Is there anything else you can put on top of the DMX 1 step to improve the "warmness" of the floor? I was going to put OSB on top of it but since my basement ceiling is very low, adding my an OSB would make someone's head closer to the ceiling. If you're also installing wall frame, do you suggest installing the wall frame on top of the DMX one step or frame it first then lay down the dmx one step. Thanks!
About to use the same product on a basement floor for floating floors. Last contractor used nothing as a membrane, floor naturally warped due to humidity. Hope this does the trick.
@@JonathanSiegalUse more tape then what is provided, the tape that comes with the product is insufficient. you're also supposed to use a lot of the double sided tape to stick to the cement subfloor, which I'd suggest priming to give it grip, too much garbage when you try sticking anything to it bare. As for the floating floor, It's a floating floor, so the boards merely lie on the membrane. in anyway you build it, you risk having some movement. I guess it depends on the material you use. Some boards don't hold very well, but they do come as a puzzle piece. if the pieces don't fit, you gotta try another one. The extremities are flimsy and prone to breaking, one has to be pay attention during installation. You're supposed to leave a bit of extra between the floor and the walls to compensate for temperature variations to prevent the boards from cracking when contracting/expanding, so there will always be somewhere for the boards to go unfortunately. It's a lot of work to make sure everything is in, especially with todays unrealistic budgetary constraints and government overreach. This why I changed career paths, there's no money in being a donkey. If your membrane is too foamy, as in absorbent to weight and moves the floor downwards, that could potentially lead to boards detaching, once that happens they might start to move around. Your floor sounds like a type I saw before, slides on it's own rails without being attached on all 4 sides. You might have gotten a bad batch of boards (design flaw).
What if water gets on top of the underlay and sits between the vinyl and the underlay? Are there holes in the dimples so it could drain? Or at this point, is the water trapped?
Mines obviously not included in that. Had a pipe burst in the room the drain was in by the time I got home and turned the water off there was 4” of water in one end of the basement. Needed at least another inch of water before it would have made it to the drain that’s 3 feet away from the burst pipe. 🤦♂️
Very well explained. Great informational teaching demeanor and great video! Try making a “script” for your videos so you can properly organize your thoughts and topics you want to talk about. I’ve only just learned this myself. It’s HUGE! Anyways, good luck & I hope you stay with it my friend. Take care.
Liked the video. explained very well. You actually helped me decide between DMX and Delta membrane .For sound quality, you had to add a fabric material under the Delta product. . Deal breaker. thank you.
Absolutely! All the joints are starting to fail after only several weeks of installation. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jkRcl89xb7E.htmlsi=QCEQNZwAEctOYAnw
Great video, has anyone tried sealing the concrete floors prior to adding this? I just found out I have a high water table basically sitting under my foundation. Curious if it would be a good combo to add more waterproofing/humidity build up protection
Great video! Looking to buy this myself (or one from the line) for my LVT. Basement concrete floor. Moisture and warmth considered: Should I put down one of those 'cloth like' vapor barriers, then this, THEN the LVT? or is this truly 'all in one' / 'one step'
Well you can’t just hope you need to be prepared. Also you said your from Canada. Dry barrier is bigger there than the US, why don’t you use dry barrier. Just curious.
Random Repair ya I am trying to do the best for long term but am on a budget so doing both will inflate the budget. As well now I was thinking of putting the underlayment that is required to be used with laminate flooring. So this product and that in theory should be all I need also right?
Hello. Nice video! I need to level my basement. I want to install the dmx and poured the self leveling concrete on top to maintain under the dmx the sloop of the basement to a water retention pond that we have. We re puting tiles on top because is a bathroom. What could it be your advise? We really want to maintain the sloop under in the cause of eventually foundation leak
Ive CM I think you’d hafta use a subfloor incorporated into your floor and allow the sloop to remain underneath. Self leveling concrete, vapor barrier, then subfloor, then the flooring of your choice. That’s merely a suggestion though. Good luck to you in any case.
I have done everything DMX told me to do, and still have terrible humidity problems under this floor. It should be considered insulation ONLY. If you even suspect you might maybe possibly have the tiniest bit of water getting in, this is not for you. I had a professional basement water proofing company come look, and he told me he cannot think of a single instance someone should use this product. Tile in a basement is the only way to go.
@@randomrepair1680 I didn't either for several months. It depends how fast moisture is able to get under it. I passed the moisture test. You tape clear plastic down. I did it for a few weeks, and no visible moisture. This was after having the floor up twice because the smell from underneath. This time I put several layers of water barrier. I didn't get back to Israel the floor for a couple months, at which time I finally saw a tiny bit of moisture. It has no where to go. Eventually, it will build up and smell. If you have 0.0 water getting in, you'll be fine. My house was made in 1951, and cannot meet that requirement.
@@randomrepair1680 I wish you the best. I recommend anyone using this put a, or several, humidity probes under it. That way you will know you have a problem before things get funky.
