raining and a sparkplug fixed it. May give it a shot
Idk why I didnt think to ask Alex from Legit Street Cars if anyone would know how to fix this problem its him for sure. I've seen him work on a white one just like yours and he was a Mercedes tech before he started doing more RU-vid. Definitely reach out to him.
I would try reaching out to Alex at Legit Street Cars he knows a ton on those AMG’s. I almost wonder if it could be a fuel pressure issue or fuel pressure regulator issue.
Alex over at the Legit Street Cars channel used to be a Mercedes Benz Cert mechanic, he would be a good guy to get in touch with, he seems like a great dude. Just a thought. I couldnt touch this ptoject, had a few 03 Cobras and one 99 Lightning, those im comfortable with 😂
Dude that SUCKS. I feel your pain. Great video as always. Idk if you watch Legit Street Cars but he was a prior master tech at mercedes for years. Id reach out to him. Hes a great dude.
Hi, it's very difficult to diagnose a car by "remote" and without a real diagnostic tool... however, based on the dealer list of codes I can see P0653 that's interesting. The other 06 codes are misfires and the result of misfires. P0653 refers to a missing 5v reference. 5v reference is like the nervous system of the car (ECU) and is used to send/recieve signals from various sensors. The mechanical parts seem to be in order so it's very likely that the ECU doesn't like some recieved data. The fact that it tooks about 3 seconds to light the MIL says that it has a strategy to go into limp mode if let's say in this case commands 15 degrees cams, but doesn't see a 15 degrees cam during 3 seconds of commanding. Normally I would say a camshaft position sensor (not actuator), but on your reader seemed ok... having a 5v reference code could lead to a camshaft sensor fault (the sensors are powered by the 5v ref) in a way that the ECU doesn't recieve the camshaft sensor signal because the sensor itself it's not powered up or maybe the sensor pulls the 5v to ground because is broken. The other codes are MB specific codes and I can't find them online. You should get a decent diagnostic tool (they do decode the brand specific codes). So...play around with the camshaft sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 and see if the fault moves from bank to bank. Check for wire integrity especially in the sensors area - vibrations/heat points. The fact that does seem to work fine with the actuator disconnected is because the ECU disables all the variable timming system and gets to a pre-determined map. Regarding the professional technicians on RU-vid check with SuperMario Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan and especially Tasos Moschatos (specialized in AMG). Forget about wizards and legit streets BS. If you have any details about the symptoms write them, I'll be happy to share my knowledge. Cheers!
@@ChrisSullivan69 No problem! You have nice videos. Go with basic stuff on this situation. Stop investing a lot of time and money in the mechanical parts. You did a good job in the beginning so it should be all good over just 10k miles. The fact that it ran ok when you finished the first time means there's something else that got wrong elsewhere. I'm betting you have an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. So go basic at first....wires and sensors. At 1500 rpm something changes and the ECU doesn't recieve the confirmation that has changed as required. I'm not very sure is the timing...you should have had misfires on all the bank 1 cylinders. Yours is flagging mostly nr.1....the oders might be just the ECU interpreting wrongly.
@@cuntnuggets4587 A bad component like a sensor can pull down a 5v ref. Not necessarily a bad PCM... probably an intermittent fault, otherwise more errors would have come up on the Xentry scan, 5v power up many components, that's the reason why usually are more than one 5v ref, in case of a short on one of them it doesn't kill everything. But at this point are just suppositions...a real diagnostic must be made to understand the details.
@@alexdragomirescu5084 yea but a sensor pulling down a 5v would cause it all the time him cutting off the key should not change it. Hints why i say pcm. Oil pressure switches or temp sensors are usually all the time problems not only at 1500 rpm
Check that there is no voltage drops and you alternator is working good. Mine did the same in 3000 RPM range. I did get lots of misfires and ECM put my car in limb mode. I did read codes with manufacturers diagnostic software, it did tell my ECM was bad. My ECM was fine, it was only poorly working altenator which coused spikes and voltage drops in electric system, even with a new fully charged battery. My misfire / limb mode issue was gone after alternator change.
Hi, did you get misfire on both banks or only one bank? Mine is misfiring only on bank one. Also tried everything. So maybe it's the alternator. I just want to know did it affect both banks?
I had the same issue last month, Multi miss fire only in one side (driver side) I tried everything and the issue didn't go to the other bank. So I opened the valve cover and found out that one of the adjuster plate (the upper one was damaging the Camshaft Adjuster Cover. Creating a hollow ring inside the Camshaft Adjuster Cover) my clue was when I opened the VVT Solenoid I found some aluminum on the screen of the VVT Solenoid. GL and check them out.
