My Dream Shop Ep-36: Next Level Insulation Detail for Post Frame 

Yep,you're right ,Greg shouldn't leave you unsupervised.

You can use rockwool without any waste. Just put your offcut against the fence of the saw when starting with the next board.

Kyle, great job as always. Rockwool insulation is the only insulation that should be allowed in homes. A serrated kitchen kniife works very well, especially for small trimming as you install. It is the easiest insulation to install, and actually fills in with no voids. It is expensive, but when you close up a wall, you feel like you have actually done a great job of cutting down on the infiltration of heat or cold. It won't burn, if it gets wet it will dry out and not mold. I would not be surprised if your floor heat is all you need to keep it warm. Really enjoy the videos, and closing in on 2 million subscribers is a great accomplishment. At 69 years old, my only advice is to make sure you are saving enough money for old age. Now I have to watch your work as my ability for that kind of work has dwindled. Great job Kyle.

Your attention to detail is why I watch this channel. That combined with always having the right tool for the job is very satisfying.

I put Foamular foam board in between my girts, but I purposely made the gap 16" so I could efficiently use a 4x8 sheet. Also the foam board is pre-scored and easily breaks apart into 3- 16"x96" strips. It makes for a tight building. I love watching your videos!

As someone with a terminal lung disease, likely from woodworking, I encourage you to wear a respirator whenever cutting that rock wool. The dust can ruin your lungs 20 years from now. “Dust control is not enough”.

You can already hear the space tightened up with the lack of echo. Great video!

Rock wool has some silica in it so breathing should be protected when used in a closed space. The preferred method would be to use a supplied air respirator. Rock wool can cause damage to the lungs.

Building is a series of small decisions, which determine where you finish in the best performance/price/labor results. Exterior insulation, outboard the sheeting is the best R-value per input. Coated taped sheeting is better than house wrap. Zip R would completly thermally break the sheating. Details matter, typed from my vinyl sided 2x4 constructed production built home lol

We loved the voice effects - ran it back and watched it multiple times - Laughed really hard!!

I can’t believe this is episode 36! I’ve watched them all 😮, time flies when you’re having fun!

Maybe putting about a 5-degree tilt on your blade? That would a narrower width either at the top or bottom which would allow that narrow edge to deform just a little to fit, but still have enough resistance to keep it secure.

You can do what ever you like, Kyle. It is your shop at the end. We just enjoy watching you.

Very nice. And the best insulation choice. And best to wear a dust mask.

Keep working and the finished product is going to be marvelous. Get Greg back to work ASAP!

Kyle, your shop is coming along nicely and when Greg get well the two of you will get a ton done. Your son did a really good job with you even when he didn't know much. Wishing Greg a speedy recovery from whatever he has and hope he won't try a do to much until he is fully recovered. Great video and see you on the next one.

Man Kyle, you got all the goodies. Nothing beats being equipped with the right tools. Level the content as always 💯

Impressive how consistent the spacing between the 2 X 6's are

Insulating behind posts makes total sense. I know it will be covered up but that wall looks great with that comfortboard filling in the panels.

This detail is very interesting to me, I seen your short videos leading up to the insulating videos and have been looking forward to these details. Very awesome, I like it so far.

No cutting corners on this build awesome KYLE.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

This is a great idea using a great product. Far better than using spray foam or not doing it at all. Your shop is going to be comfortable all year round. Cannot wait to see the end product. Thanks Kyle and Greg. 👍👍

Really enjoying this series because this is the pinnacle of your building ability👌also it is a good visual to show potential future customers of what they can have if they pay the price tag

The little bits of editing here and there are showing improvements, l love to see the growth!

Great job Kyle. Well done. 😁👍🏼

100%, it's worth it that extra insulation never hurts anything I would do the same thing! Keep up the good work brother!!!

Very nice! More insulation will always pay off (at least up to a certain point). Over here i north Europe we usually put three layers of insulation in our wood houses (stud frame): first 6-7 inches between each stud, then a second 2-inch layer with offset joints to the first layer, to prevent thermal transfer. Then you put up horisontal framing on top of the studs and insulation, and install another 2 inches of insulation, again with offset joints. Then it's the diffusion plastic, board, and drywall. The outside of the walls also have housewrap, board and then exterior siding, with an air gap to ventilate the exterior and keep it dry. I realise that this project is not a residential bulding, but a well-insulated building is nevertheless a worthwhile goal.

Really enjoying these videos on your dream shop.

Wow you have a nice building and done professionally. Great job.

That will make a huge difference, great idea.

