Cool video. Personal comments. Great! I remember in 1981 I purchased the National Semiconductor Audio Book. 1980 technology. "Here at National Semiconductor, we are working on the perfect amplifier I.C. It will perform flawlessly, in the heat and the cold, forever. Until then..." Those were the days.
Hi John, greetings from sunny South Africa. To add to your collection of audio ICs, here is a superb high performance audio chip. E-TDA7375V. It has a stereo & quad output, very low THD at ± 35 watts. Very little external components needed, I added a 3 band tone controller & bluetooth module to mine. Workbench assembly worked for 9 hours with 4 x 4 ohm 35 watt speakers quad assembly non-stop, heat dissipation at 19 - 23 degrees measured at 2 hour intervals (no cooling fan) required. Look up the data sheet for this IC, all the guidelines you need are there for this great amplifier. As an Audiophile I recommend the E-TDA7375V for any quality audio projects. A reply would be greatly appreciated.... Cheers from sunny S.A
John, loving your videos. Have been learning so much. You're awesome! One thing I'd love you to make a video over is more about the chip amps, but the STK series from SANYO. The stereo as well as 2.1 types. Would be REALLY amazing to see how they work exactly and doing some tests. Would you please?? :D
A large theme is the TO-220 case style. It started with the ubiquitous TIP31, TIP32 NPN, PNP bipolar transistors, as well as power FET devices. Interesting to see what ST microelectronics is doing; I don't think revision of internal design is a big issue, as there is a lot of 'equivalence' to reportedly 'obsolete' chips...
A few weeks ago I've found the TDA7264, which is a single ended stereo amplifier IC for symmetric powe supply. It can deliver up to 25 Wrms power for each channel at 8 Ohm speakers. Due to its 8 pin Multiwatt footprint it is easy to arrange the peripheral devices close to the IC. It requires only 2 Boucherot filters, 2 input capacitors and 2 power supply decoupling capacitors. I have found out, that it is recommented to increase the power suppy decoupling capacitors at least to 1 to 2.2 µF. And they have to be applied very close to the power pins and ground of the IC (5 to 10 mm, the best is the direct connection between the pins at the conductor side of the PCB). Furthermore it is good to have a low pass filter (1 kOhm, 1 nF) very close to each amplifier input behind the input capacitor. This IC is not really cheap (USD 8.66) but it is stereo and very easy to breadboard for test designs. I can send you my test circuit and its breadboard design, if you are interested in it (unfortunately RU-vid allows no hyperlinks).
@@JohnAudioTech I have simply set the mute / stby-pin to ground. It is not necessary to use the complicated circuit from the data sheet either. In order to avoid the plop-sound in the speakers you can simply use a capacitor to Vcc from the pin and a resistor from it to ground.
@@gkdresden The ICs I have are only in play mode when the mute pin is set between 6 and 10 volts below the positive rail voltage. I used a 7.5v zener, resistor and capacitor for the mute pin, covered in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D5N82Qr6k78.html I remember trying to ground the mute pin early on and the IC would not work properly. I suppose I was using a supply voltage greater than +/- 10 volts which would put the mute pin at greater than Vs-10v when grounded.
What an effort. I use 12 V and grounding the pin works fine. Table 5 in the data sheet also show the following thresholds: standby: V > Vs-2.5V mute: Vs-6V > V > Vs-2.5V play: V < Vs-6V So a V = Vs-12V is clearly in the play case.
UPDATE: Sept 2013. ST Microelectronics has announced the obsolescence of about half of their analog audio power ICs which include the TDA2003, TDA2030A, TDA2040, TDA2050 and TEA2025 (among others).
It seems the industry is going for the class D chips. However, the TEA2025B was a nice and cheap 1-watter for a little computer speaker, and for me, it sounded much better than TDA2822M or the LM386. I like the 7294 too, not a high-end, but good performer. About the older types...STK-based amps are often considered worse than discrete transistor amps, however I heard some which sounded OK for me - an Akai AM-A3 with STK4893 (STK4773 to 4913, 10 to 50 Watts/ch) and an old german set with STK-00xx Darlington Power Pack. Their durability is dependant on surrounding circuitry. And one time I heard an old 50W monoblock movie amp with a Sanken SI-1050G, it was driving an efficient 15'' Fender cabinet and sounded very good.
+JohnAudioTech --They ought to change their company name to "ST Microbsolescene." I've used several of their op amps over the years in products and then found they've been discontinued after a relatively short time. I was sad to see the DIP versions of the TS912 disappear.
Great Video and use of best practice scenarios! I will be purchasing the TDA2050 to experiment and see if I can repair my old Ibanez Guitar Amp. I didn't want to throw away my Ibanez Guitar Amp. The Amp is buzzing and I could see that the TDA20xx circuit pooped out due to overheating because my external speaker wires that I added for connecting an additional subwoofer, were making contact with each other by accident and causing the burn out of the Linear IC TDA20xx....lesson learned. Wish me Luck!
Sir, my favorite is...1.Lm3886 2, ta8277(ta series quad amps..8271..8272....), 3., tda7388., 4.,tda2050., 5., tea2025., My old favorites are mb3730, upc1185, upc1230, tda2020., tda2002., all the best and nice video, love from india
I remember building my first stereo amp with TDA2030's back in the late 80's. These things have zero short circuit protection and would blow up quite spectacularly with lots of smoke and getting so hot the IC's package would melt leaving a glowing lump on the PCB until the power was turned off.
@@Theineluctable_SOME_CANT yup, i hot swapped them quite often and sometimes short them and still alive after 30+ years or something... okay gotta admit i poppen one because of overvoltage but hey... using a LM4780 right now and man is it powerful
I have a pair of very old Tannoy 15" 15 Ohm monitors I think they are 96dB / W. Before I try and re cap my old amp I need a backup. I shall peruse your channel and hopefully get a few ideas. Thanks for a very useful video.
Nice video, nice channel. Did you ever try TPA3116 or any TPA31XX, they are class D and the datasheet for the TPA3116 says it is capable of 50W with less than 1% THD. I am planning in build an amp and not sure what IC to use. An smaller heatsink would be nice...
Hi are you familiar with the mind blows speakers? They were out in the 70"s built by Jensen.. They were powerful and clean, amp was built right on the speakers
I expected a bit more than what one can surmise by looking at an amplifier parts catalog. Be nice to let us listen to some, or show us some waveforms, and a little bit of detail on a build?
@JohnAudioTech There is a chip UTC2030(YouWang) which I guess is a Chinese copy of TDA2030. Have you ever seen them or tried and what is your opinion about them?
buddy im wondering if you could help ..... do you know a way i could build a mic preamp that runs 48v ( phantom power ) for a condensor mic ? with the best warm sound possible ?
Can you use the the TDA 1558 cube chip, to replace a dead tube amplifier.. powering a 5 watt 8ohm speaker for a mono signal.. nice and loud.. without minimal distortion...
Hi John,neat video.s you have done,,I have a problem with my 20watt guitar amp,that has a tda2050 chip that i have removed for replacement..can you tell me a way that i can test this on a bread board and do you have a drawing of how to set up the bread board. regards Andrew
I'm trying to.put together a talkbox circuit that will function inline as a guitar or keyboard or any instrument for that matter, but specifically for guitar. I need to have a small amp, and also send the signal from an electret mic back out to a mono, and additional (for future send/return) 1/4" jacks. would 5 watts or 3 watts as far as sound be too much? which chip would anyone recommend? thanks.
Hey man what was that little cube amp in the beginning of the video based on? That thing is so cool :D PS: you should try the PAM8403 wbay kit. I have the on with the pot and supply cap. Awesome little amp, sound great, very efficient, super cheap.
NoBudgetTech The little cube amp is based two TDA7267 ICs. For a multitude of reasons, I'm not a huge fan of Class D amps although they have their place.