I was thinking the same thing. They essentially charged him for not doing a damn thing. If they had found the exact problem that would have been a different story.
Okay I'm not going to suggest another car channel, but why if you unplug the cam shaft adjuster solenoid would you not replace that part? Did you confirm it's working properly? Seems like the next move if the car runs fine while it's unplugged. Love this channel as it shows the failures and the wins!
I was going to suggest the same. They do go bad, one did on my car. Replace it for immediate fix Timing is spot on, obviously the adjusters are okay, there is nothing that goes bad with them besides the dreaded wear by the pin Also, even minor air leaks on these engines can make them act up. I would replace that air duct going into the manifold as well
Get some ignition waveforms and analyze them. Lets see if we are dealing with a spark issue (ECU, wiring ect) or an Air or fuel issue. Shout out to Pine Hollow and ScannerDanner and see if they can't help throw you some clues. Good luck! Cheers!
I had a similarly extremely irritating misfire problem..........turns out it was a fuel delivery issue. I don't know what controls the fuel pressure on that fancy motor, but maybe it's similar.
Verify that the connector on the fuel pump housing is not burned . Could be that the fuel controller is reporting to ecu an issue and then the ecu triggers misfires as a safety.
What if you swapped the actuators left to right see ir maybe it follows the issue to the other bank? Also maybe a knock sensor is misinterpreting the harmonics at those rpm’s as misfire? Good luck with it too🙌
Modern Masters is literally assembling a 6.3 engine from the block and is going through each step for the cams from start to the cam plates at the end in their latest video just now. Maybe ensure his work and your work mirrored to help rule out a step missed where the problem could be coming from.
I have been waiting for your update in the hopes you would direct me to a cause. I have a 2011 E63 AMG that is giving me FITS. I have gone through a similar situation. 87k miles at the time of service. No misfires. Bad rattle on start. I replaced the cam adjuster plates with 63 Motorsports parts. I used your video as my guide. Bought the same parts from FCP and the same timing tool from Amazon. I also replaced the valve cups as you did. I put it all back together and have been chasing my tail ever since. I've been throwing misfires especially at low rpms. I've been in the valve train three times, taken the adjusters apart twice and then had a local shop that has lots of m156 experience help me out. They found that even though I had set the timing using the timing tool, the engine may have rotated a tiny bit past 40 before TDC when I torqued the camshaft bolts and they corrected the timing. The worst of the timing issues are sorted and have narrowed to only misfires on the bank 2 (driver's side) exhaust camshaft. I still get random misfires. Like you, I have replaced the spark plugs, coil packs and all new cam position sensors. My car will run and drive, and will actually clear the exhaust camshaft timing CEL by itself and then a week later throw the code again. I'm still driving it, but I've got this one code that I cannot figure out. So, you are not the only one with timing/misfire issues after replacing the camshaft plates. And I am frustrated and baffled as to what else could be causing the problem. My next try will be a test from my diagnostic tool where you warm the car up and then run the engine at between 2700-3500 rpms for 15 seconds for the camshafts to relearn timing.
Damn, suks man! I'll keep you posted. Mine ran fine after doing the plates but i still did a cam position re-learn on them. Going to try that on mine as well once I get a Xentry setup
Oil pressure issue Probably getting excess bleed off pressure from worn valve lifters Looks like that’s a common issue on those motors I.E. class action lawsuit
@@ryanmartell9470haha you raise a valid point. I feel his pain big time just had to send my pcm out for testing on my mustang after weeks of trouble shooting. Thankfully enough I got a work rig so don’t need a daily daily lol
Are you seeing a voltage drop to the coils at the affected rpm range? The fact that it’s both banks and random has me questioning sufficient voltage to either your coil packs or injectors during misfire. Take your dmm and check for voltage drop to either. Possibly even oscilloscope both as well to make sure they’re in range.
In HP tuners make RPM vs MAP graphs that have: angle des/act, custom math for error of des/act…. Drive around and fill in the table. See what the cams are doing on the road.
