My DENIED FORD engine has MORE DAMAGE!! Mustang Shelby GT350 REBUILD Part 4! 

I work for a little race engine shop here in the UK. i thought i would add my bit and explain some of this stuff. First the con rods, they need the side clearance to allow the oil to escape. when the oil escapes it take with it the heat from the bearing cooling it. if you have too big of a gap you will not have enough pressure at the bearing face, the crank and bearing will touch and the bearing will fail. Too little gap and the bearing will overheat and fail. just check this against the manual when re assembling. Piston failure like you have got is normally the result of ring ends butting. normally caused by the rings getting too hot expanding, butting and having nowhere to go. probably down to numerous factors like, that cylinder was a little leaner and it is the furthest from the water pump. Don't worry about the damage to the squish (quench). just remove the high spots. it doesn't look like there is too much damage around the valve seat. The block just needs boring. You will be amazed what a 20thou over will clean up.

Hello Doris, I know you have many experts chiming in so I figured I'd give my 2 cents. I'm a senior master tech at a Ford dealer and am the Houston region tech representative on the Ford technician review panel. It looks like a short block would be in your best interest, unless you have a great machine shop that you can get a sponsorship from. Anytime a scratch is deep enough to catch a fingernail on, usually means machining or replacing! Those tiny pieces of hardened metal have floated around the engine and did a job on the oiled surfaces. You're doing a great job with the teardown! Never be afraid to try something like this!

I love this! i love that you are taking pieces apart and explaining how its done i really enjoy watching a car be redone. most videos on them don't explain everything. Thank you for doing this. I always wanted to be a mechanic but it was so much thoughts of worry. but you just dove right in there. most things I've done were things changing oil and replacing things simple things.

That engine definitely looks like it was oil-starved on the back cylinders according to what I saw on the bearings. I would definitely replace the oil pump and check the relief valve (and replace the seal for the pickup tube of course). Also, when you send it to the machine shop, you might get them to remove the plugs in the oil galleries and run a rod through them to insure that none are partially blocked. I'm thinking that damaged pickup tube seal was the root of your problem (i.e. sucking air and foaming the oil). Best to cover all the bases on something like this though. Good work so far!😉👍

She rebuilding engines while I’m over here still looking for the 10mm

Hi, first off your doing great 😉. Im a technician from uk and would like to awnser some of your questions. First off; those bearing shells, at that millage there should be little to no wear at all and the wear you should see in a healthy engine would be very slight but more importantly smooth however, the wear we saw on yours looks like slight scoring as well as the lines you spoke of, this suggests they have “picked up” or in leyland terms they have have a lack in oil pressure and this would be the same for your piston damage too, which to me at first looked a little like pre detonation damage but this would make sense if it was lacking oil pressure at one point as the internal engine temp would rise and possibly cause pre det. Next, the cylinder head damage; from what i could see that is 💯 reusable with a little cleaning around the damage by smoothing carefully the dents and craters out then getting it skimmed. Next, the block; yes they look to be be steel lined anyway so any good machine shop would be able to cut the old liner out and put a new liner in and re hone the rest so to awnser your question that too is easily fixable. Last of all i dont know what pistons and conrods you will be using but i suggest forged h beam rods with a decent forged piston set if you want to run decent power reliably as they not only obviously handle power better but they will cope with slight pre detonations easier too when tuning. Also those bearing faces on the rods should show no wear at all as the shell bearing should not be rotating in the rods when torqued down, if they have been then thats also a sign of lack of oil pressure. If you need any any more help or have any more questions im happy to help or talk you through anything you need. Good luck! 🤪

This is amazing that you dove in head first and decided to learn to go this far into the engine. Wishing you the best for the rebuild.

The movement of the rods is side clearance, you can measure it with a feeler gauge, but pretty normal.

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Being that this is an expensive rebuild...I would have your crank sent out for polishing...as well as having it mic'd....this way your clearances for your bearings are 100 percent....polishing ensures the new bearings will have a better than new surface to ride on...reducing wear as well long term....I would replace the oil pump......whenever your that deep into a motor it's a given to replace it....not sure what pistons your gonna choose...but if you send out the block for deglazing have your bores measured for round...making sure they are not oval.....you really are just making sure that the bore didn't cause that ring lan failure....usually it will crack the skirt of the piston but you never know.....it will pay dividends to send it out have it hot tanked degalzed ...measured and spec'd for pistons....are you building the short block?...also send the heads for sure....look into decking it for gasket seal.....something wasnt happy inside that motor and you have to eliminate everything...good luck doris

The engine was oil starved at the back, knowing that this car is tracked, an upgraded oil pump, an oil pan baffle (huge huge must) and of course be sure to use the correct weight oil and also make sure to change oil before track days regardless of miles on the oil change. The issue that happened here was a mix between not so great engine design and oil starvation.

