I love this guy's common sense approach. I'm a retired mechanical engineer and I really appreciate his skills and drive and initiative. Keep em coming. Thank you
Yeah I like to explain why I think something is better with facts and examples. In today's trades there's so many preferences and practices that people have that they swear by. The problem is they have no proof of why it's better, only the fact it's their preference. If you do something a certain way I want a solid answer before you tell me it's the best.
I'm also a Canadian boilermaker, also am sick of how heavy Fibre metal is, and also was about to buy an outlaw leather shield. You saved my wallet. Thanks brother.
When I welded we called those leather hoods "foreskin hoods". I liked the fiber metal hoods just because I found the head gear and the filter lens designs to be the simplest and easiest to change and fix. I would always keep some spare headgear parts on hand. Frustrating when your hood isn't working right.
My brother has a similar one of those cheap hoods (I might have one somewhere.) I always sorta thought of it as being cheap new plastic for someone who didn't weld enough to put money into it, but honestly, I don't see anything wrong with them. The hood I use is an old Fibre-Metal flip front, old enough to still have the potmetal front. I've run dual shielded flux core myself, and I've always liked the peace of mind of having a metal lens holder. The plates go in from the side, but I always take the spring out and load them in stacking against the bottom instead of trying to force them one behind the other, never get any real scratches.
You make some great videos too I watch every one you upload! Yeah I still use a tiger hood quite a bit but I love those cheap plastic ones because most of the time I'm welding in super tight spots.
Fibre metal FUTURA is the lightest hood I've ever used.BY FAR! I,too fell victim to the outlaw hood craze.not for shipyard,outside work.lets in lots of light through the bottom. And yer right.Zero wieght saving.
Local 2520 piledriver. I agree with you man. Cheap and practical in the feild! Especially when you work in mud and dirt and your hood gets dirty. Im not cashing out on outlaw now because i was going to.
Union Boilermaker from the states here. I use a Hunstman slider. You have to get an original paper/cardboard one though for the benefit of it being lighter. They make a plastic model that looks like the cardboard one, but its a little bit bigger and obvioulsy heavier. I have an old cardboard one. Its light as a feather. Great for tube welding and boiler work as far as soft band goes. Also, with any hood, hard hat hood or soft band, try to avoid flipping the hood down by shaking your neck to make it fall. That is actually what causes more damage and injuries over time to a welders neck. It takes some time to get used to reaching up and pulling it down, but it pays dividends to do it thay way instead of the neck shake.
@JTwelderjake I know. Certain tool suppliers still have them in stock on jobsites here in the states. When I see they have one, I jump on it. I have a small paper Hunstman monopoly going. Lol
I too have a huntsman slider with the cardboard material.. it's my favorite soft band hood I own. I love it for those tight spots when your crammed up every which way. So light.Try not to get them wet though. Not my every day hood, but its always always in my gang box.
Great video dude. I’m in local 128 as well, the princess auto hood is the best field hood hands-down. I’ve chopped it and added leather to it and made it even lighter
I feel like that outlaw leather hood is more for field welding with SMAW. Pipeliners and ironworkers would probably benefit from that way more. You are totally right about that outlaw hood it is not for fcaw in a shop
there is next to zero benefit to the outlaw hoods, i own two. they're not worth it what so ever. just as heavy, leather gets in the way, and expensive.
Used a speedglas and airflow unit for a long time. Heavy and a lot to move around in all day. Caused me short term neck issues. Swapped to a cheapie like yours and Jackson head gear with a respirator - perfect, no more neck problems.
The princess auto is almost identical to the Hobart flip front helmet. The Hobart might be a little shorter. They run about $20 US now. The mini pipeliner helmet are king of the hill.
I use a 35$ Jackson helmet everyday/all day. Going on 5 years now. My employer offers them to us from NAPA at that price point. I added a leather bib that I cut out of an old couch we were throwing out. I find it funny when guys buy expensive auto darkening lids. They never last. Good video. 👍🏽
Thanks man! Yeah I'll use a auto tint at home but I'm not about to take a $450 shield to a acid plant shutdown. Practical and cheap preforms better in the field over time every time!
Depends on the job entirely. If you are in a crappy environment dont bring a nice hood. Also if you dont take care of a $200 or 300 dollar you are missing the point. It is too have a nicer hood with better or DIFFERENT function. People look too deep into this. I love my lincoln viking hemet and I beat the crap out of it. Zero issues for a couple year now. But im not in a factory or shipyard. Your little hood cant beat the 5”x8” viewing hole. It makes fabricating a lot nicer. My point is one hood does not fit every purpose.