Kyle, you were cutting from the right side, you kept walking around your stand every time you pulled a new sheet, you should have turn your saw around to the other side of your cut table setup. 180 degrees essentially.

it was fun watching you go through the learning process . i did the same process ten years ago on my pole structure cabinet shop . the difference was that i didn't have the rock wool sheets . i had truck loads of second hand inch and a half foam that i got on auctions and scrap sales . after filling between the pearlings i overlaid vertical sheets of formular 150 2 inches thick and screwed on ripped down 2 by 4's to tthree and a quarter two ft on center . i had lots of time and all the material was from auctions or second hand . not practical for a paying job but on my own shop i saved thousands . sheeted the walls with 5/8's osb and ran my electric in the left over space . the wiersbo heat in the floor never cost more than fifty bucks a month to heat in mn . can't wait to see your next step .

I’m planning on a 500-600 ft cottage, post frame, rockwool, very exciting. DIY friendly. Rockwool has great fire resistance and love the Vapor permeability

I like, all your videos. I learn a lot watching, love to build stuff 😊.

Did my garage walls somewhat like that , put a piece about 12 inches wide behind each column then used full pieces over top all the purlins. Your shop is looking good, keep up the good work.

"It was a little loose, but its still snug enough for me"....takes me back to college!

I'm sure you know this, but play with that Dewalt fence. It has a folding feature for those wider off-table cuts to hold the material up. Keep up the great work, and enjoyable, info filled videos!

Thanks for using gloves. I use them all the time, been about 11 years now. That grip and hand protection is great. You do always, ALWAYS have to be aware of where your hands are though. Good job Kyle!

Love this detail! I have that exact insulation detail spec'd in my plans with the interior gerts offset from the exterior gerts to maximize the average insulation depth.

Yes, I totally think doing this Comfortboard 80 is a great idea!

The nice thing about using the Comfortboad first is that you will be able have the thermal break and still be able to run electrical.

we did our heated shop similar to this, only we stuffed 4" batt insulation into the purlin cavities then the 6" over top of that, stuffing the 4" in first made it really puff up afterward and fill the whole wall nicely.

Looks real clean and straight, can I suggest that all the items on the main floor be put up on the Mezzanine, as its a big unused space at the moment and you need all the floor around the walls clear. Good Job Kyle.

Have you considered putting the comfort board on the outside of the wall and then steel siding over the comfort board. No thermal bridging except for the screws and much more fire resistant (to say forest fires), less cutting, and faster install. Just a few screws to hold until you put the steel panels over. better overall r-value. You probably want to put your tyvek over the comfort board before installing the steel siding to reduce air movement in the board and keep moisture on the comfort board to a minimum.

When you are cutting the insulation, you should wear a full face respirator to protect your eyes and lungs. Some people, who use rigid insulation, cut the pieces 1/2 narrow, then they fill the gap with spray foam insulation from cans.

Hey Kyle you should check out a new tool called Tiger-Stop. It's a cutting station stop that is computer controlled and pairs with chop saw or miter saw. You can just type in the length of cut and it will move the stop to make it exact and you can save measurements and go back and forth with one tap.

Excellent presentation. 👍🏾

belt and suspenders insulation job .. awesome

To take it up a notch, create a 2” by 3/4 deep dado on the ends of each piece and overlap ends instead of butting the joints

i used foam board ..i like the rockwell insulation ur using....cyclone is awesome...just keep going...looks great

Great job, Sir!

We used to wrap the rockwool in a light plastic sheet cut about 150% bigger than the board. It slips in real easy after that.

Looking very neat 👍

I’m in the uk and I do this kind of thing with my festool rail saw and the added bonus you can work off of the stack itself and almost 99% dust free

I think it will be good. Great job.

Some great ideas here. Thanks

Man that's NICE Kyle!!! I so wanted to do the same thing with 1.5" XPS foam on my Morton Building, but the foam added a ton of cost to the build, it was just not in the cards for me. You sure will have a nice, tight,warm/cool building when you are done!! Very impressive!!

My RU-vid degree on insulation (semi-joking, but I have been obsessed for years on insulation and air sealing videos and podcasts) says those super slim air gaps don't matter, because they are far too small to allow any meaningful air currents, and air currents are the real insulating problem when it comes to air gaps. I love the videos and that you care so much to pay attention to air sealing (to an amazing and yet still appropriate degree) as well as the thermal bridges.

This is going to be s nice and warm shop. I think the effort and money spent into this detail is going to pay off really well. Insulation protects from both cold in the winter and heat in the summer, on top of that, sound year around. Perhaps you wont hear the train from inside anymore.

Rockwool is better.. better against fire, better R value and better when then building need to go. Its just nice to see a US-builder using good materials and using lots of insulation(it will pay for it self in 3-4 years! Love it!

After watching this step, I think I'll build my daughter's small house just like this. I really like this method of construction.

Sure going to be a nice workshop.

We use the same thing in the UK but it's called RW45 by rockwool when cutting to Lenth and around things it's best to use a bread knife. Amazing job I would love this as a work shop it's amazing too jib guys

Just finished insulating a post frame using r15 rock wool doubled up. Offset outside girts from the inside ones. This allowed the batt to weave between inside and outside. Accomplished same thing as using batt and board. Gave a r30 wall rating. Also, it was cheaper to use the r15 than r23 batt where I am at.