6:14 pro tip: before removing pistons/rods use a number punch and mark the rod and rod end 1 through 8 corresponding with the cylinders. Then, once you break torque you loosen the bolts (or nuts if you run studs) a few turns and use a plastic mallet to tap on the heads of the bolts to separate the rod end from the rod and free up the rod from the bearing journal on the crankshaft. If you're replacing everything it really doesn't matter but say you don't intend to be replacing components this allows you to put them back in the correct location and prevent damage from disassembly. But doing this is good practice even if replacing everything so you can easily see what cylinders had damage upon inspection after disassembly. Not all damage is obvious so this just makes it easier to note what damage occurred where. Every bit of wear or damage is telling you a story about how the engine was doing so the better you document it the better you can plan to prevent a future issue or even failure. It's already costing you money once, it's even worse when the issue repeats itself!

I’d recommend not reusing any bearings. You have the motor apart you should use new bearings and check all of your clearances.

When installing or removing pistons or crankshaft journal caps always use a dead blow hammer a regular hammer will damage or distort the rods and journals

Answers to your 2 main concerns: 1) Short block doesn't need to be replaced, just replace the sleeve (non flanged). Don't accept reboring as a fix, you're running a tuned engine so you'll want wall strength. The thinner the sleeve, the more likely it is that you'll burst through to the water jacket... especially if you eventually run boost. Any good machine shop specialized in engines will resleeve this easily. 2) Cylinder head scoring can be welded and machined. May as well also take the opportunity to port and flow the head. As you're planning to use new valves, these should be ground and polished to the seats using a fine grinding paste to get a perfect seal. 3) Wear on bearing material was likely caused by metal filings making its way through the oiling system. The disassembled block and heads should be run through ultrasonic baths to remove all the residual oil varnish and to flush out all the metal filings. 4) Since you are going to be taking the block and heads to a machine shop, I highly suggest providing them with the whole rotating assembly. Have all the pistons and rods balanced, and the crankshaft inspected (due to issues cylinder 8) balanced and polished. Unless you have the tools to measure, may as well get them to gap the piston rings for you too. Also the Perfect time to get your engine blue printed 😉 Good luck with the rebuild, you're doing an amazing job!!

Just a few ideas, make sure nothing bumps the crank journals on dis and assembly. Note each rod and main cap location and orientaion. Sleave number 8, hone the rest. Replace at least the one piston, all new rings/bearings. Inspect internals of oil pump. Looks like some debris went thru the rod bearings (lines on the bearing). With chambers up on the heads and plugs installed, pour liquid (water or fuel) in each chamber and see if there is leakage down the ports, or pour into the ports and check chambers. No leaks means no problem there. The debris from number 8 rings/piston went thru that exhaust port, stopping to munch that seat. Replace that seat. Looks to me like the oil ring was bound up on factory assembly and ate the wall... You should get a set of mics and a bore gauge.

As forensic teardowns go, this is thorough, organized, with appropriate redundancy. Solid work.

I have built many engines and I really am impressed at how clean and efficient you work and you really know alot and I’m willing to bet your more knowledgeable than most bafoons in the dealer I seen them in action too I used to work next to them your really impressive

Good on you for doing this! Back in my 20's, I rebuilt a small block Chevy... and accidentally put the pistons in backwards... make sure when you're putting them back that if there's a front/back directionality to them, that you get it right, or it'll seize immediately!

It's great your spending that much time learning about your engine. Most of working on cars is common sense. Some people think they were born with a wrench in their hand, but being a great mechanic has a lot to do with also having an intuitive and thoughtful understanding of mechanical engineering. A lot of that comes with experience. Just keep wrenching.

Just as a recommendation I would bolt the rod caps back on and mic the caps for roundness as well as mic the rod journals on the crank shaft too.

