My first time using the Dixon quick change tool post 

I'm starting to think a AXA type qctp might be the better option. They seem to be higher and might be less prone to contamination with chips. I guess I will be stuck with this thing for a while since I already ordered some more holders :)

@@Rolingmetal Yeah, the AXA is excellent but definitely go for the wedge type rather than the piston type. I've heard of folks having rigidity problems with the piston type. Mine (wedge type) is just a Chinese clone but solid steel and we'll made. Haven't used the old 4-way since the AXA arrived. Keep up the good work with the videos, I enjoy them, always learn something and have a good laugh.

That sounds like a nice project if you have a mill. But the holders are pretty cheap so I have bought a few more.

To early for me to form a, informed option. Keep in mind I was maybe pushing it a bit more than I would normally do. You are right, it´s good to know you limitation.

A wedged style tool post might be the way to go. But Iḿ hoping to make a little riser plate that includes a boss. That will solve my parting blade height problem and might make thing a bit more solid. It will sure help to keep things a bit more indexed when I rotate the tool post.

Welcome back Bobby. Looks like you're all caught up with my latest misadventure :)

@@Rolingmetal I really enjoy watching you learn and overcome problems we all have from time to time. And the fact you don't hide anything,means a lot to me. Keep up the great videos. All my best.

I'll see if I can brake it as well :) An extra shim might introduce extra shatter but I have been thinking about replacing the compound slide with something solid.

I guess that's what you get when you only have one chance to get it on camera :)

Thanks for the compliment T.W.

A wedged type tool post might be better but that's not what I have. Lets hope I can improve things a little bit. Perhaps a solid tool post to replace the compound slide.

Interesting theory about a high sitting holder tipping. And a shim would also fix my parting blade not coming high enough but I also like a solid tool post like you did :)

That's an interesting idea. But how. Welding, brazing, bolting it on...

Je hebt gelijk ik heb de beitelhouder wat harder behandeld dan wat ik normaal zou doen. Een beetje de limieten opzoeken :)

The next size up was more then twice as expensive and would overhang the compound slide. Maybe AXA is the way to go for me.

I probably made this thing look worse then I might actually be. ps. Shouldn't you be out riding on your new toy :)

modifying a original parting holder in to an upside down parting holder is now on my to do list :)

You are right. Noticed that when editing. Must not have been paying attention :) A thin sleeve will be hard to make. But I've been thinking about replacing the compound with something solid. Including a nice fitting center bolt. Another option if to bolt the too lpost to the compound slide. There is an extra hole though the tool post. (No idea why) I only would need to drill and thread a hole in the compound slide

@@Rolingmetal That extra hole in the toolpost was for a removable dowel pin. When first fitted corectly with the centering collar fitted below and the correct fitting bolt and usually a centering bush at the top; the tool post was lined up square with the lathe axis. A hole was then transfered into the compound slide and reamed a good fit. The whole idea was you pulled out the dowl to angle the tool post for general turning, but when you needed to part off, slacken the bolt, replace the dowel and the tool was then back at 90 degrees to the lathe axis. Really to fit yours correctly would be to machine an accurate recess in the top of your compound about 4 mm deep, to exactly the same diameter that is ground into the base of the toolpost. If the same diameter recess will make it too close to the edge of the compound, then make it smaller diameter and make the collar /washer stepped. You then make a close fitting collar / washer, this ensures a location fit that will not move axialy, only rotate and at the top you also need a close fitting stepped collar. This collar does 2 functions, locates the toolpost centrally to the bolt, acts as a washer for the nut and also restricts the movement of the locking cam ( as you discovered with your home made one). Finally the bolt has to be a nice close fit to the top bush and be as big a diameter as possible for that size of QCTP, probably a 1/2 " bolt, preferably of 8.8 tensile strength. These Genuine Dixon toolposts were industry standard at one time 1970's to 1980's for the low end priced lathes, the high end was the Swiss made Multifix system ( still being made today ) Sadly Dixons are no more, but plenty of Chinese knock offs, of questionable quality, often poor materials. I was a Machine Tool Fitter for 35 Years and spent many a happy hour fitting Dixons and later Multifix's to the Company's workshop lathes of all sizes, from Boley watchmakers to our largest Lathe a Dean Smith and Grace 60 inch between centers lathe. When the workshop closed I scrounged 2 Multifix toolposts and about 20 holders to use on my Myford and Hardinge HLV Toolroom Lathes now here in my workshop in Adelaide, Australia. Re watched the start of the video, noticed that you already have a recess machined in your compound slide, as I said above, make yourself a close fitting collar that fits the compound and the toolpost, this will stop any axial movement of the toolpost.

I got a second, and original Dickson parting blade holder. So I might still try that., in fact ll probably try that next weekend.

You are the second person who suggested that and it might be correct. I only check it the last bit of material was remove in the center. But it's possible is was pushing it of and not cutting it. Thanks about that bit of theory about the parting blade. It makes sense and I'll try to remember it.

Using a parting blade upside down is still on my bucket list :)

It is what it is, maybe I can improve it a little but. But in fairness I might have given it a hard time.

I believe I tried that once a long time ago and it did seem to help. Perhaps I should try to modify an original parting tool holder into an upside down parting tool.