It took me a long time to figure out what I liked in a welding helmet. My personal preference is an unmodified pipeliner helmet. The flipfront mod adds a ton of weight.
The Fibre Metal Futura is a super light low profile flip front hood. They stopped making the Silver one which I like because it is more heat reflective. As far I as know they still make the black one. The only mod I did was trim the bottom and add a trimmed Tillman leather bib.
You really got me into becoming a boilermaker, was chasing becoming a pipeliner like every other welder in the us but quickly realized there are a ton of other great welding paths that can make just as much money and be just as rewarding
Yeah man there's so many other great welding jobs out there. Pipeline is very quickly becoming mechanized so you won't even be burning rod you'll be operating a mig welding robot eventually. So definitely look into other paths I'f you don't want to just watch a robot for a living.
Парни, я работаю сварщиком в России, работаю с трубами, у меня имеется такая же маска только в белом цвете, но к сожалению при падении раскололась крепление маски на голову, и блин в России его не купить, не подскажите как можно заказать крепление на голову
Pipeliners cloud carbon hoods are stupid light. Even with an auto lense, better headgear, and a flip front they're lighter than a standard fibremetal without the flip front.
On that outlaw hood You can take that leather off and get a short piece and velcro that shit on the inside I made mine I cut it copper riveted the top velcro the bottom I have different lengths for the Bib. Just pull the short bib off stick a long bib on my hood is light I tig alot no grinding so my hood works .I have several different hoods for different applications if I was dual shield Flux core welding the full hood like you have is the way to go.
You want a proto babyshell screen they are made in Holland by North safety or honeywell. Lightest screen you will use even lighter if you replace the rear of the harness with elastic. If I was mig welding I would stick a bit of leather on it with silver tape or rivets so my neck dident burn bar a monkey screen ( leather and lens) its the lightest out there.
I think it’s the quality of the leather is the issue, I have a custom hood that has a leather drape and I’ve used it for over a year and haven’t had to do anything to it. Also I’m doing duel shield. Flexible leather is so much better. It’s the exact type of leather you showed, just not as fancy but we’re welders lol gimmicks don’t get the job done.
Couple guys at my shop have some of those hoods you like so much theyre pretty good and honestly so light i have a classic hood with leather but i like the 12 dollar hood a little more
I never had a problem with my outlaw leather hood. Mine has a tiger hood that was chopped with leather way lighter then the pipeliner version. I don't live in a very cold climate so the leather freezing was never a problem.
those hiderok style lids are great. cheap and tough like you said. Grind that retainer clip down a bit and you can fit a nice arc singles HD lense in it and use it for everything. My go to hoods are the straight up pipeliner ( holds up/stops sparks when im pipelining ), the hiderok style like yours or the jackson flip up fixed shade.. the weldtube flip up lense are solid, but the clips suck so usually needs to be glued on the hood. but WAY better than the sellstrom flip front.
We have to use airflows in the UK or we won’t get any NHS help if needed! Plus most are now reactor lights which I don’t mind but cost a lot more than the dark shades ( filters )
I also used that cheep helmet for year. They work great. Only thing it does fit my Lincoln auto so switched back to the new Fibre-metal so I can open up the lens slot so I can put the thicker Lincoln adjustable lens.
Laughing way too hard at this! I'm portuguese mate, welding for 2 years and let me tell you, I already have that mentality! I wont even oil my boots, imagine a leather on a mask that's supposed to be practical and bring as little issues as possible! AHAHAH
I know this is an older video but Obviously you need a pipeliners cloud carbon fiber hood and id suggest a truearc 2x4 auto vpro or gold lens. Best setup ive had in my career. And definitely non flip front.
Hell no! I’m not spending $250 on just the shell of a hood, carbon also isn’t flexible like the black plastic hoods. All the sites I work on require a face shield when grinding so a flip is a must and I also prefer it. I run these plastic hoods for $20 and tefuawe provides me with some amazing auto lenses for free.
There’s no need for a flip up!!! Just switch to a damn grinding shield. It doesn’t take much time and you won’t have to keep changing out your clear backing lens.
I have 2 pipeliners. One with a flip and one that does not, both are cut way the fuck down top and bottom to the point where it just barley clears my chin. Anyways, even with the amount I cut my flipper down it’s still pretty heavy compared to the one that doesn’t.