Doris, the bearing all look ok imo, the minor scoring is probably from debris from your broken piston/ring getting into the oil system. Typically seen in all engine failures. Shouldn't be any concern. The head damage doesn't look bad since its not on a wear or sealing surface. Please have your machine shop look at the exhaust valve seat to make sure the valve seat is ok. The cylinder damage should be repairable, although I don't know if there are any issues I'm unaware of since i never built one of these engines. The failure does appear to be ring lands, and the missing pieces were digested by your engine, most are probably trapped in your catalytic converter or exhaust, and some got into your oiling system causing minor bearing scoring that doesn't concern me, just get all the grit out, perhaps with a steam cleaner, or let the machine shop "cold tank" your block. My gut feeling is you will need a new cylinder sleeve, new pistons rings and bearings. Mill the heads and check the exhaust valve seat that the piston parts passed through, and perhaps replace the one valve, the rest can be reground and reused. Dont worry about the black valves, it was because the cylinder was leaking oil into exhaust, but can easily be cleaned. You can measure the rod bearing side play with feeler gauges to confirm it's within spec. If not, I would be surprised, as that is not likely anything that happened under your watch. If that gap is excessive, it probably came that way from factory. Keep in mind that although I have been building engines since the 1970s, I've never done one of these but have been ASE certified master auto tech since 1985 (ret). My gut feeling is you didn't cause this and many of these motors seem to be eating pistons and Ford should step up and cover this, or at least give you a new engine. This car was built to race, and nothing you did should cause piston failure. I think it should have taken everything you threw at it and more. I would consult a lawyer. Discoloration of the cylinders doesn't concern me, but your machine shop needs to take a closer look. If you want, get a micrometer and check your crank journals, or let your machine shop do it for you, but it's highly unlikely to be a problem there. Did your engine have good oil pressure after the failure? If you are unsure, I'd have the pump checked just to be safe. If I can be of any help, let me know. Loved the video!

Your such a champ for taking this on. Amazing progress! keep up the hard work. Catch you on the next one!

I'm a middle aged man watching a girl in a garage that costs more than my house, what went wrong in my life 8(

Looks like micro piece of the Piston dome ran thru the oiling system and did the grooving and scratches in the journals, Main Bearing Caps and Probably oil pump too.

The cylinder head may be able to be saved by replacing the valve seat and some welding and machining. Most important when reassembling the cylinder head regardless of who has done the machine work the valve seat concentricity must be checked with a dial gauge. TRW have a valve seat concentricity tool which slides over a valve guide pilot which is inserted into the guide. The tool slides onto the pilot and the arm of the tool sits on the valve seat and you can rotate the arm around the seat to check for bumps. The specifications are maximum valve seat run out 2.5 thou. If there is a bump higher than 2.5 thou then you will have a constant vacuum leak. I always spent the extra time getting the run out to 0. Keep up the good work.

Hello,I checked out your video,the side to side play on your piston rods are normal,the cylinder wall where the scratches are,if the are deep to where they will catch your finger nail then you're need to get it bored over..your cylinder head,if the gashes not too deep,take them to an head shop and see can they repair and have them to check for cracks as well. My 06 gto had that same problem,had to get it bored. 030 over.but you are doing an great job,all you need is patience and you'll get it done,lol i tore my engine down and reassembled it..it takes time..don't rush it..

Excellent job on the disassembly. Very organized n well thought out. I cannot wait to see what components you use on the re-assembly. It’s gonna be a beast I bet. You should go boosted. Get some forged dished pistons n a supercharger. Love watching you work. Hopefully a network picks you up n gives you a show🤩

You've gone farther than I've gone into my motor. Seems like a lot of people have been commenting with their opinion. Keep up the good work!

Am I the only one over here marveling at how clean she keeps her garage and work space? I wish my garage was that clean and organized😂

5:57 IDK what the spec is for a Ford engine but you have clearance between the rods and the crank or else they would rub and build up friction and heat. There is also clearance between all rod and main bears and the journals for oil clearance. Most modern engines run a tight oil clearance unless opened up a little for high performance applications. For example I know on LS engines they can be as little as .001 for oil clearance from the factory but for say an engine for drag racing making a lot of power might have it around .003 to allow a lot more oil. The reason for this is because when the cylinder fires and the piston comes down it has a lot of force and wants to squirt the oil out from between the bearing and the journal. The larger clearance allows more oil to act as a cushion more or less and prevent all the oil from squirting out and having metal to metal contact. Also, more oil clearance allows for a heavier weight oil that helps even more.

First not enough room to say everything. But I’ve been wrenching over 50 years I’m super impressed with you. At exactly 10.52 mins you made a statement about rod wear on rod minus the bearing. The two half’s of the bearing are stationary in the rod cap journal area and don’t spin within the rod assembly. That browning you see on that rod with bearing out is ok. YOU ARE Great !!

Your positive outlook shows through Your VLOG, definitely inspires me to go back to turning the wrench..

I've got to give you props for taking on this huge project. Good job! Triple.

There is a rod clearance. Check it in your manual. When assembly check the journal to rod clearance, either with plasticgage or micrometer. I use both as a precaution. Also when torching the rod bolts use a stretch meter.

my dad would remove old rod and main bearings on the mains and would take 1/4 inch soft brass round stock, either hammer it into a nearly flat for removing the bearings like you are just tapping them with the brass tool around the curve from the side that has no notch. get an inch out and you can just roll them out with a light tug. brass round stock was always great to work with softer surfaces because it would deform before doing anything to the tougher metals of the block or crank. before you rebuild the engine, something as serious as the engine that runs that hard and high rpm, use new engine fasteners, dont reuse the ones that are exposed to such high torque or lots of heat cycles. its relatively cheap insurance for something so expensive. ive built a few 427 side oilers and they redlined at 7500rpm and always used new bolts, even on the oil pan, for no other reason than they came in the set. i sure miss hitting 5th gear on the long flat straight roads in that 66 fairlane and humming along at 6000rpm and 150 or so mph

That rod sode to side play is normal just need to use a feeler and make sure its within spec

Some went out your exhaust. Some small pieces are embedded in your bearings, and the rest went in the oil and oil filter.

First off I'd like to congratulate on taking the initiative to fix your own HIGH PREFORMACE ENGINE... BRAVO! During disassembly on the rod caps you can use an impact driver to just zip the bolts out, also to avoid a rod cap from flying out of control, lift one of the bolts and lightly tap it with a dead blow hammer until you see the cap move. Once you see this use both bolt and squeeze them together and lift your cap out and place accordingly. Further, this is a high performance engine the piston removal is going to be a little more difficult due to the rings being tighter. If you can find a hardened plastic drift punch tap the rod lightly until it clears the crank (be careful not to scratch the crank) then with your strongest hand push the rod straight down keeping your other hand near the bore and catch the piston. I would suggest watching POWER NATION videos on engine rebuilding, tons of great engine building videos.

"Seems pretty simple" OMG, I was having trouble replacing my rack on an F150...you are pretty amazing. This would be way beyond my comfort level. Good for you for going for it!

When removing your pistons and main caps make sure you put them back on the exact way they came off. They're machined together so if you put them on a different main or flip them tolerances will be messed up binding and other bad things will happen. Would definitely recommend buying a micrometer and bore guages. Check your tolerances MULTIPLE times. Also watch as many engine building videos as you can find so you can get the correct tolerances for all your new bearings and everything like that. I want to build a 351w for my 95 cobra so I've been watching lots of videos and you can never watch too many. Take your time do your research before you reassemble and I'm sure you'll have one hell of a confidence boost under your belt!! Good luck Doris. I believe in you

I'm always impressed by the work you do you really have a good head on your shoulders and your not scared to ask that's a good trait keep it up girl 👍

You have done an outstanding job on the teardown. Keep in mind, your comments regarding reassemble. Use the correct bolts and correct torque sequence.

The salt and pepper are the piston fragments you were looking for. They were chewed up in the combustion chamber and some of them got between the piston and cylinder wall. They can blow back up through the intake as well and down into other cylinders. You probably had some of that salt in the oil too when you drained it. If you cut the filter open, it will be there too. The carbon build up is due to incomplete combustion, caused by the broken piston ring land, which in turn broke the ring. The ring land breaks when it cannot handle the combustion pressure. The diagonal marks on the backs of the bearing shells are not a problem. What you look for there are locator tabs that are shaved off the bearing shells and scoring on the backs of the bearings and the block, caps or rods in the rotational plane, which is known as a spun bearing. The only spinning should be the crank journal on a film of oil in the babbit. That would require corrective action. Fortunately you don't have any spun bearings. The patterns on the babbitt are kind of weird. Maybe some chemical etching going on from fuel contamination after the ring land broke. Fuel is not a good lubricant for bearings, nor is coolant, which has a unique coloration and peeling of the babbitt. As for concerns of possible oil starvation due to pump type supply issues, you need to look at the oil galley diagram to see where the pump output enters the main galley. (Mopar guy here, so an example I know) On an old 318 CID, 7 & 8 are the back 2 cylinders. The pump feeds the main galley with a tee intersection between the 4th and 5th main. At the galley it splits in both directions and dead ends at the rear of the engine within inches and the front after over a foot. Pressure builds at main 5 first, which supplies rods 7 & 8. Pressure then builds at main 1 and works back to main 4, making main 4 the starve bearing of the 5 mains. Main 4 feeds rods 5 & 6, which are drilled at opposite angles and maybe differing locations in the rotation (I forget). The opposite angles and or rotational position make rod 6 the starve bearing on a Chrysler 318. Every engine group has its own starve pattern (i.e. FCA's 273, 318, 340 and 360 are all the same in terms of oiling), which also transfers into the cylinder head, which has its own galleys for the cams. As for the warranty coverage, after seeing this repair series, I checked your playlists and found the E85 tuner mod install, comments in one of the dyno videos about issues getting the tune dialed in, dyno testing and racing on the track. I don't know the Ford warranty, but the FCA warranty could void the engine on mods or the racing. The above is based on 20 years as an FCA tech followed by 22 years in automotive forensics. Nonetheless, this is an impressive undertaking for someone seemingly not trained in the business. Oh, and on the crank pulley puller, the center bolt seems a little skimpy in diameter, more like a steering wheel puller. On the first puller, you can also try unbolting the puller arms and flipping them as well. They may still have been too big to get in there, but keep that in mind.

I would invest in buying micrometor, and other measurement equipment to properly built that engine

Doris over here being master mechanic I’m over here just taking it all in like I know what I’m looking at 😂

I love your videos. And actually am going to steal your idea for the red towels how you place and organize parts. I really want to start getting into engines more and it’s awesome to watch and the process and things you Run into also!

Hot tank the engine block at the machine shop and have them check it with a black light to inspect for potential cracks, and if so, replace the block. If block is O.K. have it bored .030 over, and of course, hone all cylinders 60 degrees cross hatch. Replace connecting rods with lightweight high performance ones, same with bearings, pistons and rings. Have the crankshaft balanced. Use plastigage to check connecting rods to crankshaft tollerances. Install piston rings with seams 180° opposed from each other i.e. alternating order. Use the best rebuild kit for your engine, no cheap kits, as your engine block is the foundation of your vehicle, just as a good house foundation is critical before you build a house. Have the heads remachined and fitted to the block and use roller rocker arms, new push rods and replace any bad valve guides. Replace valve springs with high performance ones. Use high quality racing valves. Replace camshaft with a new racing performance one. Replace injectors with racing ones. Replace plugs with autolite for Mustang and high performance ignition cables. Buy the engine programmer to dial in performance parameters. Regarding connecting rods play, it is measured with a feeler gauge, so check factory specs.

knowing that you want to learn how to do this stuff makes it difficult to suggest this as trying is learning but, after learning the hard way for many years and after many years now building strong reliable engines i suggest you ring texas speed and order a short motor, explain how you want it to drive and the power your looking for then you can unbox it, drop it in , get on with your life, knowing you will also have warranty behind you if it pops again , if yours pops again your back to square one. that block is scrap in reality and the head is too, they can be fixed at a price.rebuilding yours yourself might seem like the cheaper and more fun options but its not, it will be a pain in your arse for ever more.. just my opinion , i`m not always right but i`m also not always wrong. my main concern is that ford have the cheek to backheal the repair, a GT350 that shits a ring seat on pump gas !!!! they should replace your engine out of shame for building it weak in the first place ! and burnt build lube on the shells, big and main is just unprofessional . throw it together , warm it up and get it sold isnt the way forward FORD . SHAME ..

Dive in, ask questions. That's how you learn! Great vids

Nice work. Much respect to you for doing this. I don’t think I would ever attempt this. But I also don’t have the equipment and space to either. But even if I did I probably would’ve just looked for a donor rather than attempt a rebuild so props to you for taking the challenge on! You’ll know more about this engine than just about anyone short of a ford engineer when it’s done.

Don't know if anybody else mentioned this but usually with that kind of scoring in a cylinder you would need to bore the cylinder and replace the piston. You don't really just want to do one cylinder so that means a new set of pistons and reboring the whole block. This is an aluminum block with steel or cast iron sleeves. There is a limit to how much you can bore these blocks...old cast iron blocks had more material but were much heavier. You need to measure the bore with a good bore gauge but this damage doesn't look too bad. It might clean up on .010" oversize. There should be a spec on that and it depends on what oversize pistons are available for it but the only way to tell for sure is to put it into the honing machine and bore it until it cleans. Any scoring left at all will cause it to blow oil. You need a good machine shop. :-) Good Luck!

Should be no wear on back side of the bearings but the inside of the bearing look really bad for 5k miles almost like it had alot of grit in the oil

She's out here rebuilding engines like a damn champ meanwhile I'm struggling trying to replace my oil cooler line... lmao bruh

Of note: watch for any fastener that is "torque to yield". These are one-time-use-only bolts. They are tightened until they yield or stretch. Once removed they are tossed and replaced. Also, large-end piston rod side clearance should be checked with a feeler gauge. Your manual should have the range specified. Rod caps should not have any gouges. If they do the bearing has spun. The rod caps must be installed on the same rod in the same direction they were removed from. The "black ring" you see is there the piston stops its downward travel and starts back up. Similar to the wear ridge near the top of the cylinder. Good work so far. Keep it up.

A woman who knows her way around cars. Now that's HOT!!!

I don’t have any tech advice or input. Just wanted to offer a pat on the back. If someone asked me what the point of RU-vid was, I would show them this channel. Great work! Keep um coming.

Doris, you are an absolute badass! I love your garage, I wish I had something similar, maybe in the future when I retire from the Navy. Keep it up with the awesome videos. I hope you get all the answers you need.

Great video you are doing your thing girl. Your learning as you go. As we all our it's so great to see everyone come together to help out. Thanks so much for sharing your story

There is no problem with the gap between the 2 con rods. Oil would be slopping up there when the engine is running so no worries. #8 cylinder is pretty scored, probably deeper than a hone can take out, so may have to go first oversized piston for that cylinder(meaning a machine shop has to bore it out. They would know for sure by looking at it. You would need an oversize piston for that cylinder. The valve seat is something a machine shop or engine rebuild shop would know by looking at it as to what needs to be done. Maybe a valve seat insert can be put in? The shop will know. This is not something you can do in your shop. Let them have that valve as well and they will determine whether the valve is OK or it needs replacing too. . As for the bearings, it don't matter as you are replacing them all with new ones. Both crankshaft and cam shaft bearing sets & Piston rings. You are replacing with new ones standard size except for cylinder 8 which got its own special oversize piston and ring set. . Why #8 had an issue? Don't know. Maybe bad install and they cracked a ring? That can happen so easily. . The dark rings in the cylinder bores is not a concern. It may be where the pistons stopped so is basically ring marks. . A machine shop or engine rebuild shop will clean up the block real good. . You might inquire at the machine shop as they may want to reassemble that engine back together(so they will want the pistons & camshafts & heads.) Different shops do different things. Some do barely anything & others do the whole kaboodle.

My kinda girl! Hanging out in the garage and working on cars.Great videos!

The wear on components does not look like a 5k motor, damn.

Doris, great job. Based on some of the damage you might be better off with a short block. However, knowing your desire for some aftermarket pistons/rings I get-it. Im impressed with your "lean operation" and "set-in-place" process. Take your time, I'm following and can't wait to see the outcome.

I'd like to say you're doing a great job. I did comment on pulling the crank pulley with the bolt still in. Looking at the diagram in the manual, it looks like the big thick washer/spacer needed to be removed and the bolt screwed back in. Can't be sure as I can't see the other instructions on the page. The bolt head is small enough to pass through the center hole of the pulley, same as the adapter you used. Live and learn 😊

Dorace you amaze me everytime I watch you! You have no fear tarring into an engine that would make most men cry just thinking about it! You not only taik the talk you also walk the walk! YOU GO GIRL

Best advice would be to take the heads, rotating assembly, and block to your machine shop and let them tell you what can be done, what can be saved, and what needs to be replaced... the block, looks like it can be bored and honed.

No need to worry about the rod caps, and the under sides of the bearings. The bearings look fine, except for the one with the line going through it. But you have to remember that you took the car to the track. I would up grade the oil pump to high flow gears for better oiling.

Gapping the rings is one major task in engine building. Especially if you are going to do forced induction stuff. Most probably on C8 it was done wrong or this cylinder was running lean for a reason. So when installing the new engine I would suggest to flow test also the injectors and in doubt replace them all together. Even if there are fuel filters small debris can break through and gets to the injectors. Such small debris can also clog the injector just that much that it is enough for a lean condition. It doesn't mean that there is detonation occurring, You would see signs of that on the piston and heads but it was maybe enough to heat this cylinder more and together with a to narrow ring gap it was enough that the ring ends touched and expanded further until the ring lands broke.... happens a lot to boosted engines when there was not enough gap.

Use the same jack handle "cheater bar" for turning the motor on the stand.

I’m very proud of you taking on this big task of rebuilding your engine your Awesome 😎 block looks salvageable but head is questionable

Wow, what a well made video. In focus, different camera techniques and actually showing what you're talking about. As far as the presenter goes, a professional. Clearly knows her stuff and ego free, so will only get better. But also, brave enough to have a crack when the outcome is unknown. I wish I had a local mechanic as good as this.

Impressive work! You will certainly want to send the heads to a machine shop and let them check them out or prep them if you will reuse them. The block too if you will reuse it.

Hey Doris, definitely take the block and heads to a good machine shop show them the cylinder 8 piston as well as. They should be able to save it. Definitely look at forged pistons and rods.

And here I was proud that I replaced my injectors on my Volvo 😆 I would be proud to have you as a neighbour 😁

I’ve built about seven engines for my fox body cougar. Make sure you take that block to the machine shop, along with having the heads done and pressure tested. Then recheck bore with micrometer before ordering pistons and rings.

24:44 I would definitely say your block can sleeved as far as the head I would find a shop that repairs heads and see what they recommend. I have often seen expensive heads get weld repaired and I bet from what I see in the video that can be fixed. It would absolutely need a valve job as the valve seat appears damaged and that's why the valves are all black. The valves where unable to seal anymore and the combustion was just blowing past the valves. Also those are impact marks on the head from the metal fragments from the piston. From what little I can see it looks like detonation was occurring in cylinder 8 most likely from heat rather than tune issues.

Just stumbled into this, channel, hey go for it!!!....new sub !!...at least you admit when you made a mistake, ... that's the sign of a true Master !! good content this coming from an ex-dealer, master line Mechanic,...on the crank, yes have it mic-ed ..I'd even have it turned it polished...

When I had a hypereutectic piston go in my 340, I had to get a couple of cylinders sleeved and rebored. You got lucky, you might only need one sleeved. Side note, went with forged after that fiasco.

Would you fix my airmatic suspension on my sl500 when it eventually fails and leaves one of my arches sitting on the tarmac. Thanks.

Very cool series. Connecting rod clearance should be there. Should be a spec for the acceptable range and you need to check it with feeler gauge during reassembly. You also need to check your crankshaft end play as well. A dial test gauge is easiest, but you can do it with a regular dial plunger gauge. I rebuilt my daily driver a while back and have a playlist for it on my main page. It's just Quad 4 LD9, but it's all pretty much the same on the bottom end accept you have two rods per journal on some. in Part 3 I am checking the Crank End play, and Installing Pistons part 2 of 2 I check the connecting rod clearance. I don't rebuild engines any more, but I use to build racing engines when I was young and I learned from a legend (who was also a national top fuel drag champion) here in my home town.

Seems like there's been a lack of oil because all that scouring is way too heavy for an engine of that age. Also, rods shouldn't be moving that much

The scoring to the bearings is due to metal contamination from a failure somewhere

That head is fine. Use a Dremel tool with a sandpaper roll, smooth out the gouge in the quench area and that little bit around exhaust valves. Use a little valve grinding compound a map of all the valves in to the seats before you put the head back together.

Good job so far, I offer some insigts to your questions and some observations, take them for what you will. I write this based on both my experience (going on 15 years in the field) and schooling (Wyotech- Diesel Engineering, Chassis Fabrication and High Performance Engines) Those rod bearings are toast, I have pulled rod bearings out of 13L Detroit diesels with 150,000+ miles that were far smoother and shinier with no grooving. The side play on the con rods seems normal but you will need to get the proper specs from the manual and check it with a feeler gauge. Something has gone horribly wrong with your oiling system. Please stand that crankshaft up vertically on the floor with a safety strap so it cant fall over, NEVER store it laying down, it will warp in no time. The only way to store it horizontally is supported in the block or with a stand that supports each main journal. The black lines in the main bearing channel is from the line honing, it is normal. The black ring is where your piston travel stops, that is the carbon quench line, it is normal in race engines and high temp operations like diesel generators. Your crank needs to be taken to a machine shop and magnafluxed to check for cracks. All of this damage seems to me (calling on past experience) to be a result of an incorrect break in with the rings failing to properly seat which results in a failure of the ring to rotate as it travels up and down hence causing stress points in the ring groves from carbon buildup. whenever you get it put back together I would suggest using 1 qt of universal ATF in the oil for break in, it is a trick I learned from the first generation of CAT ACERT engines, they had a similar problem, it helps ensure that the rings seat. You only need to run it for the first 500 to 1000 miles, or 50 to 75 hours of operation. As far as your head being reusable, again machine shop and magnafluxing. As to if the oil pressure issue was caused by the piston failure or if the piston failure was caused by the oil pressure issue it is difficult to say. Regardless you will need to ensure that anything with an oil passage that you are reusing, and new parts as well, is properly cleaned and inspected for any debris. Hope this helps. I am no expert on Ford by any means, but if you have any questions in regard to engine building feel free to PM me. From a article on engine break in: Consequences The following are consequences of a bad engine break-in:[1] 1. Oil will gather in the cylinder wall, and a vehicle will use much more of it than necessary. 2. If a ring does not set into the grooves of the cylinder wall but creates friction against them each time an engine runs, the cylinder wall will be worn out. 3. Unsuccessful setting of piston rings into a cylinder wall will result in the necessity of new engine parts, or the entire engine depending on how extensive the damage is. 4. Camshaft lobes wear down and are destroyed on flat type lifters in older engine designs.

I can't remember what the story was as to how the engine was hurt, but what this looks like is piston ring butting. Likely the tune was too aggressive and high combustion temps lead to that cylinder 8 piston ring expanding and butting the ring gap, pushing into the piston and causing all sorts of hell as seen there. When you rebuild the engine you could gap the rings a bit more to reduce the risk of that happening in the future. It wouldn't be an issue as far as power goes, maybe a tiny bit more oil consumption, but not bad. Looks like you're on the right track!

I'm not sure how many times you rebuild hey motor but when taking off the rods and bearing caps they have to stay the same rod and oriented in the same exact Direction

Hello Doris, the connecting rod movement is normal. It is that way so when the engine warms up it won't lock up. The head is bad to much damage on cylinder 8. As for the block I would find a great machine shop and they can check it. From the video I would say it will need to be bored out. I would look for a forged set of connecting rod and pistons. Lastly make sure you rebalance the crankshaft and balance the connecting rod and pistons.

Concerning the #8 cylinder, The scarring on the sidewall is from the broken pieces of the piston ring. The same for the scarring in the #8 combustion chamber. More than likely, you'll need to have the #8 cylinder re-sleeved, and bored to spec. Any competent machine shop can do that for you. As for the combustion chamber, I would carefully check the seating surfaces of all four valves. If there are no deep gouges, or cuts in the seating surface of either the head seats or the valves, you can save the head. Scrubbing with kerosene will remove all the carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and the valves, (I recommend a brass -bristle wire brush). Light scratches in the seating surfaces can be lapped out. There is usually a magnet in the oil pan, or near the oil pickup tube, that should have the trapped fragments of the broken piston ring. I would also recommend flushing the oil passages in the block, just in case any of the fragments are in there. In a situation like that, I would have cut open the oil filter to see if any got in there, that would tell me if I had any stray metal flowing through my engine.

Morning Doris, yet another great show, I was just talking to my wife about how good you are her reply was yes she is. Keep up the good work and stay safe God bless 😇

REALLY YOU WORK WONDERFULL YOU READ AND FEEL THE ENGİNES 👏👏👏👏👏

All gaps in the rotating Assembly are fine there is a tolerance it needs to be set to to allow for thermal expansion metal expands as it heats! Beautiful

Hello, a small observation, when you do strength work such as removing the screws of the heads, pistons and bench for your safety it is better to pull the tool than to push it, if it is released or skid your body will hit the block ... .security before everything. nice day.

Gee wiz that’s horrible for 5000 miles scored bearings is a symptom of poor oiling.

The master mechanic at work 😬 great video Doris what an insane job looking forward to the next one keep up the amazing work 👍💕

Hi, for what can be seen at a distance (watching your video), I have the faraway impression that engine block is dead. I mean metallurgically dead, as in all stiffness has gone out of the block, in such a way that the block itself is warping (flexing) when hot, for instance, in relation to the crankshaft. First thing I would do, is checking "the line", i.e. take the block to a decent racing engine shop and have them check if the block is warped or not, meaning the crankshaft line and possibly have them re-bore it if they still trust the integrity of the metal of the whole block. Block will also need to be magnafluxed or similar. If still ok, crank will have to be checked and rectified, just like the line and get new bearings everywhere ... Cooling: look for aviation coolant that is not water-based. Get water pump with larger output, too.

I love your show and I am proud of you for tackling things that I would not do myself , but I sure do learn from you .

You are a great mechanic Doris ⚙️😄, thank you for liking the art i made for you, if you need graphic art tell me i send you. Cheers!

Whenever disassembling and the engine for the first time you should take a number punch and punch the cylinder number into the Rod Signifying the cylinder it came out of

You are doing an excellent teardown and analysis of the engine. Like some others have said, your best bet at this point is most likely a new engine. Once you add the cost of all of the replacement parts needed, machine work, gaskets, etc, you will probably be close to, or more than, a new engine. You might want to look into a performance long block from a reputable shop. Many come with a warranty and will allow you to run performance parts and tune. It would be money well spent.

Hi, first of all the side to side movement on the rod bearings is good, you don’t want them binding.The rod bearings look like debris in the oil got to them , the large line on number 6 I believe a piece of something in the oil wiped the overlay off! I’ve been building Diesel engines for 30 years and auto engines are similar. Your videos are awsome and really enjoy your passion.