My first 200 rolls of Fomapan 

Thumbs up for supporting one of the few European film producers!

I'm still amazed by the fact that you shoot 2-3 rolls per day on average, that's crazy!

I love this video. Too often RU-vid is full of videos "my first roll of" and it annoys me. People shoot either one roll or three and develop them all at once. Then I laugh when I think about my reaction to seeing the title of this video. Please keep these coming. I love this format and as a guy who develops my own film no one scratches my brain or answers question like you video does ❤️

10:40 mark, you nailed it right on the head with the lens pairing options. When I first used this film (Fomapan 400), I used a newer 55mm Micro-Nikkor f2.8 ai-s lens and because it was so clinically sharp so high detailed, I was a bit overwhelmed by the image. Later on, I gave this film another chance with my Leica M3 and my Nikon S3. For my Leica I used a Canon made 50mm Serenar f1.9 from around 1949 or so, and I used a 35mm W-Nikkor f3.5, a lens from the mid 1950s, and because the film had so much contrast to begin with, the softer lenses rendered it in such a way that I was immediately blown away by it. I remember shooting a portrait with it in the subways with very minimal light at wide open, shooting at around 1/25 and the results that came back were both sharp but soft in the best way possible. This film (along with Fomapan 100) with my vintage lenses is my go to black and white set up nowadays depending on the light of course, and I haven't touched Kodak or Fuji black and white stocks in a long while. The Kentmere comparison might be very interesting, as I find the Kentmere to be a total opposite beast in a nice way, lower contrast, lower sharpness maybe, but very easy to use in any situation, especially in comparison to Fomapan 400 which can be peculiar with it's lighting choices and subjects. I think if I were to compare, Fomapan has this Eastern European, 1950s even Soviet cinema kind of feel to it (plus, love the Japanese cinema comparison, cause I use it here in Tokyo ahaha). Whereas Kentmere is very much like a 1960s English film like Saturday Night and Sunday Morning. Both lovely in its own way but with very different strengths.

Jeremy, I was just just wondering about my friend's suggestion to try Fomapan bulk roll and wanted to know really more and Lo your site stumbled on me just as i opened and started exploring. This is Godsend. What an effort and the result is a passionate study of the fomapan. Some of your photographs stop time ; Wonderful. Subscribed and Thank you Very much.

Cheers from the country where Fomapan is produced! I love all the ISO films produced by Foma, but 200 is maybe my favorite. When I shoot Fomapan 400, I practice semi-stand development in Fomadon R09 (it's a Rodinal from Foma) to get the same level of detail the you show on your scans in this video. Really a lot of information in highlights and shadows. Great video!

I tried last week developing Foma 400 in Adox XT-3 and it was amazing. Will try also 510 Pyro soon.

Wow. I haven't even imagined someone uses this Foma 400 for something other than camera testing after it's serviced. Yes I experience lines nad dots on Fomapan daily basis. But it's easy to tell it's a film not a camera fault, so for my repair purposes it's OK.

Such an objective and informative video that still manages to inspire. Keep ‘em coming!!

exceptionally quality content. subscribed

First video of yours that I stumbled upon. Subscribed to see more. Great content dude. I love the in depth, personal take on the experience of 1000 feet later.

Great video. Your words are loaded with info unlike so many others.

great video! really appreciate your detailed analysis and comparison

I really admire your dedication and depth you put into not just this video but film in general

extremly good and interesting video again! thank you for all the valuable information! also i had no idea that the agitation of the film during develoment has such a big impact. and ofc awesome shots as always ;)

Thanks Jeremy for your time and such detailed walk through of your process In a few years time I’m looking forward to your complete shooting, development and scanning guide of all the black and white film stocks 😂

This video came right when I needed it. I have been considering bulk rolling fomapan myself now for some time to save money and be able to actually shoot consistently. Thank you for this, super super helpful.

This was a super in depth video! Great work! I've still never shot fomapan and I would love to try it. I mostly shoot color negative, but I feel a strong B&W phase coming on for me and my work!

Jeremy! this video is so so wonderful and informative. you're becoming a big inspiration for me! I would love a video about the rotary processor and maybe a 'how to' video. maybe even a 'how to' on bulk rolling? thanks for this one!

Fantastic vid. Highly informative. Thanks for sharing

Many thanks Jeremy, greatly appreciated. Best regards Neil.

They use 2 or even 3 emulsion layers in Tri-X and HP5. Here's how it works: Top (outer) layer, high speed, mid layer - medium and bottom layer (coated on film base)- low speed. Each layer on its own would only produce a low maximum black or density. Together, the high speed layer gives you shadow detail, while the slow speed layer highlight detail. I suspect Fomapan is not multi layered, so gives somewhat different tonal rendition. Horses-4-courses. I used to like the Agfa and Ilford b&w films you processed in colour neg chemicals, which had incredible subject brightness range and produced velvety b&w prints on an enlarger. I also loved Kodak Technical Pan 35mm film. Ahhhh...happy days.

Awesome video man, I almost exclusively shoot HP5 and Delta 3200, so seeing such an in-depth review. The grain characteristics are definitely the look I enjoy from Delta 3200, so I may consider shooting a few rolls before getting bulk rolls.

Mind blowing! I can't believe how many rolls you are shooting in a month ,and the amount of info in this video. Here I am shooting one roll in 3 months....

That was awesome. Thank you.

Great vid- really appreciate your approach for getting to know a film stock.

I would love to see more videos about film processing ❤

I recently bulk rolled my first 100’ of Fomapan 400 (but, I’ve shot many non-bulk rolls over the years). I really like the film. It’s weak anti-halation later and extended red sensitivity give it such a unique look. That being said, I have the exact same line going through all of my negatives that your video showed. It’s very frustrating. I’d rather spend more for 100’ of Eastman-5222 and not have to deal with manufacturing defects.

I’ve been playing around with a smoque 1 and 2 filter to control contrast lately and I really love it- it def gives more of a vintage feel.

Great video, thank you

Great video, thanks for making!! Been thinking of bulkload myself and currently in doubt between 200 and iso400

I use foma 100 pushed 400, and I love it ! :D

Hi jeremy thanks for this particular fomapan 400 video, i have been shooting with fomapan 100 for the last couple of years, because the cost is very tempting, and i think im getting used to it but from this video i learnt i should push it a little more and i agree being the highlights are less capable of retaining details since my go to 400 is still HP5+ and yeah i do both on bulks too.. i pair fomapan with only the 28 summaron, 50 noctilux 1.2 and a steel rim.. we probably have the same preference 🍻

Love to see a comparison between Foma & Kent

I recently discovered your channel. I'm addicted to it! I was wondering if you could let us know which scanner you are currently using? Thanks so much! Also because of you, now I am looking for a pre-asph lux! Please keep doing these videos!

To me Fomapan gives you the nostalgic feeling. It is almost like you go back to the 1960s especially when developed in old school developers like Rodinal or HC110. Granted, it then tends to get very grainy but that is part of the charm, if you will. However, I don't like the handling of the film itself. The silver halide layer is very thin compared to other manufacturers. And also the base has a very strange feeling. It is super thin and tends to stick to get electrostatically charged when used in a camera with motor winder. HP5+ on the other hand does not have the mentioned problems. But then again, it is more than 100% more expensive...

Very insightful video, thanks for sharing! Not sure whether I’ll stick to Foma as I don’t develop on my own but have it done at a lab and therefore I cannot influence the dev process. Still thinking about a film stock for a longer road trip along the coast. Options for BnW are Foma and HP5, color would most probably be Gold 200.

Jeremy, I would love to see a video about your guitar gear. Especially your pedals. :)

great video. still keen to see comparison between voigtlander 35 1.4 and the Leica glow lens

if you want more controllable contrast then rate each Fomapan film one stop lower. I like 50, 100, 200 rather than their standard 100, 200, 400. Just develop at the same recommended time

You should use Fomapan 200, not 400. Fomapan 200 is their latest gen film, its much higher quality hybrid T grain film.

If you like lot's of grain you should try Rodinal, It's also a very sharp developer will last forever! It's also VERY cheap. 1+25 for high contrast short dev time. 1+50 for more controlled contrast and longer dev time (Lower cost too). Keep in mind that pushing with Rodinal is probably not a good idea. I would rather pull to 200 ISO if anything.

If you like the look of fomapan 400 with sharp grain try getting your hands on some rodinal/R09. It really gets hard edge contrast and very sharp grain out of the fomapan films.

Great insights again, Jeremy. I totally understand your extreme criticism as a photographer, but please know that your photographs are truly inspiring to many of us. You're so right about the classic Japanese hi-contrast look. It really suits the mood I believe you're attempting to create. I'm wow'd by your 2-3 rolls PER DAY regimen! Do you use the rotary processor for convenience, mainly, given the high volume of film that you shoot? I dev at home with basic Hewes reels and a steel tank, and I've also found that slower agitation with HP5, especially when pushed to 800 or 1600, reduces the contrast and softens the grain. Can't wait to see what's next for you! Are you working towards a book or anything project-related like that?

How would Fomapan pair with 50mm Summicron v5? Or Voigt 35/1.4 Nokton Classic SC? Also you should do a review on that AXLE CR1 Rotary Processor. It looks pretty dope. I've been ordering a lot of Fomapan lately to try out. I agree with you in regards to Kentmere, not a fan 👎🏻I might go the route of bulk rolling as well. Especially after watching this video. Great video!✌🏻

I have bulk loaded Foma, I have found scratches on my film, also, the film canisters can sometimes leave debris in your camera or on the film when the light trap on the canister starts to fray. For me, I just buy Foma or any film in pre-loaded canisters.

I had a problem with the Fomapan paper. I bought a pack of 16x20 and 8x10 fibre paper. I bought these within the last 8 months. The larger paper was great with very warm results. The 8x10 is great too, however the last 6 sheets had blotches in the final darkroom print. Affordable but not when the emulsion is flawed.

Great Video :), what is the mix ratio you are using for ilfotec HC?

Hey Jeremy, do you go to any particular film labs in Singapore for canisters for your bulk rolls?

Have you tried the Rodinal + HC-110 semi stand combination with Fomapan ?

Hi how do you manage bulk loading? I tried bulk loading and I had a lot of light leaks. What cassettes do you use? How do you manage the scratches?

Hey I shot many rolls of Fomapan 100 over the last year and have the same line in my negatives.

Any kind of continuous agitation will boost contrast. Have you tried developing by hand, and using long intervals between agitation?

My favorite film is fomapan 100 size 135, 120 and 13x18 and 510Pyro as developer, I buy directly from the factory store.

Can you make a video of gear you ise for bulkloading and how you do it? My bulk loader just broke and i really would like to know what models you would recommend

Where did you buy an electrical rotor to use with your jobo ?

I’ve never had any issues with Foma films. I have, however, had problems with Kentmere 400 film cassettes having slight light leaks around the light traps. I’ve contacted Harman twice, but they didn’t respond.

I have the same black smoke lines on Fomapan 200, on Fomapan 400 I had electric discharge once (transparent lines going like veins). I use mostly Fomapan 100 and have plenty of emulsion defects on all Fomapans (100/200/400). I don't think it is a good idea to pay less for film and then have damaged photos and I don't plan to buy from Foma anymore. Have you already tried Adox films?

Using a FW690 I don't see any lines / scratches. I do see tiny purple dots in the film base and frame area (white speckles when inverted) Not sure what is causing that. Do you pre-wash or is this an issue related to developer and fixer? or just a bad batch?

Thank you for the video! Jeremy, I don't develop the film myself, so if I wanted to take it to my lab, I would get the best results by exposing the film to 800 iso in the camera and then asking for it to be developed at 800 iso (or 400? or 1600?)? best regards!

Have you tried Double-X? Don't know what the bulk price comes to per roll though.

Would you share how you developed Fomapan 400? What chemical, and timing 🙏🙏🙏

I have a question 🙋 I recently picked up a GR1s and a couple of rolls of Fomapan 100 and 400. These purchases are influenced by your videos. I’ve always been interested in the GR1 series and loved the look of Fomapan for a long time but it was your videos that finally made me to decide to pull the trigger. My question for you is since Fomapan (and I do intend on bulk rolling one day) doesn’t have any DX coding, I’m assuming you use the exposure compensation on the GR1? To -2 stops? And to get your iso 800 or 1600 look, you do that during development? Thanks for these videos! They’re absolutely great!

Have you tried stand or semi-stand development?

Great review! I'd love to give it a go but that production defect is too much.

After a lot of experimentation, I've found that if you expose Fomapan films (all 3 of them) at half the box speed, and develop about 10 percent less, they are less grainy and less contrasty with better shadow detail than normal speed and development. I like the look a lot better. However, I'm making wet darkroom prints, rather tha scanning.

I do use Fomapan 400 on a regular base due to its cost and the pleasing results I get ...but what's very frustrating is the fact that this film is very prone to scratches. Never encountered this with HP5+...

I usually push it to 1600 and no issues. Though I usually shoot with flash at night.

In Befoto in Czech Republic or in Czarne Biale in Poland it can cost even cheaper

I completely thought those blotchy lines in the emulsion were user error on my part! I went crazy thinking maybe it was being made by my bulk roller, or reused canisters, or developing spool, or squeegee. Lo and behold, I am not the only one. wow. I even went as far as replacing my bulk roller to a much more expensive model to prevent those lines, who knew they were a quality control issue.

Have you tried the agfa apx400? I started using it since the naked photographer posted the technical comparison with trix, the grain is similar but with a tonal gradient smoother than hp5! So really good separation between tones, great for scanning and even better for printing, similar price to foma but without the quality control issues. To me it’s the perfect film, just wished they made it in 120 too

How does it compare to Rollei Retro 80S? Thanks

Blotches only found on 35mm in my case. Large format no issues at all 400/200/100

The marks look identical on each image. I wonder if it's from your camera?

Would you be kind enough to share where in Germany you can order Fomapan ?

Regarding your explanation of shadow details and highlights, just meter for shadows and develop for highlights. Zone system. Regarding film sensitivity in my testing is iso 250, 510 pyro/x-tol/rodinal...

Dam 50 to 60 a month. Thats so much.

I'd disagree with you about the differences between HP5 and Tri-X. I've shot them both for many years and while they dry differently, I noticed Tri-X cups more than flatter drying HP5, the actual difference if you have well controlled devleoping is negligible when printing in a darkroom.. Perhaps they scan differently and that's where you're seeing the differences. If you watch this video, you'll see the curves are almost the same and in the print comparison you wouldn't be able to tell them apart. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mzEgzLcTDDU.htmlsi=P_awHjm6jns8rPrZ

bro said 90 rolls a month? what am I doing wrong? xD