Try a huntsman with the slide lense, best hood I’ve ever had, lighter than a feather and still has the “grind mode” comfier than anything else, only thing is rub it with sno seal and rivet some leather from an old pair of gloves to the bottom and your golden, million dollar hood that cost me $70 (boilermaker L169)
I'm a retired Boilermaker from Ohio. I've used the Huntsman 490p for about 35 years. The slide is great. I used to get them for 25-30 bucks, and now they are over 100. That being said, the last one I bought was around 2006. That's because my employer bought it. The one I normally use is about 25 years old. They don't like water, but I've used it in the rain a lot. They are light. I would buy one today if I needed one.
You can just soak that leather and hang it and it will straighten out and to condition cheap lotion works fine its skin it works the same but I do get what your saying. Carbon fiber sugar scoop is my favorite with basic auto darkening.
Yes you are right. You just soak the leather in water. I kinda pulled it a little while it was wet and it went right back to the original shape. Good advice here.
Ok thank you. Bc piledriver here and you saved me about $250. I rock my fiber metal and princess auto ones and they always last and last. Any ideas on better hardwear for them though? The plastic on fiber metal always breaks
Glad I could help! I just use the fibre metal or miller hardware and haven’t had a problem but I’ve seen that some companies sell cnc aluminum replacement hardware kits for the fibre metals.
Actually I found out its a common problem with them. It doesn't matter what process you use. They have a program right now where you can ship your hood back to them and get it refurbished for free, just pay the shipping. The problem is for me the shipping cost $100 because I'm in Canada. I'll stick to a hood that doesn't require any maintenance and can be used for any process. If they just used the leather I showed in the video you would never have a issue, the problem is that leather doesn't look as good. They're built more for show than anything.
So many guys in trades wouldn’t wear that solely because it’s so cheap. Doesn’t matter how great it is. It’s not expensive/overpriced so it won’t pass in the workplace fashion show.
I use a Hobart version of the power fist hood in a fabrication shop and it is the best hood I've used ..... I've used everything from the 2x4 esab firepower welding hood to the fiber metal tiger and pipeliners hoods .... Even pancake hoods .... But I always find myself using the 16$ el cheapo welding hood
Hey thanks man? How does she fit with a respirator? Im moving from a shop welding position to field welding and im trying to get all my gear sorted before I start?
That could work but the leather has tightened up so it's not as long as it originally was so it's doesn't protect your neck even if it was still straight. I have no interest in leather shields anymore because the plastic ones do the exact same thing and require absolutely no special treatment.
Can’t stand welding with a fixed shield unless it’s outside and pretty bright. Also can’t stomach paying outrageous prices for some of the fancy auto dark hoods with expensive proprietary clear lenses. So my happy medium is a pipeliner or pipeliner type hood (the one in the video would be just fine) with an arc one singles or techniweld seer 2x4 auto lens. You won’t cry when it gets banged around and the clears are cheap and plentiful
Yeah man exactly, I prefer 2x4 autos too. I'm super used to running a fixed shade as well in any conditions but the 2x4 auto tints are definitely a better option.
I have a save phace I like it it’s light enough to for me its very comfortable but like they really don’t make any more products I’ve been looking for a welding shield the blocks out light for I can weld outside but not be as heavy or be a flip up. But same problem with mine the lenses and upper part of my shield gets really hot. Edit: as well with being a click dial shield I prefer those more for I can set up my darkening I regularly run shade 10 or 11.
JTwelder with the last hood with the fiber metal attachment on it, how well does a respirator fit under it? I now use the Hobart cheapo welding helmet. It's the same build as your but a lil smaller on the bottom piece which sucks if you're doing overhead. I work out in the ship yard so i need something small but they get onto me because I don't use the hardhat attachment because I can't wear a respirator with the attachment.
Hey love the channel, I’m a 1st year psw apprentice in the 128 as well. Where did you find the flip front hood that uses fibre metal attachment holes? I’ve got a princess auto hood with miller headgear like yours too but I want to get a hood setup for the fibre metal hard hat adapter too.
@@JTwelder. Oh ok, I’ll pick up a tigerhood to use with my hard hat for now. Appreciate the reply and if I find anywhere to get those hoods with fibre metals holes I’ll let you know too.
For the princess auto hood you said use the the fiber metal hard hat adapter. Do you need to make any adjustments to the hood for the fiber metal adapter?
I like the cheap ass hoods you have in this video too, but they do not seem to fit auto darkening lenses in them ( at least with a front and back cover lens ). How do you fit them in there? I have added sellstrom lens holders to mine
Don’t weld with a hard hat, use the outlaw and hate the new headgear. It would be best if they had the fibre metal band, as far as conditioner I only use coconut oil it keeps it soft. Salt makes that cheap leather stiff. Even pumpkin seed oil when we cook with it. Cheap and it’s food. 😂
I personally will never own a pancake hood. They are way to bulky and I weld in a lot of tight spots. They're probably great for guys that weld pipe out in the sun but that's not anything like the environment I work in.