I wondering if you have a short in a wire somewhere or the ecu is going bad. I had a Buick Regal grand sport and I was going up the Hwy one evening running around 80mph and the car just shuts off! Lights still on no motor. I thought my foot had slipped off the gas, nope , it came back on after about 5 seconds. Got off the Hwy and pulled into a gas station and looked under the hood and didn’t see nothing. Made it home, next day same thing so I take it to the Buick dealership and told them the issue and told them to keep it running as long as you can, take it to lunch whatever. So they call and say it’s ready. Get there and they replaced a couple sensors, I told them that’s not the problem, they assure me it is. So next morning I’ve got to go out of town and the damn thing shuts down at the end of my driveway and I’m furious!! So I call the dealership and they send a tow truck and I ask what’s the tow gonna cost. So about 3:30 they call and said it’s ready and this is on a Saturday. I go up there and walk right into the bay and see my car with the hood up and a old man leans out from under the hood and I ask what’s did you find and he holds up the computer. Which I kinda thought was the issue. So I go to the cash out and tell them I want to speak to the highest person they have available and they called the owner of the dealership and I told him what was going on and basically I got credited for the sensors that wasn’t the problem and got the computer for cost and they also put $30.00 more dollars on the tow bill that really pissed me off, that’s when I ask to speak to the chief that was in charge! Good Luck.
Check whether the reluctor shifted on the cam. It would basically appear as if your timing is ok but the actual sprocket is not in the correct position on the camshaft as the reluctor shifted.
When you solve this issue, you're going to look back and say to yourself how weird was that?? You have plenty of suggestions below and you have tried most of them. I look forward to you solving this one and making a video on it. Good luck and don't give up!!
Here is an idea - hook up the oil pressure gauge to the car. You might be getting not enough oil pressure below 2K. Your phasers are fine, but you also have the electronic solenoid valves with screens on them - check if the screens are clean, which could be a reason for low pressure going to the phasers. I am willing to bet its oil pressure related.
LS swap!!! haha jk jk. you mentioned it but i was going to say maybe look into the harness. bad grounds like to cause so many issues. yes ecu's are expensive but that's always a possibility that the ecu is just being a little b*tch. i like how you wont give up on it. you're more of a patient man than me. I would have gotten rid of it. haha
I recently fought an issue with a family member’s 750li where it would have a random misfire on throttle and occasionally, shutdown the car. Changed coils, plugs, filters, you name it. Ended up being the FPCM
Chris, you should do a compression test and/or cylinder leak down test. To check the overall health and condition of the motor. You may or may not be experiencing a burnt/bent valve, valve/head issue, or even piston ring leakage, etc. I would do that first before attempting anything else or even throwing different parts, more money and your valuable time at it. Hope that little bit helps!
In Europe, for I guess regulatory/tax purposes, the engine displacement is always rounded up to the next tenth of a liter. So while they certainly could put a "6.2" badge on it as far as I know, maybe they leaned into it and figured, if you're going to tax it at 6.3, then it's a 6.3. EDIT: lol, I paused it right before he explained.
Only a few minutes in and I'm screaming fuel pump or fuel delivery. Oh, I forgot it runs well most of the time. I thought it was a crank no start because it's been so long. Now I'm thinking oil in the wiring harness screwing up the cam position sensor readings, during a specific RPM range. You may be able to graph all four cam positions and see if it glitches at 1500. Ideally this is a job for an oscilloscope. I know you checked the ECU but check the individual harness plugs for oil (cam solenoids and position sensors).
There is a Xentry test for cam adjuster control. You should do those tests and make sure it is satisfied with the control of each one. I got the Benz Ninja for my setup. There are cheaper ways to do it but you pay him once and then buy the things he recommends and you end up with a WORKING setup that he fully supports. Or you can drive down to RI and I'll hook mine up....
I think you said you changed the solenoid, have you checked pcv lines going to that solenoid to make sure there is no blockage? You said it works when hose is unplugged.
I think like others about electrical issues. It's not mechanical for sure. Engine do is thing right but ECU see something wrong. You do everything mechanical. Try to found the colored electrical diag, and understand how the cam position system work. Than pok into wire near the cam position sensor to see if you have all signal like power ground and 5 V reference. They exist some needle tool for that.If you found something wrong break down the system to connector and found where it's good from there trace down wire to found the faulty wire. Im surprised MB didn't do this. They jump on the well know issues the cam phaser. Good luck.
I had an E 55. Great car but the best way to own a Mercedes is lease them that way you can just pound them like crazy and return it at the end of the lease. You do not want to buy a 7 to 15 year old Mercedes you’ll go broke fixing it.
Hey bro been watching you for a minute now I’m thinking it’s the head gasket causing your misfires just a thought. Keep putting out awesome contents and good luck!! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Your misfire is due to oil migration through sensors and wiring harness and into control modules. Unplug your sensors (all sensors) and inspect for oil contamination. Replace sensor’s, clean your harness. Drain, clean and dry any module or computer that is contamination.
I have my 2012 Mercedes amg e63 same color but with the M157 engine I just hope I don’t run into a problem like this I’ve babied my engine and use it as a daily for 3 years now and it has 150k miles still runs fine and it still has the original timing chain that isn’t stretched
Hey guys, I just got my very first M157 2013 I’m so excited to experience this car. I had one question I feel like my lifters are bad. What other parts can I change “while i am at it”as Chris says since I’m removing the valve covers any other parts that I can change? Thank you and I really hope you find what’s wrong with the M156
When they test it with their diagnostic system it says it can’t see the position, but your HP system can see it. Could the ecu be having issues with not seeing the cam sensor position for some weird ass reason?!? Kind of like the cobra, SCT vs HP tuner being a stupid reason why it wouldn’t run right?!?
Question on the long term fuel trim running lean did you power brake it to see if the numbers drop which indicates a vacuum leak. Also on the vvti on that bank you unplug and started running find did you remove and visual check and test that Solenoid
Chris, I know everyone is saying to replace the alternator but I would do the voltage regulator first. I did it in my E320 OM 648 solved my voltage issue.
Damn Chris after ALL THAT and STILL NOTHING!? Even the "Merc Techs" seemed to be guessing like most of us did decades ago!..Sad!! I know,check the points and the float level..that'll fix it! I KNOW how much you enjoy that car as your daily so stick with it! It's a GREAT car with a "cold",if anyone can find the cure its you!! Good luck!
Tow it to Chicago to legit street quarters so we can all go out for some Chicago style pizza and talk LS stuff. But really it comes a point where you have to have another set of eyes on it and no not the Benz dealer because they just want to bend you over. You’d be surprised at how cheap it is to just have someone fix it or help fix it over your time wasted on it. Had a similar issue with a 16 kx250f where I could not get it to start cold for the life of me. Ended up taking it to a shop and they only charged me $50 to diag the bad fuel pump. Money well spent as you are going to waste a bunch on diagnostic equipment you will only end up using once.
Mercedes! Nice cars when they actually run. When they don’t it gets expensive. Not to mention the overly complex design with all the electronics. This is just another example. Probably the best sounding Mercedes I’ve heard in a while. The fact Mercedes couldn’t find the issue with their Master Mechanics and their specific Mercedes diagnostics software doesn’t look good for Mercedes or the electronics they utilize.
Have you verified that the alternator/ voltage regulator you replaced is still good? My E92 M3 had several gremlins I was chasing & couldn’t fix. Misfires, hard shifting on the low shift setting & even trans malfunction when getting on it. Turned out it was the alternator. Also had the same symptoms as you have in my 2000 mustang GT. A lot of frustrating nights working on it. Eventually realized the ECU was bad.
As a former enjoyer of germanic cars, your pain makes me feel like turning back to my mustang roots was the right call. My heavily modified 08 GT500 runs like a dream.....quickly finding a wood surface to knock....
Oh man.....we all SOOOO feel for you!! I would MUCH rather something just completely break so I can repair it!! Keep at it Chris!! I know you've seen these comments but Alex at Legit Street Cars might be some help.
my cousins uncle 2nd time removed but forgaven had a toyota corolla that the #8 cylinder was running lean on rice so we added soy sauce and it fixed it
Hey Chris, I read something about Fuel rails and fuel rail pressure sensors and quantity control vales for the M157... maybe poke around the fuel system, rails and sensors
I hate seeing problems like this that doesn't make any sense. It looks like it's not a mechanical problem. And definitely electrical or insufficient ground. I know you checked the ECU harness for oil or damage. Did you remove the ECU to check inside the connection? It's free to look just incase. The next step, checking the harness for melted wires. Hope you get it figured out and great video as always. Good luck!
Hey Chris! i’m no where near a mercedes tech and i really don’t have any experience around them, but i think i have an idea. so the cam shaft adjustment SENSOR has to be a plug in like you said in your video. you unplugged it and it ran fine. MAYBE you and the techs over looked the inside of the sensor itself and one of the prongs are just shorting out on the cam shaft adjustment. it might be obvious but it could be one of those moments where you checked everything but that.