JohnAudioTech Very nice job with that little amp! I'm also not a huge fan of class D amps, mainly due to their sound, but I'd say most of the small low power class D chipamps seem to sound better than AB chipamps. That is, at least, the case with, say, below 5W rated chips. I've never been satisfied with low power DIP package chips, tho. Everyone loves the LM386 for portable boomboxes and practice amps but I think it sounds absolutely awful. This little PAM8403 sounds quite good, tho.
NoBudgetTech Yes, there seems to be no correlation between how good an amplifier sounds to how well it measures. For example, a lot of people like single ended tube amps, yet they often measure poorly. Perhaps people find some low order harmonics in the sound to be pleasing. People also tend to disagree on what sounds great and what sounds poor. A lot has been written on how we receive sound and the biases involved. I tend to avoid these arguments and go by what can be measured using test equipment. I haven't found class D to sound any better or worse. I don't care for the cheaply made Chinese kits that use low quality components, skip some parts/design such as proper heat sinking and much of the ICs are difficult to handle sub mini surface mount components.
Hi John,,, I'm working with a TDA 2030 and I can't get the chip to operate with a volume control on the input,, I'm wondering if you need a Pre amp to have the chip operate?
Hey ive got an 80s Sparkomatic lc100 car amp that has 4 5 prong chips lile this and one is bad but nothing comes up when i search the numbers on it. It says AL80317 88018N SINGAPORE any ideas for a replacement?
It could be a custom part number for the TDA2003 or LM383 power amp IC. They often used two per channel bridged for more power. The only way to know for sure is to reverse engineer the board layout.
Hey can you please let me know how to check TDA 7265 with multimeter? I recon it has gone bad in my Logitech z623 2.1 since the left speaker is distorting even at low volumes. I've checked the speaker and it is fine! So I'm guessing it's 7265 gone bad.
Nice IC Amplifiers: TDA 7267 low power 12V 8ohm TDA2003 low impedance Bridgeable 5W clean Single ended 8W low impedance I wont talk about Car stereo amps They are probably class-D TDA 2050 5A peak current Get hot LM 3886 Class B.... it's basically a walkie talkie in audio quality but loud! Please read the datasheets before use Snickers is a cool cat! Great video!
Hi, Do you happen to have an example video on how you built your TDA2050A amp anywhere? I feel like I could build the amp but I don't know where to start in order to connect a woofer. Thank you! B.
I would urge you the try the LM1875 instead. For many reasons I now believe it is the better of the two ICs plus the TDA2050 was discontinued 3-1/2 years ago with a lot of fakes being sold now. I have several videos of the LM1875 plus an ebay kit I made a video on a few weeks ago that has a very well designed board.
Honestly seems pretty unlikely they are pretty big brands when it comes to components and people buy reels of thousands of components at a time from them so given the scale and all I imagine they do quality assurance to make sure they aren't selling bogus products (some might slip through the cracks but it's pretty unlikely). Have ordered a few components from digikey and never had an issue.
With the IC out of circuit, you can check the output pin to the supply pins with the multi meter's diode function. You normally get a diode drop voltage in one direction and a few drops in the opposite direction. A very low measurement of 0 to .2 volts, for example, could indicate a bad IC.
+Thomas Shih What I do is feel the IC package and see how hard it is. If it feels like a type of soft plastic, then most likely it's fake. I've identified a couple of Chinese remakes of Arduinos doing this.
Hi there.dont say tube stuff are to expensive They are not expensive if you understand how to fixing output transformer and power transformer to then it just a question about knowledge how to connect together. And sadly that is a forgotten knowledge.
+Hendry parman I was assuming buying new which is not cheap. Used parts can be more affordable. I once bought a 35 watt tube amp for peanuts and got it working again by replacing bad capacitors and one new tube.
Something like an LM1875 would give good power for a practice amp. If you plan to play gigs, you need 100 watts on up depending on the venue size and type of music you play.