You’re a boilermaker!? I’ve been trying to get information on that job field for a minute, have yet to find any people or videos that go in debt with that! Would love to pick ur brain, I’m a welder in the navy, tig and stick.
Yeah I'm in the boilermakers union. Just look up your nearest international brotherhood of boilermakers union hall and check out their website or call for info.
Yeah a lot of people prefer them. I find they're for show more than anything else and gave me no advantage other than fitting in tight spots over a regular pipeliner. If you just stick weld pipe in Texas they're probably ok but when it comes to other processes and scenarios they don't hold up. Having to maintain your welding hood with leather conditioner is also just plain stupid. From a utilitarian stand point they're useless.
Yeah I understand man I do mention it in quiet a few videos but any of my content with welding hoods and outlaw leather tends to get a good amount of views so expect them to come up a more video's. I give some pretty solid reason of why I don't like them. I get a ton of comments from people that say they love their outlaw but nobody gives me a reason why they like it. So If you own one what do you like about it?
I love my outlaw leather. You gotta 1000% treat the leather. You dont understand how to treat leather and thats why your problem. 1st step is to wet your leather and stretch it. It will go back to its original shape. You have to keep leather hydrated. Water will do the trick. I've had mine and used it exclusively for about 3 years. Idk what youre expecting.
@JTwelder I heard what you said. I'm saying you simply put it in water. Youre talking about putting products on it. Im talking about putting it in water😂
I bought a Huntsman [now part of Jackson] fiber type hood, thinking it would be lighter, and look Cool old school...the one with the flip front....well, it is heavier and the flip front does not flip down completely without pushing by hand,,,,,nothing as nice as the Fibermetal Tigerhood.... and the head gear is terrible, and always catches on my big old ears.......ouch..... I am a firm believer in Fibermetal......I actually took a 180 dollar auto dark hood from another company, can't remember the name, but will try and find and edit this post and pulled the cartridge out....[it is a 4x5 vertical,] turned it sideways and installed in a Fibermetal Tigerhood 4x5.....great side vision.....and the only wide auto dark 4x5 I have seen....their head gear was trash, hood after one hour would never stay up.... the reason I bought in the first place was the reallygreat color and clarity of the lens and brightness when not dark.... .I only use where I need that peripheral vision.....and do not have to be flipping up to see due to the area being dark.... I hope this helps....cheers, Paul
The Huntsman is a hood I've always wanted but there hard to get in Canada and there a bit expensive. Yeah I've saw the headgear is pretty bad in them also.
If they just used the cheaper more flexible leather it wouldn't be a problem. They're definitely more for style apposed to hard work. Like I said my go to shield cost $15 and doesn't require any maintenance it's just a straight money maker.
How close are you to your welds bro jesus those helmets are used by pipe liners that’s why it’s called a pipe liner hood the sugar scoop I think your the only one with this problem. Hey let me set my hood on the hot leather and hope it stays perfect should have set it upside down! It’s a different style hood then the fiber metal so therefore there are different procedures to keep it I’ve never maintained mine other than the clear lenses sorry YOU fucked yours up
You're welding in sub freezing Temps and your hood gets to hot to touch... so you switched to the cheapo an it hasn't warped or melted or stress cracked, freezer to oven to freezer dropping it 100ft Bending an crushing... really? I'm thinking you are an exaggeration super marvel or a liar.
They seem awesome! Im looking to get one for all my side jobs I do at home. Why I will never get one for my day job as a boilermaker is because of how often I have to change my clear lenses. I was just on a 40 shift shutdown patching the inside of a small pressure vessel. All stainless and inconel Tig and with all the dust I was changing my clears (2x4) once every 2 days which the company supplies. If I had a speed glass I would have to order 20 sets of exterior and interior lenses which local suppliers can barely even keep in stock so overall it would cost me $450 out of my pocket to do that shut down with a speed glass. Obviously I'm not willing to pay that for clear lenses on every shutdown I go on.
@@JTwelder. ya like pipeline guys use those hoods. I don’t know. I Have a mobile welding company and do mostly welding on commercial fishing boats and at marinas. I’d never use a fixed shade lens like that. And the leather ones are just silly. Like it ain’t the 70s. Also all your lenses are all shitted up. Hard to weld what you can’t see good. To each their own but all those hoods seem like dinosaur shit🤷♀️