Kyle love what you're doing. My ocd I would still use a 1/4 inch fan fold insulation outside before I sided. Just me.

I'm anxious to hear the return on investment data, nice and sweet regardless.

Is that a badger belt I see!??… you’re a hell of a builder man, I’ve definitely gained a lot of knowledge from your build series.

Looks great!

"This customer isn't that anal anyway." Have you not met him yet?😂 Love that you show your "work thru it" thoughts. Been there a lot. Thx Kyle.

Amazing job

As I watched the video I developed a thought to help minimizing thermal bridging. If you offset the inside girts, you can add another layer of comfort board between them and lower thermal bridging. The question is, is the juice worth the squeeze. It would definitely increase the R value of the envelope 2 layers of R6 + 1 layer of R23 = R35 in the walls. Love the content.

It is looking very good congratulation I'd like the way that you work

It's ALWAYS a plus when you can still count to ten after using a table saw!

Used these BOSCH T313AW3 on 1 1/2” polystyrene doing the same job as your comfort board. Fast cuts with no debris left over.

I can see me using that rockwool board over styrafoam in the future ive used rockwool bats for all my life lol never disappoints

very nice and the r23 and the rockwool will be great r value

Yep. That’s a whole lot grippy surface contact to overcome. I know it’s a few weeks late, but perhaps flipping the table saw blade might cut that board and reduce dust as well. Think of it as a compression cut such as a knife does.

What a teacher you could be.!!!!!

Kyle, probably too late now, but think about investing in the Festool ISC 240 saw for insulation. You can cut a little over 9" thick on the rail. Rigid board uses the track on top, and the rolls can be cut using the track and fence setup underneath. You can hook it up to a vacuum for the dust too. Keep up the good work, Al

That's going to be really nice. You can take those 8ft cut offs, cut them to your 18 1/2" lengths and place them vertically in the smaller spots like next to doors/ windows.

Careful with that heater on the concrete, I have that exact one and really discolored the basement floor in the house we were working on. We started just putting a scrap piece of OSB under it just to be sure

Very interesting. I agree with getting the insulation behind the post, especially in the corners, but with insulation you reach a point of diminishing returns. Just my opinion.

Idea to reduce cost: only cover behind the post w the comfortboard. I imagine you'd need a lot less material and see similar results.

Good stuff!

So I just priced the product being used, $62 a sheet for R-6. Owens Corning 1.5 inch foam board is $46 and R-7.5, likely much easier to slide behind posts. Just an FYI.

I’m totally surprised at just how much dust it produced but it looks AMAZING!!!

hi, you should place the 11 plus inch "waste place" behind you post on the vertical (more cutting) and then place your 18inch at 96inch in between. that eliminates you sliding/pushing a 96inch piece behind the post..... I hate waste too............. love the build .....d

absolutely worth it

First off, great content. Really enjoying this series. 2nd, I can't imagine you're not kicking yourself for not just using sheathing with 1/2 of foam insulation on the back side of it. Way easier, way quicker, better insulation due to less due to full coverage and no thermal breaks, and cheaper(???probably???).

I had to put styrofoam in my girt bays because my idiot contractor did not put the house wrap on before the steel that we talked about many times so I could do spray foam without it gluing outer skin in place. I also made insulation dams out of foam so the end of the truss could be sprayed getting more R value in the tight corner space before the fiberglass was blown in. I wish I had used trusses with a raised end like yours allowing for better insulation to the end. Maybe on the next one! 🤷‍♂️

Damn, lotta work but it looks so clean on the wall

Such a great detail getting the insulation behind the posts in the corner.

Here in Iceland we use almost entirely rockwool, in stores the plates of wool are always 56x120cm, but if we need we special order straight from the factory any size we want. Might be something good to look into

I have r25 in 1 part of my ceiling, I have r 45 in another part. I have 2" of foam under floor with r 45 and they both drop off at a close rate. Biggest thing I did is really paying attention to air intrusion.

I like what your doing! Your new shop will eventually be super-insulated and your gas/heat bill will be nice and affordable..... My buddy just built a brand new 3,200 sq ft cottage on a lake and he spray foamed everything and super-insulated all the walls and ceilings and his gas bill is like $100 monthly....and in the summer his AC unit turns on like once or twice an hour....saves him lots of money in gas and electric every month because of super insulation.

We cut foam, put behind the posts and then spray foam. Its the best methodfor thermal breaks

Dude I thought I was OCD But you got me beat, I’m not shitting on you It’s another way Of saying You do amazing work. Thank you

Zip System Insulated R-Sheathing on the exterior would get rid of the cold bridging completely at the girt/post connection and give you your air barrier.

If the offcuts are big enough glue the together ten cut to size if you have the time. Use glue in a spray can, drys quick.👍

I'm originally from Chicago, Illinois. I miss the initial snowfall.