You don't have to say his name, just spell it, here you go, Joe Pieczynski, he his a great guy, lots of very good information

Someone suggested the insert was blunt. The feeling was actually similar. But it was a brand new blue nano insert. I guess it will have to mount my micro lens for some close up pictures. I checked if that last little bit in the center was actually cut off. But it might have been a little bit above centre and pushing off the last remaining bit. You are right about that boring bar I was pushing it a bit hard intentionally :)

I still hate parting off :) If your machine isn’t really rigid pick up a hack saw. It’s actually quite quick when the job is spinning. I just start a grove so the saw goes where I want. So long as you can turn around and face the other side. I’m still enjoying watching your videos and can’t wait to see what you make next :)

Next week I'll probably try to make a space for the tool post. That's probably going to be an amateur nightmare for me :) Because how am I going to hold it and turn it parallel without hitting the jaws. Do I use round stock of use a bit of metal plate. It only needs to be 4 or 5 mm thick. Should I turn a boss that will fit inside the compound slide and how about a shim that will take up the space between the bold and the tool post to make it a bit better indexing. It should also be flat and not increase the chatter. Or maybe a new and better fitting tool post bold. Lots of question and challenges :)

Not knowing how the under side of your new tool post looks it is a bit hard for me to say what the best thing to do is. I'd say aim to have your tools to be on center height about half way up the adjustment of the the adjusting screw. That may allow you to make the plate a little thicker. Aim to cover the full contact area of the under side of the post. That will probably mean a square. Maybe you can find some nice flat plate close to the right thickness so you don't have to try and machine the flat side. If your tool post has a counterbored hole underneath definitely make a boss for it to rotate on. Don't forget a little bit of clearance so it doesn't bind :) Part of the idea with the quick change tool posts is that you don't undo the main nut for the duration of the job. This way you can take the tools out and put them back and they are supposed to go back in the same position. Very handy if you are making multiple of the same part. Not a huge advantage otherwise. Often you need a little bit of angle one way or the other so you have to undo the nut anyway. Some people buy a holder for every tool they regularly use. I haven't bothered with that yet. Anything you do should be with the aim of making it more solid. Looking closely at this last video when the parting blade jammed the tool holder seemed to move in the V slots meant to hold it in place. That surprised me. The way you grind the rake on a parting blade should also have the effect of making the cutting edge the widest part of the tool that enters the work. Obviously anything else and it's going to jam itself in there. It's also a "feel" thing where you have to keep it cutting so the chip curls out of the slot. That bit takes balls :) I sometimes I step my way down and make the slot about 1 1/2 times as wide as the blade. So you go down a couple of mm then move to the other side and go a couple more. Hope this helps David

Thanks for the tips b.t.w. there is an unused bole though the tool post. Probably for a location pin on some sort. I might use it to bolt the rises on to the tool post. But is the riser is too thin I´m considering bolting the tool post directly on to the compound slide. I might also make a new tighter fitting and maybe a bit longer tool post bolt,.

Too early for me to form a really informed opinion. But I did order some extra holders :) Maybe I should compare it to an alluminium Banggood toolpost. Could be fun I might instantly love the Dixon qctp :)

Maybe a fallen angel, if I would subscribe to the concept of heaven and hell :)

It sure could use a better center bold to keep things a bit indexed.

This... en die toolpostholder is een POS Couldn't have said it better!

Het snijplaatje mankeert niets aan maar mogelijk zat de beitel net iets te hoog. Een POS wil ik het nog niet noemen. Misschien maak ik wat schroefdraad in de bovenste slede zodat ik een extra bout door de snelwissel-houder kan monteren. Een gat hier voor is er al. Maar de bovenste slede vervangen voor iet solide is mogelijk ook een optie.

Thinking about making a little riser plate with a boss that also bolt on to the tool post.

Thank for the heads-up. But I don think Banggood will mind if I mess up one of their tool bits on camera :)

Yeah, but I have this :) lots of reputable lathe builders used to equip their lathes with Dickson qctp. So the design can't be all that bad.

Correct. Not being contemporary technology does not make a tool less functional in absolute terms. Look on the bright side. At least you're not trying to do everything with carbon steel forged tools in a rocker/lantern type toolpost.

You mean the Dickson tools post maker in still in business? The cheapest tool post I could find was from alluminium :)

@@Rolingmetal arceurotrade still do the original ones, well exact copies , not a poor redesign. FFS no one likes to pay full price of top brand stuff, but at least get something fit for use.

And I don't think my next video will be much better :) I never had any training when I was young, in fact no one ever taught me, so RU-vid is my teacher now. But it might be failing me. Maybe I should take up stamp collecting.

@@RolingmetalThere's no reason to feel humble with any exploit as long as you indicate from the beginning that you are a total noob and don't expect anyone to follow your example. The video was a fumble from the start and anyone not conversant with metal working might think that is how it is. For the record, I am a time served fitter and turner of 60 years so I'm hyper critical when I see someone working machinery in a slap dash manner. I expect you will improve if you go at it long enough.

@@gangleweed I not ashamed at being an amateur, but I'm not going to pro-actively warn people about that. They should be smarter and not expect everything technical they watch to be some sort of tutorial. What's next a disclaimer :) It's the same with safety, it is very important, but I'm not going to bother people with that all the time. Also, I kinda dislike all those perfectly executed video projects on RU-vid. I could probably make this video look better with a bit of editing and a some retakes. But that's not real. that's not what happened. Everyone makes mistakes from time to time, I might make a few more, but by showing them I might get some good comment and learn a thing or two. But I'll tell you there is a big difference between practice and theory :)

@@RolingmetalOK, I may be critical, but people do watch these vids for guidance and anything that is a bit iffy is a misguidance no matter how you see it.....have fun anyway, practice makes perfect.

Critical is not a problem. But uncalled for nasty names might be :) Depends a bit on the day of the week, but mostly that stuff is directly blacklisted. Not that you did anything wrong here :)

Be quiet Ahole!

@@jayytee8062 .......something bothering you ??

Life is probably to ridiculous to take serious :)

@@Rolingmetal Hey.... don't mistake me....just feel you need to be more happy with what your are doing with the tools you have. You are an inspiration to many hobby machinists !!! For shure !

it doesn't pay to take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive.